gazmosis[501st] Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 Ok, we all know the things we like and dislike about the new Anovos helmets. I know they were going for replicating a specific helmet they saw in the archives but I still like my ears to have as little gap as possible. This is going to be a challenge because of how much they already removed. I am also particular about hand painted details so I need to do some transfer stripping. This helmet is paper thin. The ears are, too! Clearly NOT the same thickness of plastic used on the body armor. First the disassembly: The first thing I noticed was that the ear screws were the kind we are all looking to use on the thermal detonators. They are flat bottom, pan head slotted screws. Because Anovos provided wedge head phillips screw for the TD, I will replace those with the helmet screws and replace the helmet screws with the correct angled screws. After removing the hovis, I am going to swap out the fine mesh screen with the better stuff on the right. Nice hovi tips, though. Well done. No markings on the side, but well done. Anyway, I am also going to swap out the brow trim. Their brow trim was too loose and cut to mimic that trooper whos brow trim ended within the trapezoid. I like going to the ends. Just my preference. I will use the UK -US52 trim seen on the right. It is almost identical but just a tad less shiny and tighter fitting to grab the brow. With the helmet apart, I can start stripping the transfers. I only found two things that took them off: alcohol and goof off. The goof off required a little elbow grease, but worked much quicker. With the helmet clean, I can start trimming. First I opened up the eyes a bit. Then started work on cleaning up the tooth openings and making the recessed ones on the right side (as you are looking at the face) a little larger. While I had the face exposed, it was a good time to polish it. Note the reflections of the twin bulb worklight. and after polishing: At this time, I also constructed the lens mounts from the hockey helmet screws. After building a stack of scrap ABS around each and some trimming I glued them in place. I used the provided lens material to make individual lenses. I removed the lenses and set them aside. I needed to lower the main cap on the face slightly so the ear position would move down as well. I cut my new piece of brow trim and tried several positions on the helmet before settling on one I was happy with. I am happy with this placement. I removed the temporary screws and riveted down the cap at the ears and around the cheek. I got to work on the delicate job of re-trimming the ears out. The round portion was already thin so I had to really watch how much I took out. I was not entirely happy with the right ear, but it was a lot better than it was. The left one came out a bit better. Painting is next!!! 10 Quote
Dark PWF[Staff] Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 Looking good Steve! Always a joy to witness one of the masters at work! 1 Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Posted February 4, 2016 Stop...you're embarrassing me 1 Quote
dejango[TK] Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 What kind of polish did you use for this? Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Posted February 4, 2016 I use Meguilars automotive rubbing compound. Novus polish also works very well 1 Quote
spyder918 Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 I like how you made the lens 'brackets'..awesome! 3 Quote
spyder918 Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 I use Meguilars automotive rubbing compound. Novus polish also works very well Did you use a buffer or you just polished it by hand? Looks amazing! Quote
Bulldog44[TK] Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 Taking the bull by the horns! Love how you got to work on this so fast and with excellent results. The reflective quality after polishing looks amazing. Thanks for showing how to make the helmet look even better with those mods. Not sure I will be as brave when I get my helmet in hand. Quote
Revyl Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 Gotta watch this thread! Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Posted February 4, 2016 Thanks, guys! The polishing was just good strong elbow grease. I don't think I would have the confidence to use a rotary buffer of any kind. The plastic on this helmet is very thin and too much power can build heat that might warp or even melt the plastic. Quote
spyder918 Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 Ah..makes sense. Thanks for the response and helmet looks awesome! Quote
FirstCoastFett[501st] Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 looking good, Steve! Quote
DrDataCenter Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 (edited) I too, noticed the helmet seemed just paper thin. Is there a good way to thicken it, so it's a bit more damage resistant? I was thinking of spraying the inside with a flexible rubber coating (like FlexiDip), or something similar, and then painting it black...dumb idea? This is my first TK, and I'm trying to mod it enough to withstand long walks in the park, and moonlight soirees on the beach. Edited February 4, 2016 by DrDataCenter Quote
ABS80 Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 (edited) Great job looks much much better! I see that they heavily modified the frown shape extremities to simplify removal of face plate off molds, that area should be square no at angle blending into side tubes. ------------------------ Edited January 10, 2022 by gmrhodes13 link not working removed 1 Quote
xanthis02 Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 Steve is the head of the pan head screw used on the ears 6mm Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Posted February 4, 2016 The head of the pan head screw is JUST SHY of 6mm. The screws on this screen used Thermal Detonator look to be a very comparable size. Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 4, 2016 Author Report Posted February 4, 2016 As for strengthening the overall helmet itself, I have relied on Plasti-dip with cheesecloth embedded into it then another layer on top. Because this helmet is so thin, I might go with three layers just to give it more strength. Here is an example what two coats looks like. 4 Quote
Twnbrother Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 following closely.... good work Quote
shaunpug Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 Could you clarify how you widened the "teeth openings"? I've been hearing from several that I should do this, but I'm a bit hesitant to start. Also, where do you find the correct angled screws and the hockey helmet screws if you don't have a hockey helmet? Quote
Houndog5 Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 Very impressive... Love the lens mounts. Will you keep the hard-hat style rig inside or go with padding? Quote
xanthis02 Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 Helmet screws are slotted flat head machine screws #4-40X 1" 1 Quote
BILLSID29 Posted February 5, 2016 Report Posted February 5, 2016 Looks great Steve! More info on how you did the teeth please! Quote
gazmosis[501st] Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Posted February 5, 2016 The screws for the lens mounts I was able to get at a hockey shop. They have bunches of them in their repair shops. If they don't, they can order them. As for the teeth,mi just opened up the bottom portion of the tooth openings. The teeth are still recessed just opened up a bit farther on the bottom. 1 Quote
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