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Posted
So, I recently decided to pull the trigger and buy an ANH TK stunt!
I haven't acquired everything yet , will add as I go.
I bought the kit from trooper gear, hopefully it will get here soon.
Under suit: yet to buy
Neck seal, holster, canvas belt: ordered from mammasith (redback garrison)
Helmet liner: motorbike liner from Amazon
Gloves: nomex from eBay
Boots: imperial boots, ordered
 
I went to Bunnings and lincraft yesterday and bought a few essentials.
Aluminium: 20mm x 1.6mm
Foam puzzle mats
25mm webbing, 50mm webbing
50mm black elastic, 25mm white elastic 
Clamps x8
50mm black Velcro (10m cos Bunnings sucks)
Painters tape.
 
I was going to buy a hole punch at Bunnings but had a mini heart attack when I saw how many different sizes there were, decided not to buy any because I haven't acquired any snaps yet. Does anyone know what size snaps I should buy?
 
I also haven't bought any fans or mic set ups yet. Could anyone suggest any good ones?
 

I plan on starting with my snap plates soon so they are ready for when the brown box gets here, and I plan on copying Bids (Redback Garrison) build for that as they look super secure. 

 

If you guys had any idea where to source any of these items, that would be greatly appreciated as this is my first build of anything, ever! I would prefer to keep it Australian local if at all possible, however other sources more than welcome!!!!

  • 1 month later...
Posted
New things I've acquired:
My undersuit, long sleeve shirt and pants
My boots arrived
Magnets
Aker amp
 
I just punched holes in my plates, which are just nylon webbing on top of nylon webbing, after my disaster with Velcro. And the holes for my elastic/nylon connection.
 
20160213_155018_zpscudl3fak.jpg
 
On the weekend, I made it over to Cyclops' house and we did some sanding on my shins. He only had to use the Dremel twice to make up for my average job on the snips. 
 

 
I've completed the snap plates I'll use for my main armour, there is 20 sets, so hopefully that's enough. I still need to start on snap plates for my extremities.
image_zpszvesirtl.jpeg
I used a piece of cardboard as the template for the elastic connections.
image_zpsydgnpiyq.jpeg
I went to Sly's on the weekend, and we did work on the thigh's:
received_972067276207624_zps1p2vq2gq.jpe
Sly and Cyclops cut and sanded the front, and marked up the back. I took them home and cut and sanded the rest:
image_zpsweylofnb.jpeg
image_zpspimkqdnd.jpeg
I think I'll have to take 1/2" to 1" off the top to get a decent range of motion in them. Opinions? I'll hold off on gluing them together until I gather more intel.
 
Some trimming of the forearms has been completed:
image_zpsfem5hezb.jpeg
image_zpstol9z6yn.jpeg
 
I've lined up the forearms to how I think they are meant to go, can anyone confirm that the pieces on the left are left arm, and the pieces on the right are right ?
image_zpsjezcq4tj.jpeg
 
I've moved on to the thermal detonator, and cut the clips to 10", cut the end caps to 20mm, and centred the plate
image_zpsbbzegdue.jpeg
I haven't trimmed the plate, and it's 128mm x90mm, as opposed to UKSWRATH's suggestion of 115mmx85mm, does anyone see a problem with this?
It has 14.5mm between the plate and the caps, and the clips are only 20mm anyway?
 
Next on my list is to reinforce where the hovi mic tips are going to be placed on the helmet, I plan to achieve this with the help of araldite and fiberglass cloth. Sly suggested cheese cloth but I figured fiberglass would accomplish the same goal?
image_zpsk2gnsjsm.jpeg
 
Lastly, I have cut some ABS for the cover strips and I have made several hooks for my shoulder bells to keep the elastic flush and I'm in the process of making my Hans hooks!
That's all from me for now :) Look forward to any input.
Posted

New things I've acquired:

My undersuit, long sleeve shirt and pants

My boots arrived

Magnets

Aker amp

 

I just punched holes in my plates, which are just nylon webbing on top of nylon webbing, after my disaster with Velcro. And the holes for my elastic/nylon connection.

 

20160213_155018_zpscudl3fak.jpg

 

On the weekend, I made it over to Cyclops' house and we did some sanding on my shins. He only had to use the Dremel twice to make up for my average job on the snips.

 

 

 

 

I've completed the snap plates I'll use for my main armour, there is 20 sets, so hopefully that's enough. I still need to start on snap plates for my extremities.

image_zpszvesirtl.jpeg

I used a piece of cardboard as the template for the elastic connections.

image_zpsydgnpiyq.jpeg

I went to Sly's on the weekend, and we did work on the thigh's:

received_972067276207624_zps1p2vq2gq.jpe

Sly and Cyclops cut and sanded the front, and marked up the back. I took them home and cut and sanded the rest:

image_zpsweylofnb.jpeg

image_zpspimkqdnd.jpeg

I think I'll have to take 1/2" to 1" off the top to get a decent range of motion in them. Opinions? I'll hold off on gluing them together until I gather more intel.

 

Some trimming of the forearms has been completed:

image_zpsfem5hezb.jpeg

image_zpstol9z6yn.jpeg

 

I've lined up the forearms to how I think they are meant to go, can anyone confirm that the pieces on the left are left arm, and the pieces on the right are right ?

image_zpsjezcq4tj.jpeg

 

I've moved on to the thermal detonator, and cut the clips to 10", cut the end caps to 20mm, and centred the plate

image_zpsbbzegdue.jpeg

I haven't trimmed the plate, and it's 128mm x90mm, as opposed to UKSWRATH's suggestion of 115mmx85mm, does anyone see a problem with this?

It has 14.5mm between the plate and the caps, and the clips are only 20mm anyway?

 

Next on my list is to reinforce where the hovi mic tips are going to be placed on the helmet, I plan to achieve this with the help of araldite and fiberglass cloth. Sly suggested cheese cloth but I figured fiberglass would accomplish the same goal?

image_zpsk2gnsjsm.jpeg

 

Lastly, I have cut some ABS for the cover strips and I have made several hooks for my shoulder bells to keep the elastic flush and I'm in the process of making my Hans hooks!

That's all from me for now :) Look forward to any input.

Ah hah ha looks like Cyclops and I were checking out your butt.

 

Keep up the good work mate, always here to help.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

I was going to make a joke about it but I figured it was best not too!!  :laugh1:  :laugh1:

Thanks! I hope you aren't sick of my questions by the time I am finished  :)

Posted (edited)

Quick question guys, im sizing up my forearms, and on my right arm, the wrist has about 1 1/2 inches gap. Should it be less?

 

20160306_202755-1_zps2ulqvypz.jpg
 

Also, something I noticed, with my kit the right outer forearm has flat edges running lengthways on both sides. Im thinking this will alter how i cut them.<br>
My plan is to cut the outer so the flat edge is 8mm (for the 15mm cover strip) and then cut the inner to fit that? Sound good or does anyone have a better suggestion ? :)

Edited by Haak
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
After 3 weeks of nothing but uni work, I took an hour or so off and attacked the helmet a little bit. I squared off the teeth, drilled the holes for the mic tips, and attached some decals. One problem I have run into: 

 

The drill holes I made according to the pre made dents in the helmet don't line up properly. I combed FISD and found that it is recommended you attach the face plate and back first, then glue the cap on. Unfortunately I've already glued it together with xtac, so looks like I may need to do some trimming and drill some new holes.

 

20160329_203655_zpsjjwfjrbk.jpg

 

20160329_203721_zpsvcs6b8mt.jpg

 

20160329_203736_zpsx9assnyj.jpg

 

As you can see, currently the screws are making the face plate sit too high in the helmet, the face plate is catching with the lid on the right, and the ear cover on the left is not far forward enough.

I'm hoping that pulling the face plate forward, and pushing the lower part back into the helmet will fix this with a few new holes. Any suggestions?

 

Also, out of curiosity, does anyone know what the deal with this is?

 

20160329_204559_zpswwsi7ou5.jpg

 

20160329_204641_zpsn9zzxp05.jpg

 

It will only let me screw on so far by hand which is fine atm for fitting, but will I need to use pliers to twist through the rubbery part?

 

Thanks in advance. :)



Also, do I need to spray or sand the sections of the helmet I'm going to pain before I put the paint on?

Posted

I'll throw out a suggestion ... Try to get face plate and the rest of the bucket playing nice together before any drilling or sanding. I'd use magnets and tape to see if you could get things to line up better without considering the holes you've already drilled. Once you get things looking right, see where your holes and ears line up. you might not be in as bad of shape as you think. Thankfully, the holes are hidden by the ears.

 

Use the reference pics and/or a good Centurion application for bucket guidance. Measure and reference before sanding or drilling! ;)

  • Like 1
Posted

I'll throw out a suggestion ... Try to get face plate and the rest of the bucket playing nice together before any drilling or sanding. I'd use magnets and tape to see if you could get things to line up better without considering the holes you've already drilled. Once you get things looking right, see where your holes and ears line up. you might not be in as bad of shape as you think. Thankfully, the holes are hidden by the ears.

 

Use the reference pics and/or a good Centurion application for bucket guidance. Measure and reference before sanding or drilling! ;)

Thanks Brick, will do :)

Posted
Another update, I glued the TD together a week ago, 

 

20160330_200427_zps9hfbgsum.jpg

 

I know the picture is crappy, but I've marked 10mm from the drop off on the front of the shins, unfortunately there isn't a crisp 90 degree angle on he shins like the thighs, so I had to guestimate, gonna cut a little further away, and re measure later. Does anyone have better suggestions?

 

20160330_200411_zpspkuum3hf.jpg

 

Taped up biceps.

 

20160330_200616_001_zpsnybscy44.jpg

20160330_200314_zpsee0hifap.jpg

 

Do the biceps need to have an even amount cut off to keep them 'squarish' or is an angled cut allowed? Would like to know before I measure up cut lines :)

Posted

Wow, that looks like a lot to take off the biceps! Not familiar with how your armour comes out of the box, but is your bicep tight against your arm when you have it taped like that? Your bicep will be attached to your shoulder bell to keep it in place, so it should have some room in there and doesn't need to really hug your arm. In any case, I would trim off the same amount from each side. Keep in mind that your forearm cover strip should like up with your bicep cover strip (ideally), so maybe tape those up and check to see how that looks.

 

Oh and regarding your thighs above, wait till you put your shins together. You should have some motion but not full motion at the hips so, wait before trimming.

Posted (edited)

Wow, that looks like a lot to take off the biceps! Not familiar with how your armour comes out of the box, but is your bicep tight against your arm when you have it taped like that? Your bicep will be attached to your shoulder bell to keep it in place, so it should have some room in there and doesn't need to really hug your arm. In any case, I would trim off the same amount from each side. Keep in mind that your forearm cover strip should like up with your bicep cover strip (ideally), so maybe tape those up and check to see how that looks.

 

Oh and regarding your thighs above, wait till you put your shins together. You should have some motion but not full motion at the hips so, wait before trimming.

 

I bought AM from trooper gear and I have been told they are for larger troopers.

Thanks Lucnak, I thought they needed to be a snug fit but I can definitely cut less off! It's fits quite snug when I flex atm. I had never even thought about them lining up! So thanks for that :)

I have put off trimming them until I've finished with the shins and ab plate, and I'll see how it feels then :)

Edited by Haak
Posted
Did some quick painting on the face plate, going to need another coat of black, and a few more grey coats (I've found out I hate grey paint, keeps going watery :/ )

Needs some refining, and possibly toothpick removal for some small areas, I have a tiny, fine tipped brush for the fine details.

 

image.jpg1_zpsuujud7xb.jpg

 

image.jpg1_zpskeojxpaa.jpg

Posted (edited)

Moving on :) do I need to cut anything off of the sides to make it fit better? How much room should I have? :)

20160405_175116-1_zpsya7aabyt.jpg
 
20160405_175111_zpsbta7csiz.jpg
 
 
Also, is the kidney up the right way?
20160405_175243_zpspyb1ljwb.jpg
 
I apologise for the continual update bomb tonight. Do you think I'm going to need to do any work on the shoulder bells? I think I might need to cut maybe 10-20mm so I don't have it sit so high on the shoulder?
14598529403701667338326_zpsfv6wybyp.jpg
Thanks guys!
Edited by Haak
Posted

Hey mate, in regards to the shoulder bells, I would wait until you have the chest armour ready to go before cutting anything off them. The less black showing the better.

Also, it looks like you might be able to drop that bicep a bit closer to your elbow.

Good luck!

Posted

Hey mate, in regards to the shoulder bells, I would wait until you have the chest armour ready to go before cutting anything off them. The less black showing the better.

Also, it looks like you might be able to drop that bicep a bit closer to your elbow.

Good luck!

Thanks Scotty, will do :)
Posted

Regarding your kidney plate, it should be the flat side down and the curved side up. The idea is that the curvature should follow the line of your ab plate.

Posted

Regarding your kidney plate, it should be the flat side down and the curved side up. The idea is that the curvature should follow the line of your ab plate.

Thanks Lucnak!

Posted (edited)
Did some measuring on the ab/kidney plate :)

Fits nice and tight on the sides.

 

20160408_182725_zpsqiuj15lu.jpg

 

Only problem is my an impolite person. Literally! Shows what too many squats at the gym does. 

 

20160408_182740_zps2rcxg4b3.jpg

 

To remedy this, instead of doing a straight cut, im going to cut 5mm less off of the bottom edge of the ad/kidney, than the top. This will ensure a straight line on wearing, and also give me an extra 10mm at the bottom which will allow the kidney and butt plate to fit together properly :) 

Sound like a good plan guys???



How does the alignment of the helmet look now?

 

1460106918465891764733_zpswz0kzvof.jpg

Edited by Haak
Posted

You shouldn't need to cut anything off the kidney off the top and bottom edges. Keep a small return edge where the pieces will meet (back to kidney, kidney to butt). If you assemble everything and it seems too long, then maybe consider it, but that should only be the case for very short troopers!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Sorry for the confusion Lucnak, this is what I meant.

 

Kidney_zpsft8nnzr1.jpg

 

Gives me more room at the bottom of the armour :)

Posted

Personally, I would suggest connecting the kidney and the posterior plates, and THEN recheck if your idea for the sloped cut on the kidney is still needed.

Posted

Personally, I would suggest connecting the kidney and the posterior plates, and THEN recheck if your idea for the sloped cut on the kidney is still needed.

 

Will do!

Posted

I agree with Sentry. Fit the butt plate and see how it all sits together and in relation to each other first. Great going so far. Don't feel the need to stop asking questions, its in all our interests that every trooper has great looking armour!

 

Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey guys! What does everyone usually do about the return edges on the torso armour pieces. Most of the threads I've seen appear to leave the return edge on the kidney alone, and the edge on the posterior alone, but minimise the return edge on the back plate, ab, and rest of the posterior. Thoughts?

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