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Posted

IMG_0853_zpskcbekvxa.jpg

 

This is more recent. After some fitting adjustments and button panels.

  • Like 1
Posted

So I only want to do this once lol , what would be my left and right shin combo? Thanks

38a37cf2-f986-4d2d-8eec-5297ed4f2fee_zps

 

I recommend reading this.  If you look at the tops of the shins when they're lined up, it may hold the clues to what they should be.  For me, this was the combination that worked....24/27 and 25/28.

 

What sealed it was seeing how the tops of the shins lined up when the front joint was trimmed down to 10mm on each side.  

 

http://obsidiustk.blogspot.com/2016/02/shinale-resolving-conflict-of.html

Posted

Hey Jim hold tight. A formal announcement on the subject is in the works and I think most will be pleased, until then everyone's patience is appreciated.

 

Did a consensus get reached on this?  I'm poised to go off of our Grand Moff TM's advice and do whatever it is that looks best.  It's only about an extra inch on either side...

Posted

Did a consensus get reached on this?  I'm poised to go off of our Grand Moff TM's advice and do whatever it is that looks best.  It's only about an extra inch on either side...

 

Yes but there's command staff reviews, which by the way have just concluded. We should have some new shortly, sorry for the delay folks. 

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I recommend reading this. If you look at the tops of the shins when they're lined up, it may hold the clues to what they should be. For me, this was the combination that worked....24/27 and 25/28.

 

What sealed it was seeing how the tops of the shins lined up when the front joint was trimmed down to 10mm on each side.

 

http://obsidiustk.blogspot.com/2016/02/shinale-resolving-conflict-of.html

Isn't there an issue with the parts being inconsistently numbered? If so going by the stickers may cause people to use different parts than intended by the person posting the part numbers.

 

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Posted

Isn't there an issue with the parts being inconsistently numbered? If so going by the stickers may cause people to use different parts than intended by the person posting the part numbers.

Exactly. Some kits are numbered correctly, apparently, but many are numbered wrong. So telling someone the numbers is fairly useless, unless you know HOW their kits were numbered.

 

The only reliable way to correctly identify the parts is to put them together and look. Until you know what to look for, best option is to post a photo so those who know how to tell the difference can make a recommendation.

  • Like 3
Posted

Exactly. Some kits are numbered correctly, apparently, but many are numbered wrong. So telling someone the numbers is fairly useless, unless you know HOW their kits were numbered.

 

The only reliable way to correctly identify the parts is to put them together and look. Until you know what to look for, best option is to post a photo so those who know how to tell the difference can make a recommendation.

Unfortunately it sounds like there are differing opinions among the experienced builders regarding which leg each shin goes on. But getting each shin assembled correctly is a good start.

 

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Posted

Unfortunately it sounds like there are differing opinions among the experienced builders regarding which leg each shin goes on. But getting each shin assembled correctly is a good start.

True, but I'm honestly not sure why there is disagreement. There's a curve that follows the line of a normal human leg (i.e., how the calf muscle bulges). That's what TrooperMaster uses as a key, and I really don't buy any arguments to the contrary that go against basic human anatomy.
Posted

True, but I'm honestly not sure why there is disagreement. There's a curve that follows the line of a normal human leg (i.e., how the calf muscle bulges). That's what TrooperMaster uses as a key, and I really don't buy any arguments to the contrary that go against basic human anatomy.

I think you had these " anatomical curves" laid out in your build thread didn't you ( for those that may only be following this thread)

Posted

I think you had these " anatomical curves" laid out in your build thread didn't you ( for those that may only be following this thread)

It was discussed ad nauseum, but I don't think I had the curves specifically laid out in my thread. (at least, I didn't see it when I started looking through the first few pages just now) I had a shot or two of the properly assembled pieces, though, plus some shots of the incorrectly-assembled ones. Most of the shin stuff happened on pages 2-3.

 

There were some pictures with curves posted somewhere, I just can't recall if it was in someone's thread here, or in the FB group.

Posted (edited)

I think you had these " anatomical curves" laid out in your build thread didn't you ( for those that may only be following this thread)

This is as good a place as any to actually go over this, so I grabbed a quick shot of shins and added some curves to show the lines, and grabbed some anatomical pics off the net.

 

Obviously there's a ton of variation to the human body (people who work out a lot can have some VERY different muscle profiles from the average body, bicyclists, for instance, will have unusually pronounced calf muscles that don't necessary line up the same way as for average bodies), but the generalized shape of the lower leg muscles is shown in these anatomical images:

 

20160501153445-6300854e.jpg

 

You can see there are, essentially, some longer muscles that run down the outside of the leg (Peroneus longus), and the much shorter, bunched calf muscles on the back which protrude to inside of the leg, viewed from the front (Gastocnemius).

 

The result is that there is a long, slow curve down the outside of the leg, while inside the leg, there is a much sharper curve that starts higher and comes in farther and sooner than the more gradual curve on the outside. This view shows it pretty clearly, I think:

 

20160501181421-87cca613.png

 

Mapping these curves onto properly assembled, laid out shin armor, viewed from the same angle, and you can see the sharper, higher curves to the inside, and the longer, slower curves to the outside:

 

20160501160126-b70e068b-la.jpg

 

It's hard to get just the right angle in a photo to clearly show everything you want in one picture, but IMO, this is fairly illustrative. The curve in the armor is pretty clear, to my eye. I don't see how anyone can look at the anatomy, and then look at the armor, and think it is supposed to be any other way.

 

It seems clear that the original sculptors of the screen armor must have had this basic human anatomy in mind. I suppose it's possible that the people actually assembling dozens of suits screwed up the assembly, but that's arguably a different discussion.

Edited by kman
  • Like 2
Posted

so newb question , left leg has sniper knee so if yes then the longer piece goes on the inside ankle?

As long as it's built right, and the ends haven't been trimmed down from the stock size, then yes.
Posted (edited)

It seems clear that the original sculptors of the screen armor must have had this basic human anatomy in mind. I suppose it's possible that the people actually assembling dozens of suits screwed up the assembly, but that's arguably a different discussion.

Brian sculpted the armour on a life-size human statue and the parts were shaped to compliment the human anatomy. Remember that the Anovos is not cast from an original (no drama please) and does not have the correct inner parts to make up the shins properly. If they did, you see a totally different look and feel to them compared to what they managed to produce. I tried to explain the shins were labelled incorrectly but someone who thinks he knows better convinced the masses I was wrong.

Edited by troopermaster
Posted

Brian sculpted the armour on a life-size human statue and the parts were shaped to compliment the human anatomy. Remember that the Anovos is not cast from an original (no drama please) and does not have the correct inner parts to make up the shins properly. If they did, you see a totally different look and feel to them compared to what they managed to produce. I tried to explain the shins were labelled incorrectly but someone who thinks he knows better convinced the masses I was wrong.

 

Well I felt it was about time I chimed after being bad mouthed again by my good friend Paul who seems to know no wrong. As stated in my build thread the shins I assembled for the trooper fit him correctly. Since then I've given plenty advice and instruction on how to assemble the shins and/or what they should possibly look like once assembled. Anyone following these threads would think by this time this should have sufficed Mr. TM but no. For someone who knows so much and has spent so many years in this hobby you didn't even know that when referring to a 3.5mm ear screw that you were referring to the shank size not the head size, which has been determined to be 6.5mm, simply making it easier for anyone to purchase accurately sized screws anywhere instead of specific mfg from the UK.

 

I'm more than gracious to give you kudos were kudos are due but you sir would prefer to drag anyone that doesn't agree with you through the mud over, and over, and over again. Your my way or the highway mentality is old and tiresome. Yes facts are important, they have purpose and meaning but so also is understanding and working through issues. This is not the Military and quite a few hobbyists here have grown tired of being chastised by you and others like you for not conforming to your will. Unless I'm incorrect, you are neither being paid by Lucas or Disney to be the accuracy hall monitor here on the FISD. In this hobby or any other no one deserves lectured to and /or treated like you sometimes treat others. 

 

In closing, if you have problem with me do what any normal human would do, communicate and send me a PM. Let's work it out.

Posted

I thought the Anovos leg issue was pretty straight forward. Some shins were mislabeled, some where not. It's easy to see how it could happen. Just little sticker numbers on them. Too much drama

 

 

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  • Like 4
Posted

The fact is that the shins are not labelled correctly and I know enough about armour to be able to tell which side is which. It's annoying when the least modified parts that should be on the outside are being made to be worn on the inside, giving a knock-kneed appearance. What's worse is that the kit does not come with the correct inner halves but instead the RS modified halves which makes them look much worse (from an accuracy standpoint).

 

I know the originals were less than perfect but that does not alter the fact that Anovos labelled them incorrectly and you assembled them incorrectly. Ever since I tried to offer you help with your build, knowing that there will be lots of people following you building these kits thus helping them too, you was always quick to dismiss my suggestions because it went against your method. I have been building armour for 15+ years and I know every trick in the book. I tried to help you and the rest of the people building these kits. Sorry for that!

Posted

Isn't it more accurate to say the shin parts were labelled inconsistently making any references to part number useless? Discussing the assembly based on the part shapes is what needs to be done.<br><br>

It's amazing that something as simple as this has caused so much controversy. Hopefully everyone can member this is a hobby and should be fun.

  • Like 2
Posted

kman's explanation for the assembling the shins makes sense to me. Does anyone have a reason to say that arrangement is incorrect?

Posted

From an accuracy standpoint and this is what the Centurion level is all about I just don't see how moving the notch forward with the shims makes any sense. If you look at the movie clips and lets assume the armor fits perfectly without shims then the notch is intended to line up with the butt plate and looks intentional.

 

Now if you are a larger gut trooper like me at 6'3 and 195 lbs I need shims to make the Anovos armor at centurion with no gap. So assuming I remove the Anovos molded notch and shim 1-1/2" on each side then recut the notch it is now 1-1/2" farther forward and doesn't line up with the butt plate and is now under my holster. How is this more screen accurate now that the notch is farther forward and out of place.

 

Keep in mind I am new to this and not trying to say anybody especially the DO and staff is wrong  I am just trying to understand the reasoning like many there new troopers seem to be. As a greenhorn with no experience it would seem that you would want the notch to match the butt plate with or without shims.

 

I think we need to keep in mind as Tony has said the CRL is a working evolution and can and does change.  With an open respectful discussion by all if it makes sense this too can change. Stay classy San Diego.

Sorry for late posting - job hassles. Actually Centurion is accuracy + troopability, it is not accuracy == prop replication. We are not the RPF trying to capture costume flubs, or how actors hacked apart the back of shins to move. This is why 501st standards only focus on what is seen by the viewer, not how they are put together.

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