Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Great thread, thanks for all the advice... lots to accomplish still for me.. just finished my initial cut outs... Not too many hassles. No cracks or tears.A couple of small, wayward slices during scoring, but not bad enough to see. If anything, it was hard to see the score lines on some pieces. I did find the plastic to be extra thick in a few places and it required heavier snips to help cut some pieces. Only had 2 really thin places that my exacto knife slid all the way through without much effort... Both of those were on the kidney belt piece. Other than that, the plastic seems very durable and flexible. Even when scored it took some effort to break the scrap free. in addition to sandpaper, I will be purchasing a dremel and bits for the final clean-up and fitment. From everything I have read, it seems to be a good investment and a huge help if used correctly and patiently. 

 

Onward...

  • Like 2
Posted

Hum, I don't know... Ditch that ugly EFX helmet? Please? Because that pink chair right next to you is more beautiful than it.

 

That there is literally desk slapping funny. I made a co-worker jump. 

 

-Eric

  • Like 3
Posted

I've seen some people talking about replacing this with brow trim from trooperbay...

Why? just curious

In my case, I didn't like how short the brow trim on mine was. I plan on replacing it with a piece from Trooperbay that I can cut to length and angle to match the traps. Not necessary, but more aesthetically pleasing to me.

  • Like 1
Posted

Slowly getting there!

 

c4e9f37f05c6aced29afe299d996fe47.jpg

b59445fc8f4b1caf0dc4a4ae83ac6731.jpg

 

Love to keep working on it tonight but I feel like this and need to get to bed...

6a69a25cf588a305d5f0124e1c5a9f0d.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

High?

 

Edit, pass the Cheetos

  • Like 2
Posted

So question, the kit only comes with silver split rivets, is that ok for the upper levels of approval for the crotch rivet?

Posted

Wow, from the top, the helmet is really wonky. Makes wearing it feel like it is twisted. Added some pads inside and tweaked the lens to avoid my nose.

 

d0e4f6dea08512fff2ddee4c7f9faef0.jpg

 

284291d973a200715c669257e6d3de77.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

So question, the kit only comes with silver split rivets, is that ok for the upper levels of approval for the crotch rivet?

I think it's ok. But correct me if I'm wrong - shouldn't the rivets be painted in white anyway?

Posted

I think it's ok. But correct me if I'm wrong - shouldn't the rivets be painted in white anyway?

All except for the crotch rivet. That one stays unpainted.

  • Like 1
Posted

Wow, from the top, the helmet is really wonky. Makes wearing it feel like it is twisted. Added some pads inside and tweaked the lens to avoid my nose.

 

d0e4f6dea08512fff2ddee4c7f9faef0.jpg

 

284291d973a200715c669257e6d3de77.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My helmet is just as wonky. 

 

Just tried putting my pad inserts in it... I couldn't get it to fit right. Plus.. I feel like I'd be more comfortable with the hardhat style anyway.

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction??

Posted

Obviously not TKBoots. Guess y will do for now but perhaps I trimmed the calves too small? Seemed to have the required 1/2". TKBoots are taller I think. Can't really slide the calves down any further.

 

eb690fdbbb39449c556675c5b02ea739.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Obviously not TKBoots. Guess y will do for now but perhaps I trimmed the calves too small? Seemed to have the required 1/2". TKBoots are taller I think. Can't really slide the calves down any further.

 

eb690fdbbb39449c556675c5b02ea739.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thinking I build the top of the boots up with white duct tape so they slide up under the shins for now. Have a work skit in a meeting on the 18th, so they just need to work for that.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Tony asked me to post about using padding as an alternative with this helmet so here you go! For those of you that don't prefer the hard hat liner helmet mount option, something a lot of us do is to mount helmet pads inside. They're great because they velcro on so it's very easy to put on, try it, adjust, repeat, etc. I immediately removed the liner on this new one and put these in and the helmet sits really nicely without being loose or tight.

 

 

20160127_060448_zps4ewv5and.jpg

 

a4e5c1b7-60ff-48ce-b5b7-45c74b797c47_zps

I actually started a thread about this and those are the pads I was going to order!  With your post and pics you've answered my question!  Thank you!

Posted (edited)

Is it possible to trim the back plate shoulder pieces? They are really digging into my shoulders because the corners point down.

Maybe rounding them off?

 

a14e465b6f804cc5c86f4c9222d63e03.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Tk52421
Posted

@Tk52421:<br>

Your shoes should be fine. Screen used books were white painted Chelsea boots and not - like the TKBoots - white leather.<br><br>

For your back plate: I think you can trim down the return edge.<br>

Just have a look on the gallery to compare with the original suits:<br>

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/59-the-rs-suit/'>http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/59-the-rs-suit/</a>

Posted

293055b983399714ac8a6a01fd1a01b2.jpg

 

Saw this earlier. It looks like the kidney & ab plate are riveted together on the left side. Is this okay for basic approval?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

the original bracket strapping system will work with the Anovos kit.  I've read that the original bracket system can cause worse cracking for certain armors as opposed to others.

Is there a tutorial or pics/diagrams for this "original bracket strapping system" ?   Also, what makes it better than system X, Y or Z?  Thanks!

Edited by thumpernicus
Posted

Not that I've found. Just trying to make due with the lack of buttons I have left over. Ha.

Posted

293055b983399714ac8a6a01fd1a01b2.jpg

 

Saw this earlier. It looks like the kidney & ab plate are riveted together on the left side. Is this okay for basic approval?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The rivets on the left are a requirement for Centurion level as long as they are 10mm from the edge, but I am still waiting to know if silver crotch split rivet is okay.

  • Like 2
Posted

@Target92: silver split rivets are ok, you will have to paint them white as mentioned before. Just have a look at the reference gallery!

 

Is there a tutorial or pics/diagrams for this "original bracket strapping system" ? Also, what makes it better than system X, Y or Z? Thanks!

The original strapping is screen accurate and works 100% fine if you do it right. Main difference to other strapping systems: the armor is not that easy disassembled. But it is very stable and easy to build. Since we have pictures from the LFL archives, we even know the exact measurements.
Posted

@Target92: silver split rivets are ok, you will have to paint them white as mentioned before. Just have a look at the reference gallery!

 

The original strapping is screen accurate and works 100% fine if you do it right. Main difference to other strapping systems: the armor is not that easy disassembled. But it is very stable and easy to build. Since we have pictures from the LFL archives, we even know the exact measurements.

 

I dunno man. Snap plates and elastic is more flexible and I think it makes it easier to adjust your TK to look good for your body type. 

 

A small minority of approved TKs use the original bracket system. I'm not sure I would recommend the original strapping system for everyone.

 

-Eric

  • Like 2
Posted

Since you do the adjustment only once in a lifetime, I think there's no difference between brackets/elastics and snaps/elastics. But it's obvious that snaps are easier to disassemble than screws are. Maybe snaps/elastics is more flexible, i dunno.<br>

I've used sort of snaps/elastics for my old armor and will do the original strapping for the new anovos kit.

Posted

@Target92: silver split rivets are ok, you will have to paint them white as mentioned before. Just have a look at the reference gallery!

Although the CRL does not specifically state it, I believe the single crotch rivet should not be painted. Also, I have read that it should be brass, however many of the Centurion applications I have seen have a silver rivet in this position, so it seems to be acceptable.

  • Like 1
Posted

Although the CRL does not specifically state it, I believe the single crotch rivet should not be painted. Also, I have read that it should be brass, however many of the Centurion applications I have seen have a silver rivet in this position, so it seems to be acceptable.

Brass or nickle is fine. Not painted at crotch. Left side rivets painted white.
  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...