C0bra_M3nace Posted January 25, 2016 Report Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) Hey guys! Held off a bit making this because, of course, I've been busy just working on my build. I got my brown box on the 21st, which was an awesome surprise considering I was only supposed to be getting it today. So far, I have quite a bit done. I got the majority of my rough trimming done Friday night, finished it all Saturday morning. I started fitting my shins and thighs and they are ready for cover strips. I also finished helmet construction this morning, after fighting with it most of last night. Looking to go for Centurion; why not do it the first time right? I have everything I need, I just have to do it. Thanks in advance for all the help you all will provide! Look forward to finishing this so I can TROOP! WOO! -Justin Edited January 25, 2016 by C0bra_M3nace 1 Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 25, 2016 Author Report Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) I do have a question about cover strips though; because I can't find anything difinitive about them. Most say 15mm for arms, 20 for thighs/shins and 25mm for back of thighs/shins. BUT! When I watched TK1636's videos on YouTube I noticed the cover strips on the thighs he built were more like 30-40mm; which I can only assume was meant for someone with bigger thighs. Now, I have somewhat bigger thighs and I'm probably going to need something like 25mm cover strips on the front and 25mm on the back maybe 30mm. (After initial sizing) Is this okay? From the info I've gathered and observed, the cover strip sizes listed are more of a guideline like "If you can, do that, but if you absolutely can't then stray keeping it as close as possible!" Thanks! Edited January 25, 2016 by C0bra_M3nace Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted January 25, 2016 Report Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) 25mm for the front and 25mm for the back sounds acceptable to me. Remember those are average measurements. The cover stripes used for the original armors are sometimes over the 20mm mark, and sometimes below it. But I would use a 30mm cover stripe for the back only in real need. i.e: cover an actual gap between the two halves. Good luck with that AP mk.II build! Edit: One thing I've noticed. You seem to have taken too much when trimming the abdomen button plate. There should be a small rim all around the raised section: Edited January 25, 2016 by The5thHorseman 1 Quote
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted January 25, 2016 Report Posted January 25, 2016 Try your best to use 20mm on the front of the thighs. You can give yourself a bit more room if you gap it, remember that it'll be covered on the front with a cover strip. This will expose a bit more ridge on each side but a little is still fine. If you need more room in the back, you can use a larger cover strip than the 25mm. You might even have to shim if you need a LOT more room. 1 Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 25, 2016 Author Report Posted January 25, 2016 25mm for the front and 25mm for the back sounds acceptable to me. Remember those are average measurements. The cover stripes used for the original armors are sometimes over the 20mm mark, and sometimes below it. But I would use a 30mm cover stripe for the back only in real need. i.e: cover an actual gap between the two halves. Good luck with that AP mk.II build! Edit: One thing I've noticed. You seem to have taken too much when trimming the abdomen button plate. There should be a small rim all around the raised section: I'm sure I left about 8mm or so all around it. The picture makes it hard to tell. If I did take too much off could I just take it all out then glue the plate to another piece of scrap ABS? Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 25, 2016 Author Report Posted January 25, 2016 Try your best to use 20mm on the front of the thighs. You can give yourself a bit more room if you gap it, remember that it'll be covered on the front with a cover strip. This will expose a bit more ridge on each side but a little is still fine. If you need more room in the back, you can use a larger cover strip than the 25mm. You might even have to shim if you need a LOT more room. Will do! On my test fit (with tape as the "cover strip") I had to twist it to get it up to the top of my thigh where it needs to be and very tight as well. I thought I'd seek advice before I went too far into them so I did other things. When I get back to them I'm gonna leave about a 5mm gab in the front and re-tape it so I can try that see if it's any better. Thanks! Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted January 25, 2016 Report Posted January 25, 2016 I'm sure I left about 8mm or so all around it. The picture makes it hard to tell. If I did take too much off could I just take it all out then glue the plate to another piece of scrap ABS? If you have left around 8mm around it, you're good. The picture makes it indeed hard to see. 1 Quote
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted January 25, 2016 Report Posted January 25, 2016 Remember when you get to that point to put your undersuit on as it is a bit slicker than bare skin and also sucks in some of fattier/thicker areas lol. 1 Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 25, 2016 Author Report Posted January 25, 2016 Remember when you get to that point to put your undersuit on as it is a bit slicker than bare skin and also sucks in some of fattier/thicker areas lol. Yup! Tested all fits with my under suit on! Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 26, 2016 Author Report Posted January 26, 2016 25mm for the front and 25mm for the back sounds acceptable to me. Remember those are average measurements. The cover stripes used for the original armors are sometimes over the 20mm mark, and sometimes below it. But I would use a 30mm cover stripe for the back only in real need. i.e: cover an actual gap between the two halves. Good luck with that AP mk.II build! Edit: One thing I've noticed. You seem to have taken too much when trimming the abdomen button plate. There should be a small rim all around the raised section: Okay so I think I did take off a bit too much. I went back to that piece this morning confident that it was okay but it may not be. Ironically enough, the cut does look similar to the original reference pic you uploaded; where it has one corner edge cut in too far. What do you guys think? Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 26, 2016 Author Report Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) Finished my bucket on Monday morning after having to walk away from it Sunday night. I had a hard time getting the right ear to fit. I had a very large gap at the back. (About 15mm) so I was getting frustrated and I didn't want to make a mistake so I took a little break. Came back to it in the morning and worked at the solution. Now I'm very proud of how it turned out, the helmet was something I was afraid of doing and I'm still a tad nervous about painting, but that's a problem for another day. Here's the helmet, any feedback if you see it please pass it on! I'm happy with it, but I'm always happy to hear things I can improve on! Edited January 26, 2016 by C0bra_M3nace Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted January 26, 2016 Report Posted January 26, 2016 Yep, I say it's looking great. The rim around the button plate is good, teeth on the helmet are squared as they should, ears are nicely trimmed and fitted, ... Move along! 1 Quote
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted January 26, 2016 Report Posted January 26, 2016 I was waiting for Germain to chime in lol. I think you escaped a replacement part just barely! 1 Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 26, 2016 Author Report Posted January 26, 2016 Looks great Yep, I say it's looking great. The rim around the button plate is good, teeth on the helmet are squared as they should, ears are nicely trimmed and fitted, ... Move along! I was waiting for Germain to chime in lol. I think you escaped a replacement part just barely! Thanks guys!! Gonna start getting the biceps and forearms put together Friday. Then maybe go back to legs. Quote
ABS80 Posted January 28, 2016 Report Posted January 28, 2016 Good job on the helmet! a metal ruler is very handy for cutting straight lines especially the shoulder straps, don't forget to leave 1/8 lip on each side of shoulder straps, many tend to remove too much material. Mark (AP) Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Posted January 28, 2016 Good job on the helmet! a metal ruler is very handy for cutting straight lines especially the shoulder straps, don't forget to leave 1/8 lip on each side of shoulder straps, many tend to remove too much material. Mark (AP) Thanks Mark! Loving the armour by the way! The new improvements are fantastic! Thanks for the tips! -Justin Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) I do have a quick question though guys. I'm far from this point yet, but thigh attachment. I know people who've attached them simply via snaps to the front of thigh then to a snap at the inside of the ab plate. Second method is the girdle system. Any preferences? If so why? My first thought is to attach them to the ab plate. However, if anyone has a good reason why I shouldn't I may look into a girdle style approach. Thanks! Edited January 28, 2016 by C0bra_M3nace Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted January 28, 2016 Report Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) Go with a girdle system. The thighs are the very first thing you put on when you're suiting up, and you want to be able to keep them in place so you can put your shoes and shin armors after. If the thighs were held by the abdomen plate that would mean that you need to either wear it before or after sliding the thighs, and then you would loose the ability to lean forward for the rest of the leg parts. Edited January 28, 2016 by The5thHorseman 1 Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Posted January 28, 2016 Go with a girdle system. The thighs are the very first thing you put on when you're suiting up, and you want to be able to keep them in place so you can put your shoes and shin armors after. If the thighs were held by the abdomen plate that would mean that you need to either wear it before or after sliding the thighs, and then you would loose the ability to lean forward for the rest of the leg parts. Awesome thanks!! Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Posted January 28, 2016 So I trimmed up the ab plate to line up with my kidney plate. Very happy with how it fits and looks. Which will obviously be better with no tape. Haha. I taped the butt plate to the kidney plate about where it will be so I could use it for guide as to where the kidney plate will actually end up. I'll also line it up a bit better when I can work with the strapping. Quote
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted January 28, 2016 Report Posted January 28, 2016 Perfect, now get to strapping. 1 Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) Another quickie. Before I glue these bad boys together, which will be tomorrow, is it okay to have the return edge on the inner forearm near the elbow? I've read many conflicting statements on it. I know for Centurion there is not supposed to be any at the lower part (wrist) which I don't, but I've read it's okay to have one at the inner top? I left it just in case, I like the fit and the look better personally. Just thought I'd check though to be sure. Other than that! Fitting is going spectacular and much better than I expected. Shoulder bells trimmed. Biceps trimmed, fitted and currently drying. Forearms fitted Thighs Fitted Shoulders straps fitted and currently drying. Ab plate/Kidney plate fitted (Awaiting snaps/straps) So far so good!! Edited January 28, 2016 by C0bra_M3nace Quote
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted January 28, 2016 Report Posted January 28, 2016 Yeah you can leave it at the top. I took mine off because it was too tight and it bit me 1 Quote
C0bra_M3nace Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) Another update! Got my posts set for the lenses. I used motherboard posts set in JB Weld putty. It's basically a plastic repair putty, supper easy to deal with (stinks) but works great. The motherboard posts are perfect because they have a male screw on the bottom and a female socket at the top. I just made posts with the putty and set the posts in there. I'll drill the holes in the lens afterwards for accuracy and better placement. I went with 3 at the top, but I'm going to place foam supports at the bottom of the eyes to hold that in place but I'll see when I get to that point. I forget who I saw this method from. It was in another build thread, Danny's if I remember correctly. THANK YOU! I love this method and take no credit for it. Lol. Edited January 28, 2016 by C0bra_M3nace Quote
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