Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)

[ukswrath[Staff]]

THANK YOU so much for all of the hard work and time you have put into this thread and keeping us up to date on developments like this!  Having this guide to follow has helped immeasurably as I begin to dig into my own Anovos build. 

 

 

Hi Tony,<br><br>

Just got my kit from Anovos and it looks great. Luckily I found your amazing tutorial here - I'm all new to this *excited* <br>

One first question though: are you actually cutting through the plastic with the sharpie knife, or do you just cut, let's say until half the thickness and then bend and "break" it of? Where to place the cut - in the middle of the gap or more toward the part that stays (regarding the rounding/bevel). I guess using sandpaper to finish it is obligatory...<br><br>

Thanks so much again - this will be quite a project for me <br><br>

Rob

 

Score x1 sometimes 2 then snap off, exacto knife. I suggest cutting at the cut indents. If you need to trim later then trim, if you need to shim then you'll shim.

Hope this helps

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Assembly cont....

 

6d. Ab to Kidney left side strapping

 

In this section I'll be illustrating how assembly the left side Ab to Kidney strapping using Anovos supplied components except for paint, which will be needed to paint the rivet heads.

 

Using the following items from the Anovos kit, cut three 1-1/2" strips of the 1" nylon webbing. 

 

 

If you drilled the holes in the Ab and Kidney as specified in the pre-assembly section (which was 10mm from the edge) then the distance between the two sections should be 20mm.

 

Create two sets of holes 20mm apart using a leather punch or other.

 

 

 

Install the Anovos supplied rivets in the Ab and Kidney holes with the spit end facing inwards.

 

 

 

 

Install a section of nylon webbing followed by the Anovos supplied flat washer

 

 

 

Place the head of the rivet on something sturdy. Using a chisel and hammer split the rivet.

 

 

Once split, using the hammer continue to drive the split ends down until flat. Follow his procedure for the remaining rivets.

 

 

 

 

What it should look like when finished

 

 

Paint rivet heads. Testers Gloss White seem to match pretty well. 

 

 

Left side finished

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Assembly cont....

 

6d. Ab to Kidney left side strapping

 

In this section I'll be illustrating how assembly the left side Ab to Kidney strapping using Anovos supplied components except for paint, which will be needed to paint the rivet heads.

 

Using the following items from the Anovos kit, cut three 1-1/2" strips of the 1" nylon webbing. 

 

 

If you a drilled the holes in the Ab and Kidney as specified in the pre-assembly section, which was 10mm from the edge then you had have a 20mm distance between the two sections holes. Create two sets of holes 20mm apart using a leather punch or other.

 

 

 

Install the Anovos supplied rivets in the Ab and Kidney holes with the spit end facing inwards.

 

 

Install a section of nylon wen webbing followed by the Anovos supplied flat washer

 

 

 

Place the head of the rivet on something sturdy. Using a chisel and hammer split the rivet.

 

 

Once split, using the hammer continue to drive the split ends down until flat. Follow his procedure for the remaining rivets.

 

 

What it should look like when finished

 

 

Paint rivet heads

 

 

Left side finished

[ukswrath[Staff]]

6e. Ab to kidney Right side strapping

 

Leaving off from sections 4f and 4g, In this next section I'll be illustrating how to create and install the right side Ab to Kidney connecting elastic strap. 

 

Reference pic

 

 

 

Using a 3-1/2" or so section of elastic out of the Anovos supplied kit, fold one end over 3/4" and sew.

Note: If you're have trouble closing the armor half sections you might want to make the strap a bit longer  .

 

 

 

Punch a hole in the center of the fold then install a female snap with the head on the non folded side.

 

 

Double check the strap measurement then measure the distance from the male snap on the ab side to the kidney return edge, subtract 1/2" for stretching. Measure and mark location on the kidney. Apply glue to the elastic or armor and clamp.

 

 

 

Let dry

[ukswrath[Staff]]

6g. Bracket System final assembly

 

In this section we'll be continuing from section 6a. I'll be illustrating the final installation of the bracket system which connects the chest plate to the ab plate, back plate to kidney, and kidney to posterior. This will be performed using Mr. NoStripes bracket system mentioned on page 1.  The bracket kit consists of 18 brackets, 15 short, 3 long, 9 connection elastic, machine screws and nuts. 

 

Due to this armor being so thin later on my build will illustrate how to create support pads for the brackets essentially spreading the stress over the entire bracket area surface instead of just at the screw heads. Being this is not movie accurate I'm keeping it separate from the original assembly.  

 

Reference pictures

 

 

The three longest brackets are mounted on the chest, the reminder are mounted on the ab, back, kidney and posterior. 

 

Starting with the posterior install the bracket connection and machine screws like so.

 

 

After completing one section install the adjacent section, incorporating the elastic connection material.

 

 

The assembly is pretty straight forward with all the brackets however, the center ab bracket will need to be bent a bit so that the bracket mount flat with the armor. Using a pair of pliers bend it into place.

 

 

After installation

 

 

Afterwards paint the heads of the machine screws white, they are to blend into the color of the armor. It's also recommended adding a dab of E6000 to the screw heads to help prevent the nut from backing off. NOTE: DO NOT use Loctite or an equivalent thread locking chemical as it may be harmful to the ABS material.

 

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Thanks for helping out Kalani 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

8f. Shoulder Cover Retaining Strap

 

In this short section I'll be illustrating how to install the shoulder cover retaining strap.

 

Using 3/16" white elastic, cut two sections roughly 6" long.

 

 

 

Wrap it around the shoulder strap and cover. Tie the ends in a tight knot. Slip it over the back plate and secure the covers.

 

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Hi Tony, I wanted to ask you whats the maximum gap I could have between my bicep and forearm pieces as I have quite long arm so don't want to look like odd 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35758-welshchris77s-anovos-build/page-2#entry473949

 

Hey Chris great question, as much as there should be little to no gap between the two if you're long arm Larry like me you need to balance the three sections out as much as possible. Looking at some screen reference pics basically bicep sits in the elbow joint. 

 

 

 

I would encourage you to take a look at some Centurion applications and see what others have done to overcome the situation.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/72-request-centurion-status/

[ukswrath[Staff]]

8e. Shoulder Cover assembly

 

Continuing on from section sections 8a and 8b, I'll be illustrating how to install the shoulder strap covers.  

 

Reference Pics

 

 

Cover strips trimmed. Ready chest for install

 

 

A good question that is always asked is how many cover strip ribs are to be on the chest plate? Looking at the pics above 4-6 in addition to the largest rib that faces forward is the average. If you have large shoulders you may have to go down to 3.

 

Assembly. Add glue to cover strips and clamp.

Note: Some peeps add strips of plastic in the valleys (in between the ribs) however, in my opinion the chest section is flat enough that doesn't need to be done.

 

 

 

 

Clamp and let dry.

 

Left

 

 

Right

 

 

Dried

 

 

Clean off excess glue.

 

EDIT: Forgot I'd already posted the cover elastic retainer, well here it is again.

 

Install Centurion required shoulder cover elastic retainer. Using 3/16" white elastic cut two sections at 6". wrap them around the shoulder straps and covers, tie in a tight knot and cut off excess.

 

 

 

Finished

[ukswrath[Staff]]

5b. Posterior rivet assembly

 

In this section I'll be installing the posterior "S" snaps. Continuing from 4g

 

Note: Line 24 snaps will work here also.

 

Reference pic. A you'll notice some have 1 snap others have 2. 

 

 

 

Using a two snap system, starting with the posterior measure in 1-3/8" and 5/8" or so from the tip of the cod.

 

 

 

As mentioned in the ab sections , using the same specifications to drill holes and install male snaps.

 

At this point you should be able to connect the cod strap.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

6f. Posterior to Cod

 

In this section I'll be illustrating to to make and install the Cod to posterior strap. Continuing from 4g

 

Using the 1" x 4" section of elastic from the Anovos supplied bag of goodies, in the case the hand guard elastic, remove or cut off the velcro.

 

 

 

Fold over one end 1/2", punch hole and install snap. On the opposite side do not fold but punch hole for cod split rivet.

 

 

 

Similar to that of the side split rivets, install rivet, washer and elastic.

 

[Rob78]

So I finally found some time to try the described technique (score & snap). Worked quite well and is also considerably faster! Many thanks again for explaining it! I guess I was just to "scared" to really snap it fearing to break/tear something... 

Now I have the forearm parts but as others asked already too the armor seems way too big for my forearms so I need to trim - question is: if I trim the inside part, do I have to cut both (long) sides? For example if I need to loose 10mm circumference is it ok to cut those 10 mm away from one side or do I have to cut 5 mm on each so that the shape does not look unbalanced? 

 

Regarding the lower repeating edge of the forearm (at the wrist): As described here, to be film accurate and for Centurion level these have to go: question is before or after assembly/glueing? 

 

Thanks for all the help!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

So I finally found some time to try the described technique (score & snap). Worked quite well and is also considerably faster! Many thanks again for explaining it! I guess I was just to "scared" to really snap it fearing to break/tear something... 

Now I have the forearm parts but as others asked already too the armor seems way too big for my forearms so I need to trim - question is: if I trim the inside part, do I have to cut both (long) sides? For example if I need to loose 10mm circumference is it ok to cut those 10 mm away from one side or do I have to cut 5 mm on each so that the shape does not look unbalanced? 

 

Regarding the lower repeating edge of the forearm (at the wrist): As described here, to be film accurate and for Centurion level these have to go: question is before or after assembly/glueing? 

 

Thanks for all the help!

 

The forearm cover strips are 15mm in width. As illustrated in my forearm assembly section, perform a fitment check. If the forearm are as big as you say then start with the front sections and cut each side equally so that when finished the return edge is just outside the total width of the cover strip.

 

The return edge on the wrist side is to be removed for Centurion level. You can remove it before the assembly or after. I personally remove it after the forearms are assembled.

 

Hope this helps 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

7h. Thigh Support System (part 2)

 

Continuing from part 1. With very little reference pictures the other half of the thigh support strap was either connected to waist belt via a anchor of some sort or looped around. If I'm incorrect someone I'm sure will let me know. That said, I'll be illustrating how to perform the loop version.

 

In a nutshell I had my trooper install the thighs and a leather belt he's using, loop the elastic around the belt, marked the location and sewed the ends.

 

 

Legs finished

[ukswrath[Staff]]

15a. Helmet Modification For Centurion and/or Accuracy Part 1

 

Part 2 - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=476501

 

Note: Out of the box the Anovos helmet meets basic, EIB and SHOULD meet Centurion standards however, their helmets are notorious for having paint overspray around the frown. During Centurion approvals if we see any over spray we will ask it to be removed.      

 

 

 

 

ANH Stunt also has a unique frown where it extends past the last tooth (uncut gap in the frown). Since you may already be working to repair the frown we would like that be fixed as well, pretty please.

 

Reference pic

 

Anovos

 

 

So... in this section I'll be illustrating how to make the helmet more accurate. Besides what's mentioned above the following modifications will be suggestions for accuracy only.

 

Starting with the frown, remove the inner screen to avoid getting paint on it, clean off overspray and repaint. Note: You can also square up the teeth a bit to give it a sharper look as Gazmosis did in his Anovos Helmet Rebuild tutorial.

 

 

 

Using paint thinner or Goof-off spray (not industrial strength) gently but firmly remove the over spray

 

After

 

 

Repaint the frown

 

 

Now for the eye sockets. Anovos left generous amounts of return edge for some reason. Not that it's all a bad thing judging by the reference pics below but we think it's a little excessive. In some cases if it's too excessive, at the Centurion level you may be asked to remove some.

 

Anovos (left)

 

Anovos (Right)

 

 

Cleaning up the eyes a bit.

 

After

 

 

Brow. Anovos put the helmet together with a straight brow, I personally like mine tapered. Here's a reference pic. Guy on the left has a straight brow like Anovos, the guy on the right has a tapered version. Either one is perfectly acceptable.  

 

 

 

Start by removing all the internal components, "S" seal and ears. 

 

After pulling the helmet apart I removed the Frankenstein lump above the brow which gave me better control over how the two sections of the helmet come together.

 

 

 

 

Reassemble the sections. Using magnets, center and position the brow the way I wanted.

 

 

 

Mark and drill new centering hole. Illustrated to the left of the magnet. The holes above and below the magnet are the ear mounting screws.

 

 

 

Install a couple of pop rivets. Though you technically only need one rivet or centering screw, I used two on each side due to the lower section of helmet wanting to spring out. Again the lower rivet is preference.

 

   

 

 

Installing the ears. So I reinstalled the ears setting them up similar to that of this reference pic.

 

 

 

My setup. I believe my brass replacement screws are a bit big so I may be posting some updated images. The intent here was to position the ears correctly.

 

 

Hovi tips. Eventually these will be replaced   but until then I'll be replacing the steel mesh with something not as fine.

 

Reference pic

 

Anovos

 

Remove screen and install replacement

 

Before

 

 

After

 

 

Reinstall the mesh inside the frown, giving it a little trim. Simply hot glue at each end and in the middle.

Face kinda looks cool from the inside don't you think? Menacing 

 

 

BOO!   

 

Lens time. 

I mounted my lens as seen here in this reference pic. Not entirely sure of its accurate but l use the same technique in all my buckets and it works excellent.

 

 

Long story short center your lens material, firmly pres against the ear screws leaving a dimple in the material. Drill the dimpled area with the same screw size, in my case 3/16". Install lens.

 

 

 

 

After a fitment my trooper complained about the lens material sitting on his nose. Using a sharpie I traced out the eye sockets and around the mounting holes then did some trimming.

 

After

 

 

Part 2 - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=476501

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Impressive work

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Thanks Mike, learned from the best here on the FISD.

 

I am currently fitting/trimming the forearms, so far so good. I have noticed though that I have lots of space around the wrist area, so I am wondering:

 

1. Is ok to trim the butt connections without being parallel to the original butt connection (to make the armor smaller in diameter at wrist area)? So would cutting along the red lines be ok, or should it stay parallel? On the front I followed your recommendation and cut parallel to have about 8mm on each side to fit the 15mm strip. 

 

2. The other question is about trimming the left forearm to get rid of the return edge. Both sides are angled when viewing from the side, so shall we cut straight (green line) or follow the original shape (red line)? 

 

Thanks!!

 

I'd say yes within reason. I would suggest finishing the front section first, then recheck the clearance before cutting more off the back. Make sure your hand fits, etc.

 

I just wanted to say thank you so very much to UKSwath and all the others for the information in this thread. I am officially approved for 501st.

You can call me TK41973!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Alright Chris! congrats brother, welcome to the 501st.

 

Hi Tony!<br><br>

Thanks for the helmet mod suggestions so we can get to Centurion. I assume re-paint the frown with Humbrol #5 Gray? Same as the control panel?<br><br>

Thanks Jeff

 

My pleasure and yes.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Great helmet tutorial for Centurion status!  I know a few guys that will be like...... "Dayam..... I have to do all that?!!!!"

 

 

* i'm sending them your way .....  i'm closing my workshop *    

 

Santa never closes his toy shop, get back to work Walter haha

[ukswrath[Staff]]

15c. Hovi tip mod

 

Before diving into the helmet part 2 I was asked to make a tutorial on how to replace the hovi tip screens for better accuracy. Instead of doing that let me just elaborate a bit on how it is done. 

 

Note: This is not required for any levels of approval. Also, if after reading this you don't feel like making this mod you can also buy the hovi sets from a few vendors in the sales section. For the rest of you, continue reading. 

 

Before. Fine screen mesh, not accurate.

Reference pic, accurate

 

 

1) Remove Hovis from bucket

2) Using a small (4") pair of needle nose pliers or similar, poke a hole through the screen material using one tip of the pliers.

3) Once through clamp down and twist until the screen detaches from the glue.

 

 

4) Using and exacto knife or similar remove any excess glue remaining on the hovi.

5) The screen. The screen I use are from the same hovi audio tips I sell. They're produced by using a special (somewhat expensive) screen punch tool. That said, before I purchased the tool I either purchased them pre cut or made them using the poor mans method.

Poor mans method - Head to your local dollar store or similar and purchase a flour sifter with relatively course mesh. Using a pair of tin snips, sheers, or strong scissors (you may have to throw away afterwards) cut a 17mm diameter patch of screen. Note this may take a little practice.

 

6) Install the screen using your fingernails or small screw driver to gently force the screen inside the hovi.

7) Secure screen with a tiny amount CA glue or similar.

 

After

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Good sir, the screen looks very similar to the screen from a faucet head - has this type of screen ever been found at Plumbing Wholesalers?

 

Nothing says it cant be used  

 

The $1 store flour sifter was a cheaper alternative suggestion. 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

On 3/11/2016 at 10:22 AM, mikidymac said:

I have the same issue and question on some parts.. I trimmed them larger than the molded cut lines so they will fit without shims but you can see the molded cut lines. So I too am curious if this is an approval deal breaker?

 

No not really, heck we have troopers all day long adding shims to the armor however, the question is are these faint cut lines visible? If not no worries, if they are cover them up with filler. With Jim's photo above he could easily add room by simply removing the upper return edge off the thigh. I'm not sure what the main issue is at this moment, still waiting for a reply.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

15b. Helmet Modifications for Centurion and Accuracy (part 2)

 

Part 1- http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=475530

 

Finishing off the helmet, let's start with accurate foam insert, again this is for accuracy only. There's nothing that says you have to do it this way. Padding or hard hat insert doesn't matter for any level of approval.

 

Reference pic

 

Using 1/2" to 3/4" foam cut out a section similar to this.

 

Install in helmet

 

Chin strap

 

Starting with to 8" x 3/4" black elastic, fold over the ends 1" and sew

 

 

Center at each end and punch a 1/8" hole through both sections.

 

Install a male "S" snap on one end of of one elastic, a female on the other

 

Check operation before installing in helmet

 

Install on lower ear stud and secure with nut

 

Finished. Ready for polishing

 

 

Part 1- http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=475530

[ukswrath[Staff]]

14b. Hand Guard, Centurion Update

 

In this section I'll be illustrating how to install flexible hard guards, not supplied by Anovos. Anovos supplied are obviously made of ABS plastic which are accepted at 501st basic and EIB however, rubber are required for Centurion.

 

Anovos

 

 

Besides trimming down the height of the plastic to around 1/4", how to install it is quite simple. Using the Anovos supplied velcro attach a section (with sticky backing) to the underside of the plastic hand guard. Attach the above shown hand strap then slide the strap over your hand. Note: The hand guards are left and right specific.

 

 

To illustrate the Centurion level installation I'll be using a set of Joseph's hand guards and the Anovos supplied gloves.

Using alcohol or  similar clean the top of the glove and the bottom of the rubber hand guard.

 

Test fit.

 

Note: The hand guards are left and right specific as mentioned above. The front of the hand guards are to be aligned with the lowest section between your fingers like so.

Left hand

 

Prepare to install.

 

I personally install foam into the glove prior to gluing the guard. 

 

Apply painters tape to top of guard. Add glue then attach to glove. Wrap with additional tape and let dry.

Note: I use CA glue when attaching hand guards, works better for me than E6000.

 

 

Finished. Clean off excess glue if necessary

[RickyBoyBlue[TK]]

Tony, so after cleaning up the overspray and correcting the paint on the frown, does the Anovos paintjob already passable for Centurion level? No required correction on the stripes, etc?

 

Looking forward to your thread on working magic inside the bucket (ie fans, speakers, etc). Unless I missed an existing thread?

 

Inspiring posts as always, Tony!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ukswrath[Staff]]

11b. Waist belt Centurion Update

 

In this section I'll be illustrating how to replace the Anovos supplied belt and install a more accurate, required belt. In this case I'll be using a belt from Kittle.

 

Remove old belt. Remove holster and drop boxes. Drill rivet heads holding cloth belt to ammo belt.

 

Old cloth belt

 

Flip over and drill out rivet head. Separate the sections.

 

Use something to gently pry rivet cover off ammo belt. Note: The cap is held on with plastic welder adhesive, very strong. If your having difficulty removing the cap a hot water bath or similar may assist in softening the glue. I know a butter knife isn't the best tool for the job but it worked.

 

After removal. I damaged the ammo belt under center cap, no biggie, easy to fix.

 

 

 

Using a dremel or other finished removing the remaining glue from the caps and belt.

 

 

 

Slight detour. Using garage sale sign material I repaired damages to belt from the back side. Using E6000 or other to adhere. 

 

After

 

 

Back on track. Measure, locate and mark the center of cloth belt

 

 

 

Center ammo belt with cloth belt vertically and horizontally.

 

 

Mark the cloth belt using the center, left and right ammo belt to cloth belt mounting holes

 

 

 

Preparing the cloth belt for mounting. Since the male snaps are already mounted installing the cloth belt is pretty simple. First I measured the distance of overlapping ammo belt, which ends up being roughly 8mm.

 

 

 

I placed the cloth belt on the ab just below the ab button mount lower edge. Measuring up 8mm to ensure the the ammo belt did not cover any of the painted buttons. 

 

 

Next I took a lead pencil and marked the top of the male snaps

 

 

Afterwards ensuring the belt was horizontal with the ab I pressed the belt against the male snaps leaving pencil material on the belt. After this I double and triple checked the alignment and height. 

 

 

 

Moving on. Using a 1/8" leather punch create holes for the mounting snaps.

 

 

Install female "S" snaps then test fit belt.

 

 

Continue and create holes to attach cloth belt to ammo belt. 

 

 

Using 1/8" x 1/4" pop rivets and washers connect cloth and ammo belts. Afterwards test fit belt again.

 

 

 

Apply E6000 glue to caps and install. Let dry.

 

 

 

 

Installing drop boxes

 

Cut two sections of 3/4" x 10" elastic.

 

 

Overlap the ends and punch a 1/8" hole roughly 1/2" from the end of the elastic.

 

 

Wrap elastic around cloth belt. Align drop box with ammo belt, mark drop box through newly created holes in elastic.

 

 

Drill 1/8" holes in drop boxes at marked locations. Using 1/8" x 1'4" rivets with washers secure elastic to drop box.

 

 

As previously mentioned in EIB belt modification, glue drop box elastic to to cloth belt. 

 

 

 

Installing holster 

 

Using template measure 20mm from ammo belt edge and 15mm from cloth belt lower edge. Mark location

 

 

Check holster alignment

 

 

Using a 3/16" leather punch create holster holes in cloth belt

 

 

Using Anovos Chicago screws mount holster.

 

 

Finished.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Tony, so after cleaning up the overspray and correcting the paint on the frown, does the Anovos paintjob already passable for Centurion level? No required correction on the stripes, etc?

 

Looking forward to your thread on working magic inside the bucket (ie fans, speakers, etc). Unless I missed an existing thread?

 

Inspiring posts as always, Tony!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yes unless the tube stripes are too far from the face. We've seen some as far away as 5/8". They're supposed to be a pencil width, give or take a smidgen  

 

Haven't posted the electronics yet. Waiting for the trooper to receive 501st approval first and thanks for the kind words.