boneyboy007[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 Hi Tony - quick question please on the cover strips for the thigh armour - i seem to have completely missed the bit about the strips not going all the way along the join :-( Will having the cover strip going all the way along the join affect 501st approval.?? It doesn't say anything on the 501st site or the CRL about it being a specific requirement or failure point. Heres hoping you say "its ok"..? :-) Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 Hi Tony - quick question please on the cover strips for the thigh armour - i seem to have completely missed the bit about the strips not going all the way along the join :-( Will having the cover strip going all the way along the join affect 501st approval.?? It doesn't say anything on the 501st site or the CRL about it being a specific requirement or failure point. Heres hoping you say "its ok"..? :-)You can cut the cover strip where you need to and just remove the cut part. I made the same mistake back in the day. 1 Quote
boneyboy007[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 You can cut the cover strip where you need to and just remove the cut part. I made the same mistake back in the day. So this would not be accepted then.? Quote
BDWC[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 A question about kidney shims, From examples I have seen, it looks like the shim extends the material above the notch. Is this acceptable for all levels or does the notch need to be removed and cut into the end of the added shim? Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 So this would not be accepted then.?Possibly. But it wouldn't be right. Cut it horizontally where it meets the ridge. Quote
boneyboy007[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) . Edited March 25, 2016 by boneyboy007 Quote
boneyboy007[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 AAgghh!!! [insert favourite swear word here] THESE BLOODY SHINS AND SNIPER PLATE!! This surely can't be right.? I've tried both the as instructed 24 +25 / 27 + 28 combo and the alternative 24 + 27 / 25 + 28 and i can't get these b*stard things to fit. Grrr!! Photos show instructed 27 + 28 combo for the left shin which for me seems to be the better fit. Some on the Anovos FB page have said fill the gap with off cuts.. is the gap or the filling process 501st approved.? Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Posted March 25, 2016 Hi Tony - quick question please on the cover strips for the thigh armour - i seem to have completely missed the bit about the strips not going all the way along the join :-( Will having the cover strip going all the way along the join affect 501st approval.?? It doesn't say anything on the 501st site or the CRL about it being a specific requirement or failure point. Heres hoping you say "its ok"..? :-) What Mathias said Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Posted March 25, 2016 AAgghh!!! [insert favourite swear word here] THESE BLOODY SHINS AND SNIPER PLATE!! This surely can't be right.? I've tried both the as instructed 24 +25 / 27 + 28 combo and the alternative 24 + 27 / 25 + 28 and i can't get these b*stard things to fit. Grrr!! Photos show instructed 27 + 28 combo for the left shin which for me seems to be the better fit. Some on the Anovos FB page have said fill the gap with off cuts.. is the gap or the filling process 501st approved.? The reason you may be having difficulties is it looks like the front shin return edge is too wide. Did you trim it down to 20mm total as illustrated? It looks to be 40mm or more. Are the vertical green lines the starting point of the front return edge? If so is the gap between the left and right return edges 20mm? Quote
boneyboy007[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 What Mathias said Oh fiddle. I was hoping to avoid messing with these. Quote
boneyboy007[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 The reason you may be having difficulties is it looks like the front shin return edge is too wide. Did you trim it down to 20mm total as illustrated? It looks to be 40mm or more. Are the vertical green lines the starting point of the front return edge? If so is the gap between the left and right return edges 20mm? I hadn't trimmed the front down that far but looks like that might solve it. Doing that now. Will post up revised images again in a mo. Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Posted March 25, 2016 I hadn't trimmed the front down that far but looks like that might solve it. Doing that now. Will post up revised images again in a mo. Quote
boneyboy007[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) Every time I touch these it changes or gets worse!! Having trimmed one set to about 13mm each front strip (10mm is just too tight for me) the original combo now looks so wrong.????? Which of these is right PLEASE!!! They look a bit odd to me now - the alternative 24+27 / 25+28 combo: These look better - the Anovos 24+25 / 27+28 combo: Before I trim the other set can you confirm if this is now right.?? Loosing hair fast and running out of blue tape.. and gin!! Edited March 25, 2016 by boneyboy007 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Posted March 25, 2016 Every time I touch these it changes or gets worse!! Having trimmed one set to about 13mm each front strip (10mm is just too tight for me) the original combo now looks so wrong.????? Which of these is right PLEASE!!! These look better - the Anovos 24+25 / 27+28 combo: Before I trim the other set can you confirm if this is now right.?? Loosing hair fast and running out of blue tape.. and gin!! It's a bit difficult to be exact but in your case the setup above appears to be your best bet. Btw way for those following this, approvals are coming through with the shins assembled both ways. As long as they look uniform you'll be fine. Quote
boneyboy007[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 It's a bit difficult to be exact but in your case the setup above appears to be your best bet. Btw way for those following this, approvals are coming through with the shins assembled both ways. As long as they look uniform you'll be fine. The master has spoken... I have E6000 ready and poised. Committing now !!! Thanks Tony My family have heard enough swear words for an Easter bank holiday. Quote
kman[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 A question about kidney shims, From examples I have seen, it looks like the shim extends the material above the notch. Is this acceptable for all levels or does the notch need to be removed and cut into the end of the added shim? The same question came up in my build thread. As I understand it, it's not something that has been fully settled yet. Shims are fairly easy to make, however, so I decided to go the simpler route just to get it built, and see how the dust settles. I made my shims by extending above the notch, not filling below then recreating the notch, and it looks correct to me. TrooperMaster agrees, Airborne Trooper does not, but as I said, to my knowledge it has not been formally settled yet by anyone with approval authority. Safe to say there is NO issue for basic, it's only a question for higher level approvals. Here's my shim: Also bear in mind, you really can't even see this detail once you're suited up with a belt on. (Note I have not filled the seam yet to make it disappear, partially until this issue is fully resolved, at least as to my personal build) Here is the discussion I mentioned, where TrooperMaster explains his reasoning: On your kidney where you added the shims, you need to go all the way down and eliminate the kidney notch that comes with the kit. Since you're extending it you have to make new 22 x 22mm notches on the shims. I had to do the same thing with my MTK.Why would he 'need' to do that? Do you not understand the concept of the notches on the kidney plate? If you need to shim your waist then this is the correct way to do it, although they look better glued in from the inside rather than the outside. The shim should come from above the notch as it is an extension of the kidney and the but plate line up with the notch. From my understanding, the notches are 22 x 22mm. If you need to add length to your kidney, using the molded in cut out location, i.e. AP kidney, they would be much longer than 22mm. By going what you're saying and having the notch start where but butt plate meets would mean the notch needs to be longer than 22mm. I see from Pandatroopers thread asking about this, it is in the air until after elections.I understand the 'rules' on here but they do not really apply to my way of thinking. The notches are different sizes on each side and they only appear on more accurate kits. I feel if someone is too big for the their armour then it looks much better to simply extend the part above the notch. If your armour does not have a notch then simply make a shim that starts 22mm above the lower edge of your kidney plate. It is kind of one of those things that does not really concern me since my kits come with the notches but I do not like to see others stressing out over something that is minor. If your kit does not have the notch then do not worry about it since it probably does not have a lot of other details it should have. Personally, I agree with TrooperMaster's line of thinking, and feel I've done it in an appropriate manner. I'm curious to hear Ukswrath's take on the matter, though. Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Posted March 25, 2016 The master has spoken... I have E6000 ready and poised. Committing now !!! Thanks Tony My family have heard enough swear words for an Easter bank holiday. haha, have a great weekend and Happy Easter The same question came up in my build thread. As I understand it, it's not something that has been fully settled yet. Shims are fairly easy to make, however, so I decided to go the simpler route just to get it built, and see how the dust settles. I made my shims by extending above the notch, not filling below then recreating the notch, and it looks correct to me. TrooperMaster agrees, Airborne Trooper does not, but as I said, to my knowledge it has not been formally settled yet by anyone with approval authority. Safe to say there is NO issue for basic, it's only a question for higher level approvals. Here's my shim: Also bear in mind, you really can't even see this detail once you're suited up with a belt on. (Note I have not filled the seam yet to make it disappear, partially until this issue is fully resolved, at least as to my personal build) Here is the discussion I mentioned, where TrooperMaster explains his reasoning: Personally, I agree with TrooperMaster's line of thinking, and feel I've done it in an appropriate manner. I'm curious to hear Ukswrath's take on the matter, though. Regarding the 22mm notch, btw this is for Centurion level only, the 22mm notch is to reside closest to the ab and kidney connection. Centurion is the ultimate level, Sly, myself and the staff have beat our heads against the wall regarding the 22mm, it's existence in the CRL, its placement and requirements. This is our current decision. If you are a larger trooper you'll have to shim or technically fill in the existing notch and recreate it in the correct location. Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 As for the shins and any other extremity, you will find it easier if you build the front to spec and used the back to adjust for size. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk 1 Quote
BDWC[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 The same question came up in my build thread. As I understand it, it's not something that has been fully settled yet. Shims are fairly easy to make, however, so I decided to go the simpler route just to get it built, and see how the dust settles. I made my shims by extending above the notch, not filling below then recreating the notch, and it looks correct to me. TrooperMaster agrees, Airborne Trooper does not, but as I said, to my knowledge it has not been formally settled yet by anyone with approval authority. Safe to say there is NO issue for basic, it's only a question for higher level approvals. Here's my shim: Also bear in mind, you really can't even see this detail once you're suited up with a belt on. (Note I have not filled the seam yet to make it disappear, partially until this issue is fully resolved, at least as to my personal build) Here is the discussion I mentioned, where TrooperMaster explains his reasoning: Personally, I agree with TrooperMaster's line of thinking, and feel I've done it in an appropriate manner. I'm curious to hear Ukswrath's take on the matter, though. Thanks and I agree it looks better this way. I'm also curious to find out Tony's take on this. I'm still a ways from finishing so I have time to find out the consensus .....first I still need to source some more ABS Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted March 25, 2016 Author Report Posted March 25, 2016 As for the shins and any other extremity, you will find it easier if you build the front to spec and used the back to adjust for size. Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk As stated earlier in this build thread lol Quote
TheCase Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 For those of you still in the market for 2" white elastic for the shoulders, I ordered the only huge roll available on Amazon. I don't mind cutting it up into 8" long pairs for others, after a nominal fee to cover my time and shipping. Probably no more than $1. PM me if interested. Quote
kman[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 Regarding the 22mm notch, btw this is for Centurion level only, the 22mm notch is to reside closest to the ab and kidney connection. Centurion is the ultimate level, Sly, myself and the staff have beat our heads against the wall regarding the 22mm, it's existence in the CRL, its placement and requirements. This is our current decision. If you are a larger trooper you'll have to shim or technically fill in the existing notch and recreate it in the correct location. Looks like that settles it! I should be good through EIB, but then I'll need to re-do my shims longer, and work the new notch into the design. Quote
BDWC[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 Looks like that settles it! I should be good through EIB, but then I'll need to re-do my shims longer, and work the new notch into the design. I think I'm in the same boat as you kman unless I start some serious ABS paste filling, if I can even match the kit color with whatever shim material I can find. I actually have large enough scrap from the fit, but those pieces are not smooth... Like they were stretched unevenly on the molds Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk Quote
BDWC[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 Also that requirement seems strange since the notch looks much better lining up with the butt plate Just sayin' Sent from my Imperial communicator using Tapatalk Quote
kman[TK] Posted March 25, 2016 Report Posted March 25, 2016 (edited) I think I'm in the same boat as you kman unless I start some serious ABS paste filling, if I can even match the kit color with whatever shim material I can find. I actually have large enough scrap from the fit, but those pieces are not smooth... Like they were stretched unevenly on the molds It's a pretty small piece to fill in. I'm almost looking forward to the challenge! It's only after EIB, so it's not something we need to do right away, at least. Are you sure you don't have pieces 22x22? The surface texture can be made fairly irrelevant if you use ABS paste and sand it perfectly smooth. I've seen others get a mirror finish over ABS paste, so it must be possible. Regardless be sure to save all of your scrap. You never know how much color-matched ABS paste you're going to need down the road! Edited March 25, 2016 by kman Quote
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