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Posted

Gary if you feel you may have difficulty replacing the belt I'd be happy to do it for you, just cover the cost of the new cloth belt and the shipping to/from my address. If this interests you send me a PM. Other than that give it a shot yourself, if all goes bad then you can buy a replacement. 

Posted (edited)

Tony and team - I've had my kit approved since Oct 17, and I notice my shoulder straps seem to be straightening out some, rather than curving like they should. I did add a support strap of ABS underneath it, which could be leading to the shape change. The ABS strip was glued on with E6000. Do you think a hot bath on the strap could correct it? Would a hot bath cause the e6000 to deteriorate?

Edited by beowshawitz
Posted

Hot bath, E6000 deteriorate, sometimes. You can do that or move the L3 elastic that secures the covers (straps) to the back plate  

Posted

Did you pre-bend the reinforcement strip? If not it could be causing deformation.

Posted
10 hours ago, ukswrath said:

Hot bath, E6000 deteriorate, sometimes. You can do that or move the L3 elastic that secures the covers (straps) to the back plate  

That is what I usually try to do. I try to get that elastic as close to the back of the strap as I can. It eventually moves up though. I want to try the hot bath. I might even try to only form the back half of the strap, so if the e6000 deteriorates it would only be on the back half. I could remove the support strip on that back half if necessary.

Posted
9 hours ago, Harbinger said:

Did you pre-bend the reinforcement strip? If not it could be causing deformation.

I tried to prebend the cover strip before. I didn't give the support strip a hot bath, I put it under some running hot water and then wrapped it around a vacuum canister and strapped it down for a day or two.  Like I said, I tried... The support strip I used was a for sale sign, nothing too rigid. I think the support strip is what is causing the shoulder strap to be straightening though.

Posted

Of course you can try the hot water bath I'm just concerned already fragile material weakening even more. Another option would be to add a 1" square section of white industrial strength velcro to the tail end of the cover strip and back plate. I had to do this a one of my armors, works great and nobody knows it's even there.

Posted
43 minutes ago, beowshawitz said:

That is what I usually try to do. I try to get that elastic as close to the back of the strap as I can. It eventually moves up though. I want to try the hot bath. I might even try to only form the back half of the strap, so if the e6000 deteriorates it would only be on the back half. I could remove the support strip on that back half if necessary.

Also, forgot to mention glue the shoulder plate elastic to the inside of the armor, this will prevent it from moving.

Posted
23 hours ago, ukswrath said:

Of course you can try the hot water bath I'm just concerned already fragile material weakening even more. Another option would be to add a 1" square section of white industrial strength velcro to the tail end of the cover strip and back plate. I had to do this a one of my armors, works great and nobody knows it's even there.

You know, I thought about doing this... I'm glad you mentioned it as well.  Would it get in the way of any higher level certifications? Should I e6000 the Velcro to the backplate and shoulder strap, or do you think the Velcro "sticky" should suffice?

23 hours ago, ukswrath said:

Also, forgot to mention glue the shoulder plate elastic to the inside of the armor, this will prevent it from moving.

Roger that!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hi, is the unassembled belt supplied with the Anovos TK kit 501st approvable or do I need to get a replacement.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Posted

If you mean the cloth belt, Troy, that really depends on your GML.  The canvas belt that is supplied with the Anovos kit is really flimsy, and may pass basic approval but certainly not anything higher.  It's strange that their holster is very well built, but they cheaped out on the canvas.  I highly suggest replacing it with a heavy-duty type, such as one from Rob (TKittell) located here:  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/

The quality is top-notch, as is the customer service.  Plus, he custom makes them to fit you perfectly.

 

If you are referring to the anovos ABS plastic belt, it is indeed approvable at all levels when constructed properly.

  • Like 2
Posted
If you mean the cloth belt, Troy, that really depends on your GML.  The canvas belt that is supplied with the Anovos kit is really flimsy, and may pass basic approval but certainly not anything higher.  It's strange that their holster is very well built, but they cheaped out on the canvas.  I highly suggest replacing it with a heavy-duty type, such as one from Rob (TKittell) located here:  https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/
The quality is top-notch, as is the customer service.  Plus, he custom makes them to fit you perfectly.
 
If you are referring to the anovos ABS plastic belt, it is indeed approvable at all levels when constructed properly.
Thanks, appreciate the feedback and advice.

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

The build thread has been updated to reflect the most current information, improve down time between sections, and clarify details regarding the shins. The build technically concludes on page 7, the remaining pages are Q&A. If I missed anything please let me know.

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Is the 3/16” white elastic used in section 8f for the retaining straps included with the ANOVOS kit? I did not see them mentioned on the supply page at the beginning of the thread. Please excuse me if I mistakenly overlooked it. Just need to know if I need to purchase those separately. Thank you! 

Posted
9 minutes ago, Erice3339 said:

Is the 3/16” white elastic used in section 8f for the retaining straps included with the ANOVOS kit? I did not see them mentioned on the supply page at the beginning of the thread. Please excuse me if I mistakenly overlooked it. Just need to know if I need to purchase those separately. Thank you! 

For the shoulder covers and required for Centurion ;)

 

Reference photo

 

1886740897_elasticshoulder2.JPG.120fac328cd7a9b236dc19e01d6b831c.JPG

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, ukswrath said:

For the shoulder covers and required for Centurion ;)

 

Reference photo

 

1886740897_elasticshoulder2.JPG.120fac328cd7a9b236dc19e01d6b831c.JPG

 I was able to discern as much; however, I was asking whether I need to order a role of 3/16” white elastic or if ANOVOS supplies them with the kit. Thanks for the reply and awesome build thread. 

Edited by Erice3339
Posted

lol sorry, roughly 12" per side leaving extra to trim 

 

EDIT: never seen this material in an Anovos kit

Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

lol sorry, roughly 12" per side leaving extra to trim 

 

EDIT: never seen this material in an Anovos kit

No worries! Thanks for the info. My local Joann’s has 2/16” and 4/16” white elastic, but no 3/16”. Do you think either of these will suffice or does it have to specifically be 3/16”? 

 

Both options at Joann’s supply more than enough for a dollar or two. 

Edited by Erice3339
Posted
26 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

2/16 aka1/8" will do

Perfect, thanks for your help and this thread. It’s a savior for beginners. Hopefully I’ll end up with a kit more accurate than the ones used in ANH themselves, ha! You’re to thank for that! 

Posted

Thanks for the kudos. People helped me get started with my first TK, now I'm just paying it forward. THT  

  • Like 1
Posted
On 6/25/2018 at 7:53 PM, ukswrath said:

Thanks for the kudos. People helped me get started with my first TK, now I'm just paying it forward. THT  

Hey Tony, excellent guide!

 

I'm looking to cinch down the ab and kidney as my waist isn't that large- would you recommend trimming (if any at all) to both ab and kidney? I'd like to cinch it up approximately an inch on each side at the top, the lower circumference is good for me as is. I'm planning to cut .5 inch from the tops of the ab and kidney. My ultimate goal is reduce the "pot belly" look and horizontal flaring when viewing from the front.

 

Cinched up with tape.

bfiuCaV.jpg

 

Flaring - Once material removed, I'm planning to give it a hot water bath to reduce the tension

5avrX6P.jpg

 

The amount I'm looking to remove.

Tbbj0fS.jpg

Posted

I suggest removing most this Ab return edge first. Post another photo afterwards. 

 

bfiuCaVb.jpg.38e4a20dd61d559b4c679d311e69d70e.jpg

Posted
24 minutes ago, ukswrath said:

I suggest removing most this Ab return edge first. Post another photo afterwards. 

 

bfiuCaVb.jpg.38e4a20dd61d559b4c679d311e69d70e.jpg

Maybe I should've asked for clarification... but I removed the AB return edges from both sides... :( It's snug at the hips, but I can still close it with no gaps. I'm also wearing 2 layers (had to put on my Sunday suit). There's still some flaring at the top, but much less now.

 

CEL3fAK.jpg

 

7FdhDjM.jpg

 

jSsGGxz.jpg

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