Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Take a look at Walter's thread. He did a lot of shim work and he's a Centurion

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26001-haribon72s-anh-stormtrooper-ne-hero-build/

[Tanz]

Thanks for this Thread. As I begin to build my first Armor set, this will totally help 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

My pleasure. Have any questions feel free to ask.

[mikidymac[TK]]

Hello Tony,

Do you have a measurement on the elastic piece connecting the Cod to the Butt? I saw the section where you install it but no measurements given.

 

Also on the butt plate you said to install the snaps, one at 5/8" and one at 1-1/8" and your first picture shows the measure between them at 1/2" then the next picture after you drill the first hole shows them more than 3/4" apart where you actually drill the second hole.

 

I did mine at the 5/8" and 1-1/8" measurements and they look too close once installed. Could you please revise this to eliminate future mistakes?

 

Thanks.

Edited September 30, 2016 by mikidymac

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Hey Brian, I use "S" popper snaps which allows for more clearance between snaps. There's not a set or required measurement for that area but I think this is what your looking for http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=474712.

 

BTW the elastic strap is 3/4"

[mikidymac[TK]]

Hey Brian, I use "S" popper snaps which allows for more clearance between snaps. There's not a set or required measurement for that area but I think this is what your looking for http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=474712.

 

BTW the elastic strap is 3/4"

Yes, Tony, that is the spot I was talking about. In your second picture where you show the two pencil marks and the ruler showing 1/2" between them and your typed measurements of 5/8" and 1-1/8" from the edge are in agreement. This puts the snaps very close together. Then in the next picture after you drilled the first hole the pencil mark is now shown at 3/4" for the second hole to be drilled from the first hole. THis looks like a better clearance and where you made your final drill hole. I was suggesting changing the measurements to 5/8" and 1-3/8" in the text portion to match your final location. I did mine at the 5/8" and 1-1/8" marks and 1/2" apart as you said and when they appeared to be too close using the same snaps as you is when I noticed the next picture with them further apart.

 

Does that make sense?

 

On the elastic, sorry, I know it is 3/4" what is the length from rivet to snap?

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Absolutely, thanks for the catch. One picture eliminated, measurements changed to "...1-3/8" and 5/8" or so from the tip of the cod"

[mikidymac[TK]]

Oh, now you tell me after mine is ruined. Thanks a lot Tony. LOL, all in good fun, STOP looking at my cod!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

[mikidymac[TK]]

Hello Tony, its me again....

On to the TD, I see you removed 3/16" from each end of the TD but since it doesn't have a center in the beginning couldn't you just save yourself a cut and trim 3/8" from one end? Yes, I am and engineer. LOL.

And BTW, while I consider myself quite smart I burned myself boiling the back and shins, not shaping them but dumping out the pan. Classic!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Hello Tony, its me again....

On to the TD, I see you removed 3/16" from each end of the TD but since it doesn't have a center in the beginning couldn't you just save yourself a cut and trim 3/8" from one end? Yes, I am and engineer. LOL.

And BTW, while I consider myself quite smart I burned myself boiling the back and shins, not shaping them but dumping out the pan. Classic!

 

Yea, that was because I assumed the tube length was correct during assembly and realized after I painted and installed the face plate it wasn't. You are correct removing material from one side is all that is needed, and the most logical. This is a classic example of measure twice and cut once oversight. Thanks for bringing that up Brian 

[Dekard[501st]]

What kind of glue are we using here: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/ukswrath1/DO/Screen%20Reference/gallery_12157_59_6157.jpg

[ukswrath[Staff]]

What kind of glue are we using here: http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y200/ukswrath1/DO/Screen%20Reference/gallery_12157_59_6157.jpg

 

E6000

[Dekard[501st]]

Ok, looked white-ish. So figured it was an epoxy or some fabric type of glue. 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

The movie armor elastic was painted white in certain areas.

[Dezijan]

So I've seen mentions of using exacto knives and such to trim the pieces. I just started my anovos kit today, trimming the backplate and some chest pieces. I used both an exacto and utility knife. Perhaps i and not pressing hard enough or somthing. The pieces are very hard to cut. The trims i did do are messy and will require lots of cleanup and sanding. Is there something i am missing or doing wrong? Any recommendations before i end up destroying pieces?<br><br>

Thanks,<br>

DEZ

[Chapaaz[501st]]

So I've seen mentions of using exacto knives and such to trim the pieces. I just started my anovos kit today, trimming the backplate and some chest pieces. I used both an exacto and utility knife. Perhaps i and not pressing hard enough or somthing. The pieces are very hard to cut. The trims i did do are messy and will require lots of cleanup and sanding. Is there something i am missing or doing wrong? Any recommendations before i end up destroying pieces?<br><br>

Thanks,<br>

DEZ

Don't go for the cut all the way through, use the score and snap technique. I only used an exacto knife for the cover strips I used lexan scissors for everything else.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

[ukswrath[Staff]]

So I've seen mentions of using exacto knives and such to trim the pieces. I just started my anovos kit today, trimming the backplate and some chest pieces. I used both an exacto and utility knife. Perhaps i and not pressing hard enough or somthing. The pieces are very hard to cut. The trims i did do are messy and will require lots of cleanup and sanding. Is there something i am missing or doing wrong? Any recommendations before i end up destroying pieces?<br><br>

Thanks,<br>

DEZ

 

Hey Davis as Kev mentioned all you need to do is penetrate one side then snap the excess off. The clean up will be a bit tedious unless you have some sort of electric sander, hand held or other. Take your time, be patient and remember "measure twice cut once". If you have further questions we're here to help.

[Dezijan]

Hey Davis as Kev mentioned all you need to do is penetrate one side then snap the excess off. The clean up will be a bit tedious unless you have some sort of electric sander, hand held or other. Take your time, be patient and remember "measure twice cut once". If you have further questions we're here to help.

Thanks for the advice. I will try the scissors as mentioned elsewhere. I have done the cut and score to snap off. It just doesnt seem to cut deep enough. When i go to snap off it almost bends the entire piece causing folds in the plastic. Maybe my cut technique is bad. Maybe the knife is dull. I will have to do a lot of sanding to smooth it out.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Thanks for the advice. I will try the scissors as mentioned elsewhere. I have done the cut and score to snap off. It just doesnt seem to cut deep enough. When i go to snap off it almost bends the entire piece causing folds in the plastic. Maybe my cut technique is bad. Maybe the knife is dull. I will have to do a lot of sanding to smooth it out.

 

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

The plastic Anovos uses doesn't always corporate. In some areas it's very thin and the score and snap method may not work well or at all. Cutting completely through may be your only option. Note: The material is prone to tearing so be very aware when snapping.

[cpm10682]

Ukswrath I am almost done following along with you guide for my TK. It is beyond useful. However one thing I keep having problems with is return edge size. I know they are not required, but I want to keep them where comfortable.

 

It would be extremely useful if sometime you could add a separate section (or maybe in fitment alterations) for all of your return edge sizes in mm. I am a similar size as you and it would save me, and probably others much guess work. I am having a hard time telling in the pics.

Edited October 17, 2016 by cpm10682

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Ukswrath I am almost done following along with you guide for my TK. It is beyond useful. However one thing I keep having problems with is return edge size. I know they are not required, but I want to keep them where comfortable.

 

It would be extremely useful if sometime you could add a separate section (or maybe in fitment alterations) for all of your return edge sizes in mm. I am a similar size as you and it would save me, and probably others much guess work. I am having a hard time telling in the pics.

If you are doing return edges I suggest 3-5mm. Just enough to add some "thickness" but not enough to cause major discomfort.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Ukswrath I am almost done following along with you guide for my TK. It is beyond useful. However one thing I keep having problems with is return edge size. I know they are not required, but I want to keep them where comfortable.

 

It would be extremely useful if sometime you could add a separate section (or maybe in fitment alterations) for all of your return edge sizes in mm. I am a similar size as you and it would save me, and probably others much guess work. I am having a hard time telling in the pics.

 

Thanks for the kudos Craig. The reason why return edge sizes are not posted are because it's builder specific. What works for me may not work for you, etc, etc. The only clearance I mention is the 1/2" between your body and armor. 

[cpm10682]

Thanks for the kudos Craig. The reason why return edge sizes are not posted are because it's builder specific. What works for me may not work for you, etc, etc. The only clearance I mention is the 1/2" between your body and armor.

I will trim all of my return edges down to 3-5mm. I've already tapered the return edge on bicep top, and shoulders. Other than wrist and bottom of shins other other areas where you guys removed all of the return edge? (I'm debating on all arm and leg parts).

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

I will trim all of my return edges down to 3-5mm. I've already tapered the return edge on bicep top, and shoulders. Other than wrist and bottom of shins other other areas where you guys removed all of the return edge? (I'm debating on all arm and leg parts).

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My suggestion is to get it to where you think you want it then put the armor on and walk around and just do normal daily stuff inside for 20-30 minutes. It will become very clear where you need to take off more or take it off all together.

 

As mentioned we are all shaped slightly different so where it rubs me the wrong way may not have any effect on you at all. I discovered the bad places during a 1 mile parade! Don't be me.

 

 

Jim - TK50899

Edited October 17, 2016 by MoSc0ut