Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)

[ukswrath[Staff]]

So finally getting around to piecing my Anovos together. Got all the main parts cut out and starting with the forearms. My question  on the left one, what size am I sizing it to? Is it supposed to be tighter than what the piece is already? It's kind of tight on the elbow side (haven't trimmed off any of the gain), but the wrist side has got about 1/2 inch freedom especially after trimming the front gain. Is that about right? 

 

-shnar

 

In my build I discuss trimming the return edge facing the front to closely match that of the 15mm cover strip. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=45885, 

 

That said, some will have arms that are too large even for those specs. If so you may need to remove less so that you can get your arm in and out. Your best bet is to post a pic here with the armor taped around your arm, as seen here. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=461326

 

Afterwards we'll have a better idea of what your dealing with.

[Luke S]

This sounds like a dumb question and I must be missing something. <br><br>

On line 7 of the parts list are snaps from Tandy or fasnap. Tandys are over $60 (yikes!)while fastsnap is only around $20. The link to fasnap has several size options for the Line 24 snaps. Which ones are the correct size as none correlate to the sizes in the Tandy link?

[Darkpain714[TK]]

Hey there ukswrath! I've used your build thread as a guideline for my build and I'm beyond thrilled to say with the help of my Squad, I've submitted my photos for approval! However, the thighs are jabbing me in the butt pretty bad. My squad has suggested I chop the tops of the back of the thighs for a better fit and more comfort while trooping. My question to you is, will I be able to get approved for EIB and someday Centurion status if I do that? 

 

Here is my build thread with submission pics: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37743-darkpains-anh-stunt-build-anovos-first-build/?p=514829

 

Here is a rear shot from that for quick reference:

 

 

Here is a shot of the recommend cuts by my Squad. The suggestion is to cut everything off that is above the masking tape: 

[kman[TK]]

I'd go with a more rounded approach, to try to maintain more of the original shape, but some general trimming there is not uncommon, especially when needed for comfort.

[kman[TK]]

This sounds like a dumb question and I must be missing something. <br><br>

On line 7 of the parts list are snaps from Tandy or fasnap. Tandys are over $60 (yikes!)while fastsnap is only around $20. The link to fasnap has several size options for the Line 24 snaps. Which ones are the correct size as none correlate to the sizes in the Tandy link?

I don't have a direct answer to your question (I bought my Tandy snaps from Amazon), but I will point out that Tandy snaps are usually available for less on eBay (although be sure to choose a reliable seller!), and more importantly, those snaps go on sale several times per year for half price (Around $30 instead of the full $65 price). If you can wait, keep an eye out, and wait for the price to drop!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

This sounds like a dumb question and I must be missing something. <br><br>

On line 7 of the parts list are snaps from Tandy or fasnap. Tandys are over $60 (yikes!)while fastsnap is only around $20. The link to fasnap has several size options for the Line 24 snaps. Which ones are the correct size as none correlate to the sizes in the Tandy link?

 

Hey Luke, 3/16" posts are fine with the Fasnap however, the catch is you have to buy a minimum $50 which leaves you buying doubles of almost everything. The good news is you'll use them in the future, trust me. Not to mention they're high grade snaps. I run one snap per single connection point. A lot of others run two. With high grade snaps you won't need two. 

 

Tandy length is preset in the pack so you're good to go with the link provided.

 

 

Hey there ukswrath! I've used your build thread as a guideline for my build and I'm beyond thrilled to say with the help of my Squad, I've submitted my photos for approval! However, the thighs are jabbing me in the butt pretty bad. My squad has suggested I chop the tops of the back of the thighs for a better fit and more comfort while trooping. My question to you is, will I be able to get approved for EIB and someday Centurion status if I do that? 

 

Here is my build thread with submission pics: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/37743-darkpains-anh-stunt-build-anovos-first-build/?p=514829

 

Here is a rear shot from that for quick reference:

 

 

Here is a shot of the recommend cuts by my Squad. The suggestion is to cut everything off that is above the masking tape: 

 

 

Suggestion, trim the cover strip so that it doesn't extend past the armor then remove all the return edge in that area. If you're shooting for EIB and Centurion apply and pass those apps first if possible before making any huge trimming cuts. Great job btw.

[TK 22686[TK]]

I don't have a direct answer to your question (I bought my Tandy snaps from Amazon), but I will point out that Tandy snaps are usually available for less on eBay (although be sure to choose a reliable seller!), and more importantly, those snaps go on sale several times per year for half price (Around $30 instead of the full $65 price). If you can wait, keep an eye out, and wait for the price to drop!

 

This is where I bought my Line 24 snaps from.  They were in original Tandy packaging and have served me well.  

 

https://www.stecksstore.com/line-24-nickel-snaps-100-pack-1263-12/

 

You'll also want these....

 

https://www.stecksstore.com/line-20-24-craftool-snap-rivet-anvil-8056-00/

https://www.stecksstore.com/line-24-craftool-durable-dot-snap-setter-8058-00/

https://www.stecksstore.com/polymer-head-stamping-mallet-medium-3301-03/

 

When I'm setting into something like a single strip of nylon or the ABS, I'll put the male end together and trim off excess post with a dremel, so their isn't so much excess material.  The snaps are designed to be set into thicker leather, our ABS is millimeters thick.  

 

It's normally about $70 on Tandy's website, often times they'll be on sale for $35ish.  These were about $20 and I have not had any issues with these snaps.  They're the old style Tandy that does not have "Tandy" stamped on the bottom of the snaps.  Arrived in a few days as well.  They have the setting tools that I also recommend picking up.

Edited August 17, 2016 by E_Palpatine

[Luke S]

Thanks for the answers. I just ordered all on your list E_Palpatine. Thanks for the links.

[Luke S]

Thanks for the answers. I just ordered all on your list E_Palpatine. Thanks for the links.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Thanks for the answers. I just ordered all on your list E_Palpatine. Thanks for the links.

 

[Luke S]

First I will state that I realize there's a huge discussion on which shin goes with which. I'm not looking to start that debate.<br><br><br>

I want to confirm which I have. Mine are numbered but I'm not sure they're numbered like Tony's. <br><br><br>

The shins on the left with not painters tape have a hard return line while the shins on the right have little to no return edge. <br><br><br>

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/cfea2d19dff553a7dc2ef2c437ae3a52_zpsbdbctdat.jpg%27' class="bbc_url" title="External link">http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/cfea2d19dff553a7dc2ef2c437ae3a52_zpsbdbctdat.jpg'>http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/cfea2d19dff553a7dc2ef2c437ae3a52_zpsbdbctdat.jpg</a></a><br><br><br>

The other issue I have is that in what I think matches UKS 24, I have zero return line on the lower half of the shin. I measure out 10 mm from what appears to be the edge but I get a curved line that wants to take off 1/2" or more.

Edited September 11, 2016 by Luke S

[Luke S]

For some reason the direct link on FB is not working. The link in the post works fine though.

Edited September 11, 2016 by Luke S

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Luke try arranging them like this and repost another picture

 

[Luke S]

That seems to make sense. I read all of the discussion on which went where and it only made things worse. LOL. I was trying to make the two with the hard return up edge match.&lt;br&gt;<br><br>

Thanks again.<br><br><br>

The left leg is really wide and seems deformed quite a bit compared to the right. <br><br>

My numbers definitely did match your numbers. Right now as wearing it from left to right I have what I've renumbered as 27, 24, 25, 28. Two of my numbers matched yours. <br><br>

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/81aa2e75f0683d5fa9d50d362de75d5c_zpsjfurq7zz.jpg'>http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/81aa2e75f0683d5fa9d50d362de75d5c_zpsjfurq7zz.jpg</a>

Edited September 12, 2016 by Luke S

[ukswrath[Staff]]

no problem

[ukswrath[Staff]]

That seems to make sense. I read all of the discussion on which went where and it only made things worse. LOL. I was trying to make the two with the hard return up edge match.&lt;br&gt;<br><br>

Thanks again.<br><br><br>

The left leg is really wide and seems deformed quite a bit compared to the right. <br><br>

My numbers definitely did match your numbers. Right now as wearing it from left to right I have what I've renumbered as 27, 24, 25, 28. Two of my numbers matched yours. <br><br>

<a data-ipb='nomediaparse' href='http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/81aa2e75f0683d5fa9d50d362de75d5c_zpsjfurq7zz.jpg'>http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t200/laspiess/81aa2e75f0683d5fa9d50d362de75d5c_zpsjfurq7zz.jpg</a>

 

 

Assemble them as you have them shown here. 

[TK 22686[TK]]

Tony, I want to get a good to go on my sniper plate arrangement.  The only concern is the right side that slopes downward quite a bit; however....it must do this to follow the bump at the top of the shin.  How does everything look to you?

 

  

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Looks good Jason 

[Transport]

3f. Rear Closure (Straps and Fasteners (aka bra hooks)

 

In this section I'll be illustrating how to create the rear calf closure strap & hook assemblies instead of using the Anovos supplied velcro. Either one is excepted at all level of approval but the Straps and hooks are the most accurate.

 

NOTE: As mentioned in a previous post, as for which sections go with what leg is up for debate. I suggest test fitting the shins and walk around. Once you're satisfied continue on. 

 

Here's a reference picture

 

 

I'll be using 3/4" white elastic and size 3 bra fasteners. You'll need a sewing machine and or needle and thread.

For the adventurous I have a tutorial on how to make the hooks from scratch, though not considered entirely screen accurate. 

 

Starting with the elastic cut six 4" sections.

 

 

 

 

Checking the fit before sewing.

 

 

Fold one end over 1" and sew in place.

 

 

 

Now hand sew in the fasteners to the folded side of the elastic.

 

Fasteners

 

 

 

After sewing

 

 

Ready to glue

 

3f. Rear Closure (Straps and Fasteners (aka bra hooks)

 

In this section I'll be illustrating how to create the rear calf closure strap & hook assemblies instead of using the Anovos supplied velcro. Either one is excepted at all level of approval but the Straps and hooks are the most accurate.

 

NOTE: As mentioned in a previous post, as for which sections go with what leg is up for debate. I suggest test fitting the shins and walk around. Once you're satisfied continue on. 

 

Here's a reference picture

 

 

I'll be using 3/4" white elastic and size 3 bra fasteners. You'll need a sewing machine and or needle and thread.

For the adventurous I have a tutorial on how to make the hooks from scratch, though not considered entirely screen accurate. 

 

Starting with the elastic cut six 4" sections.

 

 

 

 

Checking the fit before sewing.

 

 

Fold one end over 1" and sew in place.

 

 

 

Now hand sew in the fasteners to the folded side of the elastic.

 

Fasteners

 

 

 

After sewing

 

 

Ready to glue

 

Where do you drill the holes?

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Here ya go

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35086-ukswraths-anovos-tk-build/?p=470387

[shnar]

So I apparently have 16 inch biceps. Even trimming the edges down, the kit's biceps are too small for me. What's the best way to shim it out?

 

-shnar

[ukswrath[Staff]]

So I apparently have 16 inch biceps. Even trimming the edges down, the kit's biceps are too small for me. What's the best way to shim it out?

 

-shnar

 

Remove the majority, if not all the upper and lower return edge to help create room. If you still can't close the halves then I suggest adding shims to just the backside of the armor first. If it looks too distorted or there's still not enough room afterwards you may need to add to the front also. 

 

Hope this helps 

[shnar]

I'm having the same problem with the thigh pieces. Like a 3 inch shim at least I think I'll need. Lesigh. I'm not sure how to shim it though? I threw all my excess pieces away. Are there good articles on shimming here?

 

-shnar

[shnar]

Oh, and should I trim the interior edges of the armor? Like on the bicep pieces? (I did, so I hope that's okay, but my leg is still too thick)

 

-shnar

[shnar]

Oh, and with that much needing to shim, should I trim the front piece down to 10mm on each side? That will remove a good inch off the armor piece...

 

-shnar