Ukswrath's ANOVOS TK build (stunt)

[TK 22686[TK]]

Tony, I completely missed your post about the hot water modification on this part...as this is currently what I'm working on. 

 

Did you run it under cold water to set...or did you just hold it on the surface until it cools?  I've been wrestling with mine...it looks like they won't bent past a certain point....I had one person on FB tell me that they should be fine where they are at...they'll pull close to he body when everything is attached.  I don't know how accurate that is.

 

 

 

I think the right strap warrants another shot as I see a little bit of sagging that needs to be re-shaped.

Edited May 25, 2016 by E_Palpatine

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Tony, I completely missed your post about the hot water modification on this part...as this is currently what I'm working on. 

 

Did you run it under cold water to set...or did you just hold it on the surface until it cools?  I've been wrestling with mine...it looks like they won't bent past a certain point....I had one person on FB tell me that they should be fine where they are at...they'll pull close to he body when everything is attached.  I don't know how accurate that is.

 

 

 

I think the right strap warrants another shot as I see a little bit of sagging that needs to be re-shaped.

 

Hot water bath is the last resort. As Kalani stated remove the return edge as necessary first. That said the heated plastic will cool by itself however, of course running it under cool water accelerates the process.

[TK 22686[TK]]

I definitely needed to water bath it.  Took the return edges off and worked it for about an hour...but still not happy with it.  I'm about 6'0" and have a 2-3" gap between the Back and Kidney plate without doing this mod.  Wanted to re-try it last night, but too tired and needed a break.  Have a free night tonight so I'll try pressing it against the counter and maybe holding it for a few minutes while it cools.  Probably wouldn't hurt to put an ice pack down on it first to cool the counter down to accelerate the cooling.

 

Also about the shimming of the Ab/Kidney connection.

I left the excess outside of the trim line on my Ab Plate (just took off the return edge from the pull) so it sticks out about an extra inch on either side.  Would I be ok leaving this on and shimming up to it, or do you recommend taking it off and just extending the main shims for the extra length?

Edited May 25, 2016 by E_Palpatine

[ukswrath[Staff]]

I definitely needed to water bath it.  Took the return edges off and worked it for about an hour...but still not happy with it.  I'm about 6'0" and have a 2-3" gap between the Back and Kidney plate without doing this mod.  Wanted to re-try it last night, but too tired and needed a break.  Have a free night tonight so I'll try pressing it against the counter and maybe holding it for a few minutes while it cools.  Probably wouldn't hurt to put an ice pack down on it first to cool the counter down to accelerate the cooling.

 

Also about the shimming of the Ab/Kidney connection.

 

I left the excess outside of the trim line on my Ab Plate (just took off the return edge from the pull) so it sticks out about an extra inch on either side.  Would I be ok leaving this on and shimming up to it, or do you recommend taking it off and just extending the main shims for the extra length?

 

When performing a hot water bath just take your time, distribute the pressure evenly to avoid leaving indents from your hand. 

 

There are several tutorials that illustrate how to shim properly. If I understand you correctly, yes you want remove the beveled edge (section at the end of the kidney where it meets the ab). If you don't I'm not sure you'll be able to install a shim correctly. 

[TK 22686[TK]]

There are several tutorials that illustrate how to shim properly. If I understand you correctly, yes you want remove the beveled edge (section at the end of the kidney where it meets the ab). If you don't I'm not sure you'll be able to install a shim correctly. 

 

Not quite what I was talking about...it's hard to explain it without a picture.  I'll snap one tonight when I get home.  

[kman[TK]]

I definitely needed to water bath it.  Took the return edges off and worked it for about an hour...but still not happy with it.  I'm about 6'0" and have a 2-3" gap between the Back and Kidney plate without doing this mod.  Wanted to re-try it last night, but too tired and needed a break.  Have a free night tonight so I'll try pressing it against the counter and maybe holding it for a few minutes while it cools.  Probably wouldn't hurt to put an ice pack down on it first to cool the counter down to accelerate the cooling.

 

Also about the shimming of the Ab/Kidney connection.

 

I left the excess outside of the trim line on my Ab Plate (just took off the return edge from the pull) so it sticks out about an extra inch on either side.  Would I be ok leaving this on and shimming up to it, or do you recommend taking it off and just extending the main shims for the extra length?

I didn't press the back plate into the counter, I just bent it by hand. If tap water isn't cutting it for some reason, I recommend using an ice water bath to set the new curve. Are you near sea level? I'm wondering if your water isn't hot enough. (I know at least one guy at high altitude who noticed issues with his water temps and realized at his altitude water boils at ~200F instead of 214F so his water wasn't hot enough after he let it cool from active boiling)

 

For shims, you won't be cutting anything off your ab plate. The only trim comes from the Kidney plate. You'll remove the SIDE return edge entirely so the new shim can sit flush up against the actual edge, and have a flat surface behind to glue the "hold plate" (I'm sure there's a better term for that but I need more coffee) into place.

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

It should look like this:

 

 

Then you can iron over and ABS paste the gaps.

 

 

 

It should line up flush similar to this:

 

 

I'm sanding and polishing tonight so I don't have that finished image....yet!

(I'm holding the ab plate a bit high in this pic.)

 

Jim

Edited May 25, 2016 by MoSc0ut

[ukswrath[Staff]]

It should look like this:

 

Then you can iron over and ABS paste the gaps.

 

 

It should line up flush similar to this:

 

 

I'm sanding and polishing tonight so I don't have that finished image....yet!

(I'm holding the ab plate a bit high in this pic.)

 

Jim

 

With the top edge of the kidney and ab aligned 

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Here's a better picture.

 

 

Starting the sanding of my ABS filler now.

 

 

Jim

[TK 22686[TK]]

Thank you for the responses...but I was actually referring to this.  The little section of ABS between the cut line and the return edge from the pull on the Ab plate.  I'm going to assume that it needs to go...but would be convenient if it could just stay.  I left the extra material, because I knew the closure would be tight.

 

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

If you look at the pic I just posted you'll see that the ab should be trimmed straight from top to bottom with no return edge.

 

Here is some more pictures that hopefully will be helpful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Jim

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Everyones ab armor, in theory, should be virtually trimmed the same.

 

If you need extra circumference, because it fits too tight, you add it to the kidney.

 

Here's a pic from the inside of my kidney armor showing the shim I added to give myself a little wiggle room. You figure out how much overall you need to add, divide it in half and add that much to each side using this method.

 

 

I hope this helps.

 

 

Jim

Edited May 26, 2016 by MoSc0ut

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Ab and kidney both look good 

[Construx]

Helmet adjustments

 

I've been trying to remove the over spray with paint thinner and it hasn't been coming off.  Someone suggested acetone, but I'm worried that would damage the helmet.

 

My visor isn't flush with the helmet eye sockets.  There is a gap.  I'd like to get it how you've illustrated.  I'm not changing the brow, so I don't have those drill holes.  What kind of screw would you use and would I simply just replace the screws that are currently in the ears with something longer?  Or is there another easier way to do this?  Thanks.

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Helmet adjustments

 

I've been trying to remove the over spray with paint thinner and it hasn't been coming off. Someone suggested acetone, but I'm worried that would damage the helmet.

 

My visor isn't flush with the helmet eye sockets. There is a gap. I'd like to get it how you've illustrated. I'm not changing the brow, so I don't have those drill holes. What kind of screw would you use and would I simply just replace the screws that are currently in the ears with something longer? Or is there another easier way to do this? Thanks.

No on the acetone! It will melt the ABS! You're much better off using a very fine grit sand paper like 500 down to 1500 or finer in steps then finish up with a plastic polish like Novus.

 

 

Jim M.

[TK 22686[TK]]

You don't even need sand paper. Get mineral Spirits or 91% rubbing alcohol and it will come right off. I used the 91% RA and repainted my whole frown.<br><br>

Stay away from Acetone as you'll melt your frown...and I've never had luck with paint thinner.

[TK 22686[TK]]

.

Edited May 26, 2016 by E_Palpatine

[MoSc0ut[TK]]

Good call. I keep forgetting that most asking for help here have ANOVOS buckets which are a bit thinner than my WTF bucket. Sanding may not be the best idea, unless there are some real stubborn spots.

 

 

Jim

[kman[TK]]

Rubbing alcohol (70% will work, 90% will work faster) or mineral spirits are both safe for any armor, and will remove the paint. Just takes a little elbow grease and you won't have to worry about damaging anything with sanding.

[Construx]

Thanks for the rubbing alcohol suggestion!  I'll try that out. 

 

Any suggestions on how to mount the visor closer to the eye sockets?

[kman[TK]]

Thanks for the rubbing alcohol suggestion!  I'll try that out. 

 

Any suggestions on how to mount the visor closer to the eye sockets?

One of the more popular options is to cut the big lens into two individual ones, shape them more closely to the eyes, and mount them in.

 

That said, many prefer to have it slightly away from the eye holes for better airflow. (you can still separate the lenses, and mount them however far you want, of course)

 

Edited May 27, 2016 by kman

[P0LLI]

Hi,

what a great work. Thank you for the good work.

 

Best regards

[TK 22686[TK]]

What I did was get inside the bucket with some sandpaper...and I sanded the extra material on the inside of the eyes down a bit (not too much, just enough to round them).  Then I "walk" the lens as close to the eyes as I can.  I center it, then move each side forward a bit until it's even and the lens is touching the ABS.  I do have a little bit of a gap, but like Kman said, it helps with airflow.

[gromitsdad[TK]]

Quick question regarding fitting the shins.  I've marked them twice in the back; once without boots and once with boots on.  How are most people fitting them?  There is a huge difference (with me at least) between the two.  I've got skinny ankles and calves on the larger size.  I noticed that in Tony's section about this subject he fitted his to his ankle.  Would that not leave a gap in the back when you slip them over the boots?

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated!!  Thank you!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Quick question regarding fitting the shins.  I've marked them twice in the back; once without boots and once with boots on.  How are most people fitting them?  There is a huge difference (with me at least) between the two.  I've got skinny ankles and calves on the larger size.  I noticed that in Tony's section about this subject he fitted his to his ankle.  Would that not leave a gap in the back when you slip them over the boots?

 

Any suggestions would be appreciated!!  Thank you!

 

Hey Chris, during the preliminary fitment and build I almost always add 1/2" clearance between the body and the armor. This technique seems to help when fitting items like the undersuit, gloves, boots, etc. 

 

Hope this helps