The Ep. VII Blaster you've been waiting for... (Limited Run)

[hestonkent]

 

 

Hey Heston, just to let you know that I'm now totally fine if you want to use my hollow version of both hengstler and magazine. I'm working on an update now, but should be online today of tomorrow if you want to have a look.

 

I greatly appreciate the offer Germain! I however am custom fitting this for an arduino Uno plus several other electronic (and possibly mechanical?) components, so the files I currently have work just fine. 

[hestonkent]

Update as of 1/30/15:

 

Made some revisions on the blaster, much thanks to 375adam and others for suggesting revisions that made it on this iteration. 

 

List of changes: Blaster shortened to proper proportions (details on this one down below), silver paint changed to a much better and reflective/chrome looking paint, scope and scope mount moved back to the proper area, rear of scope rail changed to grey/chrome, black added to the scope caps, and metal side holster panel changed to the new paint. 

 

Here's some pics! 

 

 

 

 

375Adam pointed out that the scope in the prior iteration was far too long, and sent me an image comparing that to a screen prop: 

 

I am not sure if Germain updated this scope to the proper length, but I went ahead and did it myself. It should now be proportional to that of the screen-used blaster. 

 

Feedback appreciated! There are two 501st/FISD members that will be getting their blasters shipped monday with this iteration (edit: they are etsy customers). If Germain has no objections, the blaster seen in the photos is his and I will be shipping that one Monday as well! I should have some nicer pictures taken tomorrow, sun went down by the time I got things finalized so the lighting is terrible outside. 

Edited January 31, 2016 by hestonkent

[plushie[TK]]

Again, beautiful work! Looking forward to having my own!

[TK5492[TK]]

Just keeps getting better. These little things still make a huge difference.

[sylverbard[TK]]

Ordered one. Sadly I'm number 27 :-(

[hestonkent]

Ordered one. Sadly I'm number 27 :-(

That's just your invoice number, I don't use my website for many transactions (pretty much all of them are done on etsy) so the invoice numbers are low. You made it in the first 20! 

[sylverbard[TK]]

Yay!

[375adam]

Thanks Heston! The changes look amazing

[Griffin-X[TK]]

Very nice Heston.

 

In looking at the detailed pics, it appears that you can see the 3D "zipper" print lines on many parts (scope, body, barrel, etc.). Are you using XTC-3D or some other surface finishing technique? Or does the blaster look like a 3D printed model (up close)? I ask, because of the amount of time I'm putting into mine to eliminate this effect. I love 3D prints, but PLA models look like, well 3D printed parts.

 

The 501st troops (at least many of us) like detail and authenticity, so that blasters and armor "resemble" their onscreen counterparts, and not a model or toy.

 

Again, I totally love what you are doing and these are super affordable props. You have mad skills my friend! Keep up the great work!

[hestonkent]

In looking at the detailed pics, it appears that you can see the 3D "zipper" print lines on many parts (scope, body, barrel, etc.). Are you using XTC-3D or some other surface finishing technique? Or does the blaster look like a 3D printed model (up close)? I ask, because of the amount of time I'm putting into mine to eliminate this effect. I love 3D prints, but PLA models look like, well 3D printed parts.

XTC-3D is really useless, to be honest. Tried some of it back when it first came out, it doesn't do anything but make the print glossy and won't do anything to mitigate the layer lines, horizontal solid infill lines or Z axis layer artifacts. It merely provides a glossy coat, which is something you can do with a can of krylon crystal clear for a tenth of the price, after sanding the part down. That XTC stuff is just a gimmick. If you want the real effect, print with ABS and give the parts an acetone vapor bath. It's dangerous and time consuming, but that's the only way to get the look you're going for since it melts the layers together on the outside to form a true solid outer shell. 

 

Printing with ABS for me is not an option, unfortunately, since the smell triggers headaches and is a major health hazard without expensive HEPA filter setups. This is especially the case when you have to frequently walk in an office with 7 or more printers running at once... 

 

The pictures up above are really close up to the part so I could get the shots of the revisions made on the scope, which is why you noticed the layers - those lines really aren't visible if you're just holding it at arms level or viewing it from someone else holding it. There's just some things you can't change about 3D printing, and that's definitely one of them. 

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

375Adam pointed out that the scope in the prior iteration was far too long, and sent me an image comparing that to a screen prop: 

 

I am not sure if Germain updated this scope to the proper length, but I went ahead and did it myself. It should now be proportional to that of the screen-used blaster. 

I agree my scope is a little too long. I wanted to adress that too, but keep forgetting. However, on this version of the blaster, the biggest issue is the scope mount being mounted far too forward. But I see you corrected that too, so good job!

 

And yes, I can see shallow print lines too. But honestly I find them very discret and I'm not bothered by them at all.

[Griffin-X[TK]]

XTC-3D is really useless, to be honest. Tried some of it back when it first came out, it doesn't do anything but make the print glossy and won't do anything to mitigate the layer lines, horizontal solid infill lines or Z axis layer artifacts. It merely provides a glossy coat, which is something you can do with a can of krylon crystal clear for a tenth of the price, after sanding the part down. That XTC stuff is just a gimmick. If you want the real effect, print with ABS and give the parts an acetone vapor bath. It's dangerous and time consuming, but that's the only way to get the look you're going for since it melts the layers together on the outside to form a true solid outer shell.

 

Printing with ABS for me is not an option, unfortunately, since the smell triggers headaches and is a major health hazard without expensive HEPA filter setups. This is especially the case when you have to frequently walk in an office with 7 or more printers running at once...

 

The pictures up above are really close up to the part so I could get the shots of the revisions made on the scope, which is why you noticed the layers - those lines really aren't visible if you're just holding it at arms level or viewing it from someone else holding it. There's just some things you can't change about 3D printing, and that's definitely one of them.

Again, not being critical but you asked for feedback. XTC-3D works very well these days and if done correctly, can eliminate the "zipper" effect. It's tricky stuff though. Check out my WIP thread as I have eliminated 95% of the lines with it. I also used the "acetone" bath trick on the smaller parts and eliminated the lines easily (28 seconds tops). And, the filament is PLA.

 

But, both of these techniques are super time consuming and require lots of sanding and some contour filler (Testor's). The XTC-3D require the most to prepare it for painting. I'd prefer not to use it, that stuff stinks really bad, too!

 

I love what you are doing and the product looks sweet. Best of luck and thanks for offering these up!

Edited January 31, 2016 by Griffin-X

[chosendragon]

also, I used the heat from a hairdryer to finely alter/move and give certain pieces some play - to fit better instead of sanding them down when necessary.

 

I guess you wouldn't want to leave these babies in a car on a hot summer day

 

 

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[sylverbard[TK]]

Wait what? It's not thermalset plastic?

[Skaught[TK]]

Paid for a non-stock blaster. Thanks!

 

Scott Will

[hestonkent]

Wait what? It's not thermalset plastic?

Not sure what "thermalset plastic" is, it is printed in PLA plastic. 

 

Paid for a non-stock blaster. Thanks!

 

Scott Will

 

Thanks a bunch!  

[sylverbard[TK]]

Thermalset ...basically it is heated once, formed, and once it cools has a much higher melting point. I ways presumed 3d printers used this .

[hestonkent]

Thermalset ...basically it is heated once, formed, and once it cools has a much higher melting point. I ways presumed 3d printers used this .

Hmm, google isn't helping me much there. 

 

A thin sheet of PLA will start to bend at 80C, and the filament melts at about 180-200C depending on the type you use. I think it's safe to say you would probably have to leave it in a hot car in the middle of an arizona summer for a very long time, at peak sunlight hours, to get the parts to bend even a little bit considering how thick and large most of them are. 

 

As an example: I ride motorcycles and routinely use a gopro mount that I 3D printed in PLA, and this is in the hot Texas summer sun too, and have never had any issues with the durability or having it melt at all. This is a tiny gopro mount, vs a full size stormtrooper blaster. Would take a lot of sun to melt something like that.  

[sylverbard[TK]]

Oh. It's likely thermo set plastic. Like gopro mounts, knife handles, some Ikea brackets. The car comment worried me because sometimes I'm forced to leave stuff in the car. I guess as long as I don't bend stuff. I left my health card and sin card standing on end in a cupholder one day and they...melted a little.

[sylverbard[TK]]

Think bakelite.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosetting_polymer

[Griffin-X[TK]]

I can attest to how bloody HOT it gets in Texas, especially where Heston rides! This stuff is tough and won't bend or warp, unless you hold a heat gun on it.

[chosendragon]

Oh. It's likely thermo set plastic. Like gopro mounts, knife handles, some Ikea brackets. The car comment worried me because sometimes I'm forced to leave stuff in the car. I guess as long as I don't bend stuff. I left my health card and sin card standing on end in a cupholder one day and they...melted a little.

didn't mean to scare you, lol. but it it's durable to an extent. I was warming some pieces and bent it a little, but not too much since I could snap it.

I also dremeled some internal pieces and it melted around my dremel attachment and it was hard to get off since it cooled pretty quick once I stopped and it hardened, lol.

 

 

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[sylverbard[TK]]

Dremels and plastic...are scary. A local genius puts printer filament into his rotary tool and spins it fast..basically becomes a plastic welder.

[hestonkent]

Dremels and plastic...are scary. A local genius puts printer filament into his rotary tool and spins it fast..basically becomes a plastic welder.

I use a dremel frequently when sanding the plastic after cleaning supports off of the prints. If you aren't careful you can hit infill and have a bad time, for sure. Friction heat is no joke.  

[bjsavage7[TK]]

Just wanted to ask if I made it into the first 20 orders