SlyFox's ANH Stunt Build [*AP]

[Pyrates[TK]]

There's no race - great to hear your progress!

[Darth Havoc[TK]]

Nice kit and slow and steady wins the race   

[SlyFox740[TK]]

I'm definitely not racing to finish it, just a figure of speech. I want to enjoy this process as much as possible anyways, I've always loved making costumes. My only goal is eventually having a completed set of armor that meets approval so I can finally start trooping.

[TK 2759[501st]]

I'm definitely not racing to finish it, just a figure of speech. I want to enjoy this process as much as possible anyways, I've always loved making costumes. My only goal is eventually having a completed set of armor that meets approval so I can finally start trooping.

Sounds like you've got a good plan! Looking forward to pictures of your progress!

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Well I decided I should probably upload some pictures and update everyone on my current progress. I've also been keeping really busy with my blaster build as well lately so it's been a balancing act between this and that, but variety is always a good thing with these big projects. Here are some shots of my two-piece under suit, no logos or zippers anywhere on them.

/;lmil;jiljl;i

 

Here are some photos of me wearing my new Neckseal from Veedox, these are the absolute best neckseals that money can buy IMHO. They are beautifully tailored to fit each individual trooper comfortably. My favorite thing about this neckseal is not the quality or durability which is quite impressive, but the glossy looking shine on the ribs; The only part of it we really see, it looks screen accurate and it's absolutely beautiful. I ordered the dickie style neckseal not Hero as I'm building ANH Stunt. Veedox's customer service is top notch too!

 

And here's a photo of me wearing my imperial boots with the under suit.

 

As I said earlier I was going to start with the ABS hand guards just to get used to cutting the plastic, seeing as how I won't actually be using these for my Centurion application which requires Rubber or Latex hand guards. It was easier than I thought to trim, as long as you have the correct tools. There was no major catastrophe trimming the hand guards which helped give me confidence to dive head first into my Big Brown Box. Also TK6093 hosted a local armor party recently which I attended, I got to meet some other troopers both old and new and I learned about trimming and assembly which also helped build confidence in me.

I attached the ABS hand guards to the rubber gloves using adhesive velcro, black on the gloves, white on the guards.

 

Here are the white rubber hand guards I ordered for my Centurion application. I ordered two sets for backup, the top pair is from Karin Sonnenschein they are awesome, solid white silicone rubber, nice and thick, perfect color. The bottom pair are from the same guy that made the rest of my armor; AP (Authentic Props) these are also pretty awesome, solid white rubber, very clean castings. they are the exact same size as the original ABS handguards where as Karin's are a little smaller.

 

These Thermal Detonator Clips are also from AP (Authentic Props), good quality clips however they did not come with the correct Black Slotted Pan Head Machine Screws. I had to purchase those separately as the AP clips came with inaccurate Square or (Robertson) black coated dome head screws (not shown).

Here are the Black Slotted Pan Head machine Screws I bought, unlike the ones that came with the Thermal Detonator clips from AP these are not coated. They are made of a Black Oxide Steel so no paint or coating is needed and no chipping to worry about. I have way more than I need for my build so I may end up posting a sales thread for all these.

 

Here's a photo of my TrooperBay order as it arrived; S-trim, Paint Stencils for Helmet and Ab buttons, Frown Mesh, Dark Green Lens Material.

 

Here is a photo of my Canvas Belt from AP (Authentic Props), these are great quality!

 

Here's a photo of the inner drop boxes I ordered from Kevin at KW Designs, they fit inside the AP drop boxes perfectly! They're a pretty close color match too, not that anyone will ever really see them. The AP kit already comes with inner drop boxes included however for some reason or another they're a bit small and don't fit the outer drop boxes as well as these ones do.

 

I have some photos of actual armor assembly I just have to upload them so I will be posting another update in the very near future. Hope you enjoyed this for the time being and stay tuned for more to come soon. Please don't hesitate to leave a comment, I look forward to your feedback.

Edited June 6, 2016 by SlyFox740

[Haso[TK]]

Great stuff mate. Looking forward to seeing more of this build.

 

Sent from my SM-J100Y using Tapatalk

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Biceps

 

I have been using the FSID Photo Reference Gallery to make all the cuts on my armor, I noticed some of the suits had return edges in certain places while others did not, so the consistency is not exact with the suits used on screen, I guess some of these small things are personal preference and/or cut to fit the individual trooper as the CRL does not specify requirements in most of these areas other than the wrist edge of the forearm which is a good thing.

After rough trimming the biceps to the mold lines I made a 7.5mm wide marking strip using a scrap piece of ABS. This is exactly half the width of the 15mm cover strips that will hold the bicep halves together. I just held my marking strip flat against the inside of the ridges and marked my center cut lines.

Center cut line 7.5mm from the edge of the ridge.

After rough trimming, the bicep halves were plenty flat enough to use a ruler and a razor blade for the score and snap method.

After cutting, I then repeated these steps for the other half of the bicep.

Both halves line up really well with little to no gap whatsoever.

After cutting both bicep halves to the center line it was time to make some 15mm wide cover strips for arm pieces. Using my steel ruler I measured carefully and was able to get three long 15mm strips from one of the included exrta ABS pieces. I'm really trying not to waste any extra material with this build as I will be doing both inner and outer cover strips, inner cover strips are not required but I like the extra durability.

Then I used my adjustable square and clamped it to the table on top of the ABS cover strip aligned with the first cut line I drew, I should mention I have a 3' square table with 90 degree corners and edges. I then used a heavy duty utility knife with a fresh sharp blade and scored along the lines carefully. I read it's better to make several cuts with light pressure than it is to push really hard and make one deep cut so that is what I did. I used the score and snap method and It turned out pretty well, after scoring the cuts bend and snap fairly easily with nice clean straight edges thanks to the steel ruler and square.

Then I cut two 15mm inner cover strips to size, one for each side of the bicep. Then I sanded the edges of the cover strips with 180 grit sponge block. I sanded each surface with 220 grit sandpaper before gluing with clear E-6000. I used Popsicle sticks wrapped in painter's tape to prevent the clamps from marking up my armor.

Then I repeated all these same steps on the bicep for the other arm. Making sure to glue the 2 inner cover strips on opposite sides of the bicep or else you could end up with two inner cover strips on the same side when you go to put the two halves together.

After waiting 24 hours for the inner cover strips to cure it was time to join the two halves together, only one edge first because gluing both sides at once could be a pretty tricky balancing act. This way you can align it perfectly, tape, and clamp it without worrying about the other side as it wants to flex apart from the opposite side being joined.

After the E-6000 cured on that side I removed the clamps, magnets, and tape. then cleaned off the excess glue. Here you can see how the opposite back side flexes apart once this front side is joined. This can be counteracted with a hot water bath or a heat gun but that's not really necessary here in my opinion. The tape, clamps and magnets hold just fine until the glue dries then the two halves will eventually conform over time.

Then I glued and joined the other half using the same technique with tape, clamps, and magnets to hold it in place while it cured.

I then repeated all these same steps on the bicep for the other arm and waited 24 hours to cure. This photo shows both biceps with completed inner cover strips but no outer cover strips yet.

The next step was to mask the outside of the armor for sanding in order to prep for gluing. I placed one piece of painter's tape exactly 7.5mm on either side of the center cut line then sanded only the exposed area with 220 grit sandpaper. I repeated this technique with all other seams.

After cutting 4 outer cover strips to size I sanded one side of each of them to prep for gluing. Then using the same method of applying tape to hold the cover strips in place first, then immediately clamping the outer edges and then putting magnets along the rest of the cover strips to hold while they cure.

And after waiting 24 hours my biceps were finally done, complete with both inner and outer cover strips. Using the FSID Photo Reference Gallery I determined that the bottom of the armpit opening is not cut straight across but follows along the contour of the armor and in some cases even has no return edge at all!

They turned out good in my opinion, they have perfect 15mm cover strips all around and they fit me perfect! They feel really sturdy and structurally solid with the added inner cover strips. Some people think their armor feels kinda flimsy and thin when they first get it in the box, I know assembling it obviously adds lots of rigidity but somehow assembling it actually makes it feel thicker too. I can't really explain that maybe its just the added cover strip in the butt joint area, I don't really know why but it just feels thicker and stronger now.

 

UPDATE: Since completing and test fitting my armor I have added the optional bicep hooks, some armor in the film had this and some did not. Harrison Ford's suit had them if you look at Han-Solo in his Stormtrooper disguise. They are meant to hook onto the elastic strap inside the bottom of the shoulder bell. I believe these may have been meant for taller troopers to prevent the biceps from popping out under the shoulder bells. But I could be wrong, they also prevent the bottom of the biceps from swaying outwards if you're skinny. To make these I simply marked the bends I wanted to make on a 25mm strip of ABS, then using the edge of a heat sealing iron I heated the surface of the plastic along each line I drew until I could bend and shape it into a hook.

Edited February 25, 2017 by SlyFox740

[Addertime[TK]]

Lookin' good! 

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Forearms

 

After finishing the Biceps it was time to assemble the Forearms, I basically used the exact same procedure again except this time I used the Lexan Scissors to cut the center line instead of a ruler & razor blade due to the curves in the armor. First I held my 7.5mm marking strip flat against the inside ridges to draw the center lines, then cut using Lexan Scissors, then I cut more 15mm inner cover strips to size, sanded and glued them to inside again like so. Making sure to glue each one on opposite sides so the two halves will fit together after. To hold it in place while the glue dried I used clamps with pop-sicle sticks wrapped in painter tape to protect the surface, and some rare earth magnets.

After the inner cover strips cured for 24 hours I joined the two halves together using tape, clamps and rare earth magnets. First along one side of the Forearm only as the opposite side will pull apart when joining this side together. This allows me to align the each seam line perfectly.

 As you can see below after joining one side the opposite side pulls apart much more on the forearms than they did on the biceps.

When trimming this armor for the butt-joint assembly method the two forearm halves won't exactly "fit" together at first. By this I mean the edges of the armor along the seam lines don't really align very flat when you put the two halves together. That's right where the coverstrip goes on the ridge so it will need to be flat, both edges of each half must align flush in order for the covesrtrip to sit flat.

Because of this large gap I actually wait 48 hours before attempting to close the other side. If you read the back of the E-6000 tube it says it may take up to 48 hours to fully harden so that's how long I wait, after that I remove the clamps and magnets but leave the tape and even add more tape to help hold it while I close the other side. I then use the same method I used on the biceps to close the other side; first painter's tape, then immediately apply clamps to the outer edges, and rare earth magnets along the inner cover strips. This will be enough to hold the armor in place perfectly while the E-6000 cures. Again for the forearms specifically I waited a full 48 hours before removing the tape, clamps, and magnets.

48 hours later; here are some photos of the forearms complete with inner cover strips but no outer cover strips yet.

Just like the biceps I used painter's tape to mask and prep the area for sanding before gluing the outer cover strips. Then again I used painter's tape to hold the outer cover strips in place temporarily while I applied the clamps and magnets.

Then I repeated these steps for the rest of the outer cover strips on both forearms. They turned out really good and they fit me perfect!

Forearms complete with both inner and outer cover strips.

Edited June 6, 2016 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Shoulder Bells

 

There wasn't much to the shoulder bells. Other than the fact that I tried to trim as little off of these as possible. They are basically supposed to touch the shoulder straps that connect the chest and back so I trimmed as little as possible. Right up to the point before the Shoulder Bells start to "flare out" at the mold lines. Then I sanded all the edges using 180 grit sponge block. I also kept the small return edge at the bottom of the Shoulder Bells, some of the suits used on screen had these return edges and some did not.

Here you can see the return edge inside the bottom of the shoulder bell.

Edited June 6, 2016 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

 uhm...  Am I doing okay so far?, yes? no? Halt!? Move Along?...

[TK 2759[501st]]

uhm... Am I doing okay so far?, yes? no? Halt!? Move Along?...

Looking good so far, in my eyes... Keep going lol

[Sentry71[TK]]

You're right on track. 

 

My only suggestion would be on the forearms, to follow the line of the outer covers strips on the last photo you posted, and trim off the bit sticking out from the right on each. It is a minor detail that may help once everything is assembled.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Okay yes that part is uncomfortable, it jabs me in the arm a bit. I was just making all my cuts according to screen used armor from the FSID Photo Reference Gallery.

I realize some of these details are personal preference and not required for approval, I will most likely end up cutting that little corner off as it already annoys me when wearing the forearms, let alone once everything is assembled. I noticed many other troopers trim this off too.

[Pyrates[TK]]

Great work on going the extra mile for accuracy! You have to be able to troop for 6-8 hours so comfort is key as well.

 

What's annoying now could turn into one nasty armor bite later.

 

Beautiful progress mate - keep going Whoo-Wahhh!

[pewpewpew[TK]]

Hey Henry, how wide are your strips for your forearms? 15mm? Do you find the forearms difficult to slip off and on? Are you skinny or bigger in the forearm area? Sorry for all the questions. I'm a bit indecisive in my own measurements, and things seem rather tight.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Hey Henry, how wide are your strips for your forearms? 15mm? Do you find the forearms difficult to slip off and on? Are you skinny or bigger in the forearm area? Sorry for all the questions. I'm a bit indecisive in my own measurements, and things seem rather tight.

Hey Travis, yes my forearm cover strips are 15mm exactly, that is what is recommended for screen accuracy but you can vary from this slightly if required. My forearms are a little bit tight going on and off but I wouldn't say "difficult" by any means. It's only a bit tight when going over the hand but it fits just fine after that, not too snug. I find if you twist the forearm just a certain way as it goes over the hand it helps make it easier. I can definitely see why the return edge on the wrists were completely trimmed off in the film; the actors wouldn't have been able to get them on otherwise. That being said the actors that were cast as stormtroopers were all required to be fairly skinny. I'm fit in the arms but a slender guy so I don't really have any issues getting the forearms on, I have big hands but really just long with skinny wrists and also long arms. I know getting the forearms on is a common issue for bigger troopers and I believe if it's needed people usually just use wider cover strips but still try to keep them as close to the original as possible.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

I'm not sure how much it would help but you could also avoid using inner cover strips on the forearms to save a few millimetres of space inside. Or if it's just your hand not fitting through you could still use inner cover strips but don't extend them all the way to the inside edge of the wrist. Just cut them off by a few inches, inner cover strips are not even required so there's really no rules concerning length.

Edited June 22, 2016 by SlyFox740

[pewpewpew[TK]]

That's really good advice thanks. I'm probably going to have to get rid of all the return edges, round them out and they should fit. Problem is I've already cut most of one forearm to make the 15mm strips the desired goal. Whoops! Measure once cut twice, right?<br><br>

Just got some magnets to get gluing, so we will see how this goes.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

I purchased this Sterilite 40 Gal. / 151 L industrial tote from Wal-Mart, great quality for a great price! My kit isn't fully assembled yet but another trooper with the AP kit was able to fit it all inside this bin with the bucket, though I may still get a helmet bag for that. It fits in the back of my car no problem so this should suffice for trooping.

 

I also have some more photos of armor assembly that I will be uploading soon, shins up next.

[Pyrates[TK]]

Looking forward to your update brother !

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Shins

 

Let's do this, first the rough trimming .

When rough trimming I just cut the pieces to the mold lines. 

After trimming the shin pieces to the mold lines I used my trusty 10mm wide marking strip to locate and draw the centre cut lines.

Centre cut lines drawn on all inside edges.

Then I measured and cut some 20mm cover strips using a steel ruler clamped to the table (see post #32 for how I do this again).

First I glued the inner cover strip to one half of the shin at the front. 

After waiting 24 hours for the glue to dry I joined the other half using same method as the arm parts; first tape to keep it in place, then clamps and magnets to hold it nice and tight while the E-6000 cures.

After waiting another 24 hours to cure the two halves of the shins are joined with inner cover strips only.

Then I prepare for outer cover strips by taping off the area to be sanded for gluing. Scuffing up the surface of the smooth ABS plastic greatly increases the strength of glue adhesion. Similar to using ABS cement with plumbing pipes.

After scuffing up both the ridges on the shins and the back of the outer strips it's time to glue them on. Using the same method once again; Painter's Tape to hold in place temporarily, then Clamps, then Magnets. Then wait 24 hours again... E-6000 is time consuming but the great thing about it is that it is strong but forgivable, if you make a mistake gluing or your cover strips move off centre while drying it's not completely permanent and it can still be removed after it dries with little to no damage to the plastic. This is really great for inexperienced builders!

Left and right shins complete with both inner and outer cover strips.

Now the time has come for the dreaded Sniper Knee Plate, I've heard and read many stories about gluing this on the shin and how difficult it can be. It doesn't really line up or "fit" the shin all that well and there's not much surface area to glue it onto. So it's a bit of a challenge to say the least. I ended up using 2 "C" clamps, 2 spring clamps and some tape to hold it place while gluing.

After gluing.

Close up profile views of the sniper knee plate installed on the left shin. I feel happy with this, the ridges and knee plate are aligned well.

Here is the back of the shins, the back outer cover strip is exactly 25mm wide as per requirement. When gluing the 25mm outer cover strips to the back of your shins be sure to glue them to the outer half of the shin not the inner half. The velcro seams should face inwards towards each other not outwards.

 

Shins Completed. 

 

Please feel free to comment or critique my work. I enjoy reading feedback and I appreciate any and all help I can get.

Thanks in advance

Edited July 14, 2016 by SlyFox740

[TK 2759[501st]]

Looking good, hope that sniper plate didn't give too much trouble.

[Pyrates[TK]]

Beautiful work mate - Git'r'done!!!

[Strength]

I remember my build like it was last month...cuz it was!

 

Awesome! Take your time, it's best to think before you cut it. Also, and very important, is to remember that the original movie pieces for literally had me. So imperfections and small mistakes are totally ok.

They are not supposed to look perfect.

 

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Edited July 13, 2016 by Strength