SlyFox's ANH Stunt Build [*AP]

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Great detail work

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Helmet

The original screen used helmets had a single sheet of thin green acetate film for both eye lenses that was mounted to the ear screws. I want something thicker and dark green for my helmet to help hide my face. Also I would like a more ideal way to mount the lenses inside the mask which allows for easier removal/replacement. I found thick dark lens material at Trooperbay.com; https://trooperbay.com/dark-green-lens-material
Before trimming anything or applying any Plasti-Dip or paint I started by preparing screw sockets for the lenses. To do this I used JB PlasticWeld and some small T-Nuts/Furniture Nuts. The ones I used are 8/32 thread x 9/32" and they seem to be perfect size depth and width to go around the perimeter of the eye sockets inside the mask.
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac99/henrybartsch341/image_zpskbb1dxv8.jpeg
The first step is to prepare the surface for the PlasticWeld by sanding/scuffing the areas where the screw holes will go. Many people use 3 or 4 screws per lens but too many screws actually doesn't help, the key in is the placement of the screws. If done correctly only two screws per lens are required and you will end up with a nice tight seam all the way around the lenses and the eye holes inside your mask. With the mask face down looking at the curve of the lens I place one screw at the lowest possible point both directly above and below the eye socket. This will pull the flexible lenses down to these low points making a nice tight seam between the lens and mask.
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac99/henrybartsch341/image_zpsf7ksk5az.jpeg
The Mic Tip area is pretty thin on these stormtrooper helmets so I reinforced it with some PlaticWeld before drilling out the holes to mount the Hovi-Mix Pa2 aerators.
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac99/henrybartsch341/image_zpsubpili04.jpeg
I've read that it's much easier to paint or Plasti-Dip the inside of your helmet before trimming than it is to mask the eyes and teeth, so that's what I did next.
I start by lightly scuffing the inside surface of the mask and dome with sandpaper, then applying the Plasti-Dip according to the directions.
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac99/henrybartsch341/image_zpso3r6746r.jpeg

Assembling the helmet is quite easy, the hard part was cutting out the eyes and teeth and trimming the ears. I started by very carefully drilling small holes around the perimeter of the eyes and each of the teeth, then I connect the dots using a pair of curved lexan scissors. Last I use a file set to get the final shape for the eyes and teeth. There are also 4 holes on either side of the mask and dome that must be drilled out, these are marked with small dimples.
For the ears I just followed the mold lines as best as I could and they turned out well.
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac99/henrybartsch341/image_zpsluowmcqs.jpeg
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac99/henrybartsch341/image_zpshkyh4gvc.jpeg
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac99/henrybartsch341/image_zpsrjxsg2nk.jpeg
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac99/henrybartsch341/image_zps72dq9txh.jpeg
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac99/henrybartsch341/image_zpsuldh721l.jpeg
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac99/henrybartsch341/image_zpsnumtuipv.jpeg
I ended up removing more return edge from the eyes after these photos were taken, I suggest taking your time with this. Use photos of screen used helmets for reference and ask someone experienced for a second opinion about the amount of return edge to leave remaining in the eyes.

For level 3 Centurion the seal around the neck opening must be an "S-trim" type profile, I have replaced the U-trim included with the AP kit with S-trim from Trooperbay.com https://trooperbay.com/trooper-helmet-s-neck-trim

I have also replaced these included AP Mic Tips with more accurate 3-piece replicas from SWPropMan which are no longer available.
Below is a comparison photo of average resin cast mic tips on the left, and the plastic ones from Robert on the right. Notice the vent slits in the plastic mic tips are actually open just like the real thing, that's accurate! Notice the precise detail in the writing of the words (Hovi-Mix Pa2) is actually legible just like the real thing, that's accurate! The walls on these plastic mic tips are also thinner exactly like the real thing, the resin versions have thick walls which is not accurate. The real Hovi mic tips don't exist anymore but they were originally made of plastic, these too are made of genuine plastic. Only the original Hovi tips were white plastic painted black, instead these are cast in black plastic so no is paint is needed. However these are probably the absolute closest thing available to a set of real Hovi-Mix Pa2 tips.
http://i889.photobucket.com/albums/ac99/henrybartsch341/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsjwupegc7.jpeg
These Mic tips are made up of several different pieces to achieve the most accurate appearance possible. Once they're assembled they look very realistic.


Inside The Helmet, I used adhesive velcro around the frown, and the mesh itself is stitched to sew-on velcro. This provides a very stable solution that is also easily adjustable/removable. The helmet padding is also held in place with adhesive velcro. I still need to install a set of USB powered fans, I heard RC batteries work great but the chargers are not cheap.

 

Edited January 20 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Helmet Painting

Ultimately I decided to hand paint my helmet instead of using decals because that's what they originally did on the screen used helmets in ANH. Decals were not used until ESB.
I used this paint chart, I'm in Canada so the Testors colors are more commonly available than the Humbrol. I opted for the French Blue as I feel it's more accurate and it just looks better, It seems to be the most common choice used among troopers.

Edited December 12, 2016 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Abdominal Button Painting

 

I hand painted the Ab Buttons using Testors 1138 Admiral Grey and 2715 French Blue.

Edited December 12, 2016 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Beautiful work on the kidney notchs brother, and even better to see you up in action - fist bump!!!

Thanks Aaron! I really appreciate that, not sure if anybody else will ever notice them but I'm happy with them and that's all that matters.

 

Coming along well!

Yes I have made lots of progress since my last post, it's just a matter of finding time to upload photos and update the build thread. But I wanted to document the entire process from start to finish just so It's always there to refer back to, and if nothing else just a small keepsake to remember how much fun I had assembling this kit. It really is quite enjoyable if you like these kind of projects.

 

Great detail work

Thank you, very much appreciated!

Edited December 12, 2016 by SlyFox740

[BritBulldog[TK]]

Inside The Helmet, I used adhesive velcro around the frown, and the mesh itself is stitched to sew-on velcro. This provides a very stable solution that is also easily adjustable/removable. The helmet padding is also held in place with adhesive velcro. I still need to install a set of USB powered fans, I heard RC batteries work great but the chargers are not cheap.

 

Definitely go USB for the fans Henry, I got a 20,000mAh battery pack from amazon - after about 6 hours of continuous use trooping powering 2 fans, it's still about 70% capacity. Remind me to show it to you at the next troop so you can see if it or something similar will fit comfortably in your bucket.

[ComradeDave[TK]]

Looking good brother! You're a friggin natural!

[Troopacoola[TK]]

Looking spot on H!

 

Marc