SlyFox's ANH Stunt Build [*AP]

[68Brick[TK]]

Looking good! Have you test fit your shins with your completed cover strips while wearing your black undersuit? If you need extra room, the back/rear coverstrips that cover the closure method can be wider.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Looking good, hope that sniper plate didn't give too much trouble.

Thanks Dan, it wasn't too bad actually but I did have to force the knee plate into position a bit. Apparently Mark has updated this AP kit to have correct leg parts, it did seem easier than what people described with the older AP kits. But I can tell you from personal experience it still doesn't exactly line up with this new kit either. But these suits were originally sculpted by hand which explains all the imperfections and asymmetry in the design, nothing about assembling stormtrooper armor is an exact science really.

 

Beautiful work mate - Git'r'done!!!

Thanks a lot Aaron, I appreciate that! and I'm working diligently away at the thighs now.

 

I remember my build like it was last month...cuz it was!

 

Awesome! Take your time, it's best to think before you cut it. Also, and very important, is to remember that the original movie pieces for literally had me. So imperfections and small mistakes are totally ok.

They are not supposed to look perfect.

 

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Thanks, I'm definitely taking my time on this one. Only one shot at this so I better get it right the first time. And I agree with you, as I said before the very design of these suits doesn't exactly lend itself to perfection or a "flawless" assembly for that matter. Having said that those imperfections and asymmetry is what make stormtroopers look the way they do and I for one wouldn't change it for the world. And I'm willing to bet most fans would agree.

 

Looking good! Have you test fit your shins with your completed cover strips while wearing your black undersuit? If you need extra room, the back/rear coverstrips that cover the closure method can be wider.

Thanks Brad! Yes I have tried them on with the undersuit, they fit over my lower legs no problem. Although I may need to remove a bit more of the return edge at the bottom of the shins to make more room for the tops of my boots to fit inside.

  I've actually read your entire build thread as well as your centurion application. You have the older AP kit where as I have the newer one but still I really like how you assembled yours, you did a great job on that!  It actually helped me make the decision to go with AP. 

Edited July 13, 2016 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Thighs

 

I haven't updated this build thread lately but I have been making some really good progress on my armor. Documenting everything just takes me longer, but It's time to post some photos and update my thread. First I rough trim the thighs to the mold lines.

 

After rough trimming I used a 10mm wide marking strip to locate the center cut lines on the front of the thighs only.

 

After cutting the center lines I glued the inner cover strips to the inside front of the thighs.

After waiting 24 hours I joined each half together using the same method I did for the other limbs. First painters tape, then clamps, then magnets to hold everything nice and tight while the E-6000 cures.

 The result after waiting 24 hours.

There is one thing I did before taking this last photo, I fixed the top of the thighs to be even at the front. I did this by cutting away a bit of the outer half at the top, then I used a heat sealing iron to bend a new return edge that matches up better with the inner half. The reason the AP thighs tops don't match up is because these thighs are actually meant for overlap construction, and when overlapped they actually match up quite nice when you join the two halves together. But since I'm aiming for Centurion approval I have to use the butt-joint & coverstrip construction method. When you do this and cut down the middle both halves will not exactly match up at the center line. To fix this, first I draw a dotted line approximately where I want the new return edge, then using lexan scissors I trim the armor about 7 or 8mm from that line to remove the existing return edge. Then I carefully use a heat sealing iron to bend a new return edge.

And the other thigh.

 

After fixing the tops of the thighs I prepared the thighs for the outer coverstrip by sanding all the surfaces that were being glued.

First I use tape to hold the outer coverstrip in place temporarily, then clamps at the ends and magnets all the way along.

Here you can see the top my thigh return edges complete with outer coverstrips.

 

After the front coverstrips are done it's time to fit and cut the back of the thighs. This is what I came up with for cut lines, I know it looks really uneven at this point but believe it or not I tried my best to keep things as vertically straight, centered and symmetrical as possible. The thighs are molded really uneven and the inside of the right thigh casting is much bigger than the left.

After trimming the cut lines I glued inner coverstrips into the back of the thighs.

After waiting 24 hours I closed the back of the thighs.

After waiting another 24 hours this is the result. I kind of like these photos of all the limbs just before outer coverstrips because they can provide proof for Centurion level construction as far as "butt-joint coverstrip method" goes. As you can see there is little to no gap along the edge seams, although it's fine if there is as these butt-joints will be hidden by outer coverstrips.

Then I prepare the thighs for outer coverstrips by sanding/scuffing only the surface that will be glued, as well as the back of the outer coverstrips.

Using the same method as before, I first apply tape, then clamps at the ends and magnets all along to hold it in place nice and tight while the E-6000 cures.

The result after drying.

I used a similar method as the front to make the back of the thighs match up better at the top.

I attached the thigh pack using screen accurate single cap/speed rivets and painted the head with Testors Gloss White model paint.

 

Thighs Completed.

 

Please don't hesitate to post any comments or critiques. Thanks

[supernaut11[TK]]

Very clean! Good job on the tops. I did the same thing on mine as well. 

[KaiserW]

I like the use of tape to keep excess glue off the armor. Gonna steal that

 

 

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[SlyFox740[TK]]

I like the use of tape to keep excess glue off the armor. Gonna steal that

Actually that tape is just there for sanding/scuffing the area before applying E-6000, If you read it's a preparation step before gluing the coverstrips, it's removed immediately after sanding/scuffing. It just helps prevent scuffing your armor with the sand paper in areas you don't want.

 

I should also mention depending on what kind of painter's tape you're using the chemicals in the E-6000 can make the color pigments bleed onto your white armor a bit and that you don't really want. I would try to keep the glue away from the tape if possible.

[KaiserW]

That's what I get for skim reading.

 

Good to know! I guess it's back to my plastic pick and good elbow grease

 

 

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[SlyFox740[TK]]

I guess it's back to my plastic pick and good elbow grease

I find using a small strip of scrap ABS with a nice sharp 90 degree corner on it works best for removing excess glue. It's the same plastic so It shouldnt scratch your armor as long as you're not gouging into it too hard.

[Troopacoola[TK]]

I find using a small strip of scrap ABS with a nice sharp 90 degree corner on it works best for removing excess glue. It's the same plastic so It shouldnt scratch your armor as long as you're not gouging into it too hard.

That's the same method I use, and then try and pull it off in one strip. Ah removing e6000 is either so satisfying or so frustrating, no middle ground !

 

Marc

[sylverbard[TK]]

I'm curious...are the cover strips just not long enough to cover the seam at the bottom?

[SlyFox740[TK]]

I'm curious...are the cover strips just not long enough to cover the seam at the bottom?

I could have easily made them long enough to cover the seams at the bottom ridge, but that wouldn't be screen accurate at all and would not be Centurion approvable. People often want to do that but it's just not the way it was in the movie, and when they make them that long they end up having to take a razor blade to their armor once they apply for approval, AFTER it's been assembled!

Not this guy, that's a great way to permanently scar your armor.

 

Plus my inner coverstrips extend the full length of the thighs as well as all the other limbs, and that's more than enough strength needed for structural stability. My armor feels really sturdy and strong assembled this way. And as far as external appearance goes, I want it to look like it does in the movie.

Edited October 16, 2016 by SlyFox740

[sylverbard[TK]]

Mine are that way too, but some armours just have bigger gaps at the bottom than others. The anovos kits often look ...ratty...

[68Brick[TK]]

Hey Sly, Did you visit us at FanExpo? I think it was you that said hi. I was suited up in my TK in the Tantive area of the booth.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Hey Sly, Did you visit us at FanExpo? I think it was you that said hi. I was suited up in my TK in the Tantive area of the booth.

 

Yup, that was ME! And I'm so glad that moment was captured on camera. I was dressed as Darth Vader, I know it's not a screen accurate Vader but my TK wasn't done yet and the entire group I went with did a Star Wars theme so I wore this. It's just a Halloween costume I put together like 4 years ago but I'm still kind of proud of it, not to mention this photo will be a memory I will always cherish. It captures one of my very first encounter experiences with the 501st. What an awesome day that was!

So I believe that's you on the left Brad, correct me if I'm wrong. Do you know who the other TK on the right was? I kind of want to know now, Lol. It's a crazy coincidence that it was you Trooping the Tantive area right then and that It was you I said hi to. I had no Idea who it was but I noticed you were almost my height or so which is what I initially questioned you about. Your kit looks so good, you did an excellent job assembling that! That's why I got kind of excited when you told me it was the New AP kit. I don't know if you read my reply to your last comment in this thread on post #52, but your build thread actually helped me make the decision to go with Authentic Props, and I love the new kit. I'm so excited about it!

Which is why I think it's such a coincidence, the first new trooper friend I make is the same guy that helped inspire me to choose the kit that I did.

So glad I got to meet you Brad, I look forward to trooping along side you in the future.

Edited September 7, 2016 by SlyFox740

[68Brick[TK]]

Yes, that's me on the left. I don't know who the other trooper was, there was 34 of us that day. It's always a surreal moment when you make that first 501st contact, and hey, there's a person in there, and they'll talk to you!

 

You're well on your way to creating a great kit. Make sure you read other peoples build threads too, as I needed to tweak some things (as seen in my build, EI, & Cent threads). There are always lessons learned, and great new ideas out there. An example is I just upgraded to USB power for my fans (the latest trend) and it's awesome; long battery life, no AA's, and they're rechargeable. The build is never really done.

 

Keep plugging along and we'll be trooping together soon.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Posterior Armor (Butt Plate)

 

So I figured I should update the build thread with all the progress I've made since my last post. I started on the torso with the smallest piece first; the butt plate. I start by tracing around the mold lines with a china marker/grease pencil.

Then I slowly and carefully trim around edge of the the mold lines taking special care not to cut into the armor piece itself. I find the curved lexan scissors work best for this.

Then I added the required two male snaps into the bottom crotch section of the butt plate. Always use proper snap setting tools for this.

Strapping all the armor together with elastics & snap plates will come later, these snaps are just a standard requirement for this armor piece.

Edited December 17, 2016 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Kidney Plate

 

The next smallest piece of the torso is the Kidney Plate. again I start by tracing around the mold lines with a china marker.

 

 

For the kidney notches I decided to try something new, I wanted return edges in my kidney notches similar to that of RS or TM. To do this I start by leaving some excess plastic behind when trimming the notches out. I ended up taking a little more than this off for less of a return edge but these images show the basic idea.

 

After trimming I made a small snip along the bottom corner edge and folded a small tab upwards using a heat sealing iron. The tabs can later be glued to the inside return edge of the kidney notches with ABS paste or super glue.

 

Then using a heat sealing iron I VERY CAREFULLY bent the extra material inwards to form the return edges in the kidney notches.

  I realize this is all completely unnecessary and that the kidney notches are not even visible under the canvas belt, and furthermore the kidney notch requirements in the CRL have recently been changed and updated. However the kidney notches ARE screen accurate and even though the 22mm x 22mm requirement has changed I still want mine to be screen accurate and I'm still holding myself to those standards seeing as how I started this project that way so that's how I'm going to finish it. Therefore the edge seam on my kidney plate sides will be trimmed exactly 22mm from the kidney notches, I use this measurement to locate and draw my cut lines.

  Having said that if you are a bigger trooper the AP kit will still allow you to reach Centurion level with the new kidney notch CRL; the height of the notch still has to be 22mm but the width can now be as wide as you need so you can trim your side edges as far from the kidney notches as you wish and most importantly the butt plate will still align with the edge of the notches. Mark at AP has recently done an amazing job at adding an extra 3" to both sides of the kidney plate in order to accommodate those bigger troopers out there. This seamless extension works in conjunction with the new Abdominal plate which Mark has also extended by another 3" on both sides, more on that later.

I then added the required 3 split rivets along the left edge of the kidney plate. Be sure to space these evenly along the edge of the armor. Always measure twice and cut/drill once.

I ended up placing my split rivets 65mm apart, but the distance from the edge of the armor is to be exactly 10mm as required in the CRL. The heads of these rivets will be painted gloss white once I begin the painting process on the Helmet and Ab buttons.

On the inside of the armor I decided to make the split rivets into functional snaps. This is not a requirement at all, the split rivets may be purely cosmetic. I just wanted the ability to completely disassemble my kit for storage and traveling purposes. Since mine will be functional I reinforced the edge of the plastic with an additional strip of ABS, I did this mainly because the holes are only to be a short 10mm from the edge and there will be some tension on those snaps. Notice the split rivets inside the male snaps are holding them firmly in place. When using this method the split rivets must be filed down completely flush with the top of the male snap.

Additionally the female snaps on the elastics used for these connections must also be hammered down "extra flat" to work well with the split rivets. If done carefully & correctly this method works great with no issues whatsoever. (NOTE: Using this method for the Kidney/Ab split rivets requires extremely 'short' elastics as the male snaps will essentially be only 20mm apart. This makes for a tight seam line which is actually ideal)

Edited December 17, 2016 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Back Plate

Moving onto the next smallest piece of the torso, the back plate. Again I start by tracing around the mold lines with a china marker, then carefully trimming around the lines.

Usually snap plates are not located & installed until the armor is test fitted to your body, but these shoulder snaps are fairly standard so I went ahead and did these ones first using the double snap method. Keeping the snap plates close to the edge I used clamps and magnets to hold them in place while the E-6000 cures. I used 25mm Nylon webbing in white instead of black for a nice clean look. Many people use ABS snap plates but I find the Nylon webbing conforms better to the curves of the inner armor for a stronger bond. If you decide to go with webbing use Nylon not Polypropylene, It's a much better option to use for snap plates.

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Chest Plate

 

Next I started on the chest plate, when tracing the mold lines with a China marker I noticed there are not really any mold lines present in the arm openings of the chest plate.

This is a Hero suit not Stunt but it's still a good reference for the correct amount of return edge in the arm openings on the chest plate.

I used a heat gun to bend the shoulder bridges into shape until they form comfortably over my shoulders. When trimming these AP shoulder bridges out just be sure to leave as much excess as possible, I find cutting them out from the back with a utility knife or xacto blade helps conserve the most material around the AP shoulder bridges. There's really not much to work with, but in order to be accurate there's supposed to be a small lip remaining on the edge of these shoulder bridges.

Then I did some measuring and glued them to the chest plate using E-6000 as evenly as possible, bearing in mind that this entire suit is far from symmetrical due to the original hand sculpted design.

I also glued the double snap plates into the chest plate in the same fasion as the back plate.

Edited December 10, 2016 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Abdominal Plate

The mold lines are fairly defined on the AP except for the side seams which Mark at AP has done an amazing job at extending by 3" on both sides for those bigger troopers out there. But in order to be screen accurate size those extra three inches must be trimmed off, however if you don't fit into screen accurate size armor you can still reach Centurion level. The CRL allows for the Ab plate to be as wide as you need, although removing anything less than 3" would not be screen accurate size.

Here's a photo of the Abdimonal plate before I removed the extra 3".

After removing the extra 3" of ABS I located and drilled the holes for the three required split rivets on left side. It is important that these three rivets are spaced evenly and align with the other three rivets on the kidney plate. The heads of the rivets wil be painted gloss white later in the build.

Again these split rivets do not have to be functional but as I said before mine will be, so I reinforced the edge of the abdominal plate the same way I did with the kidney plate.

After fastening the split rivets I filed them down to be flush with the top of the male snaps, and the female snaps will also need to be hammered "extra flat" with the snap setting tool.

As per the CRL a single male snap is required in the upper right corner of the abdominal plate.

It does not have to be functional, it may be purely cosmetic. However I will be making mine a functional snap so I have reinforced the plastic again here with a thick piece of ABS.

As per the CRL a single split rivet is required in the lower cod piece, this rivet DOES NOT get painted gloss white! It is to remain unfinished.

This rivet does not have to be functional, it may be purely cosmetic. Mine will be functional so I have used it to fasten a male snap to the inside of the cod piece.

I very carefully trimmed my Ab buttons, sanded the edges to size and glued them in place. There should be a small lip remaining around the edge of the center ab buttons.

The Ab buttons will be painted later in the build, also there is some additional harware required to snap the belt on to this abdominal plate but that can't be installed until after the belt is assembled.

Edited December 11, 2016 by SlyFox740

[Pyrates[TK]]

Beautiful work on the kidney notchs brother, and even better to see you up in action - fist bump!!!

 

 

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Edited December 10, 2016 by Pyrates

[Haso[TK]]

Coming along well!

 

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[SlyFox740[TK]]

Belt & Drop Boxes

 

Next I trim and assemble the belt and drop boxes. I attached the Canvas belt to the ABS using Chicago screws so that it can be removed for washing. I also used Chicago screws to attach the leather holster, for ANH Stunt belts only two lower rivets are to be used to attach the holster according to the CRL, as opposed to hero belts which require 4 rivets. The corners of the belt are approximately an 11mm cut at 45 degrees, which should make the side edges about 3" wide matching the canvas belt.

I attached the Drop Boxes using 25mm white elastic and single cap rivets/speed rivets like the originals, there is to be little to no gap between the belt and drop boxes.

The inner drop boxes are held in place with velcro. I also taped the ends of the elastic down with white tape similar to that of the original RS suit as seen below.

I've placed some felt on the back of the Chicago screws to prevent from scratching the abdominal plate. I use regular Line 24 snaps to attach my belt to the abdominal plate, this is fairly common in the 501st now. The original snaps are still available but I feel this will hold it on a little better which is ideal for trooping.

After the belt is completed the male snaps can be installed into the abdominal plate, to do this I simply use the china marker to mark the bottom edge of the female snaps and press it against the ab plate in the proper position in order to transfer the pencil markings onto the armor for correct snap locations. Then I drill holes just big enough for the male snaps to fit through. Here's where things can get a little tricky; finding a stable hard surface that will fit inside of the abdominal plate in order to place an anvil for hammering snaps.

Place the armor over the anvil and ensure the snap is centered and stable for hammering.

Now the male snaps are securely installed in the abdominal plate in the correct locations. This will ensure the belt goes on the armor straight when wearing it.

Edited December 11, 2016 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Thermal Detonator / O2 Canister

 

The thermal detonator is fairly straight forward, however I have seen this done somewhat incorrectly many times.  It is to be approximately 7.5" total in length, It can't be too long! The clips must be mounted with little to no gap between the end caps, the screws used to mount the clips should be black slotted pan head machine screws.

-The control panel should be trimmed down to about 4-3/4" long and should sit flat against the pipe with no return edges,

-The pipe itself should be exactly 6-1/2" long and painted with Testors 1138 Admiral Grey model paint.

-The end caps should be trimmed down to be exactly 3/4" wide which makes them only 1/4" deep on the inside,

-The gap between the control panel and the end caps is exactly 1/2"

-The clips are 1" wide and the top screw hole should be near the end of the clip. Also ensure the clips are mounted with little to no gap between the end caps. Before drilling, mark the correct screw locations by holding the clips in place and marking the holes with a pen or pencil.

I use the soft side of adhesive backed velcro to prevent the thermal detonator clips from scratching my kidney and posterior armor while wearing it.

Edited December 11, 2016 by SlyFox740

[SlyFox740[TK]]

Rubber Handguards/Gloves

 

For Centurion level approval the handguards must be "latex or latex-like" according to the CRL.

I have opted for a glossy white silicone rubber for multiple reasons. First of all; the glossy surface has a plastic-like appearance which I like because it matches the shine of the ABS armor. Not only the shine but the color is also a very close match to the armor as well. Secondly these will not chip, I know for some troopers the paint chipping is desired but not for me. I like more of the idealized appearance which is why I went with AP to begin with, the smooth shiny dome instead of the bumpy textured dome. Same with the leather boots, I'd rather have clean matching white leather boots than painted black leather. The paint just wears off similar to the handguards, again this is desired by most purists but I'm more of an idealist.

I used clear silicone caulking to affix the flexible handguards to the gloves, I prefer this because it is semi-permanent and can be removed when the gloves need to be replaced. Some troopers use Super Glue with a Primer Pen for a more permanent solution.

Edited December 11, 2016 by SlyFox740