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ANOVOS OT TK - Scott's build log


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Greetings! Officially stoked about getting my BBB today, tho without any shipping notifications or signature at drop-off like they said to expect. Oh well! So far I've looked at the helmet and a few of the arm pieces and they are SHARP with very clear guide-lines. They didn't utilize the ear notch trick, and the ear tube curves could use a sanding. I also noticed that since the parts come in slippery plastic bags, the glossy plastic shakes around which caused one of my bicep halves to get scratched. I think I have polish somewhere, so it's no biggie but it is something to watch out for. The eyes and teeth need to be opened and/or sanded slightly. The mouth is airbrushed and so looks more like ESB in grey, and lacks the corner/outside little dabs. The traps and tube stripes seem like decals but they look great and don't have big edges or any flaws. More to come (including pics!)

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Congrats on being the first build thread!  Now everyone is going to follow you, so no pressure at all.  (:

 

Hey, wait, you have an ATA thread open too, don't you?  Now you've got TWO sets of armor to build!  Get back to work!

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I'll unbox the armor completely soon, but here are some of the helmet.

ANOVOS on left, ATA on right. Then some detail shots I haven't shown anyone else yet :P

 

BBB:

image_zpsbfked5vj.jpeg

 

Front:

image_zps7b8ui7au.jpeg

 

3/4:

image_zpslfegscyp.jpeg

 

Right:

image_zpsyw8bz2dr.jpeg

 

Left:

image_zpszaba1o47.jpeg

 

Back:

image_zpsvznjeubh.jpeg

 

Frown is sloppily airbrushed, but should be easy to fix:

image_zpsiuhd1zp0.jpeg

image_zpsvvrhi3ff.jpeg

 

No ear step trick, so one side has a pretty big gap for my OCD:

image_zpshcwqseby.jpeg

image_zpsso9x53rp.jpeg

 

Kinda rough ear trimming in general:

image_zpssy8juhte.jpeg

image_zpsecegr57y.jpeg

 

One ear has the very bottom (3rd) screw half-showing, and the other is completely hidden:

image_zpshur2enr3.jpeg

image_zpsznnf7ig9.jpeg

 

Airbrushed glossy vocoder:

image_zpsi83qdhn0.jpeg

image_zpsjoplfjv3.jpeg

 

Not sure if this "S" trim is good enough, its pretty squared if that matters:

image_zpsp2yfisz0.jpeg

image_zpswm0skrs1.jpeg

image_zpsxc3hej0h.jpeg

 

Fairly accurate trim length/placement tho:

image_zpsygxmbtgu.jpeg

 

Lenses are pre-cut with Velcro attachment. Velcro for the head strap too. Frown mesh held on by double-sided sticky foam (technical term):

image_zpskl2c7wlu.jpeg

 

Very flush tube overlaps, I could hardly believe it ;) :

image_zps6fcf7vqd.jpeg

image_zpsao5xdlnb.jpeg

 

Mic tips look good to me. Very fine mesh and nice ...nipples:

image_zpsnc6ios8i.jpeg

 

Eyes could use some reshaping and sanding, but they left some meat on there so we can keep the screen-accurate look. Brow trim seems fine and is glued on just like the neck trim:

image_zps5pp6lttd.jpeg

image_zpspodq32s6.jpeg

 

Here are some close-ups of the decals. They did such a great job of getting the hand-painted look that I suspect they're direct copies of the real deal:

image_zps31avmxvn.jpeg

 

image_zpsyk33pw5w.jpeg

 

image_zpsatjtwlr8.jpeg

 

image_zps1fsmmmsh.jpeg

 

image_zpse8am2fn6.jpeg

Edited by charlesnarles
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Love seeing the comparison photos - thanks! Overall it looks good and should be fine for 501st I would think, even though as you point out some details are different from your expectation. Personally to me they don't look much different from most fan-builds though I would say the frown paint is a bit over done for my personal tastes.

 

As for the belt, my understanding is that all belts will have 4 rivet attachment. This is again fine for 501st base acceptance, you'd need to take out two Chicago screws to go EI/Centurion if you want to stay stunt.

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As for the belt, my understanding is that all belts will have 4 rivet attachment. This is again fine for 501st base acceptance, you'd need to take out two Chicago screws to go EI/Centurion if you want to stay stunt.

 

I hate to be that guy, but no, it isn't fine for base acceptance.  The CRL says 2 fasteners on the base level... (there actually isn't any Level 2/3 notes on the holster portion)

 

  • Holster is made of black leather or leather-like material.
  • Holster is worn on left side of belt and is attached via two leather or leather-like material straps to the belt from behind instead of front.
    • No loops cover the outside of the belt.
  • The holster is affixed with only two fasteners at the bottom (one per strap).
    • The fasteners may be rivets, snaps, or Chicago screws.
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Love seeing the comparison photos - thanks! Overall it looks good and should be fine for 501st I would think, even though as you point out some details are different from your expectation. Personally to me they don't look much different from most fan-builds though I would say the frown paint is a bit over done for my personal tastes.

 

As for the belt, my understanding is that all belts will have 4 rivet attachment. This is again fine for 501st base acceptance, you'd need to take out two Chicago screws to go EI/Centurion if you want to stay stunt.

 

Actually the CRL states 2 for stunt and 4 rivets for hero in the base requirements.

 

 

I hope the top two rivets come out of the belt painlessly. I'll be trying it when I get my kit . 

 

-Eric

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Glad that these are finally in hand and a build thread has been started. Finally an end to the speculation and controversy. Now maybe we can get back to being plastic spacemen, feeling excited and seeing some great builds.

Now where is that kidney notch!!

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

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Glad that these are finally in hand and a build thread has been started. Finally an end to the speculation and controversy. Now maybe we can get back to being plastic spacemen, feeling excited and seeing some great builds.

Now where is that kidney notch!!

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

its there. I got a photo from someone on the Facebook group.
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It looks like that's the part to adjust it to the size of your head... I'm guessing here, as I do not own this kit... Or that hard hat liner, but do use a variant of such...

Thanks for your help. It is for adjustment but it uses velcro tape for thr adjustment. When ever you pull away to make an adjustment it pulls off the velcro tape.
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The guy who posted the first unboxing video had the same issue on his.  Looks like they didn't give quite enough time for the glue or tape to fully bond, so it came loose.  Just needs to be glued back down and should be fine. :)

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