Vacuum forming plastic options

[DylanHarris99]

I was wandering what type of plastics and how long and hot they should be heated to make TK armor, I'm mainly after Ultra white PVC sheets, but ABS is fine too.

[TK bondservnt[501st]]

There are many factors to consider.  Have you worked in forming before?

[DylanHarris99]

I have not yet, I am looking into vacuum forming though.

[DylanHarris99]

There are many factors to consider. Have you worked in forming before?

I have not vacuum formed yet, but I have been looking into it for quite some time now. I am looking for tips on mainly pvc.

[pho[TK]]

Hello,

 

I have some experience from the industrial vacuumforming (fridge production with PVC).

It's quite important that the core temperature from your plastic sheet is higher then the glas transition temperature but not so high as the melting temperature. If the temperature is below the glas transition temperature, you will get some cracks in the plastic during the forming. Also the tempering of the mold is quite important, with a "hot" mold (30-50°C) you get better results during the forming (the material can flow better).

In the fridge mass production we used a lot of sensors to control the plastic sheet heating process and also the forming process itself. But nevertheless, we set the parameters for each new product with the try and error method

[Locitus[Admin]]

Why go through the effort to make your own moulds, build a vec-form and buy the plastic, then find it's hard and costly and didn't turn out very well, when you can buy a finished kit from someone who know's what they are doing, for much less?

[DarkTrooper[TK]]

Unless you're going to go into the "business" of creating your own armor molds and producing kits I don't think the work involved for one or two full sets of armor is worth it. Unless you already have a vacuum former and have use for it for other things.

[DylanHarris99]

Hello,

 

I have some experience from the industrial vacuumforming (fridge production with PVC).

It's quite important that the core temperature from your plastic sheet is higher then the glas transition temperature but not so high as the melting temperature. If the temperature is below the glas transition temperature, you will get some cracks in the plastic during the forming. Also the tempering of the mold is quite important, with a "hot" mold (30-50°C) you get better results during the forming (the material can flow better).

In the fridge mass production we used a lot of sensors to control the plastic sheet heating process and also the forming process itself. But nevertheless, we set the parameters for each new product with the try and error method

Hello,

 

I have some experience from the industrial vacuumforming (fridge production with PVC).

It's quite important that the core temperature from your plastic sheet is higher then the glas transition temperature but not so high as the melting temperature. If the temperature is below the glas transition temperature, you will get some cracks in the plastic during the forming. Also the tempering of the mold is quite important, with a "hot" mold (30-50°C) you get better results during the forming (the material can flow better).

In the fridge mass production we used a lot of sensors to control the plastic sheet heating process and also the forming process itself. But nevertheless, we set the parameters for each new product with the try and error method

I think I'll stick with abs or HIPS, I'm having trouble finding the pvc anyway.

[DylanHarris99]

Why go through the effort to make your own moulds, build a vec-form and buy the plastic, then find it's hard and costly and didn't turn out very well, when you can buy a finished kit from someone who know's what they are doing, for much less?

I have the molds already, I just want to make armor for me and my friends, plus I don't have the money for armor, especially from anovos.

[pho[TK]]

You have to consider the same things for ABS and HIPS as for PVC

[DylanHarris99]

You have to consider the same things for ABS and HIPS as for PVC

thanks for the advice.

[walt[501st]]

have molds already????.......sounds fishy

oh vacuforming is easy  you just heat some plastic up and put  it on a form and suck it down  and done!!!

ya know mathias ...how many times I read you saying that....lol..if I had a doller  for every time

 

forming is NOT easy to do..and not cheap

sure you can get 1000 bucks worth of HIPS to start practicing on   that should get you ready for ABS

good abs you can only buy in bulk about 5000 worth

 

but back to the molds  ??? 

c 

[DylanHarris99]

have molds already????.......sounds fishy

oh vacuforming is easy you just heat some plastic up and put it on a form and suck it down and done!!!

ya know mathias ...how many times I read you saying that....lol..if I had a doller for every time

 

forming is NOT easy to do..and not cheap

sure you can get 1000 bucks worth of HIPS to start practicing on that should get you ready for ABS

good abs you can only buy in bulk about 5000 worth

 

but back to the molds ???

c

[DylanHarris99]

I made them using pepakura FO trooper armor, but instead of using the armor I made to wear I cut it and added clay to open parts to be a vacuum forming mold.

[walt[501st]]

What did you do to reinforce them. Clay wont withstand forming pressure

[DylanHarris99]

Plaster.

[ABS80]

Plaster is not strongs enough but good luck!

[Jaehyc[TK]]

Reading some of these comments is disheartening. I thought these forums were to help and encourage people not nay say and post unfounded half accusations and down right wrong assumptions based on Zero evidence. 

 

Plaster is plenty strong enough.

 

I used a plaster mold for my 1st two vacuum forming tests and the molds were not a problem. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/33867-project-wst-windsor-stormtrooper/

 

I used ABS plastic which cost me $13(cdn) a sheet for 16" x 24" that's with shipping to canada I have ordered both .090" and .060" thicknesses (If your interested in the were to buy PM me)

 

My first Vacuum former imploded very dramatically but it only cost me under $20 so no biggy. The Mark II is wood took me a few hours to make and its solid, cost is under $50. 

 

My next set of tests will be using 3D printed molds. 

 

I would say so far I am in for under $100 and granted I haven't made a usable part yet. I've learned a lot and had fun with my friends. Enjoy the process, Be safe, Have fun.