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cjdesign's doopy doo's build


cjdesign

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Priming the finished parts... Tino's finish kit arrived today  :duim:  so I was able to complete the breach latch using the aluminum u bar inside the completion kit. 

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Love this stuff. it's goes on so thin.

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some finished pieces... the primer does a great job of bringing out some minor imperfections that will be filled and sanded. The upper grip slats will need to be made symmetrical and cleaned up a bit. Also putting a real sterling stock on this bad girl. I know it's a little heavier but I think it's worth it, and a great arm workout as well.

 

Sanded down the breach d-ring holder to be more like the original of 1/32-1/64. Obviously that is too thin for a replica so I decided leave just under 1/16. This also tightened up the d-ring so it doesn't move up and down. The original breach d-ring has zero vertical play. ^_^

 

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Scope Lens Install:

 

Installing the eye lens from T-Jay's completion kit and objective lens I obtained from Twnbrother.

 

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Objective Lens:

I know these are for the m38/40 and the retention ring on the m19 is bigger, but I still decided to cut off the resin portion and screw/glue the entire objective lens assembly in the scope. Looks much cleaner. The alternative was to disassemble the objective lens and use only the glass and retaining ring.

 

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Very impressive workmanship so far Carl.

 

there is certainly nothing wrong with slow and steady when it results in a great final product.

 

Keep up the great work.

cheers my white armored brother.... :duim:

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Original Stock Locking Mechanism

Since I'm using the original stock I painstakingly filed out the front of the barrel to accept the stock fastener. Once the stock was inserted for the final fit... the resin piece snapped right off.  So I filed out more... measured the locking position of the stock and marked an outline for an aluminum insert to aid in securing the front locking mechanism.

 

 

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Stock Hinge

 

I drilled a 8mm hole into the DD's stock pivot and inserted a heavy wall aluminum hobby tube. The holes on the stock are exactly 8mm and using a small hammer I was able to pressure fit the stock to my new aluminum tube. I will epoxy the original rivets back on the finish the look.

 

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Good progress. Nice idea for the front of the folding stock. I had the benefit of a metal receiver ;)

 

Is the mag release button functional, or just  a 'real' button

Yes, the mag release is functional using button, spring & oval nut. I'm just finishing the cleanup on the housing and will post pics soon.

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Magazine Release Button Install

 

Drill out larger hole for the spring. Unfortunately I drilled straight through and had to use molding puddy to reshape. It works!! It may need another filling here and there but overall I'm happy with the fit. Looks like the original nut which protrudes 1/3

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Safety/Auto Switch

 

Instead of using a small finish nail, i decided to use an old wood screw for the switch post, which will be drilling through the aluminum trigger inserts

 

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Tension Spring:

 

Using the wire including in Tino's finish kit and my jewelry ring sizing tool, I wrapped the wire around the size 7-6 mark.

 

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On 1/9/2016 at 4:34 AM, cjdesign said:

 

 

Uuh, I really love that mod! It turns that wonky trigger area into something very precise.

 

When you have the parts in hands next time to remove more resin, you could also add the 4th hole to be drilled under the trigger guard.

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Uuh, I really love that mod! It turns that wonky trigger area into something very precise.

 

When you have the parts in hands next time to remove more resin, you could also add the 4th hole to be drilled under the trigger guard.

Thanks!! :) I will make sure to add that 4th detail.

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  • 2 months later...

I'm testing the colors I will be using for the rest of the blaster. Painted the grip and will attach once on the main body has been painted as well.  The crackle paint can be finicky. So I opted to paint the grip first to test out the coverage.

 

My original Sterling's finish is a mixture of crackle paint and bare metal that has turned a rust color. Trying to replicate this throughout the blaster. I will mask off strategically, using Humbrol Maskol, to minic wear and scratches. Once dried. I'll apply the final crackle op coat.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Magazine Weathering:

 

Using Maskol to recreate a weathered surface like my original sterling mag. Brush on in some areas, let dry for 20 minutes and then it's ready to paint.

 

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Finished piece after two passes. waiting for some silver paint to highlight as needed.

Note: I've found that lightly buffing the finished painted surface, will create a consistent sheen that is present on the original magazine surface.

 

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