cjdesign's doopy doo's build

**cjdesign[TK]** · December 18, 2015

I'm still going through with the real button using 10$ worth of parts from apex guns parts...

**cjdesign[TK]** · December 18, 2015

Priming the finished parts... Tino's finish kit arrived today :duim: so I was able to complete the breach latch using the aluminum u bar inside the completion kit.

Love this stuff. it's goes on so thin.

**cjdesign[TK]** · December 18, 2015

some finished pieces... the primer does a great job of bringing out some minor imperfections that will be filled and sanded. The upper grip slats will need to be made symmetrical and cleaned up a bit. Also putting a real sterling stock on this bad girl. I know it's a little heavier but I think it's worth it, and a great arm workout as well.

Sanded down the breach d-ring holder to be more like the original of 1/32-1/64. Obviously that is too thin for a replica so I decided leave just under 1/16. This also tightened up the d-ring so it doesn't move up and down. The original breach d-ring has zero vertical play.

**I'm Batman[501st]** · December 18, 2015

Looking great Carl!

**Pyrates[TK]** · December 18, 2015

Deadly awesome build!

**cjdesign[TK]** · December 19, 2015

Deadly awesome build!

Thanks Aaron! Just taking cues from the fine builders here on FISD.

**cjdesign[TK]** · December 19, 2015

Scope Lens Install:

Installing the eye lens from T-Jay's completion kit and objective lens I obtained from Twnbrother.

Objective Lens:

I know these are for the m38/40 and the retention ring on the m19 is bigger, but I still decided to cut off the resin portion and screw/glue the entire objective lens assembly in the scope. Looks much cleaner. The alternative was to disassemble the objective lens and use only the glass and retaining ring.

**themaninthesuitcase[Admin]** · December 20, 2015

Good idea using the whole rear lens assembly, might have to do that my self.

**cjdesign[TK]** · December 20, 2015

Looking great Carl!

Thanks Ian!!! Slow and steady...

Thrawn's guard · December 21, 2015

Very impressive workmanship so far Carl.

There is certainly nothing wrong with slow and steady when it results in a great final product.

Keep up the great work.

Edited December 23, 2015 by Thrawn's guard

**cjdesign[TK]** · December 23, 2015

Very impressive workmanship so far Carl.

there is certainly nothing wrong with slow and steady when it results in a great final product.

Keep up the great work.

cheers my white armored brother.... :duim:

**cjdesign[TK]** · December 31, 2015

Original Stock Locking Mechanism

Since I'm using the original stock I painstakingly filed out the front of the barrel to accept the stock fastener. Once the stock was inserted for the final fit... the resin piece snapped right off. So I filed out more... measured the locking position of the stock and marked an outline for an aluminum insert to aid in securing the front locking mechanism.

**cjdesign[TK]** · December 31, 2015

Stock Hinge

I drilled a 8mm hole into the DD's stock pivot and inserted a heavy wall aluminum hobby tube. The holes on the stock are exactly 8mm and using a small hammer I was able to pressure fit the stock to my new aluminum tube. I will epoxy the original rivets back on the finish the look.

**I'm Batman[501st]** · December 31, 2015

Good progress. Nice idea for the front of the folding stock. I had the benefit of a metal receiver

Is the mag release button functional, or just a 'real' button?

**cjdesign[TK]** · January 3, 2016

Good progress. Nice idea for the front of the folding stock. I had the benefit of a metal receiver

Is the mag release button functional, or just a 'real' button

Yes, the mag release is functional using button, spring & oval nut. I'm just finishing the cleanup on the housing and will post pics soon.

**cjdesign[TK]** · January 7, 2016

Magazine Release Button Install

Drill out larger hole for the spring. Unfortunately I drilled straight through and had to use molding puddy to reshape. It works!! It may need another filling here and there but overall I'm happy with the fit. Looks like the original nut which protrudes 1/3

**cjdesign[TK]** · January 8, 2016

Trigger Assembly Part #2. Fine tuning the fit. almost there. I will need to remove more resin underneath to make flush with sides.

**cjdesign[TK]** · January 8, 2016

Safety/Auto Switch

Instead of using a small finish nail, i decided to use an old wood screw for the switch post, which will be drilling through the aluminum trigger inserts

**cjdesign[TK]** · January 9, 2016

Tension Spring:

Using the wire including in Tino's finish kit and my jewelry ring sizing tool, I wrapped the wire around the size 7-6 mark.

**T-Jay[TK]** · January 9, 2016

On 1/9/2016 at 4:34 AM, cjdesign said:

Uuh, I really love that mod! It turns that wonky trigger area into something very precise.

When you have the parts in hands next time to remove more resin, you could also add the 4th hole to be drilled under the trigger guard.

**cjdesign[TK]** · January 9, 2016

Uuh, I really love that mod! It turns that wonky trigger area into something very precise.

When you have the parts in hands next time to remove more resin, you could also add the 4th hole to be drilled under the trigger guard.

Thanks!! I will make sure to add that 4th detail.

Edited January 13, 2017 by cjdesign

**cjdesign[TK]** · March 22, 2016

I'm testing the colors I will be using for the rest of the blaster. Painted the grip and will attach once on the main body has been painted as well. The crackle paint can be finicky. So I opted to paint the grip first to test out the coverage.

My original Sterling's finish is a mixture of crackle paint and bare metal that has turned a rust color. Trying to replicate this throughout the blaster. I will mask off strategically, using Humbrol Maskol, to minic wear and scratches. Once dried. I'll apply the final crackle op coat.

**cjdesign[TK]** · March 22, 2016

Bolt:

Working on creating the striations on the bolt to line up like the original

**cjdesign[TK]** · March 30, 2016

Magazine Weathering:

Using Maskol to recreate a weathered surface like my original sterling mag. Brush on in some areas, let dry for 20 minutes and then it's ready to paint.