TD42115[501st] Posted March 5, 2016 Report Posted March 5, 2016 Its coming along man, keep at it. Just remember to take your time and don't over think. Once you realize that the cuts will never be totally perfect the whole process goes a lot smother. I did a bit of sanding to get things where i wanted them. Watched ANH at least 20 times during my build to TK, then another 10 during my conversion to TD and weathering. 3 Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) Alright comrades, not sure how this will fly. but I think I got the dread right ear pretty darn good. Yes there is a bit of excess on the back... BUT... come on! Gap? Fahgettabout it! Let me know if this is acceptable to get up to that sweet cent status or will I have to go back and painstakingly dremel mm by mm again lol. Edited April 7, 2016 by ComradeDave 1 Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Posted March 7, 2016 I trimmed the back and front indentations a little more they are noticeable but I think it looks ok. I know I'm going to receive from flak about having excess ABS in those recesses. 1 Quote
Pyrates[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 Stellar work my friend and looking great! 1 Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Posted March 7, 2016 It may or may not happen but I have my extra lenses cut, and my fix it stick ready, just have to trim my other ear and brow, we might had a paint ready bucket in the next little bit comrades! 1 Quote
ABS80 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) Not accurate, you need completely remove the lip both in front and back, that step is actually the marking were to trim, it looks really weird with that step, not even sure it would be approved, You can see my 3 helmets below or any movie helmet no lip whatsoever should be visible. Edited March 7, 2016 by ABS80 1 Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Posted March 7, 2016 YOu're right Mark, I messed up. I asked around and I need to cut that step out. I even think it looks bad now. I'm going to go slow and trim where I need to to try and minimize the gap as much as possible Not accurate, you need completely remove the lip both in front and back, that step is actually the marking were to trim, it looks really weird with that step, not even sure it would be approved, You can see my 3 helmets below or any movie helmet no lip whatsoever should be visible. Quote
Pyrates[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 YOu're right Mark, I messed up. I asked around and I need to cut that step out. I even think it looks bad now. I'm going to go slow and trim where I need to to try and minimize the gap as much as possible You can do it (with a Cajun accent) 1 Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Posted March 7, 2016 You can do it (with a Cajun accent) Aaron how did you do your ears? Dan? Walter? Joe? any tips? I am using Gazmosis' how to and this one as well. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27375-howto-draw-an-approximate-ear-trim-line-with-no-gaps/ Quote
Pyrates[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 Aaron how did you do your ears? Dan? Walter? Joe? any tips? I am using Gazmosis' how to and this one as well. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27375-howto-draw-an-approximate-ear-trim-line-with-no-gaps/ I wish I could help mate but I'm putting ATA ears on an AP bucket - I'm working on them tonight when I get home and have a couple of ideas on approach I just have to experiment first - I will be in touch though if I can get you an answer 1 Quote
Pyrates[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 The only quick breakdown I can give is to grab a piece of card stock and try and replicate the contour of the helmet - then use template as a guideline on your ears 1 Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Posted March 7, 2016 These tutorials helped give them a try I think both are ATA http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/27375-howto-draw-an-approximate-ear-trim-line-with-no-gaps/ http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29238-my-helmet-ear-tutorial/#entry372251 1 Quote
Knockerbot[501st] Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 I didn't even need the Cajun accent prompt to read it like that. I may have gone dirty but we're brothers for life! Lol Oh hi guys btw lol. Just no melting this one Davey. You can do it (with a Cajun accent) 2 Quote
Knockerbot[501st] Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 Also I went seat of my pants on the ears. Just chopped until it looked like the reference photo I liked. 1 Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Posted March 7, 2016 I hear you loud and clear brother! I didn't even need the Cajun accent prompt to read it like that. I may have gone dirty but we're brothers for life! LolOh hi guys btw lol.Just no melting this one Davey. 1 Quote
ABS80 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) carefully score using a exacto around lip and snap, then do some sanding final sanding thats how I trim all my ears, its actually easier to do when all material is there, you can also use a dremel sanding drum and carefully sand away all excess material or shave using exacto, whatever you feel more comfortable. any small gaps is normal no need to be perfect, I built tons of helmets and still have some gaps. Mark (AP) Edited March 8, 2016 by ABS80 1 Quote
Trogdor[TK] Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 Mark is right. In theory since you have the profile how you want it if you set a divider to the amount you want to remove you can trace around the entire ear and remove that amount. I had to do this as I left my ears too thick on my first past. The problem with the cut a little at a time method is sometime that makes it harder to remove material safely. Its very easy to score and snap a big piece, not so much a small sliver. I ended you whittling down the plastic with a sharp exact knife and using sand paper to smooth. My theory was "Always easier to cut more off than to add it back"; however, gaps are normal/expected. Remeber the originals were from hand sculpts and not symmetrical. Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Posted March 8, 2016 despite all of your advice yet another right ear was ruined. I don\'t know what I'm doing wrong but the gap is just ridiculous on both sides I trimmed the circular part down very far and nothing is working... Quote
Knockerbot[501st] Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 Alright, you need an armor party for the next one. Pics? Is it saveable for now? Quote
Pyrates[TK] Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 despite all of your advice yet another right ear was ruined. I don\'t know what I'm doing wrong but the gap is just ridiculous on both sides I trimmed the circular part down very far and nothing is working... Once again mate - you're not alone - after getting mine trimmed I have discovered that my hero ears will not work with my bucket - so now I'm looking for a new hero bucket. Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Posted March 8, 2016 ok 3rd time was the charm there is so little gap it would make hairline fractures jealous pics to come now I know Mark H. there shouldn't be a "step" but man its not even noticeable I'm proud of this here 1 Quote
Pyrates[TK] Posted March 8, 2016 Report Posted March 8, 2016 ok 3rd time was the charm there is so little gap it would make hairline fractures jealous pics to come now I know Mark H. there shouldn't be a "step" but man its not even noticeable I'm proud of this here Yay - I might have fixed my problem too 1 Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Posted March 8, 2016 gotta leave a little ridge to avoid a gap 2 Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Posted March 8, 2016 probably a bit more hand sanding but thats all for tonight I'm friggin starving and I almost had an aneurysm with this tonight 1 Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Posted March 8, 2016 Didn't see marks and Joe's advice but I basically did the same as they suggested. It worked 4 Quote
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