Lucky#Eleven - Phoenix Props Pipe Kit with Completion Set, Conversion Counter, Inner Barrel and more Add-Ons

[SeanTX]

Any bright ideas on making the end cap adapter in metal?

[usaeatt2]

Any bright ideas on making the end cap adapter in metal?

 

Actually, yes.  I considered drawing the notch ring in CAD, laying it out flat, then having it laser cut from the appropriate thickness of metal.

I would likely try 5052 aluminum and mild steel for the base material.  Making it easy to roll will be a factor in the material selection.

This would make the notch ring something like photo-etched detail parts upgrades that are popular with scale model builders...

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Aaron, your latest muzzle and notch ring plans are highly anticipated. These additions would be awesome. Along with your notch ring idea, could the same idea apply to the front sight guard? A flat laser cut sight guard with the correct knurled pattern stamped into it. Then the only thing someone has to do is bend it to the correct shape to install. Maybe a piece of plastic or wood shaped to the inner sight contour can be supplied to ensure the correct shape. <br><br>

Tino, amazed at how you caught those tiny d ring sized holes near the notches. Wonder what they were originally intended for. Work on the installing the d ring and prepping the end cap is fantastic. Cutting out the area to set the d ring holder into is tough work. I used wood carving tools to carve out the resin and get the inner surface as flat as possible. You are brave to try that with a power tool.

[usaeatt2]

Aaron, your latest muzzle and notch ring plans are highly anticipated. These additions would be awesome. Along with your notch ring idea, could the same idea apply to the front sight guard? A flat laser cut sight guard with the correct knurled pattern stamped into it. Then the only thing someone has to do is bend it to the correct shape to install. Maybe a piece of plastic or wood shaped to the inner sight contour can be supplied to ensure the correct shape. <br><br>

Tino, amazed at how you caught those tiny d ring sized holes near the notches. Wonder what they were originally intended for. Work on the installing the d ring and prepping the end cap is fantastic. Cutting out the area to set the d ring holder into is tough work. I used wood carving tools to carve out the resin and get the inner surface as flat as possible. You are brave to try that with a power tool.

 

Thanks Brian!  I thought about the front sight guard awhile ago.  Getting the knurling pressed into a flat sheet might be easier, but I still haven't crossed that bridge.  It would be cool to stamp the correct cross hatch pattern onto a sheet of metal.  Machining the stamp wouldn't be a big deal, but the stamp would need to be hardened.  I could cast a resin sight guard form...

 

I'm gonna throw out a guess on the D-shaped holes...  Everything on a Sterling is designed to keep working, even if the weapon gets really dirty or dropped in the mud.  The clearing strips on the bolt and the rollers inside the magazine are good examples of engineering for reliability - dirt has a place to go to prevent the weapon from jamming.  My guess is, the D-shape holes prevent dirt from accumulating in the notches.  If dirt DID accumulate in the notches, it would eventually become difficult or impossible to properly lock the end cap without stopping to clean the notches.

 

Aaron

[divotdan]

Really enjoyed the detail in the last update Tino. Thanks and keep up the good work.

[2155TK[TK]]

I'm crying right now.

 

 

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[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

T-Jay would you be able to tell me how wide the extractor plunger is? I need to add one to my DD kit and I am not sure how wide it is.

[T-Jay[TK]]

On 29/01/2016 at 9:01 PM, Sith Lord said:

Nicely detailed work Tino.

Thanks very much Ian

 

On 30/01/2016 at 1:24 AM, charlesnarles said:

Looks pretty on there. I forgot I need an adapter piece! lol

If you contact Derrek (Dday) he will surely help you with that.

 

On 30/01/2016 at 1:35 AM, usaeatt2 said:

This build continues to impress!!!

 

The notch holes in the rear are D-shaped on the Sterling, so you nailed it!

 

BTW, I have an accurate solution for the rolled edge/tube length problem...see the link below.

 

I machined a groove behind the rolled edge of an original Sterling front, then removed the muzzle.

The resulting part is a Sterling muzzle with the original rolled edge STILL ATTACHED - I'll make a silcone mold and cast it in resin.

To get the correct tube length, you just use a belt sander or file to take down the front edge of the tube until the dovetail in the muzzle lines up with the tube dovetail.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35229-sterling-muzzle-rolled-edge/?p=461337

 

Aaron

Aaron, thanks for your kind words and confirmation on the D-shape.

Your front muzzle with rolled edge is just WOW    As discussed in our PMs, I would love to introduce one in this build.

 

On 30/01/2016 at 3:40 AM, Bulldog44 said:

(...)

Tino, amazed at how you caught those tiny d ring sized holes near the notches. Wonder what they were originally intended for. Work on the installing the d ring and prepping the end cap is fantastic. Cutting out the area to set the d ring holder into is tough work. I used wood carving tools to carve out the resin and get the inner surface as flat as possible. You are brave to try that with a power tool.

Thanks Brian. To hollow the end cap (for placement of the ring holder) I definitely used the wrong tools. But that was all I had available.

Maybe someday we get a resin copy of an end cap with that indentation – or with the ring holder attached… Aaron? Derrek? 

 

On 31/01/2016 at 7:09 PM, divotdan said:

Really enjoyed the detail in the last update Tino. Thanks and keep up the good work.

Thanks Dan. I try to keep it like this through all the updates...

 

On 02/02/2016 at 6:56 AM, LUIS TK-2155 said:

I'm crying right now.

Ehm, is that a good or bad sign?

 

On 02/02/2016 at 2:44 PM, themaninthesuitcase said:

T-Jay would you be able to tell me how wide the extractor plunger is? I need to add one to my DD kit and I am not sure how wide it is.

Chris, this was recently posted by Dennis (tr00per) and should help to answer your question.

Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Chris, this was recently posted by Dennis (tr00per) and should help to answer your question.

Perfect, worth adding to the reference section? I just double checked and the dimensions aren't there.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Yes, an end cap with the indentation would be great! So many ideas for upgrades. But for now your work on this shows that anything is possible and with great results.

[T-Jay[TK]]

On 02/02/2016 at 10:28 PM, themaninthesuitcase said:

Perfect, worth adding to the reference section? I just double checked and the dimensions aren't there.

Chris, thanks for double checking. I contacted Dennis (tr00per) and he immediately helped. A slightly altered version of his photo got added to chapter #31 (Measurements).

 

On 02/02/2016 at 11:11 PM, Bulldog44 said:

Yes, an end cap with the indentation would be great! So many ideas for upgrades. But for now your work on this shows that anything is possible and with great results.

Thanks Brian. Just trying to realize the full potential of this blaster kit

Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay

[T-Jay[TK]]

Update #10     - Slowly crawling forward










 
In the meantime I had contacted Chris (maninthesuitcase) who recently offered his 3D-creations and ordered some parts via shapeways. He made them available in 3 colors,
so I took one in each color (a closer inspection on the power cylinders will follow in a later update). The „sandpaper surface“ is the same on every part, but can be seen best on the silver T-clip.

 

Of course that tells nothing about the accuracy of Chris‘ work, as the problem could have also been caused by incorrectly transferring the drill hole to the aluminum channel.
If doing this mod again, I would however drill the channel to exactly match the new T-clip

 

Back in my first build, Aaron (usaeatt2) had posted a video to show, how the locking mechanism for the end cap works. Below is a short video of mine:

 

 

What do you think? Not sure if I will have a new update ready for next weekend, but I try my best. And thanks again Chris, for offering your files

Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay

[Dougal[501st]]

Wow, just wow!

 

 

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[Lichtbringer]

Wow, just wow!

 

 

I second that. 

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Nice to see the parts in action. For what it's worth the end clip isn't 100% accurate. It's a tiny bit wider to fill the channel in your kit a bit better. I think 1 other dimension was changed too but we're talking around 0.1mm. The hole position *should* be good though, if anyone wants to double check then the 123D files are available to download. Also if you wanted to move the pin then the file has a model without that bit cut out so you could do a custom one.

 

Also I've "retired" that silver, I got a part in it and I just didn't like the finish at all. The white and black aren't anything like as bad.

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Great attention to detail Tino!

[T-Jay[TK]]

On 06/02/2016 at 2:54 PM, Dougal said:

Wow, just wow!

 

On 06/02/2016 at 3:26 PM, Lichtbringer said:

I second that. 

 

On 06/02/2016 at 11:16 PM, Sith Lord said:

Great attention to detail Tino!

Thank you guys! Glad to see the work and time spent into this build has at least not been wasted

 

On 06/02/2016 at 6:51 PM, themaninthesuitcase said:

Nice to see the parts in action. For what it's worth the end clip isn't 100% accurate. It's a tiny bit wider to fill the channel in your kit a bit better. I think 1 other dimension was changed too but we're talking around 0.1mm. The hole position *should* be good though, if anyone wants to double check then the 123D files are available to download. Also if you wanted to move the pin then the file has a model without that bit cut out so you could do a custom one.

 

Also I've "retired" that silver, I got a part in it and I just didn't like the finish at all. The white and black aren't anything like as bad.

Chris, I really like the clip as it was and would not say that any measurement was “wrong”. The aluminum channel can also get squeezed a bit to reduce the gaps.

No silver available anymore? Thought this to be the best choice for parts in stressed areas, in case the paint comes off.

Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay

[T-Jay[TK]]

Update #11     - Lucky number eleven

 

For a while I thought about the new serial number for this build. Well, that blaster is an E-11. And it is the 11th one I build. This is update #11 and the build started last November (month 11). Therefore I decided to replace the KR126277 with TJ201511. When the power cylinders are added, we will only see the „11“ -  Lucky Number Eleven

 

 

Those neodym magnets are really strong and it makes a big difference if you add or remove just one. Started with 1 in the magazine  and 1 in the mag well. Absolutely insufficient. Then tried 2 & 2 what felt a bit weak, while 2 & 3 worked good. It now takes a believable strength to unplug the magazine. Have not tried 3 & 3 but I would expect this to be too much. In the beginning I planned to cover the magnets with a thin layer of green stuff to hide them. Due to adding more magnets later, the drill holes filled up and now do not leave enough space for this. Maybe I just go with black paint…

 

 

Because of all the movable parts, here is a little video:

 

 

 

Have a nice weekend everybody

Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay

[usaeatt2]

SWEET MOTHER OF E-11 BUILDS!!!

 

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Tino, Aaron's reply says it all and more. <br>

I still can't believe how you did the the magazine release. Crazy skills my friend!

[themaninthesuitcase[Admin]]

Thank you guys! Glad to see the work and time spent into this build has at least not been wasted

 

 

 

Chris, I really like the clip as it was and would not say that any measurement was “wrong”. The aluminum channel can also get squeezed a bit to reduce the gaps.

No silver available anymore? Thought this to be the best choice for parts in stressed areas, in case the paint comes off.

If people want it its not hard to add back, about 4 clicks! I just wasn't happy with the finish due to the extra work required.

[sla73]

Wow T-Jay,

 

I just found this build, haven't even finished my doopy build yet and this makes me what to get into a pipe build!

 

Fantastic stuff. !!!

 

Bryn

[Ripper_L[Admin]]

this thread is insane. All the details are incredible and I really like how you do all the work. I will learn a lot from this for my Aluminium blaster

[Thrawn's guard]

Tino I take my hat off to you as your work on this build is of the highest quality.

 

This is already one of the best builds I have seen and will be a great source of reference for all future blaster builders. I suspect it may also inspire and tempt a few of us who have already built blasters to start a new build.

 

However not only are you putting together what will provide to be an amazing E11 your attention to detail within your build threads is second to none and I very much look forward to following this thread through to it's completion.

[TKZombie[TK]]

Oh my, wow talk about taking it to the next level and beyond. Incredible can't wait to see it finished!