Bulldog44[TK] Posted January 13, 2016 Report Posted January 13, 2016 Superb! I have a tube from the first run which doesn't have the dovetail cut. Wondering how that will effect how the muzzle installation with the barrel. Your work on this is providing extremely useful information for future builds. Thanks always for the detailed updates! Quote
Dday[501st] Posted January 13, 2016 Report Posted January 13, 2016 Tino, Hawaii is a wonderful place to live... the only thing that sucks is the Traffic and the increased cost of everyday items. Gotta love Amazon... mainland prices and free shipping. If you are ever out this way give me a call. I will show you around the Island. I should be here for another 18 months or so. Then Uncle Sam will find someplace else for me to work. I am hoping for Germany. Looking at your build definitely makes me want to copy it. I will do a few things different, but for the most part it will be like yours. When my kit from Dday arrives I will be very busy..... Shipping tomorrow 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 16, 2016 Author Report Posted January 16, 2016 (edited) On 13/01/2016 at 2:13 AM, Twnbrother said: Tino, Hawaii is a wonderful place to live... the only thing that sucks is the Traffic and the increased cost of everyday items. Gotta love Amazon... mainland prices and free shipping. If you are ever out this way give me a call. I will show you around the Island. I should be here for another 18 months or so. Then Uncle Sam will find someplace else for me to work. I am hoping for Germany. Looking at your build definitely makes me want to copy it. I will do a few things different, but for the most part it will be like yours. When my kit from Dday arrives I will be very busy..... Thanks for your invitation. The same goes for you: if you make it to Germany, we should meet. Instead of copying my build, I am sure you will put yours to the next level – and I can’t wait to see that. On 13/01/2016 at 2:29 AM, Bulldog44 said: Superb! I have a tube from the first run which doesn't have the dovetail cut. Wondering how that will effect how the muzzle installation with the barrel. Your work on this is providing extremely useful information for future builds. Thanks always for the detailed updates! Brian, without the dovetail in your receiver, it should be possible to place the barrel and the muzzle exactly where they are supposed to be. Then you could cut off the overlength and recreate the rounded front with your rotary tool. Just an idea... On 13/01/2016 at 4:26 AM, Dday said: Shipping tomorrow Maybe I should slow down this build, so Mike and me could soon run this in parallel Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 16, 2016 Author Report Posted January 16, 2016 (edited) Update #07 - Get a grip This mounting method is perfect for a static build. But in this case, I had to find a different way to securely connect the grip to the receiver tube. Looks a bit rough at the moment. Maybe that changes after painting... Thanks for any critics and comments. Edited January 16, 2016 by T-Jay 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 16, 2016 Author Report Posted January 16, 2016 (edited) Corrective Actions on bolt colors: As promised in entry #41, here are the painting corrections to better match the original. Edited January 16, 2016 by T-Jay 1 Quote
SeanTX Posted January 16, 2016 Report Posted January 16, 2016 That new grip looks great. The quality of your thread is just phenomenal. I'm just so happy to even get pictures uploaded I could never be this organized. Quote
Twnbrother Posted January 17, 2016 Report Posted January 17, 2016 Wow. I am consistently impressed with your work. you are hands down one of the best builders I have seen Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 17, 2016 Report Posted January 17, 2016 Come on Tino.... I expected more from you! Surely you could have executed your surgeon like precision to get the aluminium plate around the rotary switch? Nice thought to wire up the switch - perhaps an alternating red/blue light for kill/stun? Quote
charlesnarles Posted January 17, 2016 Report Posted January 17, 2016 Glad to see that switch work in a resin handle. You beat me to the punch on a build like this, so I'm paying close attention Quote
Dday[501st] Posted January 18, 2016 Report Posted January 18, 2016 Looking good. This is a bad build thread though , there are precious few who can hope to actually follow in your footsteps with the awesome mods you're doing. This things is going to be crazy cool. Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 21, 2016 Author Report Posted January 21, 2016 (edited) On 16/01/2016 at 1:54 PM, SeanTX said: That new grip looks great. The quality of your thread is just phenomenal. I'm just so happy to even get pictures uploaded I could never be this organized. To be honest Sean, this thread currently requires more time on the keyboards than on the work bench. On 17/01/2016 at 5:35 AM, Twnbrother said: Wow. I am consistently impressed with your work. you are hands down one of the best builders I have seen Thank you very much, Mike. There will surely be other people soon with great ideas and better builds – maybe your next one… On 17/01/2016 at 11:29 AM, Sith Lord said: Come on Tino.... I expected more from you! Surely you could have executed your surgeon like precision to get the aluminium plate around the rotary switch? Nice thought to wire up the switch - perhaps an alternating red/blue light for kill/stun? For a moment I thought about accepting that challenge and rework it, but then lazily decided to leave this up to Mike (Twnbrother) For the rotary switch: this is exactly what I have in mind On 17/01/2016 at 9:28 PM, charlesnarles said: Glad to see that switch work in a resin handle. You beat me to the punch on a build like this, so I'm paying close attention Really had to persuade myself to hollow that grip for inserting the switch. Currently all I can do is hoping it will work as planned On 18/01/2016 at 8:38 AM, Dday said: Looking good. This is a bad build thread though , there are precious few who can hope to actually follow in your footsteps with the awesome mods you're doing. This things is going to be crazy cool. Thanks Derrek. The majority of people might not go that far, but could still use this as help for their own builds. Thank you for offering this blaster kit with such great details. There is currently no better kit I could think of for doing this build. Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 22, 2016 Author Report Posted January 22, 2016 For easier navigation to individual build entries, I just added an interactive “table of contents” at the end of the first posting from this thread. It grows with every new update and also contains links to subsequent "Corrective Actions" (if there were some). This hopefully helps other people to not make the same mistakes and immediately find the corrections. Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 22, 2016 Report Posted January 22, 2016 Nice work. Is that just a copy and paste of the page reference into the first post? Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 23, 2016 Author Report Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) On 22/01/2016 at 9:50 PM, Sith Lord said: Nice work. Is that just a copy and paste of the page reference into the first post? This has been done the same way as the “Table Of Contents” in our blaster reference thread. Every row in that list is linked to the specific posting. On 23/01/2016 at 2:41 AM, cjdesign said: looking good jedi master!! Ehm wait, we are on the dark side here, aren’t we? Best regards to L.A. Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 23, 2016 Author Report Posted January 23, 2016 (edited) Update #08 - Finger on the trigger Now that the trigger was in place, it got time to add a micro switch behind it. This had been taken from the electronics in the Disney blaster. The short video below gives an impression of its light and sound effects, that I want to implant into this E-11. Tested the micro switch in the trigger group (worked fine) and thought about placement of the other components. The original battery housing was no option, something else had to be found… To place the batteries in a movable part, obviously causes problems with the wiring. A few days I tried various ideas of what to install where best – without finding a satisfying way. The movable bolt and invisible electronics are no problem - if each modification is in a separate blaster. The real challange with this build is to COMBINE both mods. The nice screen caps from Dennis (Tr00per) prove, the opened ejector port is screen accurate. That made me rethink it all and I finally decided to permanently install the bolt in that backward position. This might be polarizing for some people, but this way it - 1 - allows proper wiring (as the part won‘t move anywhere) 2 - keeps the bullets and magazine visible at any time 3 - and is still screen accurate! So with a heavy heart I replaced the cup spring with the battery container. Well, at least it has been shown in earlier postings. And who knows, maybe this isn‘t the last blaster I build… However, the wiring makes more sense at a later stage in this build, so the next updates are going to cover work on the external resin parts. While doing this, there will be enough time to think about this… Have a nice weekend everybody Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay 2 Quote
charlesnarles Posted January 24, 2016 Report Posted January 24, 2016 Beautiful! It'll be fun to see how that open bolt looks Quote
Twnbrother Posted January 28, 2016 Report Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) I was looking at the 4.5 volts that you need to run the sound effects. You can disassemble a 9V to get 4.5V battery that has a smaller profile. Another route is using two 3V coin batteries. You could route the wiring to the magazine well or to the pistol grip. The pistol grip would be a pain as to replace it you would have to remove the grip each time. Or a rechargeable battery in the grip with the charging port being hidden under the pistol grip screw. Unscrew and recharge. Edited January 28, 2016 by Twnbrother Quote
colinstevenbird Posted January 28, 2016 Report Posted January 28, 2016 Or 3x 1.5v batteries Sent from my SM-G903F using Tapatalk Quote
Twnbrother Posted January 28, 2016 Report Posted January 28, 2016 Another thought... could you use one of the cylinder power banks? They are 5v and have around 2600-3200mAh. Same trick in pistol grip, just find a good place to route the charging port. Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Posted January 29, 2016 (edited) On 24/01/2016 at 5:34 AM, charlesnarles said: Beautiful! It'll be fun to see how that open bolt looks The open bolt already is my personal favorite modification on this build. Wondering how many people will think it is a real Sterling with rounds… On 28/01/2016 at 10:17 PM, Twnbrother said: I was looking at the 4.5 volts that you need to run the sound effects. You can disassemble a 9V to get 4.5V battery that has a smaller profile. Another route is using two 3V coin batteries. You could route the wiring to the magazine well or to the pistol grip. The pistol grip would be a pain as to replace it you would have to remove the grip each time. Or a rechargeable battery in the grip with the charging port being hidden under the pistol grip screw. Unscrew and recharge. Mike, thanks for doing some research on the voltage and your PM about that. Indeed, placement in the pistol grip is something I thought about, but hard to reach for battery replacement. Compared with 3x AAA batteries, the 2 coin batteries might not last very long. On 28/01/2016 at 10:28 PM, colinstevenbird said: Or 3x 1.5v batteries For this build I will continue with the 3x 1,5 V AAA batteries and I am very sure, Mike will soon run an awesome build. He mentioned an interesting idea in his last PM… Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted January 29, 2016 Author Report Posted January 29, 2016 (edited) Update #09 - The end (cap) is near As mentioned last time, it goes on with the external resin parts. Tackling this build from back to front, today’s progress is about the ring holder, end cap and tube adapter. Would have been easier to drill those 3 holes into the aluminum receiver BEFORE adding the fragile resin adapter for the end cap… (although not being sure, if they are D-shaped or circular). Had more work on these few parts than expected. But I guess, that‘s what this hobby is all about. So… Thanks for reading. Edited September 20, 2017 by T-Jay 2 Quote
I'm Batman[501st] Posted January 29, 2016 Report Posted January 29, 2016 Nicely detailed work Tino. Quote
charlesnarles Posted January 30, 2016 Report Posted January 30, 2016 (edited) Looks pretty on there. I forgot I need an adapter piece! lol Edited January 30, 2016 by charlesnarles Quote
usaeatt2 Posted January 30, 2016 Report Posted January 30, 2016 (edited) This build continues to impress!!! The notch holes in the rear are D-shaped on the Sterling, so you nailed it! BTW, I have an accurate solution for the rolled edge/tube length problem...see the link below. I machined a groove behind the rolled edge of an original Sterling front, then removed the muzzle. The resulting part is a Sterling muzzle with the original rolled edge STILL ATTACHED - I'll make a silcone mold and cast it in resin. To get the correct tube length, you just use a belt sander or file to take down the front edge of the tube until the dovetail in the muzzle lines up with the tube dovetail. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35229-sterling-muzzle-rolled-edge/?p=461337 Aaron Edited January 30, 2016 by usaeatt2 1 Quote
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