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Lucky#Eleven - Phoenix Props Pipe Kit with Completion Set, Conversion Counter, Inner Barrel and more Add-Ons


T-Jay

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Update #05     - Inside the receiver (back end)
 
Next step was to paint the inside of the receiver

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Thanks very much for comments and critics.

Edited by T-Jay
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Tino... you didn't just raise the bar. You created a new Standard. WOW!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

Thank you very much, Mike. Although not being really sure what I got myself into.  :lol:  Well will see…

 

 

Don't worry Mike, there'll be people like me who'll manage to lower it again....

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On 04/01/2016 at 9:55 PM, Sith Lord said:

Looking fantastic Tino. 

Thank you, Ian. Your Sniper Rifle build is also very nice to follow. Great idea and the start is thrilling - or should I say "drilling"? :lol:

 

On 04/01/2016 at 9:42 PM, Twnbrother said:

Tino,

 

This is truly a replica of the original and it looks better than a real sterling. The only thing you are missing is the smell of gun powder.

Depending on the build progress, there might later indeed be a stage, where this blaster could look more like a Sterling replica. But I will make sure to turn it into an E-11 at the end.

 

On 04/01/2016 at 10:28 PM, SeanTX said:

Did you coat the inside with a special paint so the bolt sliding won't scrape it?

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I257 using Tapatalk

Good question, Sean. The paint is standard paint and because of sliding the bolt through the receiver so many times during building, I already noticed some wear.

As announced in entry #41, the clearing stripes will get repainted with silver. After that I might add some color-compatible oil for lubrication.

 

On 05/01/2016 at 9:03 AM, usaeatt2 said:

Tino, this build is ABSOLUTELY RIDICULOUS...  :)

 

Truly a pleasure to watch, so THANKS for sharing your talents!

Yep, hope I don’t get banned for posting this garbage here… ;)

 

On 05/01/2016 at 6:32 PM, cjdesign said:

Bravo!! :jc_doublethumbup:

Thanks, Carl. You currently have an interesting ESB build running on your own and it is a pleasure to follow.

Edited by T-Jay
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Update #06     - Inside the receiver (front end)

 

The rear end got done last time, so we can move on to the forward section
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Can't wait to post the next update, but currently I only have limited time for this hobby. Will do my best to keep the updates coming...

 

Have a nice weekend everybody :)

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Update #06     - Inside the receiver (front end)

 

23893138999_99bf6ea1bc_b.jpg

 

 

This is an interesting picture, showing the entire stack up outside the receiver.

I have another real Sterling muzzle surgically removed from a receiver - I'm considering making a mold and offering a muzzle casting as an option with barrel purchases.

Right now, cutting the Phoenix Props casting (as you did) is the only way to install the barrel, but doing so eliminates the crescent shaped "block" on the inside of the muzzle.

See the reference picture showing the inside of the muzzle...that block maintains proper barrel spacing.

You could maybe cut several crescent shapes from styrene sheet and build them up to reestablish the spacing.

Would you be interested in an upgrade muzzle casting?

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Mystery of the spacing discrepancy SOLVED...  :)

 

1_zps80sjepho.jpg

 

The front of the CNC'd receivers are about 1 mm too long.

Then add the receiver thickness, if the edge were rolled.

The muzzle fits behind the rolled edge, which is ~1/16" thick.

If you line up the resin muzzle with the front edge of the CNC tube, the offset from a real Sterling: 3/32" or 2.38mm.

Actually, I'm glad this happened...I may take all my receivers to a machine shop to see if I can actually get the front edges rolled.

Here are some measurements to figure out where your muzzle needs to be in relation to the receiver:

 

2_zps3wr3nnbf.jpg

Edited by usaeatt2
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Mystery of the spacing discrepancy SOLVED...  :)

 

1_zps80sjepho.jpg

 

The front of the CNC'd receivers are about 1 mm too long.

Then add the receiver thickness, if the edge were rolled.

The muzzle fits behind the rolled edge, which is ~1/16" thick.

If you line up the resin muzzle with the front edge of the CNC tube, the offset from a real Sterling: 3/32" or 2.38mm.

Actually, I'm glad this happened...I may take all my receivers to a machine shop to see if I can actually get the front edges rolled.

Here are some measurements to figure out where your muzzle needs to be in relation to the receiver:

 

2_zps3wr3nnbf.jpg

 

 

Good catch! I remember when I was working on the design, the CNC machines were only able to do a radium equal to the thickness of the tube, which is 1.5mm. The original tubes must have been fully rolled as shown, and this will account for the difference in length. If only I could roll the edge in :D Maybe this is something I can look at with the next run of tubes.

 

I've also been thinking about the front nozzle casting.

 

Due to this roll, the measurements I took for the dovetail and the guide hole for the sight cage ended up off and not sitting in the right relation to each other, so in the current tubes I had them move the guide hole back 1.5mm to get better placement of the sight cage. I've noticed however that it looks like the entire dovetail on the tube moved back as well. What this causes is the nozzle to sit in the wrong place. I had to cast a new nozzle block to account for this, but what it does mean is that the tubes you ordered will not work right with a real front nozzle, they are 1.5mm off. Thats a side job, and not to derail this thread, but we can talk about exchanging them when I do my next run in order to be able to use all real parts in your build. Sorry man, I was a but gutted when I discovered this.

 

For the casting of the nozzle as it is, yes, it needs to be reshaped. I wanted to do the nozzle in a single part mold and in order to do this, I had to fill in the back end.

 

Once I fix the front end of the tube in the next run I will make it a 2 part mold and make a 1:1 copy of the nozzle. At the same time as I fix this, I wil see what can be done to get the nose rolled so the nozzle can slide in from the back and sit in place on it's own like the original.

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If only I could roll the edge in :D Maybe this is something I can look at with the next run of tubes.

 

Due to this roll, the measurements I took for the dovetail and the guide hole for the sight cage ended up off and not sitting in the right relation to each other, so in the current tubes I had them move the guide hole back 1.5mm to get better placement of the sight cage. I've noticed however that it looks like the entire dovetail on the tube moved back as well. What this causes is the nozzle to sit in the wrong place. I had to cast a new nozzle block to account for this, but what it does mean is that the tubes you ordered will not work right with a real front nozzle, they are 1.5mm off. Thats a side job, and not to derail this thread, but we can talk about exchanging them when I do my next run in order to be able to use all real parts in your build. Sorry man, I was a but gutted when I discovered this.

 

At the same time as I fix this, I wil see what can be done to get the nose rolled so the nozzle can slide in from the back and sit in place on it's own like the original.

 

Honestly, I PREFER the tubes as they are right now - it provides the builder with options.

The builder can get the front edge rolled or get rid of the excess 1mm on a belt sander.

Purchasing a pre-rolled tube would be a nice option though...

 

Sorry to derail your beautiful build Tino, but you're paving the way for other builders by discovering these things!

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On 09/01/2016 at 1:53 PM, Bulldog44 said:

Looks fantastic Tino. Parts are a perfect fit, work of a master!

Well Brian, in this case Aaron and Derrek are the true masters. I only combined and installed the parts.

 

On 09/01/2016 at 2:33 PM, usaeatt2 said:

(...)  Right now, cutting the Phoenix Props casting (as you did) is the only way to install the barrel, but doing so eliminates the crescent shaped "block" on the inside of the muzzle.

See the reference picture showing the inside of the muzzle...that block maintains proper barrel spacing.

You could maybe cut several crescent shapes from styrene sheet and build them up to reestablish the spacing.   (...)

As discussed in our private messages, that crescent shaped "block" inside the muzzle sits above the barrel and therefore has no effect on the spacing issue.

Anyway - with that latest reference photo, you (again) managed to massively support this build. Thank you very much! You should get a nick name like “Combat Photographer” or something  ;) The longer CNC receiver clearly caused the placement issue for that inner barrel and I soon post a workaround to fix this.

 

On 09/01/2016 at 3:01 PM, jkno said:

A superb build. I really like your attention to details T-Jay!

Thank you very much, Sergiu. Happy to have “Dracula’s neighbor” stopping by ;)

 

On 09/01/2016 at 8:59 PM, divotdan said:

I want to be like Tino when I grow up. Looking forward to each update.

Pardon? On your current profile picture you already look grown-up, Dan  :lol:  Or is that not you?

 

On 09/01/2016 at 11:57 PM, Lichtbringer said:

Your efforts and attention to all those details is stunning.  :jc_doublethumbup:

Thank you very much, Michael. I am indeed happy about the FISD responding so positive to this build.

 

On 10/01/2016 at 12:21 AM, Sith Lord said:

To get a true E-11 replica, I guess you have to start with a true Sterling replica. You're well on your way Tino!

Thanks Ian. Glad to see you like it. This build is truly dedicated to the original Sterling and will later cover the additions for the E-11 like it was used in the movie…

 

On 11/01/2016 at 7:14 PM, Dday said:

(...)   Once I fix the front end of the tube in the next run I will make it a 2 part mold and make a 1:1 copy of the nozzle. At the same time as I fix this, I wil see what can be done to get the nose rolled so the nozzle can slide in from the back and sit in place on it's own like the original.

Like mentioned in our email conversation, this probably has never been done before. So, things like that can happen. The good news is I soon post a way to fix it and this might help other builders with the same kit and add-on parts. For the pipe correction, I would just go the easy way and shorten the front end (with moving the dovetail backwards). The effect of the rolled tube can be recreated with green stuff between muzzle and receiver. At least this is what I plan to do when getting there…

 

On 11/01/2016 at 9:24 PM, gazmosis said:

I love watching stuff like this develop

Hey Steve! As you meanwhile reduced your activities on the FISD, it even is a bigger honor to have you posting here.  :salute:  Hope you are doing fine and join in again.

 

On 11/01/2016 at 9:26 PM, conkerreloaded said:

I hope to replicate this when I get my Phoenix Props kit! Thanks for paving the way!

Antonio, your completion set is on the way and with Derrek’s kit you then have everything to run a fine build. In case you really want to replicate this one here, you will additionally need Aaron’s (usaeatt2) inner barrel, the spring cup and 2 bullets. I keep fingers crossed for you and will be happy to follow your build.

 

On 11/01/2016 at 10:26 PM, Twnbrother said:

Tino, Great work.

Thanks, Mike. Best regards to the man who lives in Hawaii, where most of us would be happy to spend our summer vacation. You lucky you :P

 

On 11/01/2016 at 11:37 PM, usaeatt2 said:

Honestly, I PREFER the tubes as they are right now - it provides the builder with options.

The builder can get the front edge rolled or get rid of the excess 1mm on a belt sander.

Purchasing a pre-rolled tube would be a nice option though...

 

Sorry to derail your beautiful build Tino, but you're paving the way for other builders by discovering these things!

No need to apologize at all, Aaron. That is exactly what this thread is for. Thank you very much for your help!

 

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Edited by T-Jay
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Corrective Actions on front muzzle:

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This workaround does of course not remove the overlength of the CNC receiver, but it fixes the initial spacing issue with the inner barrel.

 

Yes, the front muzzle is now thicker - but that is just on the inside where nobody can later see this. Good enough for me. :)

Edited by T-Jay
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Tino,

 

Hawaii is a wonderful place to live... the only thing that sucks is the Traffic and the increased cost of everyday items. Gotta love Amazon... mainland prices and free shipping. If you are ever out this way give me a call. I will show you around the Island. I should be here for another 18 months or so. Then Uncle Sam will find someplace else for me to work. I am hoping for Germany.

 

Looking at your build definitely makes me want to copy it. I will do a few things different, but for the most part it will be like yours. When my kit from Dday arrives I will be very busy.....

Edited by Twnbrother
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