TK41715[TK] Posted November 9, 2015 Report Posted November 9, 2015 Hi everyone! I started a full resin doopy doos E11 blaster kit a couple weeks ago. I will post my build soon, but wanted to get some content together first. I have been following most of the mods on the reference post. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/(which is awesome by the way!!!!!) I have recreated the internal bolt and spring, but now have to work on the end cap. In the reference, they mention building up the tabs and carving out the grooves so there is a reinforced end cap to hold the spring pressure back. I see the pictures of the tabs being built up with "green stuff" putty but have a question about how to do so? Does one just put the putty directly on the end cap, let dry, and then shape? Or is it build the tabs from putty and then glue to them onto the end cap? Anyone have any pointers? I assume I will not want to glue the end cap on since I have moving parts inside and may need to access to repair at some point. 1 Quote
T-Jay[TK] Posted November 10, 2015 Report Posted November 10, 2015 Hi Brady, thanks for mentioning the blaster reference. Always glad to see it helps a trooper. You're correct, no glue on the end cap. Usually the spring is made from a 1.8mm wire that looks real but has only minimal spring effect. You can cut the final length as you need it, so there will only be very minimal pressure to the end cap. Some of us used ways to reinforce the 3 locking notches (like you saw with the green stuff), but depending on the quality of your resin parts this might not be necessary. Quote
TK41715[TK] Posted November 10, 2015 Author Report Posted November 10, 2015 Thanks for your work on the reference and thanks for your reply. <br><br> I did make a spring and all, but im still wondering if you woul just apply the green stuff straight to the cap and shape the tabs? Or do I fabricate the tabs and glue them into the end cap? <br><br> My spring isnt that strong, but the end cap is fairly loose and I need to tighten it up regardless. Quote
crisisfilms Posted November 10, 2015 Report Posted November 10, 2015 I cut some small squares of styrene, used solvent to stack 2 to double the thickness since it was fairly thin, then superglued them into place. The size and placement of them is key to making sure the end cap sits correctly, but you can make some minor adjustments with a small file. If I ever get around to starting my build thread I'll post some pics. Quote
charlesnarles Posted November 10, 2015 Report Posted November 10, 2015 (edited) Green stuff is supposed to bond physically, not chemically, to surfaces. It's usually compared to chewed bubble gum so it should stick and hold when sculpted directly onto the part so no glue should be necessary as long as you avoid moisture/oils and powder/dust which make it less sticky to the touch Edited November 10, 2015 by charlesnarles Quote
TK41715[TK] Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Posted November 11, 2015 Thanks for the info all! I am going to attempt the green stuff tonight. What's the worse that can happen? I clean it off and try again. Here goes nothing.... Quote
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