TK 21814 Requesting ANH Stunt Centurion Status [AP][200]

[68Brick[TK]]

Basic Information:

Name: Bradley Davies

LegionID: 21814

Forum Name: 68Brick

Garrison: Canadian Garrison

 

Mandatory Information:

Armor Maker: AP

Helmet Maker: AP

Blaster Maker: Dday (Phoenix Props) Kit

 

Optional Information: 
Height = 5’11’’
Weight = 190lbs
Boots = TK Boots (Size 11)
Canvas belt = TKittell
Hand Plates = Trooperbay
Electronics = TK Products
Neck Seal = Darman
Holster = AP

Thigh Garter = Pencap510

Mic Tips = Keith

Helmet Fans = Evilboy

TD Clips = Evilboy

S-Trim = Trooperbay

Inner Drop Boxes = KW Designs

Hard Hat Liner = Trooperbay

 

And now some pics...

 

Front

 

Back

 

Left

 

Right

 

Ab/Kidney Buttons

 

Hand Plates

 

Shoulder Bridges Back

 

Shoulder Bridges Front

 

Thigh Pack Attachment

 

Knee Plate

 

Drop Box Back

 

Cod Plate

 

Interior Strapping

 

Kidney Notches

 

Forearms

 

Helmet Front

 

Helmet Sides

 

Helmet Back

 

Hovi Mic Tip Detail

 

Lens Color

(yes those are a pair of glasses mounted in there!)

 

S-Trim

 

Blaster Right

 

Blaster Left

 

Neck Seal

 

Thermal Detonator

 

Holster & Belt

 

Miscellaneous Pics

 

Thank you for your consideration.

[Sly11[Admin]]

Hi Bradley, thanks for your application.

ukswrath and I will be reviewing the current round of applications over the next couple of days, thanks for your patience.

[Sly11[Admin]]

Hi Brad, thank you for your Centurion application, lets go through it.

 

CRL and Centurion Application Requirements:

Thank you for supplying a complete set of images as per the Centurion Photo Check list, it makes the review process just that  little bit easier  for ukswrath and myself.

Thanks for fixing some of the things Gazmosis mentioned in your EIB application, but there are some parts that will require attention before we can move forward and award you the Centurion badge, so lets get to the specifics.

You have made a great set of side shims, however you do need to fill the extra seam you've created. The only seam visible should be where the Ab and kidney plates meet. As worded in the CRL (A single visible seam line is present)

Generally, the best way to fill the seam line is to use an ABS paste. This is made by mixing small off cuts of ABS with acetone. The pieces of ABS melt and become a sticky paste, which can be applied with a small modeling spatula, or ice cream stick. When the paste has hardened, it needs to be sanded back, moving from a medium coarse to a fine sand paper, then finally a wet n dry, and a polish. I beleive Gaz also mentioned in your EIB app, that white caulk could also be used

There are many Troopers here on FISD who have made the ABS paste, so I am sure you will have plenty of help when it comes to how best make and apply it.

We would also like the gap between your shoulder bell tops and the shoulder bridges reduced, as these should be almost, if not touching.

 Shortening those top straps will fix this simply.

 

Seams to be filled.

 

 

 

 

Other-Armor Assembly/Fit:

Overall, your armor fits you very well, excellent job all round you have plenty to be proud of.

We do have a question regarding your shin cover strip width. They should be 20mm, yours look very narrow, maybe only 15mm. It could be deceiving due  to the visible ridge line either side, please let us know.

You are almost there, those two things and the badge is yours, please let us know if you require any assistance.

[68Brick[TK]]

Thanks Andrew for reviewing my application so quickly. I appreciate your level of scrutinization and attention to detail. It really ensures that the elite group of FISD Centurions are all on par with eachother, and on the highest standard.

 

I'll shorten my shoulder bell straps and fill my shim joints in the coming week, and then take some new pictures. I beleive my shin cover strip widths may be a little thinner than 20mm. For me, I know it was tough to get a consistant reveal against the ridge line on the shins while maintaining things looking "straight". That along with sanding everything probably made them below spec.. I'll measure them and let you know.

 

Thanks,B.

[68Brick[TK]]

I still have to take a picture of my new shoulder bell positions, but here are a couple of my reworked kidney plate. I've created a groove and caulked it, finishing it with some gloss white paint. Please let me know what you think.

I might hit the joint again with some more gloss white paint if OK'd by you. If my caulking solution is not acceptable, I'll move on to a more involved solution.

 

As for my shin cover strips, they measure between 16.5 and 15mm in width depending on where I measure. Please let me know if this slight deficiency will impact my Centurion application/approval.

 

I'll post up pics of my shoulder bells on the weekend. Thanks again.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Hey Brad excellent looking build you have here  . Before becoming a DO, and even now, I spend a great deal of time here and outside of the FISD helping and encouraging others in their builds. The most difficult time for me is when I ask someone to make a change in an area that a lot of hard work had been put into it. The areas Sly and myself have requested corrections, though a slight step backwards shouldn't be too difficult.

 

Regarding the shim seams, they will need to be filled in so that they appear seamless. There can only be one seam on each side, and that is where the kidney and/or kidney shim meets the ab. There's a few ways you can go already mentioned by Sly, others are bondo, putty or caulking though may crack over time.  

 

The leg cover strips are to be 20mm, except for the calves which are 25mm. We normally don't sweat this too much unless something doesn't look right and in this case the gap between the cover strip and the forward return edge is pretty significant. The goal here is for the cover strips to follow as close as possible with the return edge.

 

Our goal is here is to help you look your best.  

 

Again, as Sly has mentioned once you make those corrections and post some new shots the badge is ready for you. Let us know if we can be of assistance.

[68Brick[TK]]

Thanks for the quick review Tony. Yeah, I'm a little bummed that I've got to rework some things, but you're right, it'll be better in the end.

 

I want to stay away from painting the entire kidney plate (bondo & putty are out), so I'll be moving forward with the abs paste method.

 

I'm a little concerned on how much sheet abs cuttings I've got left to make new coverstrips for my shins. Time to check my bin.

 

I'll submit new pics when I'm done making white dust and have everything re-assembled. Wish me luck!

[Sly11[Admin]]

Judging by the quality of your build, I have no doubt you will do a great job of these mods.

 

 

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[68Brick[TK]]

Thanks Andrew. I've done a test with the abs paste and will be attempting the real deal today. I've remade my shin cover strips and have re-aligned my shoulder bells (moved a snap location). Below are the pics for those fixes. When I get my paste laid, sanded and buffed, I'll take another few pics and post them up.

[Sly11[Admin]]

Perfect Brad, looking forward to seeing the shims complete. Great work so far.

 

 

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[ukswrath[Staff]]

Very nice!

[68Brick[TK]]

It looks like my armor has started to yellow already! My ABS paste is a little whiter than my kidney plate. I'm pretty happy with my first real abs adventure. Pics below...Let me know what you think...

[68Brick[TK]]

Let me know if I should take some new full armor pics showing all the changes.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Yes please 

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Looking good, Brad!!  

 

Keep at it, you've got this!!

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

GREAT job on the fixes, Brad!  If I could suggest something, (if you haven't done it already), it would be to add a strip of ABS on the inside of the shim seams where you used the ABS paste for added protection against the seam cracking in the future.  I can see that Centurion badge under your name in no time, and looking forward to welcoming you to the ranks!

[68Brick[TK]]

Thanks Joseph! And yes, I already have an ABS reinforcing strip on the inside. It should be rock solid now! Thanks for the suggestion!

[68Brick[TK]]

New Pics...

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Damned fine set of armor building, Brad, you should be proud of it.

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Well, the main thing that hits me when i look at your armor is, you've done a spectacular job building it but it is sploit by your poor arm strapping.

I very much insist on that point, even more when it concerns a Centurion application, but there should not be ANY kind of gap between the top of your forearms and the bottom of your biceps. I see you have no straps between your forearms and biceps which is the solution to solve that problem. Basically, you just glue a strap between the biceps and forearm making sure they're touching each other, and then you position the elbow joint at the same level than your own elbow, and this gives you the level where your biceps should be standing before strapping them with the shoulder bells (not necessary).

If you're concerned about your arm flexibility being reduced with that proper strapping, don't worry, this strap comes into play only when you arms are at rest. As soon as you flex the arms, they leave your forearm sliding forward if needed.

Edited November 9, 2015 by The5thHorseman

[68Brick[TK]]

You make a good point Germain. I'm making some straps right now and will post up some new new pics. Thanks for the suggestion,

[68Brick[TK]]

Straps made. Suit up!

[A Master Builder]

Everything is in order !

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Thank you so much Brad! It's looking way much better now

[Sly11[Admin]]

You nailed it with the fore arm adjustment .

Please stand by and we will look at your final application.

 

 

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