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Team Armor Build [NE]: ESB in Northern California


Haribon72

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  • 3 weeks later...

Drumstrooper helping out with the boots (converting them to white).

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I bought the angelus paint and satin finish did you use acetone first before painting the boots and did you use a finisher?

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Hello ComradeDave,

 

Dave's Question:

"I bought the angelus paint and satin finish did you use acetone first before painting the boots and did you use a finisher?"

 

Yes, please use acetone to remove the shine on the black boots and then use a light sand paper to open up the surface.

If you have some old socks or rags, cut them up and use the rags to wipe off the black finish on the boots.

 

We used regular model paint brushes (from Michaels) and small paint brushes (from Home Depot).

This will help the white paint absorb into the boots.   Let us know on your progress.  

 

Walter

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Awesome thanks walter this will help a lot! One more question did you use the Angelus on the fabric or did you use a white fabric paint?

 

Dave, we used the Angelus leather paint on the boots only.   Allow couple hours between coats to dry.    

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and no finisher just to be clear?

 

That is correct.   No finisher.    The boots will undergoing normal wear and tear like the movie.    As of today, the boots are already showing signs of use.   The paint is still there, but that's the nature of painted boots.    Sorry I don't have current pictures.    

 

Now, if you're goal is to have clean white boots all the time, I would suggest to purchase boots from TK Boots = http://www.tkboots.com/

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that's ok, I feel dumb I wasted money though lol

 

Hello Dave, don't feel bad.   Its best to be over prepared than not ready.     Just hold on to the finisher.   It may serve you well later in the future.  =)

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  • 2 weeks later...

I saved this entire thread as a pdf and am using it religiously in my build! and I think I might start on my boots tonight :)

...did you manage to save the whole thread at once or did you have to it message by message.
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...did you manage to save the whole thread at once or did you have to it message by message.

No I printed the webpage, but instead I I saved as pdf. I printed each page of the thread and then combined them in acrobat pro

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So happy our thread is helping troopers.     :duim:

 

Some exciting news in our part of the galaxy.

We're starting our team builds again this coming spring.

Some builds will be new and other builds will be "continuing where we left off".

 

Stay tuned.  =)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Back in the saddle again!    After a long holiday break and a couple months off, we're back to the build. 

 

A special thank you to Sabrye (JC) for donating the resin M38 scope!   

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Edited by Haribon72
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This is a beautiful resin cast of the original M38 scope.    Here's the preparation before installing it. 

I'm using a utility knife and an X-acto knife to remove the casting marks.   Then I will use 3M sandpaper - P150 Medium Smooth to give it the final touches.   

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Adding blue painters tape to the bottom of the scope.   We want to keep the resin cast so that its adheres to the cement.

I didn't have any matte spray paint, so I'm using cheap semi-gloss paint I had in the garage.    We'll be weathering down the scope and blaster in the end. 

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Added five coats of paint.  Its winter in California and I had to let the paint set in between coats.  Here's the finished look.

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I'm going to let it set overnight before I install it to the blaster.    

 

Reviewing the CRL on the ESB blaster.    Making our way through the punch list. 

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Have a great evening all!

Edited by Haribon72
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Next, we will slice off the debris and sand the bottom of the resin cast and the cut area of the blaster rail.   We want to make sure we have a good adhere between the scope and rail area.

I will be using Weld On 771 ABS cement (this is available on Amazon.com only).   

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Grab some coffee stir sticks from your local Starbucks or coffee house.   They make a great tool to help apply the cement to your work.

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Tape it down for the night.    Allow to set overnight.

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Later in the week, we will weather down the blaster with fellow garrison member "Drumstrooper".

 

In addition, we will add the scope decals from Trooperbay.

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I had a question last year about cement.     I don't like E6000 because of the smell...period.    E6000 is widely used here, but the odor is too powerful for our household.   Its made specifically for jewelry making using small daps.    I use Weld On because this stuff is low VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) and gives an extremely strong bond for ABS.   After it dries, it doesn't have that foul order smell.  

 

After two hours, you can remove the clamps / magnets from your armor and check the bond.    It's best to let the cement set overnight (recommended).   For the sake of our team builds, this has proven very useful.   This is a personal preference only and my contribution to the armor making world.    First timers, please use small amounts first to prevent residue.   If you end up with residue after it dries, simply scrap off the dried cement using an xacto knife or piece of ABS scrap.

 

Here's the bottle I use for those that are interested.

 

Weld On 771 ABS.    

Available on Amazon.com only.  I could not find this at any local hardware store in our city.

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Edited by Haribon72
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Hello Dave, the other garrison members and Omar worked on the helmet and lense instalation and forgot to take pics. They fitted the lenses, custom cut to size, drilled the holes and used the same screws that hold the ears to hold the lenses. S<br>

That's what I remembered.

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