Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hey Mike,

Coming along. You are moving at a much faster pace then when I did mine. :duim:

 

1- Webbing 1 in wide ( black) I found some at Joannes today just wanted to make sure that it doesn't have to be a specific thread count or anything ?

- no specific thread count. Are these going for the sides of your back and Abs?

 

2- White elastic for shoulders not sure of the width ??
- I used some 1" wide elastics I found at Walmart. Just remember to fold over the ends and sew them before attaching them.<br>

 

3- Ordered rivet set from Echo , do I need any more ????
- The side rivet sets from Echo is enough to complete your armor.

4- Returns on bicep remove on bottom leave a little on top?
- I would leave some return on the bottom of the bicep to give the illusion of thickness. The top of the bicep would depend on whether or not they are visible from under the shoulder bells.

 

Take a look at this ESB screen capture to see what I mean.

ESB_Stormtrooper.jpg

This TK has some really long arms that the biceps tops are peeking out from under the shoulder bells, so if you are like this guy, then Yes, I would leave some return edge. Otherwise, if you remove them no one would see it anyways under the shoulder bells. ;)

Edited by toybiz
Posted (edited)

Oh and your build is looking awesome btw. :jc_doublethumbup:

Thank you Sir !

 

Wait a minute.... you got trading cards from Tony?????????

 

Where's mine?????????????? :laugh1:

 

As for the lower legs, I think you're fine.

 

Lol ! Walter I can share my cards with you . :-)

 

 

 

Hey Mike,&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;

Coming along. You are moving at a much faster pace then when I did mine. :duim:1- Webbing 1 in wide ( black) I found some at Joannes today just wanted to make sure that it doesn't have to be a specific thread count or anything ?&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;

- no specific thread count. Are these going for the sides of your back and Abs? 2- White elastic for shoulders not sure of the width ??&lt;br&gt;

- I used some 1" wide elastics I found at Walmart. Just remember to fold over the ends and sew them before attaching them.&lt;br&gt;

3- Ordered rivet set from Echo , do I need any more ????&lt;br&gt;

- The side rivet sets from Echo is enough to complete your armor.&lt;br&gt;

4- Returns on bicep remove on bottom leave a little on top?&lt;br&gt;

- I would leave some return on the bottom of the bicep to give the illusion of thickness. The top of the bicep would depend on whether or not they are visible from under the shoulder bells. Take a look at this ESB screen capture to see what I mean.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;

www.starwarshelmets.com/2009/ESBtroops and lobot.jpg&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;

This TK has some really long arms that the biceps tops are peeking out from under the shoulder bells, so if you are like this guy, then Yes, I would leave some return edge. Otherwise, if you remove them no one would see it anyways under the shoulder bells. ;)

Thanks Adam , I m still working on that shopping list . I figured I can trim return edges as I get closer to fitting still waiting on boots to arrive will continue on more pieces of the puzzle. Thanks for all your help and advice . Edited by Superbee 70
Posted

Here's a few items I picked up today still waiting on rivets

 

image_52.jpg

 

These came in the AM kit where would I use these, or should I even use them?????

 

image_51.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Here's a few items I picked up today still waiting on rivets

 

image_52.jpg

 

These came in the AM kit where would I use these, or should I even use them?????

 

image_51.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 I used the screws insetad of rivets for my Ab-plate and for the knee-ammo-pack. I did this because I was in the progress of losing weight when building and will replace them and my first strapping as a "winter-project" just right for the EP7 release :)

 

Apart from that, i see no place on the AM where these could be useful

Posted

Well I'm still waiting for some stuff to come in but today was like Christmas!

 

image_54.jpg

 

image_53.jpg

 

image_55.jpg

 

image_57.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

OK guys I'm at a little bit of a standstill I got my belt ready to put pack on and found that I have two belts and they're both different sizes so I'm going for ESP century and which one do I use???? One is approximately 4 inches wide with recesses to cover rivets second one is three and three-quarter inches wide and totally flush a little confused thanks ?

 

 

image_59.jpg

 

image_60.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Use upper ammo belt and far right rivet covers.

 

1) Outer mounting holes are to be centered between the last box edge and the edge of the belt. (in grey)

2) 1mm-2mm from upper and lower bex edge to belt edge (in red)

3) Find horizontal center, measure out 1-1/2" each direction to establish 3" cloth belt width. (in green)

4) Chamfer corner edges 45 degrees from outer most belt edge to 3" cloth belt edge. (in blue)

 

Michael-crop.jpg

Posted (edited)

OK so I've been busy doing some other stuff but things are starting to roll in here's what came today!

 

Boots purchased here in for sale section

 

image_66.jpg

 

Shipment from hyperfirm came in!

 

image_65.jpg

 

image_67.jpg

 

image_69.jpg

 

And assorted snaps and snap installation tools and rivets

 

image_70.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Superbee
  • Like 1
Posted

I seem to be having a problem installing the snaps on my canvas belt possibly I'm doing them wrong or they just don't hold strong enough like I would think they would review pictures and let me know what you think?

 

image_73.jpg

 

image_72.jpg

 

image_71.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Honestly I couldn't tell you because I went with the regular heavy duty snaps from Joanne Fabrics for the belt because they were hidden behind it, I chose not to go screen accurate since I had a supply of them. Are they pulling out of the belt or simply not staying snapped together?

Posted

I followed toybiz's example. Look to see if you damaged the springs that normally grab the male snap. May have been damaged in assembly?

Posted

they pull apart very easy when installed , and even when not installed > i ll just get some new ones that hold more to my liking .  Could I just us Tandy Line 24 s I have a large supply of those ???

Posted

Yes, the Tandy 24 would be fine. Those are similar to the ones from Joannes fabric. Does require drilling a hole.

Posted

I'm still building and not approved but that's what I did. My only change was to use a dritz backer as my line 24s have too long a post and had a tendency to bend.

Posted

they pull apart very easy when installed , and even when not installed > i ll just get some new ones that hold more to my liking .  Could I just us Tandy Line 24 s I have a large supply of those ???

 

I don't have a problem with mine. I only use them as a guide anyways, once the belt is in place and tight everything remains fixed. The "S" snaps are not as strong as standard snaps like most people use these days however, they are the movie used snaps. On another note neither type has any effect on approvals.

Posted

Thanks for all the help guys I've decided to pick up some new snaps . For me to have it snap and hold firmly will make me feel better in the long run at this point I have setting tools for all types of different snaps, I've been collecting them . And using the line 24 snaps on the webbing , I've had to take and grind the post down a little bit to make them work correctly , They seem to be made for a little Thcker fabric but they work fine if you grind the main post down .

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

OK now that the holidays are over lets get back to the build. Working on the butt and rear backpiece decided to do it in a two snap system in the pictures you can see that I made a little jig to help line everything up and use the soldering iron to make my holes. Measured from centerline to centerline and my nest about 3 mm so when I snapped everything in it was nice and tight.

 

.image_76.jpg

 

image_77.jpg

 

image_78.jpg

 

image_79.jpg

 

image_80.jpg

 

Moving to the Back piece, I noticed if I Clampett tight to measure for straps that it causes the backpiece to curve away from the center is this common or should I make my straps a little loose???

Pics below.

 

image_82.jpg

 

image_81.jpg

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Also I went back and revisited the helmet as the brow line originally was just too low for me and trim the ears a little closer and also modified the markings for ESB . Also picked up some welding shield material starting to cut out for the eyes .

 

image_83.jpg

 

image_84.jpg

 

image_86.jpg

 

image_85.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Moving to the back piece......

 

 

Yea he's back lol. Keep your straps tight you can always readjust later.

Posted

I'm impressed with the snap jig! Great idea to keep things in check.

 

I also like the side slanted brow trim cuts. If I were to replace my brow trim, that's how I would do it too. :duim:

 

Keep up the meticulous work! See you at the finish line soon! :smiley-sw013:

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...