Superbee[TK] Posted October 5, 2015 Report Posted October 5, 2015 (edited) Recently I started a thread in ANH but have decided to go ESB.The kit is a AM 2.0 . So here we go!Started on the helmet let me know what you think. Letting the black dry as I will be cleaning it up and starting the gray tomorrow.My question is do you think I need to trim the ears to a lower profile? Mandatory Information Name = Michael Howard TK ID = FISD Forum Name = Superbee Garrison = Golden Gate Garrison Armor = AM 2.0 Helmet = AM 2.0 Blaster = HyperFirm Height = 6'1" Weight = 235 LBS Boots = TK Boots Canvas belt = TKittell Hand Plates/ Gloves = AM / Chemical Rubber Electronics = Acker & iComm Neck Seal = Darman Holster = Darman Edited December 3, 2015 by Superbee Quote
Superbee[TK] Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Posted October 5, 2015 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
Superbee[TK] Posted October 5, 2015 Author Report Posted October 5, 2015 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
BenFriday77[501st] Posted October 5, 2015 Report Posted October 5, 2015 (edited) They painting Looks good so far! Well done. Did you use the decals that were sent with your kit? I used them on my ESB Bucket and realized after finishing it they were ANH style! Does anyone of the more experienced ones know if this can be an issue for approval? I believe it will be, yes? Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk Edited October 5, 2015 by BenFriday77 1 Quote
toybiz[TK] Posted October 8, 2015 Report Posted October 8, 2015 (edited) Great to see your build on FISD Mike! Plus another ESB TK for our garrison too <br> I think you are on the right track so far. The helmet is the toughest part and rightfully so, as it is the one part people look at the most, so just take your time.<br> Any slight over paint can be cleaned up with the tip of a toothpick dipped in paint thinner if necessary. That's what I did to sharpen up any details.<br> The ears should be fine for basic 501st approval. Keep up the great work. Edited October 8, 2015 by toybiz Quote
Superbee[TK] Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Posted October 10, 2015 Great to see your build on FISD Mike! Plus another ESB TK for our garrison too <br> I think you are on the right track so far. The helmet is the toughest part and rightfully so, as it is the one part people look at the most, so just take your time.<br> Any slight over paint can be cleaned up with the tip of a toothpick dipped in paint thinner if necessary. That's what I did to sharpen up any details.<br> The ears should be fine for basic 501st approval. Keep up the great work. Thanks Adam , you have bin a great help and also Tony and Chris . Thanks guys . Quote
Superbee[TK] Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) Detonator help please ! <br><br><br> The blue tape indicates 1 1/16 inch aluminum clips that I do not have yet but they are exact measurement . The overall length of the detonator is 7 5/8 inch . Detonator controls are straight from manufacture to me it looks narrow , as it does not overlap the blue tape halfway on each side . Is this a problem ????? Edited October 10, 2015 by Superbee 70 Quote
Superbee[TK] Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) I've also started trimming on my forearms let me know if this looks like I'm going to be cutting too much out the one on the right is original one on the left has been trimmed. Edited October 10, 2015 by Superbee 70 Quote
Superbee[TK] Posted October 10, 2015 Author Report Posted October 10, 2015 (edited) Someone asked me in another post what tools I'm using to cut out helmets and other parts of armor here's a pic! Edited October 10, 2015 by Superbee 70 Quote
Superbee[TK] Posted October 13, 2015 Author Report Posted October 13, 2015 Ok fellows it took a little time but I've made my first cuts !!!! Started the forearms , Does this look right ?????? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
toybiz[TK] Posted October 13, 2015 Report Posted October 13, 2015 (edited) Hi Mike,<br> They look about right, but it's all about how they fit on your arms. I personally believe armor isn't designed to be a second skin but it shouldn't look like there's room for a jacket either.<br> The wrist area should have all the return edges removed and a small lip on the elbow side to give the illusion of armor thickness.<br> Keep up the great work and take your time! Edited October 13, 2015 by toybiz 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 13, 2015 Report Posted October 13, 2015 Yep. Looking good Mike. Also, what Adam said lol Quote
Haribon72[TK] Posted October 14, 2015 Report Posted October 14, 2015 They painting Looks good so far! Well done. Did you use the decals that were sent with your kit? I used them on my ESB Bucket and realized after finishing it they were ANH style! Does anyone of the more experienced ones know if this can be an issue for approval? I believe it will be, yes? Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk Hello! I found these references on Starwarshelmets.com. You should be fine. Quote
Haribon72[TK] Posted October 14, 2015 Report Posted October 14, 2015 The author, Jez, did a great article on the ESB helmet. http://www.starwarshelmets.com/newESBChristies.htm Hello Michael, great start on your ESB build. We'll be following you to the finish line! Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 14, 2015 Report Posted October 14, 2015 Looks like you have the guidance of your garrison mates 1 Quote
Haribon72[TK] Posted October 14, 2015 Report Posted October 14, 2015 Garrison online tech support! 1 Quote
Haribon72[TK] Posted October 14, 2015 Report Posted October 14, 2015 (edited) Detonator help please ! <br><br><br> The blue tape indicates 1 1/16 inch aluminum clips that I do not have yet but they are exact measurement . The overall length of the detonator is 7 5/8 inch . Detonator controls are straight from manufacture to me it looks narrow , as it does not overlap the blue tape halfway on each side . Is this a problem ????? Michael, if you haven't ordered TD clips yet.... please reach out to Tony (UKSwrath). You should be able to get them pretty quick. Here's a game plan for your TD: 1. Measure the grey pipe to 7.5 inches and mark it. 2. Minus 0.25 inch, mark it, and cut the pipe. This will leave at the 7.25 inch mark. 3. Add the end caps and that will give you the 7.5 inch requirement. 4. Add the TD clips, drill the pilot hole, and install the screws. 5. At this point, you can gauge the TD controller plate like this . . . Here's an original TD from LFL archives. Edited October 14, 2015 by Haribon72 Quote
Superbee[TK] Posted October 14, 2015 Author Report Posted October 14, 2015 Thanks for chiming in Walter I really could use your help ? I'm on the local list for mentorship . ( hopefully not for too long ) I've got Tony Adam and Chris all on speed dial on my phone ! Lol! <br> My problem is that the centerpiece on the thermal detonator is too short I will probably have to add a little shimming to it to get it to the right length to match the center of the screws . I'm going to get with Tony and order some clips . i'm still working on my shopping list . I really appreciate all the support in my new long journey , thanks again guys ! 1 Quote
Haribon72[TK] Posted October 14, 2015 Report Posted October 14, 2015 Measure the controller plate and take a pic. We just finished an AM armor and the plate should be good. Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 14, 2015 Report Posted October 14, 2015 For the record, all you need to focus on Michael is the CRL requirements (below). The face plate, tube diameter and end cap width will all vary between armors. Most of these differences won't make a lick of difference with approvals. Thermal Detonator For 501st approval: (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. For level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. 1 Quote
Superbee[TK] Posted October 17, 2015 Author Report Posted October 17, 2015 For the record, all you need to focus on Michael is the CRL requirements (below). The face plate, tube diameter and end cap width will all vary between armors. Most of these differences won't make a lick of difference with approvals. Thermal Detonator For 501st approval: (A.K.A. O2 canister) attaches to the center back of the belt. Detonator consists of an all grey cylinder, without silver stickers or silver paint. The cylinder is between 2” (50mm) and 2.68"(68mm) in diameter with white end caps on each end. The white control panel pad faces upwards, with the controls/round washer style detail closest to the right end cap. The total length is approximately 7.50" (190.5mm). The thermal detonator is attached via metal or metallic-appearing clips, approximately 1" (25mm) wide. For level two certification (if applicable): Thermal detonator belt clips are positioned with little to no gap between the clips and the end caps. Thank you , I've read so much lately , and learning everyday . Quote
Superbee[TK] Posted October 17, 2015 Author Report Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) Here's my progress to date and have been working on a few items when the kids are down thanks for looking Cut and trimmed , first try at paint , I may try again . TD waiting on clips . Edited October 17, 2015 by Superbee 70 Quote
Superbee[TK] Posted October 17, 2015 Author Report Posted October 17, 2015 Cut to 10 mm per side , reuse cut to fill inside . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 17, 2015 Report Posted October 17, 2015 Excellent job Michael! very nice work 1 Quote
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