An ATA for Tampa Bay

[jr1203]

Great updates (and hindsight tips too)!

 

Currently at the same step as you 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Very nice!

[Pencap510]

I like it! Great progress- (and being in the Tampa area is need any help- lmk!)

[wingnut65[Staff]]

Thanks, Justin.  I've seen some other builds include the Hindsight Tips to share some knowledge they have acquired in the build process.  For me, I think I come up with many brilliant ideas, but some of them probably weren't so great in the end. I just don't want to lead anyone else down a wrong path.

 

Thanks for the offer, Ty.  Ken and Joseph have also offered a guiding hands.  I just need to figure out my time available with a busy work schedule and family plans.  Gotta keep the Mrs. content to be able to have hobbies like this.

 

Progress is still being made!

Edited November 5, 2015 by wingnut65

[wingnut65[Staff]]

QUESTION:  SNIPER PLATE BOTTOM EDGE RETURN?

So, I left trimming the bottom edge of the sniper knee plate until the calves were together. I am getting close to mounting this and need to finish trimming it, but I don’t see anything telling exactly how much of a return is correct on the bottom edge. Or even if a return is needed.

I ended up trimming to the pencil line, to leave about 1/8” (3 mm) return. As I try to fit the plate on the calf, the inside corner has cracked.  So I looked to see how others have done this.


As I research more, I see that maybe there isn’t supposed to be a return. On VulpX’s EIB application, it really looks like Richard’s plate sits flush against his calf.

(Nice work Richard and Congrats on EIB #505!)


Do I need a return edge on the bottom of the sniper plate?

Edited May 29, 2019 by wingnut65

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Yes you can, I did on mine for the same reason. It's perfectly acceptable.

[wingnut65[Staff]]

Thanks, Tony.  I'll post the sniper plate update when I can get caugth up...

 

 

Time To Face The Fears and Cut The Ears!

 

Terrell is very gracious with his ATA kits and he provides two sets of ears, just in case…  I am hoping that I don’t have to use the spare set. 

 

Before starting this daunting step, I re-watched TrooperBay’s video, starting with ‘Part 10- How to Assemble a Stormtrooper Helmet’.  Work on the ears goes through video Part 14.

 

I started by marking the visible mold lines in pencil.  I used an X-Acto and scored a line just outside the mold line to give myself room to sand it and fit it to my bucket.  I continued deepening the cut until I felt it was about half way through.

 

I used my aviation snips to cut up to the score line.  I made a lot of cuts so the pieces wouldn’t be too big to snap off.

 

Then just a little pressure to snap off the excess.

 

Sand the disc of the ear perfectly flat using a sanding block and 120 grit sandpaper

 

TIP:  Before I went too far on sanding the disc, I trimmed a notch at top for ear so it would sit flush with additional layer of plastic for the back of shell. The whole back edge of the disc was sanded down thinner than the front of the disc, but not enough to look too thin.

 

Here’s where patience comes in…  I fit the ear to the helmet where it looked right and it covered the seam completely.  Using a pencil, I mark high spots that needed to be removed

 

Then using only the sanding block, I sanded back to the pencil line.  Then it was fit, mark, sand, repeat. I did this multiple times for front and back of each ear.

 

TIP:  Do this next step later, like after you have your lens installation worked out!  Another lesson learned!

 

The ATA kit comes with all the screws for the ears. I was concerned with the extra length and before thinking what I was doing, I trimmed all six screws to the length I thought I needed.  I forgot that I had planned on using the upper screws to hold the lens in place.  Oops!  And I didn’t have any more #6 countersunk machine screws in the workshop!

 

Three screws were used on each ear.  The right ear is the better of the two ears.  Not too bad for an hour and a half work!
(I forgot to take any ear pix after I mounted them, so these are as I was starting to paint.  Please forgive me!)

 

I’m still not completely satisfied with the way the left ear sits, but the little gaps are screen accurate.  It’s just perfectionist in me wants to take this off and fix it.  Since I also want to countersink the screws a little more, I will probably remove the ear and sand it a little more.

 

Next up, Snaps, Straps and Elastic!

Edited May 29, 2019 by wingnut65

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Looking good Jeff

[PiettLives[TK]]

Jeff, your kit looked great last night! Just a few things to tweak and you'll be ready to go. Welcome to the Legion In White my brother!!!

[wingnut65[Staff]]

Thanks, Tony for checking in. It is great for us newbies to know that the Inspector General is looking over our shoulders.  And having a local Imperial Attaché to share some expertise is a Bonus!

 

Thanks, Ken for your time and guidance in helping me joint that magnificent Legion of White!  I have my marching orders (aka, a To-Do list).  I am getting close on the armor, I just need to catch up on my build thread.  Possibly other experts around here would have caught an item or two that you did.

 

Before I move on, just a little update.

 

More Ear Info!
Justin requested a picture of the bottom ear screws and I realized I should also add a few pictures of the screws inside of the bucket.

 

So, here is the left ear.  I will cover the painting in an upcoming post.

 

Seeing the inside of the left ear reminds me what I had to do to get the eye lens installed.  Because I cut my ear screws so short, I had to unscrew the #8 screw that I used to hold the bucket together. I had to push it through the hole and it is now rattling around in the ear disc.  I will re-do the screws when I pull the ears off.

 

The bottom #6 ear screw came close to the #8 bucket holding screw, but they both fit.

 

Outside Right

 

Observations inside the right side:
1.  This shows how I should not have trimmed the back of the helmet so much. I was worried of having the bucket fastening screw pull out if it was so close to the edge of the plastic.  I added a tab of plastic to screw into. Still need to paint it.

 

2.   This also shows how easily the Rust-Oleum Hammered paint will scratch off the ABS if there is no sanding or proper primer under it. I will repaint by spraying into a cup and using a bruch to touch-up.

 

3.  And, this shows how close the bottom ear screw came to the bucket fastening screw.  It works and it is tight, so I’m not that worried, but the perfectionist in me says that I can do it better.  Add that to my To-Do list!

 

Now, as promised…

 

Next up, Snaps, Straps and Elastic!

Edited May 29, 2019 by wingnut65
Updated photo links

[wingnut65[Staff]]

Snaps, Straps and Elastic!

 

Where do you start the daunting task of strapping?  And, when does it end??
Well. I’ve studied many build threads and EIB and Centurion applications to figure out how others have done their strapping.  I’ve looked at many diagrams and pictures and got a better feel for what I was getting into.  

 

Some of the most popular and helpful strapping guides, are the diagrams that Bill Hag has put together. However, I met with my local Imperial Attaché (PiettLives), and he suggested a single elastic strap at the chest-to-ab connection for more flexibility when twisting at the waist.  On this image, I added this option, and I noted where the snaps will connect with notes A to A. B-B, C-C etc.

 

The arms and thighs are pretty straight forward.

 

Now, what kind of straps do I want??
After reading the Making armor "sit able" thread, I decided to use elastic for most of the connections. From discussions with justjoseph63, I decided to go the double strap method, just to have a comfort of a second snap to hold me together. I ended up using his strapping pix as my guide for what I wanted to do.  I started out with 40 of The Tandy Leather, Line 24 Snaps.  Going with double snaps, it didn’t take me long to run out and I had to buy 40 more.

 

Reinforce The Elastic!
I’ve read the suggestions of others to fold over the elastic on the end to help prevent it from pulling off the snap.  I can see how that could be an issue.  Being an engineer, I wanted to see how could I improve on this to prevent my elastic from pulling off the snaps?  If all the stress of pulling the elastic and snap off the armor will stretch the elastic and distort the hole at the snap, then, yes, the snap could eventually pull off the elastic. It would probably happen at the worst moment at a troop far and from any tools.  I came up with a solution that will eliminate that from happening by putting all the pull stress on a non-elastic pull tab.


I made 2” (50 mm) long pull tabs from nylon strapping material and put it under the elastic.  This will make all the pull stress on the tab, go straight to the back of the snap to pull it off. No stresses should be placed on the elastic.  At least, not on the hole to stretch it out of shape.  At least that is the concept.

NOTE: I had issues with the snaps in this picture because the bent over post wouldn’t let the snaps to actually snap. The fix is coming up…

 

Making Straps!

With that design concept in mind, I started creating my straps, tabs and snaps.  Lots of them.  I cut many nylon straps to 2” long and elastic to lengths as needed.  I measured hole locations 15 mm from the end of each piece and used a soldering iron to melt a hole through each. And then I installed the snaps.

 

After cutting each elastic and nylon strip to length, I used a Bic lighter and melted the ends to keep them from fraying.

 

TIP: Don’t Get Scratched!  The melted nylon ends are often very sharp and could snag my black under suit.  Using a small Imperial Attitude Adjuster, I was able to convince them all to be soft again. Kinda like a meat tenderizer, but just to soften the hard nylon clumps!  (Nice action shot!)

 

Using a soldering iron, I melted holes in the elastic and nylon.  BTW, watch your fingers when punching through. I came close, but no scars to show.

 

TIP: Melt - Don’t Punch!  Interesting thing, the rubber bands in the elastic does not melt easily. This really helps in maintaining the strength and elasticity of the elastic over using a punch to cut all these strips.

 

Oh Snap!
I’ve never done any snaps before, so how hard can it be???  Wellllll! Harder than I first thought!  I was able to totally destroy several of my first few snaps.  Since I knew I needed more snaps than I had and these actually were solid, I left them.  (I just hope the D.O. doesn’t inspect the inside of my snaps!)

 

I figured that the small tool I was using to set the snaps, probably was not big enough to split the ends of the post.  So, I came up with a way to persuade them to split a little easier.  I used my smallest wire cutter to cut, or at least, score the sides of the post. 

 

I then used a Phillips head screwdriver bit to start the post opening in the right direction. 

 

Then using my small snap flaring tool, I just finish it off. Since I started doing them this way, I have not made another bad snap.  (You may have better tools or much better luck than me and you may not need to do this step)

 

Help, My Snaps Won’t Snap!
When testing the strapping, I had issues with several snaps where the female ends would not click onto the male side, no matter how hard I tried.  I found a lag bolt that would fit just inside the female side of the snap. Using the Imperial Attitude Adjuster, I pounded down the post a little more.  Problem solved!

 

Making Snap Plates!
From the excess plastic sheet I had left after cutting all the cover strips, I cut a bunch of single and double snap plates.  There is much discussion on the forum as to which is better – plastic back plates, or nylon back pates.  I think I chose plastic since that is what I saw on a few of the first build threads I read during my research phase. Also, since I had the extra plastic and would need to buy the nylon strap, this was the cheaper option

 

However, I did need to make a couple nylon snap plates for use on the curves of the chest plate.

 

Tools I Used For Snaps, Straps and Elastic!
Here is the assortment of tools I used for creating all my strapping. Plus a pair of scissors!

 

The actual star-shaped setter and double sided anvil are from a Dritz brand ‘Heavy Duty Snaps/Tool’ kit that is available locally at Jo-Ann’s and Wally World, for less than $7.00

 

And finally, one of the most important tools for making secure snaps, is a solid work surface to pound on. This is really not the task to do on your kitchen table.  I use a block of steel as my backing block. I set that on a piece of wood so I don’t damage my wooden stool. With this setup, no matter how hard I hammer, I will not knock stuff off my workbench.

 

Just so this post doesn’t become too long, I’ll take a break here.

 

Next up, Installing the Snaps and Rivets!

Edited May 29, 2019 by wingnut65
Update photo links

[Airborne Trooper[501st]]

Looking good and that's a smart idea adding the nylon pieces. I used ABS squares in between a folded end of elastic. Looks like you have a nice system in place!

[wingnut65[Staff]]

Thanks, Jason.  It is all an idea now that I hope works out.
 
Installing the Snaps and Rivets!
I am aiming for Centurion, which includes installing several rivets in screen-accurate locations.  I purchased the correct split and double-cap rivets and washers from echo’s ongoing sale thread in the Imperial Commissary.  For placement on the sides, I found this image to be very helpful for locating the top and bottom rivets 20 mm from the top and from the bottom ridge. For the middle ones, I just centered them between the two end ones.  So, the 52 mm and 53 mm dimensions may be off a little, based on the armor product you have. 

NOTE:  Since the back ab plate is taller than the front, the bottom right rivet must be opposite the front rivet, NOT 20 mm from the bottom of the back ab plate!
 
Not wanting to risk getting paint on the armor, I spray painted the rivets before I installed them. (NOTE: Cod rivet does not get painted!)

 
I used a brass washer behind the split rivets and a towel on the workbench so I don’t scratch the white paint. I uses a chisel to get the river splits to start going the way I wanted.

 
Then, using my standard issue Imperial Attitude Adjuster, I persuaded the split ends to bend over.

 
This was as far as I attempted to hammer the rivets down.

 
An 8 mm socket worked perfectly for me to fold over the ends to lock the rivets in place.

 
Using the Bill Hag sketch and justjospeph63’s photos as a guide, the snap plates were glued to the armor with E6000 and clamped overnight.  I had to use three nylon snap plates for curves – two on the chest and one on the cod.  This represents 56 of the 76 snaps that I used.

 
The snap plates on the left side are spaced between the split rivets.  The right side are spaced out evenly on the ab plate.

 
For the thighs, I started with a single snap, centered on the seam, similar to how I did my biceps.  But, then I realized that I wanted to use 2” elastic for the thigh support and I needed to add one more snap plate to each thigh.  Elastic loops will go over a spare black leather belt.

 
Alignment was easy by snapping it to the elastic before I glued it. Then Align, Press and Clamp!


TIP: I should have had the nylon pull tab extend further at the top end, instead of at the bottom. I wasn’t even thinking that my leg will be in this when I try to reach my fingers down to unsnap the strap. I can reach the nylon, but it would have been easier if the extra inch of pull tab was on the top!
 
The shoulder bell strap and the shoulder bridge strap are a little different…  I’ve heard about Troopers needing to replace their elastic shoulder bridge strap because it stretches so much.  I am going to try starting off using 2” white nylon strap, instead of elastic.  The CRL only calls this “white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece”, so either elastic or nylon would be acceptable.  This bridge strap has female snaps at the ends facing upward for the chest and back plates, and a female snap in the middle facing down. (I had to drill out and reverse this one after my first attempt!) I’ve seen some Troopers that have this snap sewed to the bottom of the bridge strap and others use the standard round head snap. The black strap to the shoulder bell will have a standard female snap at one end for the bell, and a male snap on the other end at the bridge strap.  I doubled over the ends of the white nylon before installing the snaps

 
Strapping Summary!
When I post my belt assembly, I will go over the additional snaps and connectors that I used.  So far, it is:
- (74) Line 24 Snaps  -  9/16”(14 mm) diameter cap, 5/16”(8 mm) long post
- (2)  Line 20 Snaps  -  7/16”(11 mm) diameter cap, 3/16”(5 mm) long post
- (6) Threaded Screw Post / Chicago Screw
- (7) Split Rivets

 

UPDATE:  Some of the snaps could not stay together on a few troops. I've changed a few connection points to Industrial Strength Velcro. It MUST be Industrial or it will wear out very quickly...

 
Next up, Belt and Boots!

Edited May 29, 2019 by wingnut65
Updated photo linx

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Looking great, Jeff!  I especially like the last photo, (outstanding)!  With your permission, I would like to add that to my library and use it in the future if you don't mind, (I would give you credit, of course).

[wingnut65[Staff]]

Thanks, Joseph.   Lets give it a couple days to see if anyone catches something incorrect, or inaccurate.  When it is accepted to be accurate, feel free to use it to guide others on the TK Path!

I just now updated the image to add Male and Female to the blue snaps so the count really is two! So, it is getting more correct!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

That's a whole lot of snaps

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

I can't honestly see anything wrong there, Jeff!  Interior strapping is a matter of personal preference, and can be (and has been) done a thousand ways, lol.  It won't affect your EIB or Centurion submissions, (hint hint). 

[wingnut65[Staff]]

That's a whole lot of snaps

 

Agreed!  It took me two trips to Tandy Leather to get them all.  Started with 40 and went back for 40 more.

 

 

I can't honestly see anything wrong there, Jeff!  Interior strapping is a matter of personal preference, and can be (and has been) done a thousand ways, lol.  It won't affect your EIB or Centurion submissions, (hint hint). 

Well, then, feel free to use it.

I'm still working on the finishing touches before its done.  Then I have a DD pipe kit to build.  I don't think I would go very far with a Hasbro Rebles Blaster dart gun...

[wingnut65[Staff]]

Oops! Missed a Couple More Rivets!

 

When talking about rivets, I missed installing the thigh ammo belt rivets!  These are to be double cap rivets that are a little tricky to install, so I hope how I did it can help another Future Trooper with the same task…

 

TIP:  LABEL ARMOR RIGHT AND LEFT - This is also a good time to point out that where all armor pieces are worn is very critical, especially the Calves and Thighs.  Use a piece of tape, a label maker, a Sharpie or just a pencil to mark each piece Right or Left!  This step is where it is needed…

 

I started the thigh ammo belt by getting it formed correctly to the bottom of the RIGHT thigh. It should have the center box centered on the cover strip.  I sat on a stool next to the stove and a pot of boiling water. (I removed the pot from the burner when I was dipping the piece.) 

 

I held it in the boiling water for about 20-30 seconds and then formed and held it in place until it cooled, which was about a minute. I worked on a couple bends at a time, only holding the unbent portion in the water. I continued until it kept the shape of the thigh.

 

I clamped the ammo belt in place and marked where to cut off the ends.  I clearly noted which were the bottom corners that needed to be curved.  I happen to have a can of shoe spray that has a small 2” (50 mm) diameter sitting on the workbench that worked perfectly for this radius. I used my aviation snips to trim it. I sanded the top corners to take the sharp point off.

 

The double cap rivets used to mount the ammo belt for EIB approvals must be painted white on the outside cap.  The color of the inside cap isn’t critical.  I spray painted all my rivets at one time so I wouldn’t have to clean paint off the armor when I tried to paint the edges of the rivets. (They are the two in the back)

 

With the ammo belt clamped in place, I drilled the first hole.  This also helps to explain how this is tricky.  There needs to be a curved anvil or rivet set on both sides of the rivet.  The outside is easy, but the inside needs to go inside the lower thigh ridge.  My curved snap anvil would work fine for the outside, but inside needed a tool.

 

Since these are double cap rivets, both the anvil and the hammer sides need to be curved when hammering. I did not want to go buy a specialty tool for these to rivets if I could find something else that would work.  I found a 1/4” lag bolt in the workshop that has a dimpled end that fits perfectly over the rivet head and would work perfectly to get inside the lower thigh ridge.

 

I put some E6000 glue on the contact points to add strength to the connection. I used a block of wood as a pounding backer and the sanding block to keep the thigh sitting level.  I used the side of my Imperial Attitude Adjuster to fit inside the thigh as I hammered the rivets down.  A couple swift pounds and they were done!

 

Finished rivets are installed in the upper corners and the bottom corners are rounded off.

 

I also added glue around the front of the thigh ridge to keep it secure.  It looks nice from the outside, but a little wonky on the inside. 

 

And now, back to our regularly scheduled program…

 

Next up, Belt and Boots! 

 

edit:   Or, maybe just the Boots and then the Belt! 

Edited May 29, 2019 by wingnut65
Updated Photo Links

[ukswrath[Staff]]

EXCELLENT! 

[wingnut65[Staff]]

I think if I can break the subjects of these posts down, I can get the updates posted more frequently..,
 
Painting the Boots!
 
I know I mentioned that one of the goals of this TK build is to make it as economical as possible. Since this project was never in the family budget, it would be a long wait until the twins graduate from college and the Finance Minister feels that our budget would allow for adding more hobbies. This means that I must compromise and cut a few corners.  One such decision was to purchase the Bass Amsterdam Boots from Amazon Prime, first for the cost, but second for the availability.  These were delivered in two days!  When funding does become available, I will be purchasing the white boots from one of the vetted FISD vendors!  Besides, painting black boots white is screen accurate!
 
I ordered the boots early in the build so I had time to break them in.  I ordered the size I normally wear and they were just a little big in the fit, just enough to install a pair of Dr. Scholl's Massaging Gel Insoles.  These are comfortable!
 
First step was to use acetone to remove the manufacturer’s polish from the leather.  I scrubbed with paper towels and scotch brite pads.

 
When I stopped getting any black off the boots as I scrubbed, I taped up the boots, covering the trim of the soles, the bottom of the soles and the elastic panels.  I probably could have painted the elastic with the same paint, but this is how several other Troopers painted theirs, followed by fabric paint for the elastic. BTW, I had to use standard masking tape to stick to the boots.  The standard Imperial-Issued, Blue Adhesive tape would not hold.

 
This is how they turned out after multiple light coats of Meltonian’s Nu-Life Color Spray. I’ve used this brand before with good success on my daughters’ dance shoes, so we’ll see how it works for TK.  I believe this was about 6 coats.  The newspaper in the uppers allowed me to put my hand inside so I could twist and turn them to get all the areas and seams covered.

 
Using a bottle of Tulip’s Soft Matte White Fabric Paint, from Michaels, I painted the elastic panels and I touched up all the threads and seams that still showed some black.  The shoe on the left has had about 3 coats of paint.  The one on the right has the first coat. I believe it took either 3 or 4 coats of fabric paint to completely cover the elastic.
 
 
Removing the tape on the soles revealed what hopefully will be an acceptable pair of TK boots!


NOTE:  These Bass Amsterdam boots are a little short on the height and I may need to install some straps to keep my calves down over the top of the boots.  I understand that the white TK boots sold by FISD members are taller and are designed for use with TK armor.

I hope my superiors will accept these for fighting the Rebels!

Next up, Finally, Assembling the Belt!

Edited May 29, 2019 by wingnut65
Updated photo links

[PiettLives[TK]]

Jeff, I forgot to mention that to make sure the inside trim of the bottom of the calves has no return edge and is very smooth. Especially with you painted boots, you might even want to line the inside edge with soft Velcro so your armor doesn't scratch up the ankles of your boots.

[wingnut65[Staff]]

You did mention the No Return Policy, I mean, advice for the shins, but I do like the idea of softening the inside edge with the soft Velcro strip.

 

Thanks. 

[wingnut65[Staff]]

Assembling the Belt!
 
Researching the belt system, I found and printed out a lot of reference photos, including this very helpful Bill Hag tutorial diagram.  I’ve added the colored dots to show what and where my fasteners are located.

 
Previously, I had trimmed the corners of the plastic ammo belt, but didn’t trim it to length. The tutorial diagram above says the end is 1.5” (38 mm) from the end ammo box.  The corner dimensions are intended so that the flat end section of the plastic is the same width of the canvas belt. Since I am not proficient yet with a sewing machine, I purchased my white canvas belt from TrooperBay, which is 3” wide.  My angles are close to these dimensions.

 
I started rough trimming the snap covers to the inside corner of the square mold lines, where I have a pencil mark.  Then I sanded the sides so the snap covers would be right at 1” (25 mm) square.  I also sanded the corners round.

 
I want to have the flexibility to be able to remove the plastic from the canvas belt so the belt can be washed.  I don’t know if I ever will need to, but just in case!  I know dirt would just add to the worn look of the armor, but with my luck, I’d get a hug from a kid with a bright red fruit punch…
 
I used threaded studs, aka Chicago Screws, to fasten the plastic belt to the canvas belt.  But, the threaded studs that I had on hand were too long.  They were right about 7 mm long, and I only needed them to be the thickness of the belt and plastic.  The screws were already short enough. NOTE: The left screw has already been cut. The right screw is standard size

 
I found a paint stir stick that was 3 mm thick and I drilled a hole and inserted the stud. The hole was a little small to give a tight fit.

 
Using a hacksaw, I cut the end of the stud off.

 
I used a tapered reamer bit to clean out the opening.  Since it is aluminum, a countersink would also work. I also used 400 grid sandpaper to remove any burrs.

 
I used epoxy and glued the stud end sticking through the face of the ammo belt, facing to the back. I used E6000 to install the cover plates over the studs.  There is one stud on each end and one in the middle of the plastic ammo belt.

 
NOTE:  Wear The Canvas Belt To Locate Holes! - I located and punched a hole in the canvas belt and installed the center screw to lock the plastic ammo belt in place.  From advice I’ve read here on FISD, I put on my lower armor to get the belt to fit properly.  While wearing the white canvas belt over my armor with the plastic ammo belt secured only in the middle, I curved the ammo belt around my waist and had Mrs. w65 mark the locations of the two holes for the end studs.  I punched those holes, inserted the screws through washers and the belt was assembled!  This method of measuring will reduce stress on the plastic and canvas as the belt is worn.

 

Holster Assembly and Mounting!
My holster kit is from Darman, with everything ready to assemble.  I used some research images to see how it goes together and punched the holes in the leather as needed.  To mount the holster to the belt, I started out using the same threaded studs that I have, but that didn’t last long. A couple times on and off and I looked for an alternative.

 

I thought about snaps, but the back needed to look like a rivet to be screen accurate, not a snap back. Further research and I came across our own ukswrath’s ATA TK build thread where he shows step-by-step how he installed the snaps, using rivets!  This is his photo that confirmed that it can be done and convinced me to do the same!   The secret is a large enough rivet on the face and drilling out the snap to take the rivet!  Thanks, Tony!!


Locating the holster was easy using another Bill Hag tutorial diagram.  Since I am going for ANH Stunt, I only need two fasteners.

 
Going through my hardware inventory, I found a box of 3/16” rivets. These have a much more accurate looking larger head than the smaller 1/8” rivets.  Here, the snaps have already been drilled out to the fit the rivets.  NOTE: This is just a staged photo to show the rivet head size.  The head must go on the face of the belt with the snap on this back side.

 
Using a hand rivet tool, I set each rivet until the stem snapped. Don’t Panic with how the back looks, Tony had a solution! 

 
Careful use of a drill took the extra aluminum off the rivet.  I used tape to protect the belt during this step. I used needle nose pliers to hold the flat of the snap while I drilled on very slow speed. 
NOTE: Don’t grab around the sides of the snap or it could get damaged or deformed and not be able to snap!!!

 
When I drilled down far enough, I turned the snap over and used a center punch to punch the mandrel head (the ball) out of the rivet. I drilled a little more until I was convinced that the rivet would not interfere with the function of the snap, while still maintaining enough aluminum for a secure hold.

 
Front of the belt looks pretty convincing!  (Drop box assembly will be next, so just ignore it for now.)

 
View of back of belt!  Adding the snaps to the holster will make it more convenient when packing it all away in the bin.

 
The finished product!  Yes, the drop box does have enough play to slide over to be flush with the outside edge of the ammo belt!

 
Next up, Drop Box Secrets!

Edited May 29, 2019 by wingnut65
Updated Photo Links

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Great ingenuity and attention to detail, Jeff!  I made my ammo belt removable as well so I could switch out from TK (clean) to HWT (battle scars).  I applied several coats of Scotchguard to my TK belt, and it cleans up really well.