Strapping and elastic specifics with snaps

[Curanthir]

I am about to receive my brown box, and am preparing the necessary supplies. What sizes of elastic or webbing are typically used at different parts of the armor? I plan to use almost exclusively belt elastic for added mobility. For the belt, I've heard that canvas-wrapped elastic works well, does canvas-wrapped polypropylene webbing work too? And for the snaps, is there an effective alternative to Tandy snaps that are cheaper but of comparable strength and quality? I've also seen a diagram somewhere of TM's preferred strapping method, does anybody know where I can find that?

 

Another random question, where can I find the standard(ish) assembly procedures for all the various armor parts? For example, which places use rivets or screws instead of glue and why (I'd like to avoid as many screws and rivets as possible for a smoother idealized look). I have seen a lot of build threads, but they usually just show steps without explaining exactly what needs to be done for each part to look and work right.

Thanks!

 

 

EDIT: I found on some leatherworking forums that Durable Dot and Fasnap line 24's are way better than Tandy, and they are a little cheaper as well. If you order over $50(minimum order) on each of their websites, you get 100 full snaps for $20-25 each. So order 200 full sets and you can get some excellent snaps for a great deal.

Edited September 23, 2015 by Curanthir

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

A lot of your supply questions can be answered in my thread here, Jonathan. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31404-supply-list-for-your-tk-build/ As for the belt, are you planning on making it yourself?  If not, you can find an excellent one here,  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/19803-fs-white-canvas-belts/.

For general assembly instructions, trhttp://trooperbay.com/assemble-accurate-stromtrooper-armor/ .

I think perhaps you over ordered on your snaps...  If you use the single snap method, you are going to need no more than 40.  If you use the double snap method, still less than 60.

You also don't have to worry about putting any screws in your armor!  If you are referring to the classic strapping system, it uses small nuts/bolts to hold the brackets on.

The only time you will need rivets is if you are going for EIB or Centurion.  Hope this helps, and have a great time on your build!

[Curanthir]

For the double snapping method many here use, what width of elastic/webbing do you use for the straps? 1 1/2 seems like it may be a bit thin for it, but 2 inch seems way too wide.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

I used the 2 inch, Jonathan, but only for the torso pieces.  (see photo).  I did use the double snap method for the shoulder bell where it attaches to the white elastic chest/back connection, but I used the 1 inch black elastic, putting them lengthwise instead of side by side like the others.  I have enough 2 inch nylon left over for 1 full build if you would like it, (free, I'll even pay postage).  Just PM me if you are interested.  Hope this helps!

 

[Jinsei[TK]]

Joseph

 

With that strapping system, are the snaps that are up against the armor on an ABS plate, or is the nylon just glued directly to armor?

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

The female part of the snaps are attached to a 1 inch by 2 inch piece of the nylon, then CA (super) glued directly on to the armor.  I originally glued the female parts onto small ABS strips, then glued those directly onto the armor, but obviously could not remove them when I switched to the double snap system so I just went over them.  The nylon I sent you should be more than enough to make all the necessary pieces.

 

P.S.  Use a name brand, quality super glue like Zap-a-Gap or the like.  (Trust me on this one).

[troopermaster]

Using male snaps on the nylon (or ABS) tabs is much better since the back is flat compared to the domed shape of the female snap.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

With the snaps I used, it's the male part that is rounded, and the back of the female part is the flat one, so I am guessing it can vary from one manufacturer to another.  Either way, like Paul said, use the one with the flat back to go next to the ABS or nylon.

 

 

[Jinsei[TK]]

I had looked at a couple different build threads, in some they made ABS "snap" plates, while others looked like the nylon was just attached straight onto the armor. Is there any real benefit to putting the snaps on ABS snap plates? It just looks to me (in my inexperience anyway) that it would make it that much harder to fix or alter for changing body sizes.

 

For the superglue is there any to avoid, stuff that could melt ABS?

 

Wait what your sending me nylon?? Haha, I think that's going to Curanthir.

 

Thanks!

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

My experience bears out what you asked Spencer.

I used the webbing for my snap plates specifically because it will form to the shape of the armor no matter where you're gluing it, and ABS - without some additional work - will not form as tightly to curved surfaces.  Further, even if you sand the ABS a bit to rough up the gluing surface, the webbing is far more likely to get a good bond due to the ability of the glue to get into the fibers of it.

[justjoseph63[Staff]]

Oops.. Sorry about the mix up, Spencer!  Tim was spot on when he mentioned that flat ABS plates will not stick to the curved surfaces, and that you should sand down the area prior to attaching anything.  As for gluing the snap plates directly onto the armor, I personally would advise against it.  One reason being is that if the snap should get bent or damaged, you can pop off and/or grind it down without having to worry so much about damaging the actual armor.

[cjdesign[TK]]

I've been using e6000 to assemble the armor. I was going to use abs plates with e6000. Is nylon a better solution? how easy is it to replace if needed. I like the cleaner look of abs snaps. thoughts?

 

 

On 10/1/2015 at 4:01 PM, justjoseph63 said:

The female part of the snaps are attached to a 1 inch by 2 inch piece of the nylon, then CA (super) glued directly on to the armor.  I originally glued the female parts onto small ABS strips, then glued those directly onto the armor, but obviously could not remove them when I switched to the double snap system so I just went over them.  The nylon I sent you should be more than enough to make all the necessary pieces.

 

 

P.S.  Use a name brand, quality super glue like Zap-a-Gap or the like.  (Trust me on this one).

[cjdesign[TK]]

My experience bears out what you asked Spencer.

 

I used the webbing for my snap plates specifically because it will form to the shape of the armor no matter where you're gluing it, and ABS - without some additional work - will not form as tightly to curved surfaces.  Further, even if you sand the ABS a bit to rough up the gluing surface, the webbing is far more likely to get a good bond due to the ability of the glue to get into the fibers of it.

 

nylon webbing!! very easy to attach and remove if you need to change positions. I agree ABS Plates look cleaner but are less forgiving. Besides, you don't see the snaps once the straps are in place anyway.

Edited October 26, 2015 by cjdesign

[TK 22686[TK]]

Does E6000 work instead of CA glue.  CA Glue seems so permanent...at E6000 seems like it would hold, but makes removal easier for any necessary repairs.

[TKZombie[TK]]

I did all my armor with e6000 it works it holds and can be taken apart later. Slow as it takes a full 24 hours to set up so worth it. I used it on my nylon snaps plates too. You'll likely find you need to do fitting adjusted several times after wearing the armor out trooping. Nothing like a 8 hour troop to bring out bad fitting. <br><br>

E6000 all the way!