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Posted

I think I have all my Bondo & initial sanding/grinding/cursing done. I think. I mean there are a few tiny areas where the bondo came off or made bubbles or whatever, despite me following the directions of 17 YouTube videos and all that jazz. Anyway, when I go back to do primer sanding I will fix those tiny little bits. With toothpaste. Hey that dries about the same as bondo. Well, snot is a better adhesive, as is phlegm... Okay I know this because I am a science teacher. Please people.

 

I also reinforced my shoulders, because I hear there's some serious and unavoidable crack in my future. My only worry is that my neighbors will post it on the neighborhood watch web site; they tend to get very persnickety about people doing MJ in their cars in our block, and they'd probably flip if someone had crack in their block. I can hear the whirlybirds now...

 

12065843_10153824816808313_8856976806795

 

And what did I use? Scraps. Yes, people never throw away your scraps. And don't feed them to the dog. Scraps will save your butt. In my case I could stand to lose a few dozen pounds off it so maybe I shouldn't be saving it. Anyway...

 

12191741_10153824816843313_2955696713764

 

I've totally lost my mind, high from fumes and snorting fiberglass and time changes and the thought of a visit from that chemistry teacher from that TV show.

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Posted

I'm sorry I didn't reply to this earlier!

 

 

I've got budget to worry about so I'm doing it slowly in parts, but I also want to build something to help out the community to, so I'm planning on starting work on her finger armour soon. I'd love to use some of your hand measurements to figure out the right size to make them.

 

I wear a lady's XL leather glove, probably analogous to a men's medium, if that tells you anything. I'm going to make temp finger pieces that go around the glove, so ultimately it doesn't matter what my hand measurements are -- they have to match the glove.

 

The gloves I got for $10 from a street vendor in NYC are plain, faux-fur lined leather driving gloves with the only seam along the finger lines as seen in Phasma's extreme close-ups of her hands. Ultimately I'd like silicone or rubber versions of her finger armor permanently affixed to the gloves, not unlike the ANH TK hand plates. Gordon Tarpley (C3PO) says it's nearly impossible to bend the fingers properly, and I can't imagine holding the gun or pulling the trigger.

 

Spoiler / Speculation: She wears those finger types because she has mechanized arms. Cyborg!

Posted

Very nice Ingrid. You know it's pretty sad when we have to make crack prevention updates. Good thing ANOVOS scrap is a plenty.   

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

OK I'm a lot less giddy today, and special thanks to the veterans of this country since the 18th century, I get a day to work on boot armor and lower shins. And maybe I'll get a pattern made for the cape. I'm saving that for when "Pam" goes out for chroming. I don't think I can do "vacuum plating" myself... nor does it need to be that way, but I want durable chrome.

Posted

Okay so I got the toe, arch, and heel armor made (sabaton!). The toes were a pain because of the front curves, and since I don't have a vacuum former handy I did the ol' fashioned heat gun method. I used a few practice pieces and it's "good enough for the parade." ( As soon as that's done I'm driving to Scootch's to use his vacuum former... someone give him a heads up, please! ) I'm using the thick ABS for-sale signs for now, and it's good because I at least have a physical model to use to sculpt. I formed the armor parts to each boot, so they are fitting perfectly with only a few tiny imperfections because a section doesn't like to shape itself if the whole sheet isn't soft.

 

I started the front shin armor and that was a bit of a disaster. The shape is excellent, but for whatever reason the plastic did not want to curve properly (as all the other pieces had done!) I know those sheets "prefer" to melt in one direction, but even that didn't help. Oh well, at least I have a template. These parts really need to be sculpted and vac-formed but that will be second stage Awesomeness.

 

I assembled all the assembled upper body parts on the mannequin, which, sadly, is so damn skinny I can't get the chest piece on him. But it's good to see it all coming together. Of course, then I realized I haven't glued the ab boxes yet. I figure tomorrow after school I can start on the belt parts, though I don't want to attach them until they are chromed.

 

My deadline is Nov. 28. The parade is Nov. 29. Fingers crossed!

 

I'll get some pics up soon... 

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Posted

Hello.  so I am also building Phasma but i have little experience.  I received my helmet cast and its alittle bit rough looking. Definately needs some refined lines cut in better and needs some detailing work done to it and eyes cut out/lenses,  etc.  Is their anyone that could do all the finish work on the helmet except for paint and chroming? I can pay fair labor for their time and expertise.    I think I can handle the smoothing of the armor and trimming, etc way easier than this helmet prior to final fitting and sending off for chroming (Vacuum Process)  I am following your build and maybe we can help out each other.    I can be emailed direct at bobafettroxx@gmail.com

Posted

I made some lower shins and the shape is good but they are sorely lacking in the level of detail I want. 

 

 

WILL TRADE WOOD CHIPPER FOR VAC TABLE

Posted

Hello.  so I am also building Phasma but i have little experience.  I received my helmet cast and its alittle bit rough looking. Definately needs some refined lines cut in better and needs some detailing work done to it and eyes cut out/lenses,  etc.  Is their anyone that could do all the finish work on the helmet except for paint and chroming? I can pay fair labor for their time and expertise.    I think I can handle the smoothing of the armor and trimming, etc way easier than this helmet prior to final fitting and sending off for chroming (Vacuum Process)  I am following your build and maybe we can help out each other.    I can be emailed direct at bobafettroxx@gmail.com

 

Which maker is it? If the resin is soft enough, it's very easy to trim the inner lip with a dremmel sander and hand sanding. The eyes I dremmeled as close as I could get, then used a metal rasp to clean the edges to the lines. In my opinion this part is way easier than chroming :P

Posted

I'm really stressing out over this deadline. I will have to cancel everything between now and Thanksgiving... especially if i have to assemble my kitchen vac table (I bought parts for one about 4 years ago) and also do my own chroming. I want the vacuum chroming for at least the major parts (helmet, chest, abs, thighs, arm pieces) but it won't be as critical for the smaller and less-visible parts (does she even wear a TD? I assume so... ). Her boot armor looks like brushed metal although the sign says it's chromed. Just not polished. I can get away with some of that. Will have to save that to the end to test colors.

 

SO. Here's the Mod list.

  • I have make-shift toe, instep, and heel armor.
  • I have a lot of badly designed lower shins.
  • I have to do lower calves, they will be fairly easy.
  • I have converted TFA TK cod to flame trooper cod, but really want a proper one.
  • Fingers - my source may not be done in time so I may just make those myself for back-up.
    (really all of this is "back-up" until I can get proper parts made or found!)
  • I have to reshape the extra wrist/hand guards.
  • My weapon may not be done in time but this is less critical.
  • I still have to figure out the cape shape, then pattern, cut, sew, dye, coat and paint.
  • I can use my TFA TK gaskets in a pinch but I want to make my own...
  • I need to mod the boots a bit to ensure they will support my balance while wearing lift inserts.
  • After chroming helmet will need interior assembly plus black parts painted.

For the regular parts, I still need to assemble the ab boxes (I am missing box #7 and I sure hope it turns up!) and the belt.

 

Prime, chrome, assemble with strapping...

 

Droid melt-down factory...

 

Sigh.

 

I feel like this needs another year. 

 

BUT FOR ALL OF YOU MAKING THIS COSTUME -- by the new year I hope to have bucks and a proper vac-former so I can make parts for you all! :)

 

If anyone beats me to it, PLEASE SHARE! :)

Posted (edited)

For the cape shape, here's what I'll be starting with. After playing around with a black series TK and a napkin, I think it's pretty close to this.

 

 r90ifa.jpg

 

 

2i8vcqv.jpg
So the longer side is roughly the same height as the trooper, and then cut the shorter side to match where it should lay about knee height. With a contoured cut around the neck area.

Edited by netslave
  • Like 2
Posted

Have you tried out a triangular shape for the cape? To me it looks like one corner is attached a little bit off an edge over the right shoulder and the edge around the neck and hanging down along the right arm is one and the same. The two other corners are at the right knee and at the left foot. To me with your pattern there is too little fabric at the left arm.

Posted

Have you tried out a triangular shape for the cape? To me it looks like one corner is attached a little bit off an edge over the right shoulder and the edge around the neck and hanging down along the right arm is one and the same. The two other corners are at the right knee and at the left foot. To me with your pattern there is too little fabric at the left arm.

I'm just barely starting. I plan on taking an old sheet, wrapping it around my wife in costume, pinning it in place, and cutting it to shape. But I'll start a new thread on that when I do. Just offering a possible starting point. 

Posted

For the cape shape, here's what I'll be starting with. After playing around with a black series TK and a napkin, I think it's pretty close to this.

So the longer side is roughly the same height as the trooper, and then cut the shorter side to match where it should lay about knee height. With a contoured cut around the neck area.

 

That looks like a good start. I think my brain is trying to make it bigger/rounder/wrappier, but it just drapes. It drapes with a LOT of folds though. (And don't forget it has pockets on the back left.) Good idea starting with the figure, though.. duh!!! I shall conscript Freckles, my 10" HWT.

 

Also.... Are you going to include the foil tape on the shins? :P

 

You bet, thinking mylar from a space blanket. (I keep thinking how incredibly CHEAP this workaround for her flexibility was... seriously, costumers, FOIL!?)

 

I'm just barely starting. I plan on taking an old sheet, wrapping it around my wife in costume, pinning it in place, and cutting it to shape. But I'll start a new thread on that when I do. Just offering a possible starting point. 

 

Triangle base sounds about right. There is a lot of bunching over the left shoulder, which leads me to believe it is gathered not hanging down the back. The enclosure on the right shoulder is always hidden from view. I'm going to velcro the sh** out of the chest and yoke to keep it all in place, not unlike many vader capes, but far more of it!

Posted

Vacuum Metalizing process will cost me anywhere from $2500-5000 based on some estimates I got from some local folks this week. I am afraid that that is quite out of my budget. I still have one quote out but if it is going to take many weeks (one said 3-6 weeks) it's definitely not worth it. I have a deadline.

 

Thus we are looking at all other chroming options: rattle can, alsa/alclad type paint systems, and stretch film are the fore-runners right now.

 

Chroming experiment - Day 1.

 

Did not quite get the gloss black base I needed... I mean, it was not GLASSY gloss black. But nevertheless, we all knew "chrome" spraypaint wasn't going to cut it. It's just not reflective enough unless it goes on super thick, in which case it runs etc. (Hey, I had to try!)

 

Anyway, instead of polishing with compound like we do with our TKs, I apparently needed to polish with a car polish, like, an actual POLISH, like Turtle Wax. (Thanks, Gordon!) Nevertheless, we will try this if we go the Alclad route, which is currently our #2 solution.

 

Chroming experiment - Day 2.

 

I'll keep you up to date on how this goes (Tuesday), because I ordered VVIVID chrome stretch film ($20 for a short roll) to see if this works. If it turns out Phasma dies like Maul or is a total loser character, I can rip off all the chrome film and paint her white again. (And buy a new cod.) I have some old clone parts I've been using to experiment painting and what-not, so I am going to use them to see if this chrome film will work decently.

 

EDIT! Well this is the cheap stuff and it might work ok on my temp parts like the foot and heel armor, but it's probably not going to cut it as a long term solution. I will be doing Alclad after all, at least on the most important parts I can get done in time for the parade, but the sticky vinyl comes off so I could use it for belt boxes and smaller items temporarily as well. Ugh what a pain in the bupkus. :)

 

If this works, this is my #1 solution. If not, if it doesn't have the look I want, we're on to Alclad.

 

WISH ME LUCK.

Posted

Okay, moving on... to the cape!!!

 

This was fun. Using my 12" HWT doll "Freckles" and a cloth serviette, I tried several "maneuvers" with wrapping the cloth around the doll until I could match the reference images.

 

The "tutorial" (process?) is here.  If that doesn't work try here and cycle through the images.

 

The cape is indeed a triangle. I believe it is an equilateral right triangle with the hypotenuse being rounded to the radius of the edges. There may be some additional shortening closer to the right side, as the folds decrease in length quite rapidly. I'm going to build my "test" cape using an old flannel sheet and if it needs adjusting I will do that before cutting my painters canvas. I'm guesstimating my final height to be 6'2" (trying to add another 2" somehow) but given the drag length of the left corner, i should have room to grow.

 

EDIT: After making the rounded version, I have concluded that straight cut may be more accurate.

EDIT 2: I take it back!!! It is totally rounded!! ROUND IT!!!  :angry2: 

 

EDIT 3: Triangles be danged. After a 2-hour evaluation of all photos, playing with Freckles and some more fabric, and shaping and reshaping a variety of options, I have to conclude that Brian's napkin is a fair approximation of the shape. It is not quite 90 degrees. In fact what I am finding is that it is a series of 3 trapezoids, the left and right sides having parallel lengths, and the center/back having a more traditional trapezoidal shape. I'll post "patterns" soon and we can evaluate from there. I've already destroyed one sheet, and can't find another, so I may next begin taping paper together... The canvas isn't that expensive that if I screw it up I can't replace it, but I'd rather not have to get out of my PJs today.

 

There are TWO full seams, each on either side of the back plate position. I can't see any pockets or straps on the right side, only the folds. The left side has the 3 4 pockets and 3 straps: one comes out of the lower pocket and two come out from inside the cape. In my images from the D23 mannequin the two inner straps look more like leather than canvas, but I'll be asking around.

 

EDIT: I am investigating the positioning of the seams. There's something weird because there may be 3 seams, but their positioning is off-center based on the wrapping, so the center seam is beside the right side of the back, and the right-most seam is hidden in the folds. WILL LET YOU KNOW.

 

EDIT 2: Yay! More discoveries! How did I not see this before! There are 4 pockets!!! While investigating the left seam, I saw that it is covered by a pocket, and I don't have a good angle to see whether the pocket overlaps the seam, but I did notice it is a pocket above the two pockets. I'm sure there are people out there who already figured this out, but for me it's like playing Where's Waldo and discovering a hidden treasure instead! Anyway, I think it overlaps the seam by about an inch, which will make sewing particularly challenging...

 

I found an angle with a better look at the closure, also in those images on Facebook. There is about a 1" fold with sewn seam at the top front corner, and potentially also the back connection, which may be connected by bra hooks, or may even be sewn simply for the sake of wearing. If functional, it would need to come apart and clasp differently, because that would make a weird bend in the cape's right side... but as we haven't seen any other "shape" prior to the movie yet, I am assuming she's all look and no function. For the purposes of costuming, I will be using velcro to hold down the cape parts anywhere they should remain in place, such as across the front chest, and possibly in the folds.

 

I feel like I am writing the CRL as I go...  :6:  but hey, that's what I get for being a pioneer.

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