HOWTO: Make your ANOVOS TFA kit more accurate

[camprandall]

It's worth mentioning here that this is the way the project has gone from the very start. A lot of figuring out, a lot of NDAs, a lot of hopes for details that just didn't become available and a lot of people trying to meet deadlines with a lot of red tape involved. I know when we built ours, Bender was trying to build his and at the same time answer a ton of questions from a bunch of us and there just wasn't time for all that so we just plowed ahead with what we knew. The first months of this project were clearly focused on getting Disney suits done and our suits were naturally secondary in priority to all of that. It's understandable because succeeding with making Disney/LFL/JJ happy was much more important than tending to our costume build. All that being said, ours are still pretty dang accurate and are far better than the first versions of a lot of the costumes in the 501st. Just part of the process in getting these things so early and under such circumstances. It's also the risk we take getting on board so early and so anxiously building because you take a chance when you're the pioneers. It's worth it to me.

[SolderMaster]

It's worth mentioning here that this is the way the project has gone from the very start. A lot of figuring out, a lot of NDAs, a lot of hopes for details that just didn't become available and a lot of people trying to meet deadlines with a lot of red tape involved. I know when we built ours, Bender was trying to build his and at the same time answer a ton of questions from a bunch of us and there just wasn't time for all that so we just plowed ahead with what we knew. The first months of this project were clearly focused on getting Disney suits done and our suits were naturally secondary in priority to all of that. It's understandable because succeeding with making Disney/LFL/JJ happy was much more important than tending to our costume build. All that being said, ours are still pretty dang accurate and are far better than the first versions of a lot of the costumes in the 501st. Just part of the process in getting these things so early and under such circumstances. It's also the risk we take getting on board so early and so anxiously building because you take a chance when you're the pioneers. It's worth it to me.

Thank you Sir.

[SolderMaster]

No hard feelings at all. I have to be careful what I show photo wise. I got the OK from Anovos to post photos of just the armor build. I can not show photos from Disney or LFL. I wish I could because it would explain so much. Instead, I have to rely on what photos I did take during the process. 

 

When I get some time, I will try and tidy up the long list of upgrades/mods and organize it better. I did want to add on the forearms...The top where the resin greeblie gets glued down, is NOT glued all the way to the opening. It is glued about 75% from the elbow down. That way, you can get your hand through the opening without skinning your hand on the edges of the opening. 

 

Again, as I build my suit, I will take photos and post up what I did. Please be patient with me as I do have other "life" obligations.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

I/we appreciate it. I may be putting my build on hold till I can see these new details.

Edited September 14, 2015 by ukswrath

[SolderMaster]

1st post updated with a few photos.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

So I have a couple questions. I'll number them corresponding to the your numbed list as not to make it any more confusing.

 

1. What do you suggest in the way of material or does it matter?

2. It's my understanding (as discussed during the CRL build) the ab boxes are to look as if they HAVE a seem between the ab. You mentioned using bondo to fill in the gap which would make the two seem as one. Which is accurate?

3. no question/s

4. The section to cut out near the greeblie (ribbed section), to be clear remove the entire ribbed section and replace it with one solid piece. Looking at the pictures you've provided, the upper shows the ribbed section most of us are familiar with and the lower I'm a bit confused on which way to go. In your image the removed section looks filled in with one solid piece that looks to be flush with the outer layer yet, in the screen shot it looks to be recessed, stepped. Which is correct?

 

 

5. The belt is shipped with nylon that is the base for the floor mat material. Is the neoprene to be added between floor mat material and the nylon? Or is it either, or?

6. The bottom section of the boxes is almost 5/8" thick. If were to replace it with a chunk of silicone rubber will it have to be black in color because most likely any well prepped paint you put on it won't last more than a few troops if that. Any suggestions on where to get black silicone rubber that color and thickness.

6b. How did you attach the rubber to the front box and belt?

7. To late for me to be uber accurate with this area lol

8. This area your suggesting to notch out is already prone to cracking. Some of us have already reinforced that are to prevent this from happening. Are you suggesting we glue a adhere a piece of steel to that area? In your opinion with this piece of steel help with the cracking issue or contribute to it?

 

 

9. No questions 

 

Thank you

Edited September 15, 2015 by ukswrath

[SolderMaster]

Great questions.<br><br>

1. The screen used suit had some sort of black fabric with a distinct pattern. Almost honeycomb pattern. However, on the Disney suits we used a black counter top edging material. It had a flat side and a satin or glossy side. We went with the glossy side visible through the holes. Without posting an illegal photo, it may be awhile before I find out what type of fabric was used. I'm not a seamstress and haven't a clue what the fabric or the pattern is correctly called.<br><br>

2. I will check my computer tomorrow and get back to you on this one. Disney suits used white caulk to hide the seams.<br><br>

4. The ribbed or stepped detail was cut off and thrown away after cutting the seam. A piece was added to the back and the two halves were glued with approximately a 1/8 inch gap. The stepped detail was recreated with a piece of siding. Siding that I'm guessing would be used in model trains for a house or building. I say guessing because the team got it from the hobby shop. The detail consists of 2 actual steps. The first step should sit below the armor, the second step then the backing piece. The second step should stop at the edge of the half that contains the detail. I know I'm digging myself a hole. I will try to get something via a photo ASAP.<br><br>

5. I don't remember seeing nylon as part of the belt...I will check photos and come back to this one. <br><br>

6. Yes, black rubber of some sort. Unknown what actual type. But I've priced the rubber at McMaster and it's a little pricey. 30 bucks for a chunk that would be needed for both boxes. We did not use rubber on the Disney suits. Time was of concern, we just used the ones that came with the kit. Glue, screws, etc would get the job done.<br><br>

7. Me too. ;-)<br><br>

8. I believe whoever built the suits for the film, didn't have a freaking clue what they were doing. I swear, anyone who has built a TK would have done a better job. The suits were poorly strapped...pathetic really. We think they added the metal to prevent the shoulder bell from riding over the yolk. But, that doesn't even come close to riding over it so it doesn't make much sense. The slots cut into the armor were not needed IMHO. But, they were in the film so I must include them...however stupid they were. ;-)<br><br>

I will continue to update the first post as I build and as I find more usable photos.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Awesome! I cold help but crack up on some of your responses lol 

 

Sometimes I wonder if screen accurate is worth the frustration with some of these enhancements. 

 

I'm still a bit confused regarding the bicep maybe some can draw me a picture, I like pictures   

 

Staying tuned for more clarification..... 

[rhapsodyred99[TK]]

I wonder if the forearm boxes should be sanded as well.  I have noticed in pics of the real suits they are sharper than on the anovos pulls.

 

I dont want to use someones build to have them think Im singling them out, but once I get mine I can post a pic of what I mean.

 

Edit:

 

this is on the main page so I am grabbing it:

 

Anovos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

to me the screen one is sharp instead of rounded.  And of course you will need to add tape...got to have tape

[camprandall]

What's difficult with the whole "sharper edge" thing is that the entire suit is softer than the screen-used. We can sharpen random boxes and pieces, but all of the details are softer so if you want to be thorough, the return edges and everything need to be sharpened and all details sharpened. Seems like a lot of work to turn a vacu-formed suit into something that looks like it wasn't.

[Darth Aloha[Admin]]

What's difficult with the whole "sharper edge" thing is that the entire suit is softer than the screen-used. We can sharpen random boxes and pieces, but all of the details are softer so if you want to be thorough, the return edges and everything need to be sharpened and all details sharpened. Seems like a lot of work to turn a vacu-formed suit into something that looks like it wasn't.

Pretty interesting stuff.

 

I don't think we could ever write "must have sharp corners" into the CRL for L2 or L3.

 

Plus... The public will never ever notice. I know that centurion isn't about the fan's view of us but right now that is my focus for this costume.

 

Maybe someone clever should start offering replacement parts for the anovos suit that are 3D printed for those who want squarerer boxes.

 

Either way I love the all new information coming to light and resulting discussion. Especially Tony's obsession with accuracy and replication even if it means he's a little pissed off

 

-Eric

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Or you can add bondo or something similar to the corners to build them up, then sharpen them. Heck there's filler of some sort being used on a good portion of the armor anyways, what's a few more corners. 

 

I sharpened my ab boxes a while ago and I'm pretty certain there's areas that are paper thin.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Either way I love the all new information coming to light and resulting discussion. Especially Tony's obsession with accuracy and replication even if it means he's a little pissed off

 

-Eric

 

 

 

... wait! what? 

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

I'm actually waiting to see if the retaining tape on the forearms will be added to the CRL.... 

[rhapsodyred99[TK]]

im not worried about L2 or L3 CRl needing it, this is for me to make as accurate a kit as possible, because thats what I like.

 

It never occurred to me really that these mods would be required for top level CRl. Despite the fact that my suits are all built to top level I am not one of those guys that feels they NEED it to justify themselves.  I just want to build the most accurate suit as possible with what we have.

 

That said I very well may not add the metal bracket since its silly..

 

 

 

 

[SolderMaster]

On 9/15/2015 at 12:35 PM, SolderMaster said:

Great questions.<br><br>

1. The screen used suit had some sort of black fabric with a distinct pattern. Almost honeycomb pattern. However, on the Disney suits we used a black counter top edging material. It had a flat side and a satin or glossy side. We went with the glossy side visible through the holes. Without posting an illegal photo, it may be awhile before I find out what type of fabric was used. I'm not a seamstress and haven't a clue what the fabric or the pattern is correctly called.<br><br>

2. I will check my computer tomorrow and get back to you on this one. Disney suits used white caulk to hide the seams.<br><br>

4. The ribbed or stepped detail was cut off and thrown away after cutting the seam. A piece was added to the back and the two halves were glued with approximately a 1/8 inch gap. The stepped detail was recreated with a piece of siding. Siding that I'm guessing would be used in model trains for a house or building. I say guessing because the team got it from the hobby shop. The detail consists of 2 actual steps. The first step should sit below the armor, the second step then the backing piece. The second step should stop at the edge of the half that contains the detail. I know I'm digging myself a hole. I will try to get something via a photo ASAP.<br><br>

5. I don't remember seeing nylon as part of the belt...I will check photos and come back to this one. <br><br>

6. Yes, black rubber of some sort. Unknown what actual type. But I've priced the rubber at McMaster and it's a little pricey. 30 bucks for a chunk that would be needed for both boxes. We did not use rubber on the Disney suits. Time was of concern, we just used the ones that came with the kit. Glue, screws, etc would get the job done.<br><br>

7. Me too. ;-)<br><br>

8. I believe whoever built the suits for the film, didn't have a freaking clue what they were doing. I swear, anyone who has built a TK would have done a better job. The suits were poorly strapped...pathetic really. We think they added the metal to prevent the shoulder bell from riding over the yolk. But, that doesn't even come close to riding over it so it doesn't make much sense. The slots cut into the armor were not needed IMHO. But, they were in the film so I must include them...however stupid they were. ;-)<br><br>

I will continue to update the first post as I build and as I find more usable photos.

 

1. Looking at the photos I have, the fabric. Picture a brick wall. How the bricks lay staggared. That is the design or pattern on the fabric. Not like a honeycomb as I said before.

 

2. There are definately seams on the boxes. Do not bondo or caulk.

 

4. This one is going to be tough to explain. I built a mock up of what it should look like. Don't mind the extra score line on the bottom step...I suck cutting with an exacto. This is NOT to scale. 

 

 

 

 

Picture the other half of the bicep butted up to the last step.

 

5. YES. the belt did have nylon. It goes, nylon against the armor, then neoprene or similar approx. 3/8 inch thick, then the floor mat.

 

6. I really want to post this damn photo..but can't. I'll try to find something to use...

 

1st post updated.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

So to be clear with 4.

 

The picture I outlined the step appears to be wider and thicker (3 layers) at the side closest to the seem then steps down (2, then 1 in layers) and becomes thinner in width, just the opposite of what you built.

 

Which is correct? Sorry 

[SolderMaster]

What I built is correct. It goes...armor...top step....middle step....then seam. The third step...isn't really a step. It's supposed to be the top of the backing strip. That area is a little wider than the steps themselves.<br><br>

Did that make sense?

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Yes it does, thank you 

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Hey Brian,

I'm going to use your thread if you allow me to post this picture as I find it interesting about how to properly fasten the belt to the armor:

Edited March 3, 2021 by Sly11
Image broken and not recoverable

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Yea good luck with that. The ab & kidney section will have to be redesigned from the ground up. That upgrade I will NOT be doing lol

[SolderMaster]

Hey Brian,

I'm going to use your thread if you allow me to post this picture as I find it interesting about how to properly fasten the belt to the armor:

Where did you find that photo?

[ukswrath[Staff]]

It's been circulating around for a while. I posted it on the TFA facebook page a month or so ago. I found it in some online magazine article

[bearings[TK]]

Pretty sure that's a screen capture from the behind the scenes TFA video that was released at SDCC?

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Brian, what tool did you use to square the edges in the chest plate and biceps creases?