HOWTO: Make your ANOVOS TFA kit more accurate

[SolderMaster]

Here are a few things you can do to get your vacu-formed armor a little more accurate.

 

1. Cut the holes out of the chest, chest vent, shins, and biceps. Back them with a black cloth material. The material should have a brick pattern to it. Like as in a brick wall, staggered rectangular pattern. Something similar to this...only all black...and ...yeah

 

 

2. Use a sanding block on the ab boxes, left shin boxes, and forearm squares to sharpen the edges. We CA glued these on, but I like what other folks are doing using screws/bolts on the inside and drilling through the ab plate and securing with a nut. Any gaps between the boxes and ab can be closed up with either bondo, CA glue, or white caulk. 

 

 

3. Cut the chest "wings" and reassemble using a strip of ABS or styrene on the back, realigning the two pieces to make a noticeable seam. Bondo the return edge on the top and bottom. Also, either sand out or use bondo to fill in the "shadow" seam line. It's subtle, but noticeable on most if not all chest plates...to the outside of where the seam actually is.

 

 

 

 

4. Biceps- Fit these as you normally would. If you need more plastic, add it during this step. Assemble using butt joints on the outside. Overlap the inside but use velcro to close it. Now, cut the seam line where the steps are, where the resin buckle gets glued. Back with ABS or styrene and realign the pieces making a nice straight seam. Leave approximately 1/8 of an inch gap. Cut out the little steps and toss that piece at your annoying cat. Replace that soft detail with some thin styrene or ABS or some modeling siding from a hobby shop. Cut to size and back the empty hole with ABS or styrene and glue in your newly made, shaper detail piece.

 

 

 

 

5. Use 3/8 of an inch neoprene foam under your floor mat belt. It should go Nylon webbing, neoprene, floor mat.

EDIT [Daetrin]: using cordura nylon works well too...

 

6. For the two belt boxes..10H and 10K, use plain silicone rubber with a smoothe finish as the bottom of those boxes. Keep the ABS bottoms that came with you kit for trays to keep odds and ends in. With that rubber piece, 5/8" on the outer edges and 3/8" in the middle. You will have to cut a bend in the rubber so it matches the contour of your floor mat belt. If you don't, the ends of both boxes will flair out or stick out because they are flat.

 

7. If you want to be uber accurate, use velcro to close the inside of both thighs.

 

8. Cut two notches in the top of the yolk where the shoulder bell meets it. Use a chunk of steel or sturdy aluminum in between the notches sticking out toward the shoulder bell. Metal tab should be approximately 3/4" wide, 1/16" thick and protruding from the yolk about an inch. Use two 1 inch wide straps to connect the shoulder bell to the yolk. 

 

 

 

9. Forearms: Only glue about 75% of the plate with the long greeblie. Leave the wrist opening unglued about 3 1/4 inches back. This will also help get your hand through without skinning up your hand.

 

 

 

 

I appologize for the photos as most are taken with my phone. :-/

Edited March 3, 2021 by Sly11
Split from previous topic, reformatted.

[Mayday73]

Photos will be a great help if you have the time.

[SolderMaster]

I will have to use photos from my kit as I make the modifications. The photos I have access to, I cannot use per the NDA I signed with Anovos. I will ask fellow TFAs to post in this thread with their photos. I will edit the first post, or have Daetrin modify the 1st post if I can't when I get my photos taken.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Hey Brian as you may know my build is pretty detailed and areas I believe are manufacturing oversights I updated, where did you get this visual information from? I've looked at screen shots (what are available) and I'm having a hard time trying to see these differences you're mentioning.

 

Instead of posting pics of yours or anyone else's build maybe you can post some screen shots of the actual areas you're mentioning. 

 

I'm all for accuracy and detail but before I start cutting I'd like to see reference pics.

 

Thanks for the info,

Cheers

[SolderMaster]

That's a good point. How would anyone know that I was even a part of the Disney build team for Anovos? I will upload a few pictures I know are not LFL and Anovos property, just so the credibility is there.<br>

The build team was allowed access to Anovos photos that were taken at the LFL archives so we could build the suits as close to the 3D printed ones as possible.<br><br>

Although, I was lucky enough to be a part of the build team, I am not an employee of Anovos or LFL. As soon as I have time to sit in front of my PC, I will get some shots uploaded. I can not upload the actual photos from LFL as that would be in violation of the Non-Disclosure Agreement I signed with Anovos. Please be patient and I will hopefully have those shots uploaded by Saturday night.<br><br>

Again, great point.

[SolderMaster]

Here's a few shots...These were taken with my phone. You may have to save the file and zoom in on your computer.

 

In this photo, you can see where the wings of the chest plate were cut off, reattached with a small gap, and bondoed the edges. Used a file to give the edge a little seam ender detail. You can also see the shin detail was cut out and backed with a black material.

 

 

 

Chests before paint.

 

 

 

Sanding block was used to sharpen the ab box edges.

 

 

 

 

 

 

In this shot you can see the bicep steps detail was cut out and replaced to bring out the lines. The material used was thin siding for model houses. You can create the same effect with thin ABS or styrene. Also, bicep dual holes cut out and backed with black material.

You can also tell the seam under the steps detail was cut and reassembled leaving a small gap between the two halves. 

 

 

 

I'll post more when I find them. Hope this helps clear the mud. ;-)

[Vader1[501st]]

Here is a picture of the inside of the thighs overlapping.

 

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

I guess I'm still confused, why would anyone want to do this to their chest plate when in the movie it's clearly not there?

 

[SolderMaster]

It's there. You may not see it in this screen cap. But it's there.<br><br>

You do not have to make all the mods. This thread is for folks who want to be SCREEN accurate. I have held the screen used parts in my hands. I know what I'm talking about. <br><br>

If cutting your armor scares you...it's simple....don't do it. But don't call me a liar. ;-)

Edited September 12, 2015 by SolderMaster

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Well if it's actually there, and I'll take your work for it it is the question is will it be required for L2 or L3 when the time comes, do you have the templates for this and every other mod that's similar?

Edited September 12, 2015 by ukswrath

[ukswrath[Staff]]

And sorry if it came across as calling your question but after looking at the screen clips you have assume others will call you out, something you shouldn't take offense to.

Also if you'd seen my build thread you would know I have no fear of cutting my armor, and accuracy is main goal.

[SolderMaster]

This was in an earlier post...<br><br>

"The build team was allowed access to Anovos photos that were taken at the LFL archives so we could build the suits as close to the 3D printed ones as possible."<br><br>

That alone says I have seen more than what's available on the internet. But it's cool...I get it.<br><br>

I will post photos of my armor as I build it. Again, I cannot post photos of the screen used armor as it would violate my NDA.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

This is great information and I do appreciate it however where was this information when the beta group was receiving their armor? I understand maybe you had to be more discreet prior to C7 but this new information makes this a whole new ball game for some like myself. You see I want my armor to be as accurate as possible, as I assume many other TFA builders do. I'm at a point in my build where I'm about to paint but I want it to be screen accurate as you say. My build now comes to a grinding halt, and I'm ok with that. I'm sure there will be others reading this that will be asking where were you and this information two months ago? Did you recently receive permission to release this new info? Just a few questions for my fellow imperial leader.

Edited September 12, 2015 by ukswrath

[TK21029[TK]]

With all due respect I would wait to see screen shots from the movie verifying this.

 

Maybe there was multiple versions used with and without.

 

 

Sent from a galaxy far far away

[TK21029[TK]]

So here you go, after searching all close ups I am not convinced all of them had this.

 

Some look perfectly seamless with clear photos. Could either be some have better seam work than others or just the photo angles are making it appear the seam is not there.

 

I'm leaning they all have this seam.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sent from a galaxy far far away

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Ok let me clarify. I know there's a seem there, I guess my point is your version has a very deep crease compared to screen clips. A crease that may require some serious alterations to create.

 

I'd like to compare the two versions, yours and ANOVOS to TM & RS for example. TM is sculpted (enhanced) to define specific areas however, it doesn't make it more screen accurate than RS.

 

To use your own pic, where is the seem on the trooper to the right? Maybe it's not as defined as yours or maybe it doesn't exist at all on certain armor as someone else mentioned, who knows.

 

I guess my point is, does your version and your knowledge of the armor make current versions of ANOVOS armor any less accurate?

 

Edited September 14, 2015 by ukswrath

[SolderMaster]

All of the suits were made by the same company for the film. All suits including the photo you have a question mark by has the seam. I downloaded your photo and blew it up. You can see the seam but the quality of the photo is poor and the image blurrs as you zoom in...making it a poor example. The Anovos suits were vacu-formed. The screen used suits were 3D printed. There are going to be accuracy issues. The mods I suggested are to make the Anovos suits look more like the 3D printed ones.

[TK21029[TK]]

I would recommend drawing the line and using a dremel or thin sanding wheel engrave the groove in lieu of cutting the entire piece off. Then reinforcing the rear.

 

Just seems to make more sense to me. It would also ultimately be stronger and more sturdy. That armor isn't the thickest to begin with.

 

Would practice on a scrap piece to start with of course and only cut off if that's what I must do unless you have already tried that.

 

 

Sent from a galaxy far far away

Edited September 14, 2015 by TK21029

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Understood.

 

You never answered my question regarding why this information wasn't disclosed sooner.

Edited September 14, 2015 by ukswrath

[TK21029[TK]]

Understood.

 

You never answered my question regarding why this information wasn't disclosed sooner.

Spilled milk man, don't sweat it. I've been watching your build and its great. I would wait for the level 2&3 CRL to be available to make the changes and meet them at that point. Other things like this may come up by then or after the movie is out.

 

 

Sent from a galaxy far far away

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Spilled milk man, don't sweat it. I've been watching your build and its great. I would wait for the level 2&3 CRL to be available to make the changes and meet them at that point. Other things like this may come up by then or after the movie is out.

 

 

Sent from a galaxy far far away

 

Randy thanks for the kudos brother.

 

Spilled milk... lol  , no disrespect my brother but it's obvious by now there are some that had knowledge about important armor details (IMHO) and yet were just now hearing about it.

 

Myself and many others are building their armor with L3 in mind, not just basic. Some of us are also spending a great deal of time and money when it comes to preparing our armor for paint, and the painting itself because of so many cracking and paint issues discussed in other forums. Once prepped and painted correctly you don't just go back and make modifications without spending more money. So getting it correct the first time is important. We're also on a time deadline here. Most of us need, or would like to have our armor completed before VII release. It would be one thing if there were no other information out there regarding armor details until the movie released, but if there is, and this information may effect upper levels of accuracy in the future than we (the TFA community) would like to know about it, in detail, soon. 

 

If we're to take Brian's word as legit, and I assume it is, then we need documentation so we can "Make our ANOVOS armor more accurate" as stated.

 

Hey, someone else let the cat out of the bag, I'm just trying to find it    

Edited September 14, 2015 by ukswrath

[SolderMaster]

I didn't post it sooner because I have a full time job and a family. The summer months are pretty busy which is why I have just started on my armor. We finished the last 5 suits for Disney in June. To be honest, I was pretty burnt out. I was only able to work on the Disney suits during my "free time" which was when I wasn't at my job. I also had to get clearance from Anovos. I wish I could post everything I have access to to help you guys and gals out more. I do what I can, when I can. Not much of an excuse...but it is, what it is.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

I didn't post it sooner because I have a full time job and a family. The summer months are pretty busy which is why I have just started on my armor. We finished the last 5 suits for Disney in June. To be honest, I was pretty burnt out. I was only able to work on the Disney suits during my "free time" which was when I wasn't at my job. I also had to get clearance from Anovos. I wish I could post everything I have access to to help you guys and gals out more. I do what I can, when I can. Not much of an excuse...but it is, what it is.

 

Thank you for the clarification Brian. I hope you understand I not trying to be a jerk about this it's just my OCD is in full tilt with the TFA

The TFA community does appreciate any information you can give us.

Edited September 14, 2015 by ukswrath

[captsafe66[Admin]]

I was wondering about the holes backed up with the cloth myself. 

Thanks for the heads up.

[midorimushi[TK]]

thanks for all of this info! It's pretty helpful!!