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Posted

ooo Blood inside the bucket.. awesome!

 

btw.. I found your thread.. hahahha.. So what shall we talk about - chuckles -

 

Wishing you all the best on your build.. may you get started long before I do and run into lots of issues so you have the answers when I get lost in my build...

 

KIDDING!

 

Good luck Bonkerbot! :dancing-trooper:

 

 

Agreed, really mess this thing up so we don't have too lol

  • Like 2
Posted

I've managed to trim 90% of the suit today. Not too sure about biceps so going to look at references and make sure not to frack it up. I didn't trim the front or back of any limbs. Don't want to chance it not fitting due to over trim until I can properly fit it. Pictures tomorrow.:)

Posted

I've been snapping some here and there. Just got too caught up in working to post them. Wife is making go to the bar, all I want to do is build lol.<br><br>

Speaking of sanding anyone know the best way to get a nice smooth round edge out of a rough cut edge? Not having much luck on tutorials. I'll test tomorrow.if I can't figure it out

  • Like 1
Posted

The problem with the notch... Ukswrath has told me I need to shim it out to match the edge of the kidneys meaning Its will be 22mm x 22mm and a huge pain lol

 

20160122_100009_zpsqbaogdvc.jpg

 

Roughed Trimmed pile! 30 minutes after opening lol

 

20160122_124005_zpsks6lddkq.jpg

 

May not need to shim the outside but will still need to fix the notch :( I know this is't a fitting, I don't have my suit on and haven't trimmed the edges.

 

20160122_110620_zpshcurjabc.jpg

Posted

Thighs and shins rough cut.

 

20160122_135920_zpsozxsiyi2.jpg

 

Also did the shoulder bells, Thermal detonator, Chest, Back, abs, butt, and kidneys. I'm hitting my deadline of Toronto Comicon for sure.

  • Like 2
Posted

Well that's just never fitting back in there lol

 

20160122_185803_zpsw1f5yfpf.jpg

 

I'm finishing trimming tomorrow night and starting to sand. Any tips would be appreciated. :)

  • Like 1
Posted

Have you watched TK1636's build videos?  He goes over the sanding process pretty thoroughly.

Here's one of the videos in the long series (46 videos total!): 

 

That one is for the shoulder bells and such but the same techniques apply.  The video of sanding the thigh pieces, etc. was earlier in the series, shouldn't be hard to find, I think maybe video #4?

 

In short, though, going by his method, the easiest way to get it done is with a stationary belt sander, which easily sands large pieces with rounded bits.  And a dremel for detail work, if needed.

Posted (edited)

I've been snapping some here and there. Just got too caught up in working to post them. Wife is making go to the bar, all I want to do is build lol.&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&gt;

Speaking of sanding anyone know the best way to get a nice smooth round edge out of a rough cut edge? Not having much luck on tutorials. I'll test tomorrow.if I can't figure it out

Fine grit sand paper... 1200 or so... And a lot of sanding... For rounded pieces use round files, or small triangular files too... Edited by TK 2759
Posted (edited)

Yeah I have seen that one. I wish I did have one but I don't. Any other methods? I'm thinking sanding block for the long parts

The belt sanders are only about $60 at Harbor Freight (on sale or with a 20% off coupon).  Small change in the overall cost of one these things, all things considered, especially given how much labor they save!  Handy for future projects, too.  I'm going to buy one just for this project, but I'm sure it will come in super handy for other projects, too.

Edited by kman
  • Like 3
Posted

Sly is saying to try a block behind the part I want to pop out and a little heat from a heat gun to make it malleable. I figure I could just sandwich it between a brick and some fabric wrapped wood. I'll test it on scrap to figure out the heat.  

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Hey mate - if you have a local "Totaline Parts" there's stuff called "Thermotrap" - I use it when I have to braze A/C near plastic siding it's a clear gel that you put onto parts that you don't want to melt. This will help you to avoid heat transfer to areas you don't want it to go and it wipes off clean. I was gonna reveal this little secret on my thread when it was time - but I owe you mate! It's a Nu-Calgon product - DO NOT buy the paste.

 

Really cheap too, and a sealing iron small tip from your local hobby shop will allow you to control were you focus the heat.

Edited by Pyrates
  • Like 2
Posted

Sly is saying to try a block behind the part I want to pop out and a little heat from a heat gun to make it malleable. I figure I could just sandwich it between a brick and some fabric wrapped wood. I'll test it on scrap to figure out the heat.  

Just so I'm clear.. Are you saying the plan is to leave the plastic that is supposed to be trimmed off and instead reshape into place and then cut your notch?

Posted (edited)

I don't recommend a heat gun, ABS requires a lot of heat and as soon it reaches malleable temp it will just shrink/warp because of the high rubber content, I doubt you can pop out the return edges with a heat gun without damaging the plastic.

 

Mark (AP)

Edited by ABS80
  • Like 1
Posted

What do you know! Lol :) <br><br>

How should we do it Mark? Would the hobby iron work? Is patching with a shim our only option on this one? You're literally the expert (I'm happy you chimed in)

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

the only solution to resolve this would be not put any notches, but then every single person would have to cut out the notch, not sure its a good idea since repositioning of the notch is only required for over 36" waist.

 

Mark (AP)

Edited by ABS80
  • Like 2

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