VulpX[TK] Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Yesterday was a boring day at the office. Really, really boring. It was made worse by the fact that I knew there would be a special moment at the end of the day, and that just makes all the hours that precede that moment drag on forever. But then it finally happened, a really big brown box arrived from England with my name on it and suddenly yesterday was one of the best days in recent memory The box is kinda cool, maybe I'll keep it for a Solid Snake cosplay But the contents are slightly more awesome, imho: It's really shiny. Really, really shiny. It's awesome. Oh, and it's thick. It's really feels robust, this 2 mm ABS. Thanks a lot Paul! Also included are two pairs of ears for the helmet, nice! I will update the thread again this evening with new pictures. I started with seperating the biceps and forearms, and trimmed the biceps a little. I will start with the arms and legs, then the torso and the helmet last. I really want to get a good feel for the ABS before I tackle the bucket. After all that's the part that will stand out most. The goal I'm aiming for is Centurion level accuracy, with a deadline of somewhere before the end of October. I want to get my 501st approval in before or at the beginning of November, so I'll be able to join the Dutch Garrison with the big premiere events for The Force Awakens. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted August 26, 2015 Report Share Posted August 26, 2015 Boy are you going to enjoy this build. That 2.0 is nice plastic that makes a nicer trooper!!! Awesome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darthRivera[501st] Posted August 27, 2015 Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 2 mm abs!! This will be a solid armor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulpX[TK] Posted August 27, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) After working on the arms for two evenings I can confirm the 2mm ABS feels really sturdy and solid. Paul said it would have a more armour like feel to it than thinner plastic, and it sure does! Really glad I went with this. Some updates: Sorted the basic strapping kit: My little workstation: Seperated the arms: Some progress on the biceps and forearms: All edges gone on the arms: Removed return edge at the front of the forearms: Biceps done and sanded. I'm still thinking of taking of more of the return edge, especially at the inner biceps. They look less rough in reality than on the photo's, but the little edge visible on the return edge of the outer bicep still bothers me. Might take off just a millimeter more. So far, so good. Love working on it Next up is either fitting the arms or cleaning up and trimming the shins. Edited August 27, 2015 by VulpX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 27, 2015 Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 So.. I'm assuming you have a TFA, this should be a cake walk for you in comparison. Beautiful armor. Looking forward to the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebladejedi[TK] Posted August 27, 2015 Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 You don't have to but I would take more off from the front of the wrist area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 27, 2015 Report Share Posted August 27, 2015 You don't have to but I would take more off from the front of the wrist area. You're correct Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulpX[TK] Posted August 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) So.. I'm assuming you have a TFA, this should be a cake walk for you in comparison. Beautiful armor. Looking forward to the build. I wish! Nope, I don't have one, this is my first costume build ever You don't have to but I would take more off from the front of the wrist area. But wouldn't I be cutting into the pattern on the forearms? I checked some reference pics, and I see you are right, a lot of them have cut off a bit more at the front. But I like this effect, it looks like the pattern on top of the arm actually sits on it. I really need to know what it is called Ok, onto what I have done yesterday evening. I took off more of the return edge on the biceps (not sanded yet). Maybe I'll take off a little more: I made a sanding board for all the straight edges. Helps a lot! Ready for fitting! So I put on the undersuit and fitted the biceps and forearms: Of course the biceps will end up higher up on my arm when they are connected to the shoulder bells. I don't think I need to make them any smaller. I can stick two fingers between the armor and my arm when I have my arms at my side, but when I flex my biceps the armor is tight. Next up will be sanding the biceps and making the cover strips for them, gluing and then the same for the forearms. I also started trimming a shin yesterday, it's all coming along nicely I would say Edited August 28, 2015 by VulpX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 Biceps and thighs should be kept loose. Those are the two main muscles that will be flexing you need to leave room inside. Forearms and shins can be more snug, but best to leave a bit of wiggle room. When you glue your biceps together, line them up from the bottom and leave any mismatch at the top. Nice job so far. Steady as she goes 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulpX[TK] Posted August 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 (edited) Biceps and thighs should be kept loose. Those are the two main muscles that will be flexing you need to leave room inside. Forearms and shins can be more snug, but best to leave a bit of wiggle room. When you glue your biceps together, line them up from the bottom and leave any mismatch at the top. Nice job so far. Steady as she goes Thanks for the tip on the bottom line up Paul! I was struggling a little with that, especially on the right bicep. It's a little more misaligned than the left one. But this should help! And of course the mismatch would be covered up by the cover strip and the shoulder bell. Edited August 28, 2015 by VulpX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 Don't worry about covering the mismatch up with the joining strip. The original arms did not match up and the joining strips were as long as the shortest side. It's a feature of the original armour and perfectly acceptable, but you can try and cover them if you want 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulpX[TK] Posted August 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 Don't worry about covering the mismatch up with the joining strip. The original arms did not match up and the joining strips were as long as the shortest side. It's a feature of the original armour and perfectly acceptable, but you can try and cover them if you want I checked some references and other builds and see that too. In T-Jay's thread you made it like this: I like that, I'll try to do that too. Sort of halfway between the two halves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 28, 2015 Report Share Posted August 28, 2015 Paul I have to say it's very nice to see builder/seller in the forums assisting new troopers with their armor instead of sitting back and collecting a buck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulpX[TK] Posted August 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Okay, some progress this weekend. I made the first cover strips for the biceps and glued them on. I did this yesterday, and in a few hours they will have sat for 24 hours and I'll do the other strip So, now I've moved on to the shins. Can't say I like this part. I find it very hard to get good straight edges on it. I made this contraption to so it: I only did the right shin so far. I'm running into issues and I really don't want to continue with the shins before I know for certain it's gonna turn out ok. So I put them on, notice all the big gaps. I haven't trimmed the back yet, as I'm not sure if it even fits all right at the front. I'm really struggling with how I'm ever going to put them on with the cover stip glued in front. I need to bend the shin quite a bit to be able to slip it over my leg, so far that I don't think the cover strip will hold when it's in place. I don't really know what to do with them at this point. If I look at other builds the shins all seem to be done so easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebladejedi[TK] Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Everyone is different and does it there way. The shins do not need to fit 100 % under the cover strip as you will not see it once they are glued on. Also they will be fine to slip on and off once glued. You can put strips on the inside if you wish to give you peace of mind. What glue are you using? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulpX[TK] Posted August 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 (edited) I'm using E6000. I got the same advice from a DG member. Once glued all the ABS will bend, not just at the seam. So I'll try to trim some of the back, see how it goes. So, quick question, does this look good? Haven't trimmed the back yet, wanted some feedback on the fitting. Edited August 30, 2015 by VulpX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebladejedi[TK] Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 I would trim the front down so that you can easily use a 20mm cover strip. You can then trim the rear to suit and fit your shin. Looks ok from here I would get gluing up the front there.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulpX[TK] Posted August 30, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 (edited) Cool thanks! I'm going with 22mm on my legs front btw, since I have Paul's XL shins and probably also won't have to trim the thighs that much. I think 22mm would be better with my proportions. I have done the left shin too, looks about the same as the right one. I'll trim it down a little more, make a strip and see what it looks like. Also still need to do the back, I noticed the back seam isn't straight like the front, but kind of angles inward, like you see on my last picture. Is that angle too big, or about right? Thanks for all the help till now, really appreciated Edited August 30, 2015 by VulpX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 The size of the shin looks good but it's how it feels that's more important. The back seam also looks very good. The joint is central at the back of your knee and central to the seam on your boot. You can't get much better than that! I went with 22mm strips on my armour since I am not skinny and I think they just fine. 20mm, 22mm or 25mm wide strips are perfectly acceptable on the legs. Go even wider if you must but keep them all the same for shins and thighs (no need for the shin backs to be any wider than what you are using if over 25mm). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebladejedi[TK] Posted August 30, 2015 Report Share Posted August 30, 2015 Yep one of my shin fronts has 23mm and the other 20-21mm something like that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazmosis[501st] Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Don;t worry one bit about the molded ridge under the cover strip being even. Paul re-created this ridge to honor the un even ness of the original piece. You are doing fine. If you are planning at any point to go for a badge or accuracy, specifically Centurion, the return edge on your forearms will need to trimmed up into the square indent ridge of the forearms. Beautiful work so far!!!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukswrath[Staff] Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 There's a lot of top notch help on this thread, I'm going to have to stay tuned in 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulpX[TK] Posted September 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2015 Don;t worry one bit about the molded ridge under the cover strip being even. Paul re-created this ridge to honor the un even ness of the original piece. You are doing fine. If you are planning at any point to go for a badge or accuracy, specifically Centurion, the return edge on your forearms will need to trimmed up into the square indent ridge of the forearms.wrist no return edge.jpg Beautiful work so far!!!! Thanks, I won't worry about the unevenness then. I did trim my forearms conform centurion specs this weekend, so trimmed up to the indent. The build will be a little slower this week as I received this beauty Tuesday, so I'm kind of absorbed in other stuff the next few days Really appreciate all the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VulpX[TK] Posted September 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 My 2 week gaming hiatus is over, and yesterday I went back to the build. I trimmed the shins a semi-final time, did the second cover strip of one forearm, trimmed the thighs for a first fitting and started trimming the kidney plate... It's coming along nicely, but I haven't taken a lot of pictures of those things so sadly I can't post the progress. I wanted to start on my shoulder bells too, and drew lines where the edge of the mold is clearly visible: As you can see, the pencil line is clearly not straight (on the right one the line I drew isn't correct, when following the mold it actually looks a lot like the left one). I tried looking at pictures of other TM builds, and to me their edges on top of the bells look a lot straighter. Or is that just not the case and should I follow my lines when cutting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troopermaster Posted September 14, 2015 Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 Follow the mould lines. The sides are not straight and have a slight curve to them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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