Chills[TK] Posted October 6, 2015 Report Posted October 6, 2015 Good info in here. I know it's not on the CRL, but I was pretty sure 4-5 was the most common measurement (skipping the first big ridge) and what was used in the films. Richard, I think you're doing the right thing by keeping the gap between your back and kidney to a minimum. I think that's preferable to having the exact measurement on your bridges. 2 Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted October 6, 2015 Report Posted October 6, 2015 Who cares about accuracy of others when their armor own armor is not accurate? I don't know. I guess someone who's not only focused on his little person, and takes pride in helping other people achieving better armors than his. But whom am I talking with in the first place? ATA owner? Beh, following your rule I shouldn't even be talking with you, nor with my brother. Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 6, 2015 Report Posted October 6, 2015 (edited) I don't know. I guess someone who's not only focused on his little person, and takes pride in helping other people achieving better armors than his. But whom am I talking with in the first place? ATA owner? Beh, following your rule I shouldn't even be talking with you, nor with my brother. I was referring to your armor Edit: Point being if were going to call out every accuracy should we have our own ducks in a row? Set an example Edited October 6, 2015 by ukswrath Quote
VulpX[TK] Posted October 9, 2015 Author Report Posted October 9, 2015 (edited) As promised some pictures of how the shoulder straps look when worn: Obviously the back and chestplate need to be aligned a little better, but I think I won't need to adjust the shoulder straps. Right now it looks like they sit evenly on the chest and backplate, and that looks fine in my opinion. I did some more work this week. I riveted the ab, cod and kidney: I want to keep my whole armor modular and detachable, so the rivets aren't functional. Strapping will be done separately with snaps glued on. I also started painting this week: \\ \ All hand painted. This took a lot of patience, a little cursing, a lot of breath holding, but I think it turned out pretty good. It looks good from a distance and up close you can clearly see it's hand painted. Neat! Edited October 9, 2015 by VulpX 2 Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted October 9, 2015 Report Posted October 9, 2015 Very nice handpainting, and your split rivets are where they should be. Good job! On a side note, the snaps on the elastic shoulder bridges for the shoulder bells should be located on the inner side of the strap, on the neck side rather than on the outside like you did. 1 Quote
VulpX[TK] Posted October 9, 2015 Author Report Posted October 9, 2015 Very nice handpainting, and your split rivets are where they should be. Good job! On a side note, the snaps on the elastic shoulder bridges for the shoulder bells should be located on the inner side of the strap, on the neck side rather than on the outside like you did. Thanks for the compliment on my painting. I was really unsure about how it was going to look when I started it, but it turned out better then I thought myself capable of doing. I thought it was more logical for the snaps to be on the inside too after these pictures, I will do that from now on. Quote
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted October 9, 2015 Report Posted October 9, 2015 You have a much steadier hand than I do. Looking good, just add the black stripes.... unless you want to be a sandy. 1 Quote
VulpX[TK] Posted October 9, 2015 Author Report Posted October 9, 2015 You have a much steadier hand than I do. Looking good, just add the black stripes.... unless you want to be a sandy. I will, I just added the grey yesterday evening. I will do a second grey coat today and then the stripes tomorrow Quote
wingnut65[Staff] Posted October 9, 2015 Report Posted October 9, 2015 Nice painting! Wow, that looks great. Bucket painting is on my To-Do list for next week! I noticed the shoulder snap as well. If you have them all snap on-off, It should be easy to rotate or swap. I do have a question on that snap... I've seen some using the sew-on snap half for that snap so the head won't be visible. I' hope it is acceptable to have the snap visible so I can wrap up the snaps without another shopping trip. I just noticed an odd curve on the lower side of the right eye. Is it just the angle of the photo, or does it need a little heated persuasion to get back in shape? Quote
troopermaster Posted October 9, 2015 Report Posted October 9, 2015 I just noticed an odd curve on the lower side of the right eye. Is it just the angle of the photo, or does it need a little heated persuasion to get back in shape? 1 Quote
Mcott65[TK] Posted October 9, 2015 Report Posted October 9, 2015 I just noticed an odd curve on the lower side of the right eye. Is it just the angle of the photo, or does it need a little heated persuasion to get back in shape? That is a feature of the original helmet that TM has reproduced. Quote
Chills[TK] Posted October 13, 2015 Report Posted October 13, 2015 The helmet is looking really good. And those shoulder bridges turned out spot on. Keep up the good work! Quote
VulpX[TK] Posted October 14, 2015 Author Report Posted October 14, 2015 (edited) Thanks Chris, I will! I did some work again these past days. I finished painting the helmet: The tube stripes weren't applied neatly, so I will have to clean them up later with a toothpick. Next time, paint it white first to fill all the bubbles and apply the blue as a second layer! Handpainted FTW! Aw yeah, only the lenses and a thorough clean up left And I applied some helmet pads. For a snug fit I need to lose the top pad, but I had already applied the velcro. Ah well... Did some work on the rest of the armor too. Attached the holster to the belt. Done with Chicago screws, so it's detachable. Did some work on the shin hooks. The black thread I used might not be entirely accurate, but I like the contrast. Finished painting the abplate: I also started work attaching the snap plates everywhere. It's coming along, I hope to be finished this Saturday or Sunday . Edited October 14, 2015 by VulpX Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted October 15, 2015 Report Posted October 15, 2015 I love when all the paintjob is finished. There's not much, but it really brings the armor to life. Good work completing it. Quote
VulpX[TK] Posted October 18, 2015 Author Report Posted October 18, 2015 Woot! Final build update incoming! I installed the lenses using sugru. Didn't go as well as I would have liked. The lenses are a very thin platic, I think I'll look for somewhat thicker plastic in the future to redo them. I finished the shins: Final snaps glued and drying: And of course some white paint for the last details: This afternoon I finally put it all on for the first time, and took approval photo's (I won't post all of them here)! And this is how I feel right now! I want to thank everybody who gave me advice in this thread, especially Paul, without whom I would never I have this magnificent armour! Thanks a lot guys! I hope to be able to greet you guys soon as a fellow TK! 3 Quote
Chills[TK] Posted October 19, 2015 Report Posted October 19, 2015 Excellent work! That is one fine-looking set of armor. Get some latex hand guards and I see Centurion in your future! 1 Quote
VulpX[TK] Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Posted October 19, 2015 Excellent work! That is one fine-looking set of armor. Get some latex hand guards and I see Centurion in your future!Thanks! Fun fact, I already have rubber handguards and glued them Saturday evening. But Sunday morning I picked them up and the guards just fell off. Turns out E6000 doesn't work on rubber, so I quickly trimmed the handguards Paul supplied and gave them elastics so I could at least do the shoot later that afternoon. Rubber cement is on my to do list for this week Quote
Locitus[Admin] Posted October 19, 2015 Report Posted October 19, 2015 CA glue works on the rubber guards. 1 Quote
Airborne Trooper[501st] Posted October 19, 2015 Report Posted October 19, 2015 I used CA glue and it works great. Just give yourself plenty of room from the edge of the hand guards so you don't get run off. 1 Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted October 19, 2015 Report Posted October 19, 2015 (edited) I see you have a strap running from your biceps to your forearms, but right now it is far too long. You should shorten it until the top of the forearms reaches the bottom of the biceps. And if it feels not comfortable, you just adjust the height of the elbow joint by lowering your biceps armor. Otherwise it's looking really beautiful. Well done trooper! Edited October 19, 2015 by The5thHorseman 1 Quote
VulpX[TK] Posted October 19, 2015 Author Report Posted October 19, 2015 (edited) Thanks!Yeah, I noticed the forearms are too low, I finished the straps for those Sunday morning too, and this was actually the first time I had them on like this. Right now they don't feel right too, so I will definitely adjust them.I will probably use some of these photos for my EIB approval, and I will do a reshoot with the final adjustments and correct handguards for the Centurion application Right now I'm waiting on the initial approval as a TK. My local GML already said my photos are good, so I hope to hear more in the next few days. BTW, are the handguards removable after glueing with CA? I actually want to move them to nomex gloves after approval, for more comfortable trooping Edited October 19, 2015 by VulpX 1 Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted October 19, 2015 Report Posted October 19, 2015 Well, if you're already aware of the issue, consider me a happy man! Slowly, it's getting to be known that there should be no gaps at elbow joints. Yet my crusade continues, as i'm sure there are still some heretics to evangelize 2 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.