Richard's ANH Stunt 2 mm [TM]

[troopermaster]

The drop boxes are simple. Mark 15mm down on each corner of the larger/outer half of both parts then put a ruler between the marks and draw a pencil line all the way around. Trim close to the line and then rub the cut edge of the drop box on a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface until smooth. Offer the inner half inside the outer half but put it in backwards and mark a trim line using the edge of the outer box as a guide. Trim just inside the pencil line to make sure the inner part sits nicely inside the outer part.

 

Do not glue them together until you have fitted the elastic riveted to them and do that after you have the ammo section riveted to your canvas belt.

[VulpX[TK]]

Thanks Paul, I'll keep it in mind. Hope to do some more work on the boxes tonight after the thigh ammo strap. And I'm really eager to do another test fit with tape again to mark positions for the snaps and straps. Too little time in a day, I also need to make pancakes for dinner tonight 

[VulpX[TK]]

Okay, I boiled some water and put it in a vase to be able to put the ammo strap in and bend it when it is warm. I let the strap sit for about 40 seconds, it was a lot less rigid after that. I did both sides separately first, and now have some clamps on it to show how it would fit on the thigh:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think it could be a little more snug at the front there between the first and second and fourth and fifth box. Thoughts?

[wingnut65[Staff]]

Nice work, Richard!  I can't wait to get mine far enough for a test fit.

 

I had read that boiling water would help get the thigh boxes to form better. I'm going to watch yours to see how much I need to form mine!

 

Also, your build has a load of expert knowledge and advice!  I have been taking notes for a while from all the threads I've read, but what Paul and Tony have mentioned has filled up a whole page!  I probably wouldn't have thought about wearing the ab belt while measuring the mounting points!  Thanks for saving me an Ooops!

[VulpX[TK]]

Hey Jeff, good to hear that my noob questions and the excellent answers I get help others too! 

If I may recommend another great build thread with lots of info: check out Mark's ANH Hero build thread and Paul's ANH Hero build thread. I got a lot of useful info there! 

[VulpX[TK]]

Okay, I did another fitting this evening, this time with the basic strapping kit I got with the kit from Paul taped in place.

 

 

 

Halfway through the tape on the elastic in the left shoulder let go, so my gf did a hasty tape repair job. That's why the left shoulder is hanging even lower in these pictures.

 

 

 

Okay, Obviously the back can be lowered a bit. I can also wear the torso (abs, kidney, butt) a little higher, I'm going to construct a separate strapping system for that where those parts hang directly from my shoulder with height adjustable straps. 

The bells also need to be a little closer to the shoulder straps. My biceps need to go up a few centimeters. I think that will greatly improve the overall look. All in all, this looks way better then the previous taped version from a week ago 

[VulpX[TK]]

Okay, 2 more questions for my build.

 

I'm looking for bra hooks for the shins. Are these okay? 

 

Do I need to use a thinner like white spirit with my humbrol paint?

[Mcott65[TK]]

Hi Richard loving the build I was wondering about hook sizes also but they look like a good. The humbrol won't need thinning if its anything like mine but white spirit will thin it and also clean up any mistakes.

[VulpX[TK]]

Okay. I was wondering about the hook size too, I found another topic on the forums on the hook size and Dritz size 4 was actually recommended. But those seem near impossible to find. These number 3 hooks are half an inch in length, I imagine that would be big enough.

 

-edit- I found some 16mm hooks and eyes on a Dutch website. The Dritz hooks might be hard to find, but apparently hooks of that size are available with other brands. 

Edited September 30, 2015 by VulpX

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Okay. I was wondering about the hook size too, I found another topic on the forums on the hook size and Dritz size 4 was actually recommended. But those seem near impossible to find. These number 3 hooks are half an inch in length, I imagine that would be big enough.

 

-edit- I found some 16mm hooks and eyes on a Dutch website. The Dritz hooks might be hard to find, but apparently hooks of that size are available with other brands. 

 

I believe I used size 3 in addition to the "making your own calf hooks" tutorial I did last year. If you're interested...

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/29132-diy-rear-calf-closure-clips-aka-%E2%80%9Cbra-clips%E2%80%9D/

[VulpX[TK]]

That's a really nice tuturial, cool! I've already ordered the the hooks now though, they were only €6,- with shipping. 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

That's a really nice tuturial, cool! I've already ordered the the hooks now though, they were only €6,- with shipping. 

 

Yea that was my creative side, like everything else I do here lol

[wingnut65[Staff]]

I've always like Tony's elastic and hooks.  I still might do it that way,

 

For some reason, I had noted to use size 2 bra hooks for the calfs. But, for the minimal difference in size, 3 should be fine and may be just a little easier to connect. 

 

Mark is correct on the paint and thinner.  The only time thinner is really needed is when you plan to spray it through a spray gun.  Otherwise, straight from the bottle and use thinner for clean-up.

[VulpX[TK]]

Thanks for the painting tips guys. I will be handpainting, so no thinner needed right away, check.

[VulpX[TK]]

Okay, another update of my work these past couple of days. 

 

First the thigh ammo pack. I did some more bending using boiled water, did a final trim and riveted it to the thigh:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looks good imo 

 

 

 

I glued the two shoulder straps to the chestplate. I went with three ridges on the plate, with my size the back of the staps won't float above the back if I go with 5 ridges. And like Tony said, less ridges = more awesome chestplate.

 

 

 

 

I started working on the belt too. First trimmed the whole thing and made the 45 degrees angle in the corners:

 

 

Riveted to the canvas belt:

 

 

Square buttons:

 

 

 

 

And right now the inner and outer drop boxes are glued and drying. And with that the belt is finished but for the holster. And that's on it's way from Darman.

 

Ab buttons are all glued:

 

 

I made the thermal detonator today:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

During the detonator build the glue decided to explode 

 

 

Anyways, today marks a milestone in the build, I finished all components!  All that's left is cleanup of the parts, making and installing the strapping system and painting. 

[Chills[TK]]

Your progress looks great! Well done on all the pieces.

 

The only thing I notice is that the shoulder bridges don't come down as far as I think they need to. What I've seen on most armor is you count 4.5-5 ridges back, and line that up with the edge of the shoulder parts on the chest piece.

 

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

[VulpX[TK]]

Tony said anything between 3 and 5 was common. I went with 3 ridges because I think I'll need to wear the backplate a little lower to make the gap between my kidney and back acceptable. And then I need the extra length on the shoulder straps. But maybe it will be a little too much, in that case I can adjust them, it's all E6000 after all

[Mcott65[TK]]

Looking good Richard can't wait to see all on.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Tony said anything between 3 and 5 was common. I went with 3 ridges because I think I'll need to wear the backplate a little lower to make the gap between my kidney and back acceptable. And then I need the extra length on the shoulder straps. But maybe it will be a little too much, in that case I can adjust them, it's all E6000 after all

 

That is correct, there is no set standard because everyone's shoulders are different. 

 

Shoulder Straps

For 501st approval:

• These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. 

 

For level two certification (if applicable):

• No visible rivets are allowed.

For level three certification (if applicable):

• These shall free float in back.
• These shall be glued in front.
• The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece.

 

And screen accurate armor. If anyone cares to take a stab on how many ridges are present on the chest plate by all means have at it lol

 

[The5thHorseman[501st]]

Clearly five, without counting the first big one, to me. This is the most recurrent amount on original armors. 

 

It's not written in the CRL, but who cares about CRLs anyhow?

[VulpX[TK]]

Looks like I've stirred up some discussion 

Right now I'm glueing the snaps on the chest and back. I'll put it on tommorow and show it here, let's see how it looks. 

[Mcott65[TK]]

Mine has five on the front but I was counting the big one as the first so does that mean I only have four? Think aslong as it looks right on that is more important. Let's see it on I'll show you mine if you show me yours.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Edited October 6, 2015 by ukswrath

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Edited October 6, 2015 by ukswrath

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Mine has five on the front but I was counting the big one as the first so does that mean I only have four? Think aslong as it looks right on that is more important. Let's see it on I'll show you mine if you show me yours.

 

You're fine Mark