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Posted (edited)

Thanks guys! It is fun to work with the project again.

 

I haven't done much today, but I did manage to hammer in a couple of more snaps without getting a complaint from the neighbours. By the way, I found a tiny little hammer at the local hardware store. It fits perfectly in the palm, and makes it easy to use in curved spaces -- like a Stormtrooper armour. And it is the cutest little thing!

 

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Both holes measures 15 mm from the bottom ridge to the center.

 

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Difficult to see due to poor lighting and bad angles (you really need more than two hands during a build like this!), but the center of the left snap (my right side) is 28 mm from the ridge, and the right snap (my left side) is 56 mm from the ridge.

 

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The distance between the two is 343 mm.

 

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"A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present." -- Check

 

Edited by SimonBoba
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Posted

Any particular reason for those measurements?

 

Only asking because they may interfere with your belt fixings if you did not check first. I like to keep the distance from the vertical strips to the snaps the same on both sides (about 40mm) and I have the 20mm up from the lower ridge. The main ammo belt is not fixed central on the abdomen and the centre of the belt should line up with the centre of the abdomen button pate - not the cod strip. Just a friendly tip there :)

Posted

It was a bit tricky, since the abdomen (and also most of the parts) isn't symmetrical. It is easy to be fooled by your own eyes -- this has happened several times during the build. The "measure twice, cut once" mantra is golden.

 

I found the measurements in multiple build threads. I think it did line up pretty well, but I will keep it in mind when I do my final fitting of the belt.  :)

Posted (edited)

36 holes later...

 

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I did a test with the elastics. Looked good. I have removed it for now. I still have to glue on the shoulder straps and fasten the split rivets, and it is a bit easier to work without having the entire thing in one piece.

 

Edited by SimonBoba
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Posted (edited)

Long week, working the late shift, but here is a image dump of some of the work since last update. 

 

I have glued the shoulder ridges. Also pictured is the white elastic and the snap plate.

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Split rivets set, 6 in the side, 1 in the crouch (not pictured here).

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The button plates on abdomen has also been glued: 

ae-TyXoJ58JmCXlA0TBDSPQhZkOm2J-CEzsOYBzr

 

Edited by SimonBoba
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Posted (edited)

No one has ever accused me of having steady hands, so the paint job was terrifying. The vocoder looks awful, but the rest is borderline OK. Done with all the grey and black details, and are working on the blue tube stripes. I used the "hand painted" stencils from Trooperbay for this. Can't wait to pull them off and see how it turned out! It looks like a couple of stripes have run a bit underneath, but that is nothing a toothpick and some paint thinner can't fix.

 

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Next, I'll tackle the Thermal Detonator.

 

Edited by SimonBoba
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Posted

No one has ever accused me of having steady hands, so the paint job was terrifying. The vocoder looks awful, but the rest is borderline OK. Done with all the grey and black details, and are working on the blue tube stripes. I used the "hand painted" stencils from Trooperbay for this. Can't wait to pull them off and see how it turned out! It looks like a couple of stripes have run a bit underneath, but that is nothing a toothpick and some paint thinner can't fix.

 

 

 

Next, I'll tackle the Thermal Detonator.

 

Looking good Simon just a fyi, the tube stripes are to be positioned about a pencil width from the side of the face. If you were to place a pencil at the corner where the face meets the tubes, the stripes should be flush with the pencil, approximately. The picture you have up is washed out so it's a bit hard to tell where your stripes actually are. If they're correct disregard this message.

 

tube%20strips.jpg

Posted (edited)

Thanks. I did use a pencil width, but I might have messed it up. I placed the stencils a pencil width away, not the stripes themselves. Rookie mistake. I had planned on doing clean-up tonight, but I might need to redo the stripes.

 

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I took a quick measurement. The stripes are 12 mm away, which is approx. two pencil-widths.

 

What do you guys think? Should I clean them up and keep the stripes this way, or should I remove and redo?

 

Edited by SimonBoba
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Posted (edited)

So, I redid the tube stripes, but had to use the old stencils. What a disaster. I don't know where to start with the clean up, let alone how. But I just have to figure out a way.

 

While I work up some courage for that, I have assembled the Thermal Detonator.

 

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 At first I was worried about bending the metal rods, but it turned out to be the easiest part of the TD. 

 

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Some measurements, if anyone is interested:

Screws: slotted pan head screws, head is 6 mm wide 2 mm high painted black, screw is 3 mm wide, total length 18 mm.

Tube: 180 mm x 68 mm.

End caps: 20 mm.

Front face: 115 mm x 98 mm

Metal rods: 210 mm x 27 mm

 

Edited by SimonBoba
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Posted (edited)

I've spent two evenings on the tube stripes now. They were, as previously mentioned, a disaster. This is after some clean-up:

 

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New stencils would take too long, and I didn't dare to try freehand since this is more or less the first time I have used a paint brush in 25 years.

 

So I took my time, armed with a toothpick, a box of cotton swabs and some paint thinner, and have cleaned up both sides.

 

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The stripes are a bit ugly up close, but if kept at an arms length away, you won't see it. And they are now the correct distance, one pencil width, from the cheek.

 

Only the frown mesh remains, and the helmet should be done.

 

 

On 2015-11-19 at 10:02 PM, troopermaster said:

If those are the strips that came with the kit, the flat section should be 75mm long and the rest curved around the tube. It looks like you didn't curve the strip long enough.

 

Yes, this is the strips that came with the kit. I did not know of the 75 mm guideline. I figured that I liked the look with a front facing panel, and went ahead.

 

I have now reread the CRL (something one should do often during a build!), and it does actually state: "The white control panel pad faces upwards". So thanks for the heads-up! Clips adjusted accordingly, without much hassle:

 

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Edited by SimonBoba
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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

TK 32700 reporting for duty!

 

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Edited by SimonBoba
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