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Posted

For removing E-6000, I use my fingers, fingernails, and scrap ABS sticks.  Never anything harder than the plastic (so no knives!)

Posted (edited)

GF is hogging the macbook, also photobucket messed up. So no pictures just yet.

 

Todays deeds:

 

Cut out the buttons/covers for ab and belt.

Glued together both forearms.

Trimmed chest and back, ready for snap

Also trimmed (roughly) more on kidney.

 

 

*did I say I have a deadline on this? 23 august.

What do you think? Doable?

Edited by Ryth_
Posted

GF is hogging the macbook, also photobucket messed up. So no pictures just yet.

 

Todays deeds:

 

Cut out the buttons/covers for ab and belt.

Glued together both forearms.

Trimmed chest and back, ready for snap

Also trimmed (roughly) more on kidney.

 

 

*did I say I have a deadline on this? 23 august.

What do you think? Doable?

 Very doable to hit 8/23, but don't rush it just to hit a date. Easiest way to get through a lot real quickly is don't wait for a section to dry, just move on to the next parts. Just don't hit the wall like my poor build has /sigh

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

That's what I'm trying to do - wished I got more of my big magnets... that is now leaving me to only being able to do one arm at the time. Shins and tighs will be even worse. Got 30 pcs on it's way in the mail.

 

You've got a great build going on Khaz!  :)

 

 

Question!

I'm making snap plates on webbing - with 15 mm sport&camping prym snaps. Did one for testing now, and what it's "loose", like I can spin it around, but it has no vertical play. This is normal right?

 

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Edited by Ryth_
Posted (edited)

Yup, male snaps are very spinny.  The few that I made with the normal backing plate that gets crimped inside spin like crazy.  As long as there's no vertical play, you're fine.

 

I noticed in your pictures that you're using stacks of like 5 magnets in one place. Is that just because they're hard to separate?  You should look into making magnet sachets like Khazid and I.  They're SUPER helpful and easy to work with.  There's a post in the Tutorials section about it.  With the 1/16 magnets you're using, I'd recommend putting two in each sachet.

 

Edited to add: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31701-how-to-assemble-magnet-sachets/

Edited by Kredal
  • Like 1
Posted

Good to hear, I'll finish the rest today then!

 

Those smaller magnets was bought because I messed up the size.. didn't buy according to the correct diameter.

And there's a lot of them in one spot because it needed more preassure. But yes, they are hard to separate, and they

break easily. I might steal som fabric from my GF and make me some sachets.

 

Thanks!

Posted

Hi Stein. Good progress, so far.

 

I was looking at your bicep cover strips and they stick up a bit beyond the actual armor. You might want to trim that portion down a bit so they don't snag on anything when you are trooping.

Posted

Yes sir! I didn't want to trim them before sticking them on, so I could follow the curves with the last trim. Good spot ;)

  • Like 1
Posted

Good to hear, I'll finish the rest today then!

 

Those smaller magnets was bought because I messed up the size.. didn't buy according to the correct diameter.

And there's a lot of them in one spot because it needed more preassure. But yes, they are hard to separate, and they

break easily. I might steal som fabric from my GF and make me some sachets.

 

Thanks!

Just wrap them in painters tape and have the tape make a pull tab if you need it. Those sachets look very nice, but it's the biggest overkill in costume-prep I've seen in a long time.

Posted

Just wrap them in painters tape and have the tape make a pull tab if you need it. Those sachets look very nice, but it's the biggest overkill in costume-prep I've seen in a long time.

 

That's just like... your opinion, man.  (:

Posted

That's just like... your opinion, man.  (:

Yes it is. And I'm not willing to spend the time or effort to wrap individual magnets in little cloth sacks that will only get in the way when I want to stack multiple magnets, for a project where they get used once and once the costume is done will spend the rest of the year in a cupboard/toolbox until the next costume comes around.

Posted (edited)

Yes it is. And I'm not willing to spend the time or effort to wrap individual magnets in little cloth sacks that will only get in the way when I want to stack multiple magnets, for a project where they get used once and once the costume is done will spend the rest of the year in a cupboard/toolbox until the next costume comes around.

 

Heck I don't wrap magnets in anything. I have about 80 magnets I use during builds. With the exception of one chipping once in a great while if you use them correctly why wrap them? Never understood this.

 

Edit: Sorry Stein didn't mean to hijack your thread brother.

Edited by ukswrath
Posted

Mine chip quite easily. But them again, I'm building this thing on a small diner table. Might as well mask the bigger ones.

 

Anyone else having trouble with the editor in photobucket?

  • Like 1
Posted

Got photobucket to work again (chrome update messed it up), so here's an HEAVY update.

 

 

Upper ab and back snap plates are done.

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Also glued plates on shoulder bells.

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1/2 arms are done. Magnets, magnets, magnets. SIGH

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Bought me this monster from Fiskars.

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Worked on the buttons. Pretty much ready to go... just want to check how much edge I want to keep.

Will glue them on when I got magnets to spare.

 

6d2934ed-f990-4828-b527-39c77f762aff_zps

 

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Today I'll add snap plates on ab and back for bridge connection.

Posted

You're doing a great job so far. As far as if the snaps should spin or not, mine don't. I'm using Tandy Line 24 and maybe I'm beating the crap out of mine using the anvil set but mine don't budge. 

Posted

May it be because they had some glue on them?

Posted

I think you're fine since you said there's no vertical play. Just test a few out by snapping and unsnapping a few times. I apply an ample amount of E6000 when I glue the webbing down. 

Posted

It's on all my pryms, so it might be a prym-kind-of-thing. Just that kind of information that's impossible to find :)

 

Cheers for the info!

Posted

Recieved my new nylon webbing in the mail. Wanted to see if 1 1/2" would replace my 1" webbing.

But... it's quite smooth. A wee bit thinner than my roughter webbing.

 

Smoother vs rougher - which is better? For me it's logical that the rougher one would get more grip.

 

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Posted

Stein didn't know if you were finished yet but don't forget to remove the return edge from your ab button plates. Looking great sir.  :duim:

Posted

In addition to what Tony said, is the 4 button plate in that last picture sitting on the right side (when wearing the armor) of the ab? It should be on the left side.

 

Also, make sure you remove all the return edge from the belt rivet covers. They should be flat against the belt. 

 

Keep up the good work!

Posted

In addition to what Tony said, is the 4 button plate in that last picture sitting on the right side (when wearing the armor) of the ab? It should be on the left side.

 

Also, make sure you remove all the return edge from the belt rivet covers. They should be flat against the belt. 

 

Keep up the good work!

 

The button plate is on the correct side.  The picture is upside down, looking towards the bottom of the ab piece.  You can see the cod area at the top left of the picture, and the Y-shaped raised edge also at the top of the picture (detail is at the bottom of the ab plate)

Posted

Your ab button plates concern me. The center plate needs to have the flat flashing on the sides as a gluing surface and the ($) button plate needs to be flat next to the buttons themselves. See pic here:gallery_12157_16_28564.jpggallery_12157_16_11210.jpgThe 4 button plate is still fixable but the other one might need a replacement unless you can find a good way to attach it flush from the inside.

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