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Posted

So I am well with in the freak out phase after getting started on this project.

All the research I did I can say I didn't do enough...

 

I am building an ESB TK with the goal of EIB and Centurion so the constructive criticism is welcome and apreciated. 

 

So I have started my build and have been rough trimming and doing things as I feel I understand them...  I am not getting a lot done.

Can I get some pointers on trimming the chest, back and the cap&back.

 

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Thoughts?

Posted (edited)

Burninate the armor!

I'd say just trim conservatively until you're happy with it. try and maintain as much of the return edges that you can and if you have to trim more, you always can later. Way easier to take plastic away than to add it back. 

For the helmet, make sure you do plenty of test fits as you go.  And test fit the ears a lot to make sure your seams are hidden behind the ears. If you trim the dome part too much before getting an idea of how the ears will fit, you may regret it. 

 

Edited by netslave
  • Like 1
Posted

Also be sure to look through all the EIB and Centurion request threads. They should all have links to the build threads. I found those to be helpful. Resist the temptation to rush, take your time and research research research. Watch out for the kidney notch. That got me and I had to move the kidney and ab rivet locations. 

Posted

I'd recommend taking a couple of scrap pieces and make some ABS paste.  Make some cuts and holes and dents in another piece of scrap and use the paste to fix it.  Once you see that the plastic can be fixed, you'll be a lot more confident!

Posted

irrupt off thank you for all the quick replies.

 

I'd recommend taking a couple of scrap pieces and make some ABS paste.  Make some cuts and holes and dents in another piece of scrap and use the paste to fix it.  Once you see that the plastic can be fixed, you'll be a lot more confident!

I am definitely going to do this this weekend.  I have been saving small abs scraps in a mason jar for the eventual shimming of the thighs.  This also should help me figure out the elusive acetone to plastic ratio...

 

Burninate the armor!

I'd say just trim conservatively until you're happy with it. try and maintain as much of the return edges that you can and if you have to trim more, you always can later. Way easier to take plastic away than to add it back. 

For the helmet, make sure you do plenty of test fits as you go.  And test fit the ears a lot to make sure your seams are hidden behind the ears. If you trim the dome part too much before getting an idea of how the ears will fit, you may regret it. 

 

This has really been my approach so far.  The tough thing is as I get more things trimmed they start to depend on positioning relative to other pieces.  I have my sholder bells biceps and fore arms rough trimmed and taped and ready for fitting but as best I can tell so far they seem to depend on the chest and back bridge strap for spacing and rotation.  My thought was to get the core right and they align all other pieces from there.

 

Also be sure to look through all the EIB and Centurion request threads. They should all have links to the build threads. I found those to be helpful. Resist the temptation to rush, take your time and research research research. Watch out for the kidney notch. That got me and I had to move the kidney and ab rivet locations. 

Thanks,  I will.  I have several of them bookmarked already but I will look for more build thread links in them.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Quick update.  Basically I have been making snap plates for the strapping system and following the recomendation of testing with scrap on the repair front.  ABS paste isn't so bad.  Even the ratio of ABS scraps to Acetone isn't critical as you can always add more acetone and/or let some of the acetone evaporate.  I would love anyone recommendations for the spreading of the paste as my technique requires a ton of sanding to clean up.  Basically I am spreading it with a clean popsicle stick with a squared off end.  I am using masking tape to protect the surrounding area.  The main challenge seems to be getting it to fill the defect without bubbles or having a pass of the applicator pull the abs paste out of the defect.  

Posted

I decided to change gears for a bit and work on the bucket.  Here is my first pass on the teeth and eye sockets.  Feedback would be greatly aprectiated.

 

I have some pencil lines on the eye sockets where I thought I would go but I didn't want to go to far without asking first.  I have never seen a measurement on that but the size looked right to me including the wonky asymetry that drives me crazy.

 

IMG_4754_zps8rpkzsua.jpg

 

IMG_4757_zps12cww7ha.jpg

 

IMG_4755_zpsxcbvdsuh.jpg

 

Thanks!

Posted

Hey Joe and Congrats on your armor and good luck on your journey.  It is all very intimidating at first but once you get your first cuts down you will realize that it isn't that bad.  MTK is a great kit to work with.  I'm sure you have done a ton of research on this kit and you have seen that the biggest issue with the kit is the left forearm and bicep.  Please make sure that you do not cut too much off of the left forearm when you get there.  I kept the measurements of my right and left forearm the same and while I still don't have an issue getting into my left forearm it certainly is more snug.

 

So far your pencil line on your chest seems ok.  Like what Brian said above, just keep as much of a return edge as you can.  As far as your faceplate goes its hard to tell about your eyes especially on the top but it looks to me that you can take more off of the sides of the eyes.

Posted

Hey Joe and Congrats on your armor and good luck on your journey.  It is all very intimidating at first but once you get your first cuts down you will realize that it isn't that bad.  MTK is a great kit to work with.  I'm sure you have done a ton of research on this kit and you have seen that the biggest issue with the kit is the left forearm and bicep.  Please make sure that you do not cut too much off of the left forearm when you get there.  I kept the measurements of my right and left forearm the same and while I still don't have an issue getting into my left forearm it certainly is more snug.

 

So far your pencil line on your chest seems ok.  Like what Brian said above, just keep as much of a return edge as you can.  As far as your faceplate goes its hard to tell about your eyes especially on the top but it looks to me that you can take more off of the sides of the eyes.

Thanks Steve! I'll keep at it. It's hard as I dont ever want to cut too much off. I will say playing with abs paste and sand paper made me more comfortable but the feedback from others helps. After all this is my first build. You guys have already done this once or twice.

 

That said I re-examined some of my research links especially the ESB helmet video from Starwars helmets and your right on on the eyes. Definitely shallower inside.

 

I am happy to say MTK seems to be improving his molds as the shape difference (toybiz' build thread discusses this well)) seems to be corrected as well as the extra thumb print has been removed. He has been great to deal with and the fact that he has improved things based on troopers feed back is awesome. I have no problem telling others why I chose to go with his armor now.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hope to return to building this coming weekend. Did get some imperial boots in the mail though. Also ordered a second set of ears just in case....

 

I'm still here.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I'll be posting some pictures soon. I'm almost done with helmet assembly thanks to an armor party. Also the thermal detonator parts, clips are done and paint is drying. Fabric cut for my neck seal. <br><br>

On a side note I've had lots of problems with fisd DNS lately can only use on my home circuit not available at work on cellular.

Posted (edited)

As promised here is some of the progress With some questions thrown in.

 

Bucket:  Ready for paint?

IMG_4855_zpsdrniqnup.jpg

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Does anyone know the size of the ribs on the neck seal?  I was going with 1/4 inch.

 

Here is my test sample.  Please ignore the blue thread, my wife had that loaded in the machine and I was too lazy to change it out for a test.

IMG_4879_zpsglyknoek.jpg

 

 

Thermal detonator build.

Just finish work left: glue the control panel, sand the clips a bit more, borrow some metal snips to cut them to length and finish the bends.  Thanks to TK Bondservnt 2392!!!

 

IMG_4890_zpsx75lpnyr.jpg

 

IMG_4887_zpsx6m9felz.jpg

Edited by Trogdor
Posted

Taps the mic...  Is anyone out there? 

 

First test fitting told me a lot.  I can stand to lose more return edges all over the place, the ab will fit me just fine (no shims there).  The thighs are going to need serious shimming at the top.  I am going to post this in the local garrison board swell to see if I can get some help.  Perhaps at an upcoming armor party.

 

I was able to finish the Thermal detonator.  Finally something complete.

I also followed  toybiz's build thread and did the water bend of the knee packs.  It didn't come out as nice as his did.  I got some distortion on the top and bottom edges between the cells.  I was able to fix it up by re-heating and moving the clamps to bend the edges in and cooling.  I would recommend any one trying it use some sort of padding on the clamp faces that cover the whole height of the packs.  That would make it similar to panadtrooper's paint stick method for the ammo belt.  I'll post some pictures after I do the final trim and sand cleaning up the edges.

Posted

I have a Darman neck seal Joe and I will take a measurement of his for you when I dig it out. I don't know the measurement off the top of my head.<br><br>

Got any pictures of your test fitting?<br><br>

I know it's hard when your building armor and you have some questions that go unanswered. I will make an extra effort to stay up to date with you. the ESB threads just don't get as much attention as the ANH threads which is unfortunate.

Posted

I have a Darman neck seal Joe and I will take a measurement of his for you when I dig it out. I don't know the measurement off the top of my head.<br><br>

Got any pictures of your test fitting?<br><br>

I know it's hard when your building armor and you have some questions that go unanswered. I will make an extra effort to stay up to date with you. the ESB threads just don't get as much attention as the ANH threads which is unfortunate.

Thanks for the response.  It really is hard there are so many good threads out there so most probably don't follow a rookie.  Hind sight I should have gone ANH as your right its much higher traffic.  I will try to get the pictures on tonight or take some new ones now that I have cut the thighs to show everyone exactly how much shimming I will have to do. 

Posted

No no. ESB is the way to go and we look cooler :). Here to help or give advise if you want. I finished my kit in May and have made mods every troop. This will happen as you will see what needs to be sanded or trimmed. Near armor bites yet which is a plus.

  • Like 1
Posted

Jamie is right Joe.  ESB is still an awesome version.  I am actually in the process of making the extra items so I can switch back and forth between ANH and ESB when I want.  I am currently making my MTK bucket as ESB and will hopefully be done with it when I get over the nerves of trimming the ears again. 

 

Anyway I took measurements on the Darman neckseal and I dont know if it is on purpose or by accident but there are two measurements.  It alternates between ribs and I came up with 5/16 Inch and then 3/8 inch.  Again I don't know much about neckseals so I don't know if this is the accurate measurements or if this is the way Darman likes to make his.

Posted

The bad news is I will need to retake the test fitting photos.  The good news is I painted the ears and got the decals on.  Didn't turn out exactly as I wanted with the brow traps and trim but hopefully its not a deal breaker.

 

So here are some photo updates.

 

Thermal detonator, need to round the corners facing me and the armor as they are a bit sharp.

IMG_4896_zpss92jy0so.jpg

IMG_4897_zpsfdyjgi9n.jpg

 

Ears painted.  Need to paint the bars. Suggestions?

IMG_4919_zps9ydhe8el.jpg

 

Decals (minus the tube stripes as the ears are drying).  Thanks to TK4510 for the decal video.

IMG_4920_zpsou1uekpw.jpg

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Homemade neckseal. Went with about a 1/4 inch stitch spacing.  I have more materials so if I have to make a new one its not the end of the world.

 

IMG_4924_zpsvytrp8sh.jpg

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Posted

No no. ESB is the way to go and we look cooler :). Here to help or give advise if you want. I finished my kit in May and have made mods every troop. This will happen as you will see what needs to be sanded or trimmed. Near armor bites yet which is a plus.

 

 

Jamie is right Joe.  ESB is still an awesome version.  I am actually in the process of making the extra items so I can switch back and forth between ANH and ESB when I want.  I am currently making my MTK bucket as ESB and will hopefully be done with it when I get over the nerves of trimming the ears again. 

 

Anyway I took measurements on the Darman neckseal and I dont know if it is on purpose or by accident but there are two measurements.  It alternates between ribs and I came up with 5/16 Inch and then 3/8 inch.  Again I don't know much about neckseals so I don't know if this is the accurate measurements or if this is the way Darman likes to make his.

 

Thanks guys.  I am committed the decals are on the bucket after all.  Call anything out you see wrong I may try to be like Steve (centurion) one day.

 

Did you guys go with satin black for the chin and the frown.  I am finding mixed information on that.  Also on the underside on the chin, I have been going through the centurion threads again and it seems like its a black strip to meet the neck trim.  Is that correct?

 

Steve, I may have a second set of mtk ears if mine are good. 

Posted

Hey looking good Joe.  As far as the ear ranks go I believe it is up to you.  It appears that most people paint two bars together and then have a space for the third one.

 

I believe the accurate color for the vocoder and the frown is satin black.  That is what I used for mine.  And here is a picture of the chin on my troopermaster helmet that was done by Paul.

 

IMG_2787.jpg

 

Great work that is right there isn't it?  When I did mine, I tried to copy that and it is not even close to as nice!

  • Like 1
Posted

So all this talk inspired me to get back to work on the bucket tonight.  What do you think?  I definitely didn't have the steady hand for this tonight but I'll let you guys judge.

 

Frown, lens and tube stripes.

IMG_4946_zpsv1q6d0sy.jpg

 

Vocorder and aerators

IMG_4947_zpspn6qjmwo.jpg

 

chin and appearently uncut trim

IMG_4948_zpsffngnlk5.jpg

Posted

Looks great. Satin black is the correct color. The ears look good as well. The rank bars are your choice. I went with a screen shot that has 2 bars on one ear and 3 on the other. Also there have been discussions on the board about rank bar placement. Last I saw and what i did, the rank bars go between the bumps on the ears, not on the bumps. Also you want the tube stripes to be the width of a pencil away from the side (tear area) on the bucket. Some peeps put them too far away and it doesn't look right. For your TD, put a fuzzy side piece of velco on the clip side that goes against your armor. This will stop the metal clip from gouging your armor when you put it on and take it off. Great job so far and awesome job staying an ESB. I may be a little biased but I think we look cooler and there doesn't seem to be as many ESB TK's. Keep the pics coming

Posted (edited)

Darth Havoc Thanks for the feedback. I'll definitely take the tip on the fuzzy Velcro on the clips. I did change the bend on the clips to be more accurate. I'll post pics. But I'm not that worked as it goes under the belt. I have enough material left to remake in the future if required. I am happy to have the helmet done and now I need to get the glue out and get back to the armor.<br><br>

I'll get some test fitting shots taken and posted to get some feed back.<br><br>

I have a plan for the thigh shims but my test piece failed because it wasn't completely dry when I started sanding so the core piece in the gap tore out... I'll have to repeat the test. <br><br><br>

I see the new first order troopers are using bondo(not bindi) in some places is there a reason I should consider that?

Edited by Trogdor

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