Thrawns Guard's ANH E11 blaster build

[Thrawn's guard]

As promised in my earlier post here is my latest update showing work that I have done so far on the scope.

 

I almost had to force myself to start cutting in to it as I didn't want to have a major disaster on my hands however once I got started things felt much better.

 

First of all I used a fine cutting disk on my Dremel to cut around the end of the scope closest to where the small lens will be installed. I needed to finish off the cut with a coping saw because the cutting disc wasn't large enough to cut all the way through.

 

I decided that the best place to cut the scope was where the scope actually has a joint that way when I come to put it all back together I will be able to properly hide the fact that I have cut it open.

 

I then repeated the same process at the end of the scope towards the large lens.

 

The next step was a little tricky as I don't have a vice (yet). I placed the 2 sections of the scope that I had removed in a workbench and carefully marked the centre of the resin lenses for drilling. To do this I measured the diameter of the lens with digital callipers than adjusted the callipers to have the distance. I then used the callipers adjusted in this way to locate the centre of each lens by measuring twice at 90 degrees to each other.

 

An an electric drill was then used to carefully drill out the resin lenses.

 

 

I then set up 2 drills,(I only used 2 drills just to save the time of swapping drill bits), the first with a 10mm diameter drill bit and the second with a 20mm drill bit and drilled alternately with the small drill bit and then with the larger drill bit to start to hollow out the main section of the scope. I started drilling from the end adjacent to the larger lens.

 

 

 

 

I was concious that as the scope narrows the deeper I was drilling so checked the depth of the hole that I had drilled with calliper regularly. Once I got to a depth of 46mm I replaced the 20mm drill bit with a 10mm drill bit and drilled the rest of the way through (I may open this up a little more tomorrow).

 

I wanted to make sure that I didn't drill through the wall of the scope by drilling too deep with the larger diameter bit (It is easier to remove more resin later if needed than repair the wall of the scope).

 

 

 

I still have much to do and most, if not all of what I have done here, is based on a number of other really helpful threads. In particular Squimspickle's M38 excellent scope thread provided me with the inspiration to carry out this modification.

 

Tomorrow however I am going to aim to carry out some further modifications that I don't think have been done before.....Hopefully I'll be successful and if not at least I have some green stuff to hand.

 

I must say when I first bought the DD kit I never imagined that I would be cutting and carving it up and really enjoying myself whilst doing it 

Edited July 23, 2015 by Thrawn's guard

[Thrawn's guard]

Can anyone post a close up picture of the rear sight of a real Sterling ?

 

I would like to upgrade the side bolt detail but want to make sure that what I do is as accurate as possible.

[Twnbrother]

Can anyone post a close up picture of the rear sight of a real Sterling ?

 

I would like to upgrade the side bolt detail but want to make sure that what I do is as accurate as possible.

I used a hex bolt, but I think I am incorrect...  Some that I have seen look kinda like rivets.

[Thrawn's guard]

Michael - I have also seen both of these but am not sure which is correct (Unless both are correct for Sterlings manufactured in different years i,e. unless the design changed from one to another).

 

EDIT - I found this on the photo reference gallery.

Edited July 24, 2015 by Thrawn's guard

[Twnbrother]

That is the rivet looking one I saw. Might be hard to find a washer small enough to do what you did in the folding stock. I think you may be right about what year or what version of the Sterling makes the difference on the rear sight. I will keep my eyes open for a replica part and let you know.

Edited July 24, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Tr00per]

Here's what it is made out of..

 

 

And two different sight range flips..

The left one is a MK3 and right MK4

 

Edited July 24, 2015 by Tr00per

[Thrawn's guard]

Thanks for the feedback guys it is very much appreciated.

 

Do we know which were 'screen used' ?

 

EDIT - I have an idea how to possibly recreate the sight rivet detail shown in the picture I posted above. I'll look in to this a little further.

Edited July 24, 2015 by Thrawn's guard

[Thrawn's guard]

Well I have made some good progress with the scope but finished too later to post pictures so I will do that tomorrow.

What I have been working on is how to get light to pass through the scope in a more realistic way. The problem is that because the scope is cranked you do not look directly through a single cylinder and as a result because the scope is staggered you get a very limited amount of light passing through.

I have however managed to come up with a system of mirrors prisms which reflect the light around this step in the scope.

Initial results look very promising.

I will be keen to see what people's thoughts and feedback is on what I have done once I post pictures.

Edited July 25, 2015 by Thrawn's guard

[hupspring[TK]]

I look forward to seeing how you set up the mirror system...I tried that but since I don't know what I'm doing it didn't work

[Thrawn's guard]

I will post full deals later on what I have been working on and how I did it however here is a quick teaser of the trial assembled scope.

 

This is not the best photograph however it was difficult to hold the scope, the phone and get the phone to focus on the correct part whilst looking directly through the scope but it does give a good idea of how this is working.

 

I incorrectly stated earlier that I had used a mirror system to get the light to pass through the scope (I actually used 2 glass prisms).

 

Images viewed through the scope are actually in focus however they are upside-down. I have been trying to flip the image the correct way around but due to the limited space in the scope have been struggling. I did manage to flip the image the correct way around but found that I couldn't get it to focus correctly when I introduced an additional lens.

 

That said I am very pleased with the effect.

 

I do have two quick questions if anyone is able to help.

 

1) Does anyone know if there is a screen accurate cross-hair or do people generally come up with there own ?

 

2) I have also tested a prototype cross-hair effect which seems to work well but I need to think about how I go about producing the final version. Effectively I need to produce a good quality cross-hair on a thin circular sheet of glass or other transparent material. I do have an idea myself but don't yet know if it will work out. Does anyone have any suggestions for this ?

Edited November 4, 2015 by Thrawn's guard

[Thrawn's guard]

The scope build has turned out to be a project in itself however I have been enjoying the challenge.

 

The next stage of the scope modification uses parts taken from the monocular shown on the first page of this thread and as far as I am aware has not been done previously.

 

I decided to incorporate the large lens housing from the monocular as this would hold the lens firmly in place and also provide the ‘correct’ smooth appearance when looking through the scope.

 

In order to locate the lens in the correct position in the scope I did however need to remove the front end of the housing using a Dremel and smooth it off/removing sharp edges using a fine sand paper.

 

Next I needed to tidy up the large end of the resin scope but also ensure that I retained a small lip to prevent the lens housing from falling out. This was achieved by gently using a sanding bit on the Dremel and checking the fit on a regular basis.

 

 

 

The rear section of the scope housing also needs to be embedded in to the central section of the resin scope but at first wouldn't fit.

 

 

Again I gently used a sanding bit on a Dremel to enlarge the diameter of the opening in the resin scope to allow me to fit the lens housing in place. If done carefully a tight fit that doesn't require any gluing can be achieved. I didn't want to glue anything in because I would like the option to be able to tweak the scope and allow access for later work.

 

 

 

Once this is complete the 3 sections of the scope can be trial fitted.

 

Edited July 25, 2015 by Thrawn's guard

[Thrawn's guard]

At this stage it can be seen that the problem encountered is that the scope is offset so that light can't pass directly though. This picture shows what you will see when you join the smaller end of the scope to the central section.



In order to overcome this I took the 2 prisms from the monocular and set about planning how I could use these to bend the light around the step in the scope.



I have provided below a picture of the theory of how this works to hopefully clarify what I am trying to describe.



The main issue here is that the prisms are almost as long as the scope diameter so care is required when installing them (There is not much room for error….though there is green stuff).

Taking one of the prisms and placing it on top of the central section of the resin scope a fine pencil can be used to mark out the profile of the prism. This shows the shape and size of the recess that is required to be made in the central section of the scope.



Taking a Dremel I carefully started to remove resin using the pencil line as a guide.





NOTE - Care must be taken to not drill through the kink in the scope (This kink also restricts the depth that the prisms can be embedded in the scope).

After much drilling and sanding I reached the stage where I was unable to excavate any further without risk of making a hole in the wall of the scope (If it is possible to use slightly smaller prisms this would be an easier task).

The 2 prisms are then dropped in to position remembering to clean then both before installing then otherwise you will have finger prints when looking through the scope.





As can be seen from the photograph above the ‘corner’ of the second prism to be installed projects out of the central section. Therefore the solution to ensure that the prisms can be installed is to open out a small section of the end scope section (See below).



We now have the 3 sections of the scope ready to be trial fitted. I installed the small lens from the monocular in to the small lens housing in the resin scope and then fitted the 3 sections together temporarily sticking them together with some masking tape.







This was where I got to when I took the picture through the scope that I posted earlier. Nothing has been glued as yet as I need to be able to open up the scope to install the crosshairs once I have sorted that out.

I will post further updates as I progress.

Edited November 4, 2015 by Thrawn's guard

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Pretty amazing mod on the scope and the magazine release knob. Your scope with the prisms installed might be the first of its kind. I admire your effort to push the limits on what can be possible.

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Can anyone post a close up picture of the rear sight of a real Sterling ?

 

I would like to upgrade the side bolt detail but want to make sure that what I do is as accurate as possible.

Check out chapter 20 / post#22 in the e-11 blaster reference. And chapter 31 for the detailed blueprint of the rear sight. I tried to make the exact parts for the rivet effect but ended up just creating a cosmetic effect. The middle Pin goes all the way through but the outer rings , I just hammered some thin aluminum piping to create the round donut contour. Hope that makes sense. Just by looking at the reference photos inMod A , you can see what I mean.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32111-fisd-e-11-blaster-reference/?p=414383

[usaeatt2]

I'm not British, but, BLOODY HELL!

 

NICE WORK, Chris!  Top man!!! 

 

I'll be reading this entire thread VERY carefully tomorrow!  Mind BLOWN...

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Thought I'd better check in on the amazing build Tino told me about. Some awesome mods there Chris! Way to go

[Thrawn's guard]

Thanks guys for the positive feedback and kind words. I'm just happy to be able to try to contribute to this great community.

 

I came across the E11 blaster reference thread late last night and quickly flicked through it to see what was there. I intend to read through it thoroughly today as it looked just what you need as an additional aid and easy point of reference when putting your blaster together.

 

@ Brian - The rivet detail that you referred me to above for the rear sight is exactly what I was looking to produce so thank you very much.

[Twnbrother]

Chris, the prism is a great idea....  I wish I had saved the ones in my scope.  Cant wait to see finished shots 

[Thrawn's guard]

I've not been able to do too much with the scope today as I have spayed they inside gloss black and want to make sure that the paint has properly dried before I start putting the scope back together

 

I also have to decide on the scope reticle I intend to use.

[Thrawn's guard]

I don;'t have too much to show in this update as much of my time yesterday was spent waiting for paint to dry (I did however do some further work on the magazine housing so will post that once I have completed posting details of the work done on the scope)..

 

Having looked at the internals of the monocular I decided that I needed to coat the interior of the scope with a gloss black finish.

 

Firstly the scope is masked off with masking tape.

 

This tape is then removed with a sharp knife to allow the paint to be sprayed in to the internal sections of the scope that will be visible whilst looking through the scope.

 

 

I applied 3 thin layers of black gloss allowing the paint to dry between each coat.

 

The very front section of the scope does not require the gloss black finish as the large lens housing will be installed in to this section and therefore the interior of this section will not be visible.

 

The next step will be to paint the exterior with brass paint before covering with a gloss black finish. I will then be able to lightly sand the black gloss paint off in area where I want a weathering effect so that the brass paint below shows through.

 

I will look at doing this when I get home later today and should then be in a position to assemble the scope during the course of tomorrow.

 

One quick question. Is it normal practice to install the screws in the scope prior to painting and to protect them or do the screws tend to be installed after painting ?

 

I am tempted to leave them out and install after I have applied the black glass finish.

[Twnbrother]

Chris I would use flat black for the exterior of the scope. The gloss will not look like the real one.

 

I left my screws out on the scope when I painted but when I did the counter I cover them with tape. Afterwards I prefer putting them in after the paint. Either way is fine.

 

I really like the way youre scope is coming along.

[Thrawn's guard]

Good spot Michael I'll use flat black for the exterior of the scope and will also install the screws after painting.

 

 

Whilst I wait for the paint to dry on my scope build, which has literally been like watching paint dry, I thought that I would keep busy by working on other areas of the blaster that I want to modify.

 

I drilled the rear of the magazine housing in preparation to screwing it to the main body of the blaster.

 

 

My magazine currently has a tight fit within the magazine housing however as I want the magazine to be removable and want to ensure that over time this fit doesn't become slack I decided to install small but strong magnets to hold things in place. What I also wanted however is that these magnets would be hidden from view when the magazine is removed.

 

Therefore I used a drill to counter bore the internal face of the housing ensuring that the depth of the counter bore was slightly deeper than the thickness of the magnet. The magnet was then placed in the counter bore (This is to ensure everything fits flush later and to allow me to cover the magnets),

 

 

I then measured to position of the magnet in the housing with some digital callipers and marked out the equivalent position on the end of the magazine.

 

 

The same process was then used to counter bore a hole in the end of the magazine for a second magnet making sure that I had both magnets orientation the correct way. 

 

 

Both magnets were glued in to place using super glue and once dried covered with a thin layer of green stuff. Once painted both magnets should now be hidden from view.

 

 

Once the green stiff had fully dried the magazine slotted in to the housing but also has a very reassuring feel as the magazine is pulled tightly in to position.

 

[I'm Batman[501st]]

Good idea covering the magnets up. Should look good once painted. Lets hope the super glue is stronger than than the magnets 

[Thrawn's guard]

Another small update on last night’s work (The scope is still in the process of being painted).

 

Taking the larger grub screw included in Tino’s Completion Set the diameter was measured with callipers.

 

 

The resin cast grub screw on the magazine housing was then drilled out with a 6mm diameter drill bit and any remaining flashing carefully removed with a fine file.

 

The depth of the hole was increased gradually by test fitting the grub screw until a depth was achieved whereby the grub screw projected just above the resin. A small spot of glue was then placed in to the base of the hole and the grub screw pushed firmly in to position.

[Thrawn's guard]

The next task was to upgrade my front sight pin housing.

 

Taking the smaller of the grub screws I Tino’s Completion Set I carefully installed these In to the side of the front pin housing that I produced with a 3D printer (See page 2 of this thread).

 

I have a little tidying up to so but the photos give a good idea of how it all comes together.

Edited July 29, 2015 by Thrawn's guard