Ukswrath's AM 1.0 build

[SheaJeff[TK]]

I have the AM 2.0 kit and received 2 different belts and square buttons.  

 

I noticed that in Section 11 you were using the one with the square depressions and the bigger diameter buttons.  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-ata-bucket-build/page-3

 

I'm going for ANH Stunt TK and HWT.

Which belt and buttons are correct, and what's the other one for?

 

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Shea use the belt WITHOUT the indents. The indented belt is not accepted at L3 (Centurion)

[SheaJeff[TK]]

I'm just going for basic. The indented one would be fine, right?

What about the square covers. Which ones?

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Then use the larger of the two

 

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[kennethmterry]

All of the 90 pages of notes I have been compiling over the past 6 months are now obsolete. Tony (UKSWRATH) has a complete guide on how to build a set of Stormtrooper Armor from A to B. I really wish I would have stumbled upon this earlier. I am in complete Awe. Thank You So Much….

[SheaJeff[TK]]

I started my build about 2 months ago and am ready for approval. I couldn't have done it without Tony's builds for sure! At least not so quickly.

 

 

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[ukswrath[Staff]]

Glad to be of assistance 

[kennethmterry]

13. Kidney

 

After fitment trimming the 22mm notches were measured and cut out.

 

 

 

30mm reinforcement strip added.

 

 

Right side

 

 

 

 

Side rivet holes measured and drilled, left side.

 

 

 

Install split rivets. 

 

 

 

13a. Taking a break from the split rivets, measure and installed snap mounts. All mount were positioned 20mm from the edge of the kidney and to the edge of the webbing.

 

 

 

Let dry

 

Can someone please answer me why is this notch cut out of the kidney plate? I am sure someone can give me an answer which I can not for the life of me figure out why this notch is so important. However, it is a Centurion requirment.

Edited July 18, 2016 by kennethmterry

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Because this is the what the screen used armor looks like   

 

 

Also, and please don't kill me, but recently it was decided the 22mm notch is not required to be cut if you're armor didn't come with it. I haven't had a chance to update this thread to reflect the new rule. On a positive not you did an excellent job and it look s awesome 

[CrookKnight[TK]]

Where do you get the magnets from that you use to hold things in place while they dry?

 

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[ukswrath[Staff]]

Where do you get the magnets from that you use to hold things in place while they dry?

 

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1/2" x 1/8" Disc Rare Earth

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-x-1-8-Inch-Strong-Neodymium-Rare-Earth-Disc-Magnets-N48-30-Pack-/151745753340?hash=item2354c070fc:g:1kAAAOSwPcVVp-44

[ukswrath[Staff]]

22mm notch reference updated

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31920-ukswraths-am-10-ata-bucket-build/?p=419069

 

NOTE: It is not required to add the 22mm notch if your armor didn't come with it. At this point it is only being done to increase the accuracy of the build.

[kennethmterry]

Tony,

 

I am putting together a child's armor which has been reduced by 20% in size. So should I reduce all measurements by 20% for items such as thermal detonator and such? So the tube would be reduced from 7.5 inches to 6 inches... Would that be a fair assumption?

Edited August 1, 2016 by kennethmterry

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Hey Kenneth, that should work though I'm surprised the TD isn't scaled down already.  

[DevilDog[TK]]

I started my build about 2 months ago and am ready for approval. I couldn't have done it without Tony's builds for sure! At least not so quickly.

 

 

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No doubt.  I'm building an AP armor kit, but this thread and even Tony's Anovos build thrad have been invaluable references.  Tony, you're the man!

 

Many, many, many, thanks!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Thanks for the kudos Bill. Glad to be of assistance 

[illusionz_09[TK]]

Hey Kenneth, that should work though I'm surprised the TD isn't scaled down already.  

my thoughts exactly.

But in either case, i would say it would be safe to assume to make sure everything on the build is scaled down the same percentage lol

[cwalker501[TK]]

What are the measurement for cutting the rounded off trim on the back of the thigh and shin.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

What are the measurement for cutting the rounded off trim on the back of the thigh and shin.

 

Hey Clayton if you're referring to cutting for mobility we suggest not cutting too much further than the removal of return edge.  

[DZFireMedic[TK]]

11b. Belt cont... & final
 
So, continuing on... ATA belt
 
After removing the return edge I was left with the final trimming. At each end remove outer edge until I had 48mm (1-4/3") remaining from edge to the last box. Trim the corners 45 degrees and find the center of the belt at all three mounting locations.
 
 


 
 
11d. Drill holes using 1/8" drill bit.
 

 
 
11e. Center on cloth belt using previous ammo pack measurements and rivet belts together. Note: Though not needed I use aluminum washers with the rivets to strengthen the attachment area.
 


 
11f. Trim river covers.
 

 
 
11g. Install rivet caps using E600 and large clamps.
 

 
 
Finished.
 

Wow so amazing! So read through the whole thing and not sure if I missed it, but how do you go about securing the belt back onto itself? It appears seamless. Thanks!


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[ukswrath[Staff]]

Hey Derek if you're referring to where the ends of the cloth belt meet it's vercro .

 

Thanks for the kudos

[Helotech[TK]]

uk,

 

First on a side note. I ordered and am still in the process of installing your excellent Helmet electronics. Fantastic system.

The helmet buld has been put on hold while I sort out the armor update.

 

Sorry to post these in your thread, but I require some much needed clarification.

I'm working on updating my SDS for basic approval, with a possibility of updating the armor to the highest level I can. Haven't started trimming any ABS yet.

The SDS uses overlap construction on the forearm and bicep front and back. Glued on front, velcro on back.

Thighs and shins are butt joined front with cover strips, and overlap with Velcro closure on back.

The pieces with overlap have the raised "simulated" cover strips.

See the attached photos of right forearm.

I noticed in this build you trimmed what I assume is the raised portion (hard for me to make it out from your pics), then added interior and exterior cover strips.

Am I to remove all traces of the simulated raised cover strips from all pieces?

 

Glued front of forearms is at right of pic. Velcro closure to the left.

Raised front strip is pronounced top to bottom,

The back strip is shallow at the top, pronounced at the bottom.

 

This is the right forearm, with glued front area.  Projected cut line in red. Would I also cut the slightly raised area on the other side of the joint?

 

Back joint. The molded-in cover strip is very shallow at the upper arm.

 

Velcro closure. Shallow top, deeper mold at bottom of forearm (far end of pic)

 

Thanks for any help you can provide.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Hey Dave sorry for the late reply. Is there a reason you're using Velcro on the forearms? Is it absolutely necessary?

[Helotech[TK]]

No worries.

The Velcro came attached as is with the armor. The SDS armor comes assembled and ready to wear.

I assumed it was supposed to be there, and could allow people with larger hands / arms to put the forearm on.

I tried slipping my hand through instead of using Velcro opening and it barely made it through. This may change once I grind off the return on the bottom.

I just reread the CRL and in basic approval and it states forearm must be fully closed. Does this mean it must be glued fully closed?

I’m not opposed to gluing it completely shut, as long as it gets approved.

Any thoughts on my question about changing it to butt joint and cover strip?

 

Your help is greatly appreciated.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

10 hours ago, Helotech said:

No worries.

The Velcro came attached as is with the armor. The SDS armor comes assembled and ready to wear.

I assumed it was supposed to be there, and could allow people with larger hands / arms to put the forearm on.

I tried slipping my hand through instead of using Velcro opening and it barely made it through. This may change once I grind off the return on the bottom.

I just reread the CRL and in basic approval and it states forearm must be fully closed. Does this mean it must be glued fully closed?

I’m not opposed to gluing it completely shut, as long as it gets approved.

Any thoughts on my question about changing it to butt joint and cover strip?

 

Your help is greatly appreciated.

Glued fully closed is required for approval

Remove all wrist side return edge is only required for Centurion. It also greatly helps when entering and exiting your armor

There are SDS Centurions that are built to butt and strip standards. Follow a suitable build thread (even this AM build), something that gives the correct building guidance.

Start your own build thread if you haven't already. We can help as you build.

 

Hope this helps