Ukswrath's FOTK build thread

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Trimming cont...

 

Ab boxes

 

NOTE: The most complex boxes have heavy pics.

 

#2 on the Ab plate, 9F box

 

 

#3 on the Ab plate, 9G box

 

 

#4 on the Ab plate, 9H box

 

 

#5 on the ab plate, 9I box

 

 

 

#6 on the Ab plate, 9J box

 

Edited August 16, 2015 by ukswrath

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work on the shaping

[Mayday73]

Great pics so far , just out of interest do you get any instructions or tips included from Anovos when you get your kit ?, I think thanks to yours and others threads here i will be able to bluff my way through this but it would be cool if i get a least a list of what goes where from the makers

[ukswrath[Staff]]

No instructions just following or not following what others have done, looking at screen and behind the scene pics. The build specifics it seems is still up to interpretation within reason.

 

Though the current version of armor clearly lacks some details my goal is to refrence as many screen pics and utilize the experience of prior builders.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Alpha group did things a certain way because of the generation of armor they were sold, not too many reference pics to go by and time constraints.

Beta group have some upgrades, more reference pics and the guidance of others. Gamma group I suspect, ok maybe not, I was going to say have it easier. But at this point who knows.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Lol

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Trimming cont....

 

Belt boxes

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

ASSEMBLY TIME, WOO HOO!    :happy and cheerful birthday:

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Assemble tools and material.

 

Tools: A boat load of earth magnets and clamps. Cut resistant & neoprene gloves, old (clean) rag, something small and metal to scrape excess glue with. Safety glasses. Adequate ventilation. 

Material: Devcon plastic Welder II x2, Devcon dispensing gun and 10 mix tips.

 

As per manufacturers instruction store bonding cartridge in a cool place 75 Degrees on average... AH HAHAHAHA! That's funny. Before I read this (at assembly time) I'd had it in my garage for over a month where the afternoon temps were in the 90s and 100s  Needless to say I was a bit nervous that the stuff would be junk. Well all is well in ukswrath buildville I'm happy to report. 

 

Here's the goodies 

 

 

 

Instructions:

 

Assemble gun. Install cartridge and close lock. Remove cap at the end of cartridge by twisting and pulling,

WARNING: Clean cap of excess glue. YOU WILL NEED THIS CAP.

 

Install mixing tip. Squeeze trigger to begin the bonding agent mix.

 

Apply mixed glue, 1/8" bead, to one side of section to be bonded. Apply around the edge to gain maximum bond without wasting glue. This stuff is strong, a little goes a long way. See image provided for example.  BTW heed my warnings when prompted.

 

Depending on ambient temperature the glue will start to dry (skin over) in 2-5 minutes. Full cure time is 45 minutes.

WARNING: The glue mixes as it travels through the tip, this too will begin to harden in 10-15 minutes if not in a constant state of flow.

 

NOTE: After glue is applied, ANY excess glue squeezing out you should try to remove immediately with a small screw driver or something small and metallic. DO NOT USE PLASTIC!

When this stuff cures it's like steel. You WILL need a dremel or similar and a carbide bit to remove it.

 

With all the warnings you're probably asking why would I want to use this stuff. Because I assembled my entire armor in 6 hours. From beginning to end with the exception of a couple items. Every 45 minutes you're gluing something. Hence the reason for a boatload of magnets and clamps. If I'd had more clamps I could have easily assembled it in half the time.   

 

 

 

Important SAFETY information, PLEASE READ!!

So many chemicals that are used to assembly armor are toxic. Products like adhesives, fillers, paint, sanding byproducts, these are all toxic to your health and may cause cancer or organ damage over long periods of exposure. I can't stress enough how important it is when using these products to do so in a well ventilated area and/or wear a proper respirator. NOTE: When sanding a well ventilated area in NOT good enough, USE A RESPIRATOR suited for the job.

Edited October 26, 2015 by ukswrath

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Assembly:

 

NOTE: All factory identification labels were left on sections to simplify process.

 

Forearms

 

1) Prep for assembly.

 

Ensure all ares to be glued are clean and dry. 

 

NOTE: Left and Right forearms are identified as follows: Left is labeled 7B, Right is 8B.

The remainder of the components fit accordingly, ex 7C, 7D.

 

 

This is a quick assembly, it is best to mark the sections as not to get confused. 

 

ex.

 

 

 

2) Make inner cover strips for inner and outer forearm sides.

 

Measure target area length

 

Outer forearm 245mm.

 

 

 

Inner 250mm.

 

 

2) Cut cover strips to measured length using provided material.

 

NOTE: I cut my cover strips 25mm in width on both inner and outer sections.  

 

 

3) Notch inner cover cover strip to accommodate indent.

 

Use 1/2 the cover strip width for the notch.

 

 

 

Using a knife of dremel cut out sections. After notches are cut you may need to fine tune the overall strip length. 

 

 

 

NOTE: Since both left and right forearm sides are virtually the same it was easiest to duplicate the measurements, cut the cover strip then flip it for the other forearm.

 

 

 

Once inner cover strips are cut and trimmed it's time to install.

 

4. Glue inner cover strip to forearm sides. 

 

NOTE: As mentioned before it is best to have multiple sections ready to glue as not to waste time, glue and tips. Ex. I glued the forearm sides, calves, one side of the biceps, one side of the thighs and the thermal detonator interior on my first glue setting.

 

 

 

NOTE: Scrape away unwanted excess glue immediately, or leave it, whichever you prefer.

 

 

Glue cure time is 45 minutes.

 

Promptly afterwards remove clamps and magnets and start new section.

 

 

 

This was my first experience with excess glue. Unfortunately it was on the side that had to be mated to the forearm base. Dremel and carbide bit was the only thing that could get it off.

 

 

 

5) Glue sides to base.

 

 

 

Once dry (45 minutes) remove clamps and magnets.

 

Edited August 20, 2015 by ukswrath

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Forearms cont...

 

6) Glue plate to sides.

 

Before we get started there's a couple things to discuss. If you temporarily assemble the forearms it will become apparent, unless you have tiny hands there's no way you're going to get them through the end of the forearm section. Yea..... that's what I thought too WT...Heck!

 

After going back through and actually READING the tutorials provided by Michael Bender, thanks Mike , 1/3 of the lower plate (on the wrist side) is NOT glued. It's designed to flex allowing your hands to slide through the end. If you look at some Alpha or other builder's pics you may notice that section of the plate sticks out a bit (doesn't look secure). That's why.

 

After making a few test fits I discovered my hands were small enough to where I could get away with gluing one side of the plate as suggested and the other side I could glue from one end to the other. For me there's enough flexibility I can easily maneuver my hand in and out of the wrist side with no issues. I'll have to install my gloves afterwards, but that's what I do anyways.

 

Here's my suggestion. Test fit your forearms and glue accordingly. Option A - If you have difficulty fitting your hands through the wrist end, glue 2/3rds of the plate starting at the elbow side as suggested by others, leaving the lower 1/3 portion near the wrist unglued.

Option B - If your hands are smaller you may be able to glue them as I did. 

 

Another thing to discuss. To glue, or not to glue the tab on the inner forearm. This little guy here.

 

 

 

I decided since I'm going to run the glue all the way down one side, I chose the side with the tab because the other side will have less of a obstruction.

 

Moving on....

 

Apply glue to forearm sides and secure plate.

 

 

Option A

 

 

Option B

 

 

 

NOTE: Though not necessary I added additional glue on the inside as a filler between gaps.

 

 

 

After glue cure remove clamp, tape and magnets or whatever you used.

 

 

 

7) Assemble forearm box

 

Starting with your trimmed pieces, remove all burs and test fit.

 

 

 

After test fit glue base in place.

 

Place a bead of glue to insides of box, slide base inside, place on a table base down, slowly press down of box until flat. 

 

 

 

8) Install greeblie (provided in kit) into channel.

 

Apply glue and install greeblie with the single button closest to your elbow. 

 

 

 

9) Glue box to forearm plate.

 

NOTE: Align box end (wrist side) between raised section of plate and wrist edge.

 

 

Final before filler and greeblie install.

 

Edited August 20, 2015 by ukswrath

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Thanks Q

[Haribon72[TK]]

WHOA!!!   I'm so happy we're in the same garrison...i'm calling you for help!!!    That's a ton of trimming, sanding, and prepping.   

 

If i'm seeing this clearly, the best approach to starting the armor is to . . . 

 

1. Cut first with a dremel with a drill bit circular saw

2. Sand and shape with a belt sander

3. Use the special gun instead of e-6000

[ukswrath[Staff]]

EDIT:

 

1) Identify pieces and outline sections to trim

2) Everything else lol

 

 

You got it Walter, whatever you need brother. 

Edited August 20, 2015 by ukswrath

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

EDIT:

 

1) Identify pieces and outline sections to trim

This may be the hardest part of the build, prior to "bondo" work at least.

 

Granted, I don't know very much about the science behind shaping the forming bucks, but the appearance of three or four cut lines on every piece makes the cutting/trimming far more difficult than it is with a normal TK kit.

 

And I have to commend you as always, for some beautiful work here, Tony...   Very nice, clean looking work, and six hours you say?  You're setting the bar awfully high for those of us with shipping notifications.    

 

Truly inspirational though.  I now know it can be done.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

This may be the hardest part of the build, prior to "bondo" work at least.

 

Granted, I don't know very much about the science behind shaping the forming bucks, but the appearance of three or four cut lines on every piece makes the cutting/trimming far more difficult than it is with a normal TK kit.

 

And I have to commend you as always, for some beautiful work here, Tony...   Very nice, clean looking work, and six hours you say?  You're setting the bar awfully high for those of us with shipping notifications.  

 

Truly inspirational though.  I now know it can be done.

 

So true regarding trimming and trim lines. It wasn't by accident I took time off from the TFA to build a TK for a garrison mate. Though I was building something else I was watching TFA build threads intensely, learning, studying and hoping to avoid some of the obstacles they had to overcome. 

 

It's one thing to illustrate cut lines, it's another to see what it's supposed to look like after the trimming. Myself along with other builders are doing our best

to document each process to make it easier and less frustrating for the next gen. As each build is started, documented and completed the process is refined. Soon you'll be leading the next gen, and so on. Thanks for the Kudos brother. 

 

Six hours, if that. It's all about prep work (armor, game plan), proper tools and material.  Once the assembly started it was actually a joy to do. The glue I have to say made it as simple as installing cover strips on a TK, glue and clamp. Once I figured out how to streamline the gluing, coupled with 45 minute cure times, the process was like that of an assembly line. As mentioned, if I'd had more magnets I could have easily cut the time in half.

 

Tonight I'm hoping to have most of the assembly posted here.

 

BTW, I have yet to hear from any veterans. If any of you are reading this and see anything I've overlooked please chime in.  

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Out of curiosity, and for the sake of expanding the knowledge of the builder base , how many magnets were you using?  

 

Also, did you reinforce the shoulder yoke assembly interior at all?  If so, how?  Did you use fiberglass - I thought you'd mentioned it someplace else maybe.

 

And, where might one procure the Devcon products for use in their own builds?  Thanks.  I'm greatly looking forward to seeing the rest of your progress.

 

EDIT:  It occurs to me now that I'm reading this, that the answer to the second question is probably going to be addressed in your update later, so I'll wait and see that when the time comes.  LoL

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Out of curiosity, and for the sake of expanding the knowledge of the builder base , how many magnets were you using?  

 

Also, did you reinforce the shoulder yoke assembly interior at all?  If so, how?  Did you use fiberglass - I thought you'd mentioned it someplace else maybe.

 

And, where might one procure the Devcon products for use in their own builds?  Thanks.  I'm greatly looking forward to seeing the rest of your progress.

 

EDIT:  It occurs to me now that I'm reading this, that the answer to the second question is probably going to be addressed in your update later, so I'll wait and see that when the time comes.  LoL

 

great questions Tim.

 

1) 40

2) Yes, I will try to illustrate that tonight

3) I will update my tool and materials list tonight

 

EDIT: Yes 

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

 Excellent.

 

Note to self:  Order more magnets.

[ukswrath[Staff]]

 Excellent.

 

Note to self:  Order more magnets.

 

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Assembly cont...

 

Thermal Detonator

 

I highly recommend assembling the components with magnets first to ensure everything will line up. 

 

The next few pictures will give you a idea of what it will look like assembled but not glued.

 

 

 

The sections.

 

Tube bottom

 

 

Tube top

 

 

Cap right (short).

 

 

 

Cap left (long)

 

 

Back plate

 

 

Mount

 

 

 

 

1) Start by trimming the end caps to the following specs.

 

Right side cap (short) 15mm.

 

 

 

Left side end cap (large) 38mm.

 

 

 

 

2) Assemble the bottom and top tube sections, using magnets to hold together. From the inside slide the left and right side caps. 

 

NOTE: The left side cap will extend outside of the tube section. The right side will reside inside the tube section.

 

 

 

Apply small amounts of CA glue on seems throughout the inside of the tube section. This is a temporary hold for additional test fitting to come. 

 

 

 

Test fit on back plate.

 

 

 

 

Once satisfied with the test fit, apply Devcon glue along the inside of tube and caps seams. Wearing gloves evenly spread out the glue.

 

 

 

Let dry.

 

Prepare to glue tube to back plate.

 

 

 

Apply Devcon to tube mount.

 

 

 

Assemble to back plate. Clamp both sections together or place semi heavy object on top of tube assembly.

 

 

 

 

Let dry 45 minutes.

 

Remove clamp

 

 

 

Install mount.

 

After trimming, one side of the mount will be longer and tapered compared to the other side. The tapered side will be glued to the back plate.

 

 

Clamp together.

 

 

Let dry.

 

Remove clamps

 

 

 

Finished, prior to applying filler.

 

Edited September 1, 2015 by ukswrath

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Assembly cont....

 

Shoulder and back (Yoke)

 

As you will notice in this first section here I used E6000 prior to knowing that wasn't a good idea because it flexes too much. The good news is I used a boat load, let it set for a full month and everything else around it was glued with Devcon. 

 

BTW, this is the first section of armor I assembled. Besides the belt boxes nothing else on the armor will be assembled with E6000.

 

Connecting place to front plate.

 

 

 

Apply Devcon glue to connecting plate as seen here and attache back plate.

 

 

 

As mentioned in other build threads there is a weakness in the shoulders that causes the armor to crack at the location where the connecting plate meets the front plate.

 

My solution was to take a piece of scrap and create a brace between the two to give the area some support. My hope is I didn't transfer the stress to a weaker section.

 

Here's the support. Glued with Devcon and lathered the area a bit to give additional support.

 

NOTE: the scrap was from the shoulder.

 

NOTE 12//1/15: Procedure updated. Due to the shoulder bell support update, illustrated later in this build, I suggest skipping this crack update. The shoulder bell update utilizes a larger bracket that will greatly support the area mentioned here eliminating the need for this smaller one. If you DO NOT plan on performing the bell support update then continue on. 

 

 

 

Test fit

 

 

 

Apply Devcon glue to the following areas and install braces. 

 

 

 

Let dry.

 

Finished, before filler

 

Edited December 15, 2015 by ukswrath

[camprandall]

Looking great Tony! I'm proud (and a bit envious) of all of you guys doing a really thorough job and documenting it so well. Great work!

[ukswrath[Staff]]

Looking great Tony! I'm proud (and a bit envious) of all of you guys doing a really thorough job and documenting it so well. Great work!

 

Well we wouldn't be here if it wasn't for your lead. 

 

Thank you 

Edited August 21, 2015 by ukswrath