ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 17, 2015 Author Report Posted September 17, 2015 (edited) Gaskets In this section I'll be assembling the internal gaskets. NOTE: Assembly compounds and what to use. The original kit calls for a two part glue (provided). After experimenting with it and CA glue I decided to go with the CA for a couple reason. 1st, I've seen where the seems have came apart for unknown reasons using the factory glue. My thoughts are either the material wasn't prepared (cleaned) well enough or the glue mix process is not fool proof. 2nd, is time. Given the setup times with the factory glue (hours) and the CA (minutes) CA seemed like a more logical choice. I've used CA on many rubber types of compounds and it's worked flawless for me almost every time. I encourage you to MAKE YOUR OWN DECISION. Trial both glues on scrap material and determine for yourself what course to take. If you elect to use the provided two part epoxy please follow the manufacturers instruction in regards to application and precautions. Regardless of which glue you choose to use please wear you PPE, listed below. Gasket to armor connections: Velcro or snaps. I've seen people use either or. I'll be using Velcro Gasket to Body Harness connection: This will be discussed in detail in the Body Harness section later on. The assembly itself will not change depending on which glue you decide to go with. Tools: Scissors Exacto knife Old shirt or towel Stick of wood Sewing machine or needle and thread (black, canvas strength) Dish soap Denatured Alcohol (to remove any oil remaining after the initial washing) Material: ANOVOS two part glue, or CA glue Velcro (hook side) NOTE: You can either use Velcro or snaps. (if using snaps I'd suggest using the female on the rubber side and male on the armor side) PPE: Latex gloves Safety glasses NOTE: In the "1. Identify components" After picture, beneath each shoulder gasket is a longer, single piece of connecting material . I'm assuming it can be, or is supposed to be used to cover the two smaller connection materials giving the area added strength. I couldn't find a reason to use them and so decided to keep them around as extra material in the event something should need repair. On with it then, first order of business.... 1. Identify components. Before trimming. Gaaaaaaa! more trimming, lol After. Components are labeled by: Body location Assembly Material Assembly Locations Connection (armor attachment) locations Bath time... 2. Wash material Wash with soap and warm water, especially on the back near the edges to be connected. Regarding the connection material, clean both sides yet concentrating on the shiny surface. 3. Installing velcro (hook side) Cut the velcro in the following sizes: Average width is 25mm, length is 55mm. Shoulders - 2 per shoulder (4 pieces total) Elbows & Knees - 4 per section (8 pieces total) Using a sewing machine or other sew velcro to gasket tabs After... To be cont... Edited October 26, 2015 by ukswrath 2 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) Gaskets cont... 4. Gluing joints (assembly locations) Starting with the shoulders. Place shoulder gasket ribbed side down, connecting material shiny side up. Using the Denatured Alcohol clean entire connection material surface and the gasket material approximately 1" from the edge inward. Notice the dull finish. Place the two small connecting material sections shiny side up with the indented square overlapping each other as such. Ensure the placement is correct in relationship with the shoulder gasket (ribs facing upward) Apply glue in the following green areas. NOTE: DO NOT apply glue in the square area between the two connecting materials, only on the top section. Place shoulder gasket over connecting material. Place you hand or a piece of wood over the area for about 20 seconds. Allow for the glue to penetrate both the connecting material and gasket material. Let it cure naturally or apply Zip Kicker Flip gasket over, ribbed face down. Fold the right side over the back. Apply glue to the following areas. Fold left side over onto the connecting material with the freshly applied glue. Wait a few seconds and/or apply Zip Kicker If you still have a gap between the ribs reapply glues to the ribs then fold forcing the ribs together. After glue dries your should be left with this. Now turn the gasket inside out like this. Grab the free Arm pit section with your left hand and twist to the left. The goal here is to ensure the connection materials will align when finished. Note: The box shaped ends should twist free on top of one another. If any glue made it between and fused the two you will need to separate them before proceeding. Continue to twist until the connecting material are aligned with the points facing each other. Check alignment. OK? move on. Now fold the material with the newly glued connecting material towards you. Apply glue in the following areas. Note: Ensure there is no glue on the connecting material boxes. Gluing of the two will be done last. Fold the remaining gasket onto the newly glued connecting material. Once glue has dried recheck the alignment of the seam. If all is good, add glue to the remaining connecting material corners (square areas) Once dry fold the gasket ribbed side out. Inspect material seam alignment. Test fit. Finished with the Shoulders. Knees & Elbows are much easier and basically the same assembly process. Apply glue to 1/2 of connecting material. Align and place gasket material (ribbed side up) over the glue. Being this is a longer seem it is best to use a block of wood or something similar to evenly distribute the applied pressure. Once dry flip gasket ribbed down. Fold over newly glued section (in this case the right side). Apply glue to connecting material then fold unglued (left) section onto it. NOTE: It's a good idea to place a towel underneath the sections to be glued to prevent unwanted bonding of other areas. Check the seem If any ribbed seems are not completely bonded, apply more glue to those areas and simply fold the ribs onto themselves. That's it! Remove any remaining connecting material protruding from the edges. Finished Edited September 18, 2015 by ukswrath 5 Quote
Haribon72[TK] Posted September 18, 2015 Report Posted September 18, 2015 Wow. We're definitely going to have a team build at my place. And you will be the teacher!!!! Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Posted September 18, 2015 Wow. We're definitely going to have a team build at my place. And you will be the teacher!!!! Heck someone needs to put out an instructional video for this thing Wish I had a build team 1 Quote
zuko[TK] Posted September 18, 2015 Report Posted September 18, 2015 Awesome gasket section above. I will soon make my own choice on which glue etc My question :any feedback on going w CA glue for this one, (gaskets) so far? Any cracking sounds w movement and or splitting? Touch ups? Thanks in advance Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 18, 2015 Author Report Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) I haven't trooped in it yet so I can't give you a real world experience review. I've used CA glue with other plastic, elastics and rubber materials without any issues hence the reason I went that route. I believe there are others that have also used CA. I would encourage you to ask around from those that are completed and have trooped in their armor to what they're using and how it's working for them. Thanks for the compliments Edited September 18, 2015 by ukswrath 1 Quote
Ollie mills tk[TK] Posted September 19, 2015 Report Posted September 19, 2015 Jesus Tony you are one busy guy!! This is an incredible build thread......<br> Your sir are a legend!!! Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 19, 2015 Author Report Posted September 19, 2015 Yea you can say that lol thanks beother. 1 Quote
Bryanmc[501st] Posted September 19, 2015 Report Posted September 19, 2015 This is the greatest thread at FISD. Thank you so much for the detail! Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 19, 2015 Author Report Posted September 19, 2015 Hey thanks for the kudos Bryan Quote
Bryanmc[501st] Posted September 19, 2015 Report Posted September 19, 2015 Trimming cont..... BTW this is going to be heavy pics... FYI. Before I get started I'd like to add a new tool to my arsenal, the belt sander. Used it in my last TK build and immediately switched over to this bad boy for 90% of the trimming. Loving it. Sorry if this isn't a tool we should be promoting but it's a sanity saver. What grit sandpaper are you using on your belt sander for your armor? I picked this one up based on your recommendation (along with about everything else on your list). Thanks! Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 19, 2015 Author Report Posted September 19, 2015 Excellent! I believe it comes installed with 80 grit, which worked fine for what I used it for. Quote
SolderMaster Posted September 21, 2015 Report Posted September 21, 2015 That's about right. 80 on the belt, 150 on the disk. It's a handy thing to have. Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Posted September 21, 2015 That's about right. 80 on the belt, 150 on the disk. It's a handy thing to have. For this Armor, very handy indeed. Quote
Haribon72[TK] Posted September 23, 2015 Report Posted September 23, 2015 All, We are reading the TFA TK build bible. 3 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Posted September 23, 2015 hahaha Wait till you see the chest accuracy update I did tonight, holy smokes. INSANE!! 1 Quote
SolderMaster Posted September 24, 2015 Report Posted September 24, 2015 ^^^^^^^^<br> What he said. 1 Quote
russellr2d2[TK] Posted September 24, 2015 Report Posted September 24, 2015 Cripies ! What a build. I went through this whole thread and all i can say is "glad your doing it and not me!" This will be exciting to see complete. Much luck ! I know you will have another gem to climb into. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 24, 2015 Author Report Posted September 24, 2015 Cripies ! What a build. I went through this whole thread and all i can say is "glad your doing it and not me!" This will be exciting to see complete. Much luck ! I know you will have another gem to climb into. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Hey Russell how ya doing my friend? Common you know you want to joint this build group haha Quote
russellr2d2[TK] Posted September 24, 2015 Report Posted September 24, 2015 Still thinking of a Rebel Fleet Trooper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 24, 2015 Author Report Posted September 24, 2015 Still thinking of a Rebel Fleet Trooper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Well let's get to it. Another russellr2d2 build thread, looking forward to it.... WAIT! WHAT? Wrong forum buddy Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 25, 2015 Author Report Posted September 25, 2015 (edited) Getting off track just a bit, here's a teaser of accuracy updates so far. Chest plate I'll detail the process and progress this weekend. Edited September 25, 2015 by ukswrath 3 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 25, 2015 Author Report Posted September 25, 2015 (edited) Helmet Electronics in progress. This has nothing to do with the build obviously I just needed break free from all the cutting and sanding and gluing and.... lol Edited September 25, 2015 by ukswrath Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 28, 2015 Author Report Posted September 28, 2015 Accuracy updates: The accuracy updates are not mandatory and not needed for 501st approval. It's simply to make the armor more screen accurate. Feel free to skip ahead past the accuracy update sections or follow along. Warning: To perform these updates you'll have to cut sections of your armor, grind, file, sand, modify and reassemble. These modifications are not easy to perform but can be done. Chest Accuracy Update Chest before... We will start by cutting out the the return edges from the following areas. The return edge material in question is approximately 3mm in width. Chest left. Red line indicate where the cut will be made. You may also notice a double edge indicated in green, this will need to be sanded out. Right... Mark the area to be cut After cuts.. Remove remaining return edge using a belt sander or other. After trimming return edge. Check section edge alignment. Making a template for the inner cover strip joining material. I started by outlining the center, left and right sections. Template measurements: 3mm gap between center chest and outer sections 8mm extra for mounting Left template finished Section indicated here can either b cut out or bent to accommodate for greeblie buckle indention Test template Cut connecting material from cover strip material or similar. Mark areas to bend or remove After bending Test fit before gluing Apply glue between connecting material and chest section. I used CA glue with zip kicker As mentioned before the left chest has a double indent near the crease, it will need to be sanded out. Prepare to glue left side. Mark connecting material 3mm from chest section. Apply glue For some stupid reason I forgot to take pics gluing the outer sides. At this point make the template and create the connection strip for the right side. Right side.. Glue into place.. After gluing the sections together. Check the contour of the chest. NOTE: If adjustments are needed simply cut out a template from heavy cardboard. Using heat gun concentrate the heat on a small section of connecting strip. bend as needed. 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted September 28, 2015 Author Report Posted September 28, 2015 (edited) Chest Accuracy Update cont... Pill boxes and center chest The pill boxes are hallow with unique black fabric material and gaffers tape behind them. The center chest replacement upgrade from ANOVOS is acceptable the way it is however, in my opinion it's less than stellar design leaves a lot to be desired and little room to install the screen accurate vinyl decal that's supposed to be used. That said, I've elected to sand it down from the inside until enough material is removed leaving it hallow. By doing this the inside lines will look cleaner and sharper. Afterwards I'll place black vinyl behind it. This process is just preference and not a CRL requirement, the vinyl decal inside the recessed area is. Before... Sanding. I used a hand held Black & Decker Mouse with 80 grit. Took a whole 15-20 minutes. Be careful not to sand too far, only to the point the material wears through. After... Sand and cut out pill boxes. NOTE: There are exact specifications as to what the pill sizes are to be. If someone is at liberty to say what they are please post it here Simply put I started sanding from the inside until almost flush with the existing armor. From them there dremel out the remainder. After... More to come... Edited October 29, 2019 by ukswrath 3 Quote
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