ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Posted October 7, 2015 Accuracy update cont... Disclaimer - These accuracy modifications are not mandatory Biceps Another challenging area to update Starting with the pill boxes, mark and prepare to cut out recessed area like that of the chest and ankle. Now for the seam and ribbed locations. Locate and mark. Cut area indicated in green. Scribe and cut long seam Using a dremel or other remove section in red Using a belt sander and dremel or other remove return edges V notch (return edge removed). Note: Once I have an official name for this area I'll change the wording. Seem trimmed Using a file sharpen V notch giving the edges a sharp look. Check overall edge alignment Creating inner cover strip. This by far is the most challenging part. The entire seem needs to be covered, this includes the V notch location, greeblie buckle indent and return edges. I started by measuring the area the inner strip would need to cover and ensure there was enough room to glue. These are rough measurements. Once I have the final cover strip I revise the info here. Width Length Using left over cover strip material, measure and cut a section for each arm. Making some checks Locate the buckle indent. Measure the bend angles and mark the cover strip where the bends will need to be made. Establishing the areas to bend This is where it get tricky NOTE: Use heat resistant gloves. Using a heat gun, wood and heavy duty cardboard, concentrate heat to the bend area and shape them to the bicep. Note: This is my first attempt Not too pretty I must say Test fit To be continued... 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Posted October 7, 2015 (edited) Accuracy update cont.... Belt and center boxes By now some may be aware the two center belt boxes are 2/3 rubber and the rubber of the belt boxes is shaped in the the contour of the belt. Also the belt itself has a 1/4" thick strip of neoprene rubber between the floor mat material and the nylon belt. In this section I will be creating the rubber mount for those boxes and illustrate the 1/4" neoprene strip though the belt assembly as a whole will be discussed in a later post. This is for the accuracy update only. Starting with the rubber material purchased through Amazon. It's 1" thick x 6" x 6" Sorbothane isolating padding. Pliable and strong. The boxes. Already assembled they now needed to be split at the joining seems. Once split, starting with right side box (non ribbed), measure the interior dimensions. Mark and cut rubber section. Using belt sander or other shape to fit box cap correctly, rough up glossy edges and trim corners as needed. Test fit Measure the left box. Measure and cut rubber Measure and cut indent in rubber to match indent on box cap Test fit Ready to drill holes for Chicago mount screws To be continued... Edited October 7, 2015 by ukswrath 3 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 9, 2015 Author Report Posted October 9, 2015 (edited) Accuracy updates cont... Ab box edging I've seen some pretty awesome corners on reconfigured boxes coming from recent builders. I'm a bit sketched out on how thin my plastic was in the corners so my edges may not be as defined as some but I'm satified with them. Sand all corners of boxes to give them a sharper look. I used my Black & Decker mouse sander with 220 grit. before.. after... To be continued... Edited October 9, 2015 by ukswrath 3 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Posted October 15, 2015 (edited) Accuracy update cont... Bicep one updates complete. Well after a week or so of being sick I back at it. So I left off test fitting the inner cover strip. Now let's glue that sucka down. I started with the side with the notch so I know I'll have a nice flat side to glue my notch steps. Install cover strip and clamp Once dry measure a 2-3mm gap width at the cover strip as the distance between halves. Glue the other side Sand down the cover strip surface to allow for good bonding of the notch steps as well as prep for primer later. Using .75mm yard sale sign material cut out the lower (base) step. From what I've seen in canon pics this is how I believe it's done, who am I kidding, I'm sure it's 3d printed. NOTE: There are exact measurements for this that are not being disclosed but I will tell you this, take the overall depth of the notch and divide it into 3rds, cut and glue the steps in place as follows. This will be close enough to accuracy trust me. We're talking milometers here. Check fit Cut out step 2 and check fit. Finally the 3rd layer, and of course I forgot to take a pic, splendid. So let's assemble these sections. Start by sanding each section, top and bottom. Apply glue to the cover strip, lower level. Install lower (base) level Install 2nd (middle) level ... and finally the 3rd (upper) level Finished! Before... (though the opposite forearm) After.. Finalize with a bit of level sanding and we're good to go. Edited October 15, 2015 by ukswrath 1 Quote
The5thHorseman[501st] Posted October 15, 2015 Report Posted October 15, 2015 The problem I see is that you final detail is leveled with the indent when all the steps should be sitting inside it: Definitely better than before though. Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 15, 2015 Author Report Posted October 15, 2015 Yea well I estimate the screen armor is around 6mm thick judging by some of the pictures I've seen. Since ANOVOS armor is 1/3rd that if not less it doesn't leave us with many options. .75mm was the thinnest plastic I could find and still be able to define the layers. As you said, definitely better than before. 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Posted October 25, 2015 Alright, time for a massive photo update. Sorry for the delay, new AWESOME!! job duties tied me up a bit. Ab reinforcement 2 (ANOVIS really!?) So during a little paint prep work, which I'll get into a bit later I notice a small crack developing just outside one of the reinforced areas I spoke about earlier on during the reinforcement section. Long story short I decided to reinforce a 6" section on each side of the ad to give it even more support. I'm not going to go into huge detail explaining the steps however, I'll illustrate it with pics. I'm sure you can figure out the jest of it. Crack... Resolution Heat up the cover strip and form it to the ab BEFORE GLUING!! Apply and little Devcon welder glue, install and clamp (full cure time 45 minutes) Finished.... again. Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Posted October 25, 2015 Accuracy updates cont..... well sorta Ab boxes After sanding edging I preceeded to start the box mounting process by drilling 1/4" holes in the ab plate box sections. Afterwards In installed the 1/4" by 1-1/2" nylon bolt I'll be using to secure the ab boxes to the ab itself. Apply a bit of Devcon Plastic Welder on the head of each bolt. NOTE: To be clear, in a earlier post I used E6000 to apply adhere the bolts to the boxes. That was temporary, They are now being held on by the Devcon Plastic welder. Positioned the bolt on the hole. Installed the box and apply clamp. Ensure the bolt is firmly pressed against the box and aligned correctly. Once dry remove either install the nylon nut to secure or as I've done I removed the them for installation at a later date, after painting. Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Posted October 25, 2015 Accuracy update cont.... Belt boxes cont.. After making the screen accurate rubber mounts for the center belt boxes and looking at some screen shots I realized both boxes are supposed to be the same thickness, mine were not. The box without the rib was 4mm shorter. This is how it's designed by ANOVOS, nice! The screen accurate boxes are equal in height in the screen shots, the box with the rib appeared to be most accurate, the box without was not. To resolve the issue I had to re-glue the base to the box, the box without the rib to be clear. Once dry measure and hacksaw the un-needed section off. First I measured the width of the Ribbed box which was around 12mm. BTW this is the edge of the original trim line so I'm assuming it's accurate, or as accurate we're going to get without actual specs.. Re-glue the box base, measure and hack off the section I didn't need. After a bit of sanding it's now the same height as it's brother. 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Posted October 25, 2015 Paint Preparation So this week I prepped the armor for painting. My armor will be painted by a professional painter friend of mine. As mentioned in a earlier post I'm also painting all the greeblies separate from the armor to give the armor a overall cleaner look. This is the reason you haven't seen me glue them on yet. That'll be done after the panting work is completed. First order of business, using E6000 glue screws to the back of the greeblies, belt boxes, knee caps and hand plates (the screws will be remove later of course) This is done so the items can be place on a foam board for painting. Important SAFETY information reminder, PLEASE READ!! So many chemicals we use to assembly armor are toxic. Products like adhesives, fillers, paint, sanding byproducts, these are all toxic to your health and may cause cancer or organ damage over long periods of exposure. I can't stress enough how important it is when using these products to do so in a well ventilated area and/or wear a proper respirator. NOTE: When sanding a well ventilated area in NOT good enough, USE A RESPIRATOR suited for the job. Thanks for reminding me of this Byranmc Once the glue has dried using scotch brite pads and/or wet & dry 400 grit sand paper remove the gloss from the plastic. Once done place these items on the foam boards. 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Posted October 25, 2015 Paint Preparation cont... Building up yoke with Devcon plastic welder and applying filler Instead of using bondo or similar to fill in joints and areas that needed to be built up I elected to use the Devcon Plastic welder being it's strong and pliable enough to be used as a filler. Fortunately for me the only section that required this approach was the yoke. Everything else will receive spot filler. Regarding how to apply the spot filler. Either add filler to a spreader or apply directly on area to be filled. Using the spreader evenly spread out the filler. There's several Youtube videos that demonstrate how to apply fillers Devcon Plastic Welder Spreader Here's how it looks after the plastic welder and spot filler putty is applied. Once dry sand until you've achieved a smooth surface. How it looks after sanding. Ready for primer. Now for everything else apply spot filler. Let dry overnight. To be cont.... 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Posted October 25, 2015 Paint Preparation cont... Sanding & shaping filler. Sanding plastic gloss off First off sand away filler leaving only the valleys and divots. Using 400 grit wet & dry sand paper and a bucket of water I removed the filler as needed. 400 grit is the recommended choice of pre painting by most automotive finishers. When I needed to get in tight areas like the shin boxes i used a piece of cover strip mater and sand paper. Once the filler has been sanded away continue sanding off the ABS plastic shine. Primer and or paint will have a difficult time sticking to it if you don't. Here's some before and after pics. Bell before after Cod before after All components after sanding. Ready for primer. To be cont... Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 25, 2015 Author Report Posted October 25, 2015 Paint Preparation cont... Final preparation In this section I'll be taping off areas where either greeblies will be glued to later or to protect buckles from the paint. NOTE: If you choose to add the greeblies later as I've done tape off the greeblie areas so that they don't receive paint. These areas will be hidden by the greeblies. Starting with the spats At this point you can choose follow ANOVOS's or anyone else's instructions regarding applying spray can paint or have it professionally painted. UP NEXT! More belt accuracy updates, internal strapping and other connections. 2 Quote
Bryanmc[501st] Posted October 26, 2015 Report Posted October 26, 2015 Great updates! May I ask a few questions? 1. What did you use to cut out the pill boxes? I'm afraid my Exacto knife skills aren't up to that challenge. 2. I'm still hunting to find PPG DFL1 for filler but my searching has found some alerts about its toxicity. Are you taking any safety steps when using it or is it not as big a deal as I'm reading? Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted October 26, 2015 Author Report Posted October 26, 2015 Great updates! May I ask a few questions? 1. What did you use to cut out the pill boxes? I'm afraid my Exacto knife skills aren't up to that challenge. 2. I'm still hunting to find PPG DFL1 for filler but my searching has found some alerts about its toxicity. Are you taking any safety steps when using it or is it not as big a deal as I'm reading? 1. Dremel with carbide cutter as seen here on Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004UDJK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01 1a. First drill a hole then use the dremel and carbide bit to do the final trimming. BTW thanks for the reminder to add this to my list of tools. 2. PPG is one of many fillers that can be used. I would encourage you to contact a auto body parts supply in your area and ask if they carry the PPG if not what they recommend that is similar. As for toxicity, so many adhesives we use to assembly armor are toxic. I can't stress enough how important it is when using these products to do so in a well ventilated area or wear a respirator. Also when sanding, USE A RESPIRATOR people! Thanks for mentioning this Bryan, very important safety topics. 1 Quote
Haribon72[TK] Posted November 5, 2015 Report Posted November 5, 2015 Okay Tony.... what respirator are you using?????????? yes, i'm on amazon.com right now breaking my wallet thanks to you! =) Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Posted November 5, 2015 Glue - Strong fan in my garage Dust - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FTEDMM?keywords=3m%20respirator&qid=1446692001&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3 3 Quote
TK-Sonic[TK] Posted November 5, 2015 Report Posted November 5, 2015 Nice work so far, will you be showing the attachment of the clip greeblies. What size goes where, etc? Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Posted November 5, 2015 Nice work so far, will you be showing the attachment of the clip greeblies. What size goes where, etc? Hey Rob thank you and yes, when everything is back from the paint shop. As illustrated above greeblies and the like will be installed last. Quote
sandtrooper[501st] Posted November 5, 2015 Report Posted November 5, 2015 Hail to the master! 1 Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Posted November 5, 2015 Hail to the master! lol Pat you're too funny, the only thing I master is getting into trouble with my TFA spending 1 Quote
JoblessPunk[TK] Posted November 5, 2015 Report Posted November 5, 2015 lol Pat you're too funny, the only thing I master is getting into trouble with my TFA spending lol, first rule of building armor is not to look at the running total Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted November 5, 2015 Author Report Posted November 5, 2015 lol, first rule of building armor is not to look at the running total I don't, it's the debit of my account that gets me in trouble lol 1 Quote
Sly11[Admin] Posted November 7, 2015 Report Posted November 7, 2015 I now know why your build is taking so long. You spend most of your time taking photos Awesome build thread, and great details Tony, I just need t win the lotto, and maybe I will get me one of these. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted November 7, 2015 Author Report Posted November 7, 2015 I now know why your build is taking so long. You spend most of your time taking photos Awesome build thread, and great details Tony, I just need t win the lotto, and maybe I will get me one of these. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk You're probably right, I swear it almost takes as much time to document the build as the build itself. Quote
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