New DoopyDoos E11 with T-Jays finishing kit

[charlesnarles]

Cool, good find. I just got a fresh doopy counter so this inspires me to cut it all up 😄

[T-Jay[TK]]

Good progress, Mike - and a very nice front sight pin! Would have loved to see some "making of" pictures.

 

For the front sight guard, please make sure to NOT run this pattern all over the full part. It starts at different height on both sides. Btw: what have you used to make this pattern? Looks really good.

 

Nice counter at a very cheap price. This will surely do the job. Don't forget to add black paint in the "hollowed bed" for the numbers, before gluing that window. Really curious how this will look in the end...

[Twnbrother]

Thanks T-Jay.  The texture was created by rolling a metal punch over the green stuff.  The punch came in a set of Black and Decker tool bits.  Its the first time I have used that punch and I've had it for over 15 years.  

 

 

I looked at the front site guard (Derrek's new mold) and saw exactly where the texture ends... so I sanded mine to match.     

 

I need to make a site pin for my brothers build. When I do I will post how I did it on this thread.

 

On my numbers I forgot to mention how I keep them straight. I cut the plastic inner rod to length and added a simple piece of packing tape on the back side of the numbers.   You cant beat the price for that counter... just hope it looks good in the end.

Edited June 24, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Mark2575]

Your build is looking great! I plan on using most of your ideas when I start building mine this weekend. I expect it to take a month or more to complete.

[Twnbrother]

I did a little more work on the counter last night with the goal of having a reset button that actually pushed. I built the push button from extra plastic from the D94-S counter housing. I chiseled a spot for the push button inside the Hengslter resin counter and drilled a hole for a spring.

 

 

 

I trimmed out a divider between the spring and the numbers.

 

 

I cut the opening for the push button with the Dremel diamond tip cutter. The plexiglass melted so it was slow going... cut a little, clean the bit, start again. I then trimmed the edges. Final trimming will be done after everything is glued together.

 

The button works!!!!

 

Edited June 25, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Twnbrother]

T-Jay when I got home I went ahead and made another front site post.  I did this with my Dremel and the metal grinding bit.

 

 

You start out by trimming the screw threads off one side making it flat.  Repeat for the other side.

 

 

Once both sides are flat just trim off flat the remaining screw threads.   Then you will need to check how thin your blade is.... grind the sides equally until your desired thickness.  Lastly I put the angle on the blade.

 

 

Before you cut this off the rod check against your DD front site to make sure you have the right height to the blade.... its easy to trim more screw threads off if needed.   Once your satisfied, cut the rod with enough threads remaining to screw into your front site post housing.

 

[Twnbrother]

Tonight I decided to work a little more on the folding stock by removing the excess resin where the butt plate folds.  This took alot longer than I expected.  I first drilled holes as a guide.

 

 

Next I took my dremel and slowly burred out the hole.  I took the smallest bit I had and set the dremel on the lowest setting because the space here is pretty small.

 

 

Lastly I used some small woodworking tools that I got on Amazon for $6.37. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M3ZH1D4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00  

 

 

With a little sanding and fine detailing this should be good to go.  

Edited June 26, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Twnbrother]

I trimmed out the piece on the end of the butt cap that houses the D-Ring.  I then wrapped some electrical tape around the portion of the D-Ring that will be hidden.  This is the D-Ring from T-Jays awesome E11 finishing kit.  http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-kits-like-doopydoo%E2%80%99s-full-resin-kit-incl-worldwide-shipping-and-paypal/.  Hopefully the electrical tape will keep down on "clanking noise".

 

Edited June 26, 2015 by Twnbrother

[T-Jay[TK]]

Mike, thanks for showing how exactly you made that front sight pin. Really like this way to do it. Very authentic.

[Twnbrother]

I painted the silver undercoat on the face of the Hengslter counter.    Feels good to paint something .   I first scuffed up the plexiglass with 220 grit sandpaper and then hit it with a plastic primer.  The silver paint is "Rust-oleum Universal Metallic paint and primer in one" its for any surface to include plastic.  The color you see is Dark Steel.  I thought silver was too shiny.  The rounded counter window has been taped off with Tamiya tape.

 

Edited June 27, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Twnbrother]

I wanted to make the selector switch move and I think I figured out how.  When I was making the front site post I got the idea.  I did the basic same thing but this time the post was rounded.

 

 

I layed the post on the selector switch to make sure I had it long enough.  I then drill a tightly matching hole on the selector switch.

 

 

I then drilled a slightly smaller diameter hole for the screw end of the post that I made.  I screwed the post in the hole until flush.  Once the selector switch is glued onto the post the switch can move.

 

 

 

 

Edited June 26, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Twnbrother]

Tonight I continued on with the pistol grip and trigger assemble.  My trigger and trigger guard needed lots of sanding due to excess trim molding.  Afterwards I laid out the parts and pieces I needed for the build.

 

 

I began by drilling a hole through the pistol grip assemble and trigger for the nail that will allow the trigger to work.  I counter sunk and trimmed the nail. When assembled I can cover the divot with green stuff.

 

 

 Next I marked off the angle for the spring that will make the trigger work. I drilled slowly and measured the depth to ensure I did not go all the way through the pistol grip.

 

 

 

The trigger works...   I also drilled holes under the trigger assembly and the the front part where the trigger guard connect for two screws to assist with mounting.  I also drilled out the spot for the FREE LOCK screw.

 

 

 

Lastly I drilled out the bottom M5 hex screw.  All the extra parts in this trigger build are from T-Jays E11 finishing kit.  If you building a DD you gotta get that kit.

 

 

Edited June 27, 2015 by Twnbrother

[T-Jay[TK]]

All looking good so far. Interesting way to make the selector switch moveable

[Twnbrother]

Thanks Tino.  I'm hoping the selector switch works well when its finally assembled.

[Twnbrother]

Last night I went to work on the scope.  Lesson learned... If you do not have forstner bits I would not advise cutting the inner portion of the scope tube.    I quickly realized my mistake and found my forstner bits.  I drilled consecutively smaller diameter holes until I reached the desired depth.  Make sure you measure how deep to go and the diameter of the scope changes.

 

 

I got my lenses from a cheap monocular off Amazon.   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GIG9COU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00  The small lense is easy to remove (two inside).  The larger lense was a little more difficult.  Once you cut it out make sure you save the metal ring for the large lense.   I used zap a gap to glue the metal ring to the lense.

 

 

Next I drilled out the front lense port and then the screw heads.

 

 

Edited June 28, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Twnbrother]

I wanted to incorporate a sight reticle on the inside of the scope.  So I used Pablo's tutorial http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/2725-howto-create-a-scope-visual-effect-pablos-way/.  I made a quick reticle on a small disk for proof of concept.  I placed the reticle at the end of a ruler and the large scope lense on the ruler.  I adjusted the distance until the sight reticle came into focus.  This is the distance that you want to create a lip with the forstner bit inside the scope tube.  Once I find a transparency that I can draw or print on I will redo the sight reticle.

 

 

Edited June 28, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Twnbrother]

My brother just bought the same counter numbers I did on amazon.  His counter face was clear but still had the correct color numbers and the beveled glass.  The length of the glass was the same, but the width was about and 1/8" smaller.  He will fill the space with green stuff and trim to appear correct.  Pictures of his counter are below.

 

 

Edited June 28, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Thrawn's guard]

Michael you have some great ideas here and I look forward to seeing how it all comes together.

[StriderX[501st]]

I'm receiving my DD Kit this week. Great job so far!

[Twnbrother]

Constantin good luck with you build.  The DD Kits are super addictive.  You should check out Tino's finishing kit http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-kits-like-doopydoo%E2%80%99s-full-resin-kit-incl-worldwide-shipping-and-paypal/ and tutorial http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26673-full-resin-e-11-from-doopydoos-with-some-modifications/.  

[Kredal[TK]]

I got my DD kit today, and already had T-Jays finishing kit and Gazmosis(?)'s replacement magazine.  I'm planning on copying this build as close as my meager skills will allow.  I'll start a build thread on it when I start!  (I'm concentrating on getting my armor made first, so I can at least get into the 501st at the basic level!)

[Twnbrother]

I have a question for anyone with a real M38 scope. What is the color inside past the lens? Is it brass, flat black, gloss black..... Thanks

[Twnbrother]

I have been continuing my work on the scope and I have made some changes.  i started out by hollowing out the entire scope....  it was a little tedious, but hopefully worth the effort.  I did this to allow light to show through.

 

[Twnbrother]

I was able to come up with a way to retain the inner lense.  I used the rubber eye piece that comes with the monocular by trimming out the center leaving a ringed gasket.  This rubber ring has a recess portion that was originally used to attach it to the monocular. 

 

Edited June 30, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Twnbrother]

 

While at lunch today I walked into the PX looking for a flashlight for my wife.  There on the shelf was this flashlight and it came with three colored lenses.

 

 

I scanned the package with my Amazon app and it came up with this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DERCXM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

These colored lenses fit perfectly in the rubber gasket from the monocular.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now I just have to print off the scope reticle on clear labels and attach.