New DoopyDoos E11 with T-Jays finishing kit

Twnbrother · July 14, 2015

I assembled my power cylinders using the 3/8" steel blanks for the end caps. Lesson learned... do not use STEEL.... wow, even though this was thin I took forever to punch through and cost me a diamond dremel bit...

I gave the cylinders their dark steel under coating. Once everything is dry I will paint black and assemble. The three center cylinder will go on after the painted pieces and receive their paint last. I want to ensure the METALMITE sticker shows through.

jkno · July 14, 2015

One of the nicest doopys builds I've seen in a while! :jc_doublethumbup:

Mark2575 · July 14, 2015

Truly amazing work. Keep it up

Twnbrother · July 15, 2015

I found a cheaper and easier solution to my STEEL end pieces I used on Power Cylinders. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200-3-8-x1-16-Acrylic-Small-Circles-Craft-Disc-Clear-Flat-Plexiglass-Shape-USA-/151727140176?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2353a46d50 These are acrylic 3/8" x 1/16" disc.... easy to cut and you get 100 for 4.99 plus 2.45 shipping. Its a better deal than what I paid for the steel disc due to the difficulty and broken diamond dremel bit. If I do another build I will use these.

Edited July 17, 2015 by Twnbrother

Twnbrother · July 16, 2015

I did a little work on the power cylinder tonight after work. i talked with Tino about what was the right color for the interior of the power cylinder that shows through the slits in the back. He stated that Andy's (Playfulwolfcub) research showed that it was rust colors. I made the standard slits in the rear of the power cylinder, cut a penny to be the "rust" and painted the inside black.

i then glued on the wings and front cylinders with Zap a Gap.

After everything dries I will install the center rods, connect the ends of the power cylinders, route the red wire and give it the final paint and weathering.

Edited July 16, 2015 by Twnbrother

Twnbrother · July 16, 2015

The penny was good and dark when I cut it but after handling it became shinny. I gotta think some more on a rusty piece for this.

Mark2575 · July 16, 2015

The penny should tarnish over time

Twnbrother · July 16, 2015

The penny should tarnish over time

Good point. It should look right over time.

**Bulldog44[TK]** · July 16, 2015

Great work on the cylinders. I love the push button idea for the magazine release. That mod alone is a masterpiece! Wish I had thought of that for mine.

The scope looks spot on as well, nice paint work. Your attention to detail is making this blaster build one for the record books! Keep up the great work.

Twnbrother · July 17, 2015

Thanks for the compliment Brian... I really appreciate it. I am trying to do my best with this piece and incorporate as much as possible from all the other great builds on FISD.

Twnbrother · July 17, 2015

I am slowly but surely finishing up the Power Cylinders. Tonight I painted installed the rear caps and center tubes. I also trimmed down the wings as they looked a little long to me. I started out by covering my metalmite sticker with Tamayia Tape.

I lightly sprayed the paint from above. Afterward I removed the tape and painted the bottom.

I routed the wires and glued the tubes in place. Afterwards I lightly dusted the word METALMITE from a distance with the spray paint.

Next I went ahead and glued in the red wire.

Once the glue dries I will give it the final coat of black and then weather appropriately.

Twnbrother · July 17, 2015

Great work on the cylinders. I love the push button idea for the magazine release. That mod alone is a masterpiece! Wish I had thought of that for mine.

The scope looks spot on as well, nice paint work. Your attention to detail is making this blaster build one for the record books! Keep up the great work.

Brian I just viewed your build.... absolutely amazing. I wish I had read your build before starting mine as I would have incorporated your brilliant ideas. Your bolt is the best I have every seen. Well done.

Thrawn's guard · July 17, 2015

Michael - Your power cylinders look amazing.

Your build thread is definitely one of the go to threads for anyone wanting to carry out a resin blaster build and incorporate a good number of modifications.

Keep up the great work.

Twnbrother · July 17, 2015

Here are some finished shots of the Power Cylinder. Nothing remaining from the DD kit. Without Tino's finishing kit http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-kits-like-doopydoo%E2%80%99s-full-resin-kit-incl-worldwide-shipping-and-paypal/ this would not have been possible. I did some really light weathering. Please tell me your opinions... should I do more?

Lastly my hidden METALMITE.. should I replace with new sticker and less overspray?

**T-Jay[TK]** · July 17, 2015

Very nice, Mike. I would leave it like it is now. Looks great. Love that METALMITE-sticker.

Thrawn's guard · July 17, 2015

Really great work Michael I hope mine look as good when I get around to looking at them.

My only comment and this is just my personal opinion is that I noticed on one of the shots you can see the end of one of the fuses is green. I would cover that with black.

The weathering looks great....there is a temptation to overdo the weathering but I think that you have got it spot on.

I also like the fact that you can make out some of the red showing through the black paint on the textile wires.

Twnbrother · July 18, 2015

Chris thanks for the suggestion about painting the green stuff black... I will take care of that. Thanks again

Twnbrother · July 19, 2015

I was inspired by reading Brian's (Bulldog44) build...http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28778-bulldog44-dd-e-11build/ it was amazing. He got me thinking about the selector switch where he used ear bud connectors. I had these connectors laying around and decided to give it a try.

I cut the ends of each one maintaining the original length of the connection and then removed the plastic coverings. I inserted the female end into the pistol grip (my previous hole was the right size ) and secured with Zap a Gap.

I then drilled the hole for the male end. I ensured I went as far as I could into the selector switch to ensure I still had the full length of the original connection.

It is a tight fit with a very smooth rotating action.

Edited July 19, 2015 by Twnbrother

Twnbrother · July 19, 2015

I was also reading Brandon's (Khazid) pipe build http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30209-phoenix-props-anh-e-11-pipe-build/ and wanted to use his concept for holographic scope reticle. I started by using the same Trooperbay sticker as he did and made a some changes to individualize it.

I have ordered some thin plexiglass to begin the process. I hope my turns out pretty decent.... Brandon set the bar pretty high. :jc_doublethumbup:

Thrawn's guard · July 19, 2015

I'm very interested in how this works out Michael. So far it looks very impressive.

Edited July 20, 2015 by Thrawn's guard

Mark2575 · July 19, 2015

I like the ear buds. Be nice if it would "click" to each position

**welshchris77[TK]** · July 19, 2015

Your doing a great job Michael, i love how your blaster is coming along! :jc_doublethumbup:

Twnbrother · July 20, 2015

Tonight I finished up what I was wanting to do with the magazine button. I made the magazine release move when you pressed the button. I took a piece of left over scope rail aluminum and trimmed to size. I then stamped three zero's on the bottom... next time I would have used the letter O instead. I used my small wood carving tools create the recess for the magazine release.

Next I replaced the red plastic rod inside the the push button mechanism with a finishing nail. I attached the finishing nail through a countersunk hole in the magazine release using Zap a Gap. I also took the washer off the red push rod and put it on the nail with Zap a Gap to keep the spring distance. Just attach the push button to complete the mechanism.