New DoopyDoos E11 with T-Jays finishing kit

[Twnbrother]

This pic is the front scope lens showing the red lens.

 

Edited June 30, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Twnbrother]

I wanted to make the magazine removable so I bought industrial strength magnets at Home Depot.

 

 

I then used my old mistake (where I tried to screw the magazine in place) as a guide for where to place the magnets.  When you drill the hole you have to ensure the magnets will still touch.  I messed up and drilled to deep.  Easy fix I just stacked on another magnet.  Make sure you use Zap a Gap or some other strong super glue to hold the magnets in place

 

 

 

 

It holds together very well....  I really like the look of Gazmosis's magazine

 

Edited June 30, 2015 by Twnbrother

[T-Jay[TK]]

If all goes on like that, this build will result in a really very good blaster! Great ideas, good work and an interesting thread to follow

[Twnbrother]

If all goes on like that, this build will result in a really very good blaster! Great ideas, good work and an interesting thread to follow

 

 

Thanks Tino.  I am wanting this to be as accurate as I can get it....  Building this kit is more fun than I would have thought.  I am addicted to it.

[Twnbrother]

My next project was the butt cap retaining clip (guess that is what its called)    I wanted it to actually move.  I trimmed out the one from the DD kit and made it fit the channel I got from Tino.  I measured the distance to the pin going through the retaining clip and drilled out the hole.  I inserted a metal rod (left over from the counter I disassembled) and a cut down spring from a pen.  Now the retaining clip moves.  I will super glue everything after painting.

 

 

 

 

[Bulldog44[TK]]

Excellent work on the end cap lock! Looks great and cool to see it functional.

I will try to have a look inside one of my scopes tonight for color confirmation. I think you can get some views of the inside of a real scope on one of usaeatt2's threads or Sith Lords. They have some photo documentation of disassembling a real scope. I will try to locate that for you if I can . I do believe it is just brass though.

Keep up the great work. Its nice to see you recording the use of Tino's completion kit. Makes me want to start my next blaster build!

[Twnbrother]

Brian thanks for the kind comments.  I find myself thinking of ways to build this blaster all the time.  If not for all the help from FISD I would not even be close on this blaster.  Thanks for looking into the scope color.

 

Tino's kit is by far the best thing you can get for a DD Blaster build.  His stuff is great and he provides sound advice on the build.  Thanks Tino.

[T-Jay[TK]]

No problem, Mike. Happy whenever I can help Really glad to see you like your set and it's fun to watch this build . Thanks for all the kudos!

[Twnbrother]

I painted the front site post and inserted temporarily for a few quick photos. Please let me know if I got this one right.

 

 

 

 

[Twnbrother]

Yesterday I went to work on the bolt face that shows in the ejector port.  I went ahead and carved out the ejector and tried my hand at the serial number.  

 

 

The ejector was made from the left over resin from the original DD front site post.  The brass rod is the inside barrel of an ink pen.

 

 

I dug out a spot for the serial number with my Dremel and filled with green stuff (saw this trick on Tino's thread).  In this photo the green stuff had not dried so I have not sanded in down flush.

 

 

I used 2mm metal stamps to make the serial number.

 

Edited July 3, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Twnbrother]

This morning I decided to make the magazine catch release button work.  I used a spring (cut to length) from a pen, the metal rod I used to make the front site post a few drill bits.

 

 

I drilled a hole in the magazine button to screw in the rod.  I then drill a matching hole into the magazine well.  The depth of the hole was a little longer than the rod.  I then drilled a hole for the spring ensure I did not go too deep.  I needed the ridge to hold the spring and the deeper hole for the rod.  lastly I took a forstner bit and drilled a flat recess for the magazine button.

 

 

I had to round off some more of the threads because it kept catching.  Once ready to assemble I will glue the spring in the hole, attach the pieces and glue the spring to the magazine button to keep it from falling out.

 

It works....

 

 

 

[Thrawn's guard]

Michael I love the work that you are doing here in particular the working butt cap retaining clip and magazine release button.

 

These are the types of details which really do make a difference.

 

I had a similar idea with regard to adding serial numbers to the ejector port but have been struggling to find small enough metal stamps so it is good to see that they are available.

 

Did you get the channel for the butt cap retaining clip from the completion kit ?

 

The only problem with great work like this is that it keeps giving me new ideas which means my list of items to carry out is forever growing!!!!!

 

Anyway great work and I am looking forward to continuing to read your build thread.

[Twnbrother]

Chris thanks for the kind words of encouragement on this build.

 

I was able to get the metal stamps on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QHXM8M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 for $13.37 and they were delivered in three days.   My numbers didn't come out right after sanding   lesson learned... I made the green stuff to thick.  When you stamp the numbers you do not need much pressure.

 

The aluminium channel does comes in the completion kit from Tino.

[Mark2575]

This is phenomenal! Can't wait to see it painted. Mine is on a three week break due to a business trip.

[Twnbrother]

I did a little green stuff work on all the rivets and the rear sight post hex screws.  This idea came from a post I was reading and I can't remember who's thread....  sorry     You drill out the rivet just a little bit and put in green stuff.  You then take the same drill bit, flip it over and press.  For the hex screw on the rear site you drill it out and then take a hex driver bit to create the look.

 

 

i just gotta do a little sanding and it should look good.

 

 

[Twnbrother]

I am now on round three for the bolt serial numbers....   I learned earlier the letter combination from one of Tino's threads is that the numbers have a height of 2mm and a total amount of 15 characters (including two letters). The setup is as follows:  X00  0  000  000  X  0000 (the X stands for a letter and the 0 means a digit).  This time I measured out two millimeters for each letter space for a total of 40mm.  I then wrote down my serial number combination so I could follow it easily.

 

 

Next I filled in the green stuff just flush with the hole.  I lightly pressed in each digit.

 

 

After reviewing the photo I realized all my 2's were upside down   ohh well  a little more work.  I filled in the 2's with green stuff and restamped.  I will sand smooth after it has set for a day.

 

Edited July 4, 2015 by Twnbrother

[Twnbrother]

I did a little work on the scope and painted it brass.  I cleaned out the ridge detail where the two parts of the scope connect.  On my cast about 1/3 was filled in with resin.

 

 

I also created a small lip ridge on the other end to simulate where the cap is attached.

 

[Twnbrother]

Below is a shot of the spring I made.  The wire came from Tino's kit     I measured the distance the spring would show and divided by the total number of coils I wanted to show.  I marked the distance on a GO PRO selfie stick and wrapped it around.  

 

 

I made it a little long so I could have a little sticking out the back.  This will give some tension when the end cap is put on.

 

Edited July 4, 2015 by Twnbrother

[TK Hoagie[TK]]

What diameter wire is that? .041"?

 

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

[Twnbrother]

The wire came from Tino's finishing kit http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-kits-like-doopydoo%E2%80%99s-full-resin-kit-incl-worldwide-shipping-and-paypal/  I remember reading somewhere that the diameter was 1.8mm (converted that is 0.07").... don't quote me on diameter of the wire as I'm pulling from memory....  

Edited July 4, 2015 by Twnbrother

[T-Jay[TK]]

Woohooo! This looks so - familiar   Can't wait to see this bolt painted...

 

Mike, you are going the extra mile with this build. That completion set is in best hands

 

And yes, the wire is 1.8mm

Edited July 4, 2015 by T-Jay

[Thrawn's guard]

You've carried out Some more great work on your blaster.

 

I particularly like your method for adding the serial number and appreciate the research that you and Tino have done regarding the serial number combination.

 

If I can achieve a similar standard of build to what you are putting together I will be very happy.

Edited July 5, 2015 by Thrawn's guard

[Twnbrother]

This is my third attempt at the serial number....  some of the numbers did not come out very well.  After the paint dries I will be back for the 4th attempt.

 

[Twnbrother]

After initial paint coat of rear sight post I did not like the way the hex screw looked...  So I went to Home Depot and bought one.

 

 

[Twnbrother]

today I started on my most dreaded of projects... the Power Cylinders. The only redeeming thought is if I screw this up I can get a great one from Playfulwolfcub http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/24821-screen-accurate-resin-budget-power-cylinders-for-e11s/. I trimmed the cylinders off of the DD cast by slicing through the "metal" separator. This left each cylinder in two pieces.

 

 

I found a 90 degree piece of metal from Home Depot to make the base. I trimmed it according to the dimension in Playfulwolfcub's research.

 

 

I am going for the B version. Drilled two holes with the thought of pinning the two halves of the cylinders together. I took the aluminum rods provided by T-Jay and outline where I needed to drill.

 

 

The pieces fit.....

 

 

More to come as I gather my thoughts and ideas.

Edited July 6, 2015 by Twnbrother