Kredal[TK] Posted July 19, 2015 Author Report Posted July 19, 2015 My wife helped me out with some shoulder strap fitting today (using blue tape where the shoulder straps should go, so I get an approximate measurement. Also finished the cod snaps and rivet while I had her available ( to hold up the armor while I banged on it with a hammer.) I'm wearing my "sexy pants" but a normal shirt for this... Shouldn't be too much of a difference, when you take in to account the full bib style neck seal. I REALLY like how the chest lines up with the ab on the side in this view. I can tell that the butt plate return edge is going to have to go, for any level of comfort there. The chest rides high on the ab here, but I think that has more to do with the strapping than anything else. Once I load it down with the Aker and iComm, it should come down a little bit. If not, I can replace the elastic loops in the front with shorter ones. (I knew it was too easy!) Side snap is in place, and there's a matching snap plate on the back, but it's still gluing, so I haven't made the strap to go between them yet. That's why the side is closed with tape. There's no strap, tape or otherwise, on the shoulder here, so the front and back plates are falling away. Can't go off this view for any sort of fitment questions. I just noticed, my helmet is watching me try on the armor. (: Not pictured, I also made straps to join the forearms to the biceps, as well as installed snap plates inside the shoulder bells and the outside of the biceps. I'll get straps made for those tomorrow before work, maybe! Now that I have the nominal distance between the back and front at the shoulders, I can make the straps and snaps for them, and work on the plastic cover straps which I still haven't touched yet. Oh, I covered the insides of all of the split rivets with globs of black Sugru to keep the rivets from biting into my undersuit or my skin. Wife's idea, but I'm happy about it! That cod rivet is too close to various things to mess around with! (: Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 20, 2015 Author Report Posted July 20, 2015 Shoulder straps! I used two snap plates side by side on the front shoulders. I know the left shoulder "should" be permanently attached, but I'm not ready for that much commitment just yet. Let's take this slow, ok? Anyway, I laid them out side by side on the bench, made marks on them so I knew which two went together, and which edges were facing, measured the distance between the centers, and used the now-familiar soldering iron to stab through the elastic straps. Oh! Back up! I had one shoulder taped at 2.5 inches, and one taped at 3 inches, so I decided to go for 2.5 inches on both sides. I think that'll work right. So I said "2 inches on the front, 2 inches on the back (glued down) and 2.5 inches in the middle. Good enough." I set the front snaps in 15mm from the end, like I've been doing with all my other elastic straps, and made a line 2 inches in on the elastic, and used that to position the front snaps on the armor, and glued them down. You can almost see the V in pencil I put on the snap plates. Once they had set for about 6 hours with the strap still attached, I was confident enough to remove the strap, and reposition the clamps. Hopefully this move doesn't bite me later with a loose snap plate. I covered the back 1/3 of the strap (up to the 2 inch line) with blue tape, and liberally applied E6000 to the face of it, and stuck it in place on the back shoulders, and used 3 clamps per side to hold them down. Overkill? No idea, I've never glued fabric before. So that's sitting until tomorrow. In the meantime, one of the butt snaps came undone. Like, the backing of the male part slipped free of the snap body. I'm all out of male snaps too, so that'll take another visit to Michaels. One of the screws from the body strapping system came undone too. So, my second repair will be unscrewing each one individually, and applying lock-tite. That'll be a fun night. Here's a random picture of the Sugru blobs over the split rivets. Not much to look at, but why are you looking inside my suit anyways? And here's a milestone I wasn't expecting to hit! I killed a bottle of E-6000! Luckily, I have more (and only 4 more snap plates to glue, inside the thighs, FSM willing.) 1 Quote
Chills[TK] Posted July 20, 2015 Report Posted July 20, 2015 Good progress, Josh. For the connection between the ab and kidney on the right side, you can put a second strap below the first one; just use snap plates on both sides. Your belt may keep this section closed (that's all that was used for the TKs in ANH), but you might want a little extra holding the sides together. I like your idea of two snaps on the shoulder. I've got one, and while there's not weight on it (shoulder bells attach to each other) one of the snaps keeps popping during troops. I might make an adjustment here. Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 20, 2015 Author Report Posted July 20, 2015 I think the single snap plus belt will be enough to hold it together, but I have extra snap plates if I need to add a couple more. (: This morning I cut down the plastic shoulder straps to the bare minimum around the rungs, and glued (super glue!!) little strips of ABS inside the first three rungs on the front to give more surface area to attach to the chest plate. I'll be making that attachment tonight or tomorrow probably. We're back in the workweek, so the build will slow down again. Cause that's how it works! The next major step will be attaching the shoulder bells to the shoulder straps, that'll take another person to get the measurements right, and then from there I'll be able to see how long to make the strap from the bell to the bicep, and if I need to cut anything from the bottom of the bell. (bell bottom, get it?) Then test-fitting thighs, possibly cutting from the top edge, and adding double snap plates to the front of those, then making really long straps to go up to a black duty belt I picked up at the surplus store... And then pictures for basic approval! Get that ball rolling! It sounds like it's currently a pretty quick process, better get it done before everyone gets their Anovos kits. (: I also picked up kevlar helmet pads to put inside the bucket... so I need to do that still. No biggie there, it'll just keep my head from swinging around... That's more of a "nice to have" though, and won't affect my "certification" levels. SOOOO CLOSE! Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Posted July 21, 2015 No pictures because I'm a slacker. Got the plastic shoulder straps gluing to the chest. I put 4.5 ribs onto the front, which allows for about 3 ribs to free-float in the back. I'll glue on the thin elastic bands tonight. Got all of the elastic for the arms cut and normal snaps placed. I still need to sew in the big snaps for the shoulders. Tonight! (: I still need to make the bicep clips, and use them as a guide for where to glue the shoulder bell bands... Guess when I'm planning on doing that? After all that will be thigh fitting and trimming if needed... Not tonight, probably. (: Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 21, 2015 Report Posted July 21, 2015 Hey Josh, looking great sir. I know this is not a deal breaker but since you're going for accuracy I just happen to notice your shoulder to bell snap. Here's a reference pic. You have the male snap sew in instead of the female. Just a FYI Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Posted July 21, 2015 Hey Josh, looking great sir. I know this is not a deal breaker but since you're going for accuracy I just happen to notice your shoulder to bell snap. Here's a reference pic. You have the male snap sew in instead of the female. Just a FYI I looked on Centurion apps for the proper snap placement, and it took me to the bottom of the first page to even find someone who used the big sew-in snaps, and I copied they way they did it.. Most of the suits were done with the standard Dritz snaps holding the shoulder bells on... and Chris's was done with the bells attached to each other across the back. I'm fine with this tiny bit of inaccuracy. (: It looks like I sewed it on differently too... I looped between the holes, where the pictured suit went from each hole to outside and back. Hopefully my way will still hold. (It should, there shouldn't be too much force on that snap.) Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 21, 2015 Report Posted July 21, 2015 I looked on Centurion apps for the proper snap placement, and it took me to the bottom of the first page to even find someone who used the big sew-in snaps, and I copied they way they did it.. Most of the suits were done with the standard Dritz snaps holding the shoulder bells on... and Chris's was done with the bells attached to each other across the back. I'm fine with this tiny bit of inaccuracy. (: It looks like I sewed it on differently too... I looped between the holes, where the pictured suit went from each hole to outside and back. Hopefully my way will still hold. (It should, there shouldn't be too much force on that snap.) Your way will work fine and looks great also, just wanted to give you the info in case you were interested. Keep up the good work. 1 Quote
SeanTX Posted July 21, 2015 Report Posted July 21, 2015 I didn't see anyone else comment but unless I'm unfamiliar with hero builds the TD screws should still be black pan head slotted screws. Not Philips head. Unless those are place holders. Did you ever figure out how to get rid of the "peoples eyebrow" effect when you put the ears on? I had my two helmets looking goo with the brow trim level but once I put the ears on its all tilted to the left like yours. Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Posted July 21, 2015 I didn't see anyone else comment but unless I'm unfamiliar with hero builds the TD screws should still be black pan head slotted screws. Not Philips head. Unless those are place holders. Did you ever figure out how to get rid of the "peoples eyebrow" effect when you put the ears on? I had my two helmets looking goo with the brow trim level but once I put the ears on its all tilted to the left like yours. From the post about the TD: "I had some phillips head wood screws laying around, so I used them. I might get flat heads later, but these will work." I've already picked up the right screws, I'll be putting them in soon. (And also moving the clips so the coverplate of the TD is more angled out, and not facing my back so much. I've got about 3/4 of an inch to play with there, and the original screw holes will be covered by the brackets still. If my helmet is tilted to the left, it's only by maybe a degree. With how oddly shaped the whole thing is, I don't think anyone will even notice that. I was more concerned with getting the "angry" look... any difference in eye height will be negligible, I think. In the meantime, more progress! I made bicep clips: Once the glue dries, I'll reshape the stick it's on to stick out more... Just a little heat inside will do the trick. I made shoulder straps! I cut the strap so there's just a liiiiiiittle bit of play in it without anything attached. With the bicep in place, and my arm in the thing, it should be somewhat taut, keeping everything in line where it needs to be. If not, I can remake it. (: I finished up the snap straps to go from the shoulder bells to the shoulder elastic. Can't try that on until the elastic bands inside the shoulders are dry... Just elastic bands on the back shoulders, and I'll be exactly where I planned to be tonight. Yay! Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Posted July 22, 2015 Invisible Trooper says hi! Had all of my hard armor pieces together in one place for the first time since I got the Big Brown Box. My, how things have changed! Everything is strapped together except for the thighs, and everything is painted except for the various rivets. It's (almost) alive! 1 Quote
Chills[TK] Posted July 22, 2015 Report Posted July 22, 2015 Coming along really nicely, Josh. You're almost there! Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Posted July 22, 2015 As far as painting goes: I know: 6 rivets on the left side Thigh ammo pack rivets Screws on TD (black) I'm not sure: cod rivet? screws on return edge strapping system? Quote
Khazid[TK] Posted July 22, 2015 Report Posted July 22, 2015 (edited) As far as painting goes: I know: 6 rivets on the left side Thigh ammo pack rivets Screws on TD (black) I'm not sure: cod rivet? screws on return edge strapping system? Neither the cod rivet or the screws on the strapping system are painted. What you listed as needing paint is good to go. Make sure to check the three bucket screws as well (gloss white). Edited July 22, 2015 by Khazid Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 22, 2015 Report Posted July 22, 2015 Neither the cod rivet or the screws on the strapping system are painted. What you listed as needing paint is good to go. Make sure to check the three bucket screws as well (gloss white). Correct! The only time you would paint the bracket screws is if they were visible from the outside of the armor. Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Posted July 22, 2015 The heads of at least the chest plate bracket screws are visible... fairly prominently along my ribcage. That's why I ask. (: My bucket screws are already painted, so I'm good there! Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 22, 2015 Report Posted July 22, 2015 (edited) The heads of at least the chest plate bracket screws are visible... fairly prominently along my ribcage. That's why I ask. (: My bucket screws are already painted, so I'm good there! Then yes paint them. Here's a canon shot. Notice how the brackets were mounted on the return edge at one point. Either way they were painted. Edited July 22, 2015 by ukswrath Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Posted July 22, 2015 Cool, I'll paint at least the chest ones then. Maybe not all the back ones, since they're only seen on-edge anyway. We'll see. (: Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 22, 2015 Report Posted July 22, 2015 (edited) Cool, I'll paint at least the chest ones then. Maybe not all the back ones, since they're only seen on-edge anyway. We'll see. (: In the canon pics the back screws appear painted however, not every Centurion passed had them painted so I've asked up for some clarification. Edited July 22, 2015 by ukswrath Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Posted July 22, 2015 In other strapping news, I just dodged a HUGE bullet. I've had a couple of the tiny nuts spin themselves off the screws, so I was going to loctite them all on. I had the genius idea of Googling to see if Loctite is hard to clean off ABS (if I spill some while trying to get it on the tiny little screws, I didn't want to dye my armor blue)... Turns out, it reacts HORRIBLY with ABS, making is super brittle very quickly. Soooo Not gonna do that. Instead, I found a 100-pack of lock nuts on Amazon for $3.65, and got 1-day Prime shipping. Whew. Again: Don't use Loctite anywhere near ABS! Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 22, 2015 Report Posted July 22, 2015 (edited) Alright the official word is NO bracket screw heads have to be painted for Centurion level however, it is highly suggested. Edit: Good call Brandon Edited July 22, 2015 by ukswrath 1 Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Posted July 22, 2015 Thigh straps done! I got impatient and superglued the snap plates in. Don't tell anyone! First, I cut triangles out of the back of the thigh plates to get back full motion (or close) on my knees. I got 2" black elastic, cut it down to about 18 inches, put on my new duty belt, folded the elastic bands over it, joined the ends, and held them on to my thigh armor while holding it in place. Made marks on either side with a pencil, and transferred those marks to the inside by eye. I then punched holes in the elastic with my trusty soldering iron (which I really need to get a new tip for, after all this melting elastic), put in female snaps, attached those to snap plates, marked where they should go on the inside, and then glued them in. Woo! Then I PUT ON EVERYTHING! For the first time, I was wearing the whole kit. I asked my lovely wife to take a few pictures, and she said we should go outside to take pictures. Um, ok. (: And my action shot: My across-the-street neighbor came over while we were out there, and asked where I got it. Told him I made it, and he was blown away! I didn't have the heart to tell him it wasn't screen accurate since the rivets weren't painted yet. (: OK, one issue, dunno if it's the way it's glued on, or my abnormally shaped leg, but the top of the sniper plate digs into my kneecap something fierce. Is there anything I can do about this as is, or should I try to re-glue the knee to be more outward facing? I'm not even sure how to go about that. Anyone have this issue before? Thanks for the follow-up on the screw painting. Since it's highly recommended, I'll do it after I get in the lock nuts and put them on. I had another screw pop out today, so I really need to do that. Horray for Amazon Prime! So excited to have been able to take the pictures today, though! (: Quote
ukswrath[Staff] Posted July 22, 2015 Report Posted July 22, 2015 lol awesome Josh. Always feels good to sport the full armor for the first time doesn't it? Hey a little helpful criticism here, you will need to reduce your bell to shoulder clearance to almost zero so that when the elastic stretches naturally there's not large gaps like there is now. Place your bell next to the shoulder strap elastic, then measure out to your shoulder strap snap. Measure the same distance at the bell connecting strap the sew in the snap, or shorten the length at the other end of the strap. Also, is the ab belt fixed? It seems to be sitting a bit high covering the lower ab button, it needs to sit below the button. Quote
Kredal[TK] Posted July 23, 2015 Author Report Posted July 23, 2015 The shoulder bell is a quick fix. Resewing the snaps can be done tonight. The belt... Geeze, you people are never happy! It's too low, it's too high! I'll see what I can do with it. (: Any idea for the sniper knee? Quote
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