Thrawn's guard Posted July 29, 2015 Report Posted July 29, 2015 Nice work Bill. I look forward to reading your next build thread too. Quote
charlesnarles Posted July 30, 2015 Report Posted July 30, 2015 Good idea making a safety tip, always thinking. I personally can't wait to see your Disney-Doo's build 😎 (I think that's where we landed monicker-wise unless you can beat that)😉 Quote
trooperdrew[TK] Posted July 30, 2015 Report Posted July 30, 2015 Astyanax, First, great job and a great thread. I'm in the process of doing my own rubies right now and I've already been drawing on your posts for inspiration. Quick question for you going all the way back to #1 - Barrel. What attachment did you use on the dremel to cut the PVC pipe for the inner barrel? I was planning on buying the dremel you recommended from Amazon, but I wasn't sure if you used an attachment that came with it (I didn't see anything that could obviously be used for cutting but I also don't know anything about dremels) or if you bought an additional attachment for that purpose (like a metal cutting wheel). Thanks! 1 Quote
Astyanax Posted July 30, 2015 Author Report Posted July 30, 2015 (edited) Hey Drew: The kit I recommend comes with all the tips I used for this project. I was, however, so happy with the dremel that I bought a bunch more later! The kit comes with a few grinding tips (tan-colored stones) and cutting discs. Here's what they look like: The cylindrical one in the center I used to cut the barrel holes in the blaster itself. It's 3/8" in diameter, which matches the Rubie's barrel hole indentations perfectly. The flat-topped tip makes sure I make a nice even cut as I carefully, slowly, evenly push through. The conical one on the left is what I used to cut the main hole in the side of the PVC pipe (although a drill bit could do the job too--PVC is soft). Once the hole was in, I pulled the running dremel sideways toward the end of the pipe, carving the notch as I moved. I could also have used one of the dremel's large cutting discs (rightmost picture, also supplied in the kit) to cut the straight parts of the notch, like a saw. There are also sanding tips for smoothing, which I only used very sparingly for the barrel holes. It's very easy to over-sand! If you happen to be good at lining things up perfectly, a 1/4" or 3/8" hole drilled all the way through the PVC pipe would be fine. I'm not so good, so I needed the notch so that I could slide the PVC pipe forward and backward as needed prior to gluing, to ensure that all the barrel holes were covered completely. Bill Edited July 30, 2015 by Astyanax Quote
Astyanax Posted July 30, 2015 Author Report Posted July 30, 2015 Good idea making a safety tip, always thinking. I personally can't wait to see your Disney-Doo's build (I think that's where we landed monicker-wise unless you can beat that) Thanks very much. My build will be taking a whole heckuva lot of inspiration from yours, but there is no way I'll be doing as much with mine as far as accuracy. Just the existing blaster and the Doopy Hasbro kit. And maybe one or two of CFP214's new Shapeways add-ons. How about "Doofy"? You know, like Goofy? Quote
Astyanax Posted September 2, 2015 Author Report Posted September 2, 2015 Just wall-mounted this blaster using these cool padded guitar hooks I found: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/32787-found-awesome-wall-mount-hooks-for-your-blaster-of-choice/ Bill 3 Quote
kawnr Posted November 19, 2015 Report Posted November 19, 2015 Great build! Makes me want to go back and make some changes to my own! Quote
ComradeDave[TK] Posted January 14, 2016 Report Posted January 14, 2016 I have one of these too and will doing the same thing! Quote
_dockingbay94_ Posted February 1, 2016 Report Posted February 1, 2016 Do you recall the size of the decals you printed? I am converting a Rubie's myself and not sure how big you made the reticle and counter decals (dimensions)? Quote
Astyanax Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Posted February 1, 2016 The reticle image is 1" x 1", and the counter is 0.2" x 1.25". If you happen to have a copy of Photoshop, opening and printing from there will ensure they assume the correct size, as I set proper DPIs for them to print at 1:1 scale. Hope that helps! Bill Quote
kman[TK] Posted February 1, 2016 Report Posted February 1, 2016 This is a fantastic build. I shall definitely be attempting this on my own. I have a HyperFirm on the way, but one can never have too many options! I think the one thing I would change is sanding down the other rails flatter, as well, instead of only the top rail. I have a belt sander so it should go quickly! (just have to be careful not to go TOO quickly, eep!) Quote
gromitsdad[TK] Posted February 4, 2016 Report Posted February 4, 2016 I just ordered an HFX E-11 elite. Cannot wait to get it! Lewis assures that it will be perfect! Quote
gagecrawford Posted May 22, 2016 Report Posted May 22, 2016 did you have a problem with the screws? i have this and i cant get the screws to come out. Quote
Astyanax Posted May 23, 2016 Author Report Posted May 23, 2016 No, I had no problems. I recommend lots of pressure and the larges driver you can fit in there. Quote
Astyanax Posted October 29, 2016 Author Report Posted October 29, 2016 These blasters are back at Wal-Mart! I picked up a couple for $12 each, just so I could tinker guilt-free! Bill 1 Quote
Darth_Dodge[501st] Posted December 17, 2016 Report Posted December 17, 2016 (edited) How many pixels did you set the scope and counter. I cant seem to get the right size. Thanks for the help. Edited December 17, 2016 by Darth_Dodge Quote
Astyanax Posted December 28, 2016 Author Report Posted December 28, 2016 They should be sized correctly if you print them at 100%. The reticle is 1" wide (480 ppi), and the counter is 1/2" wide (404 ppi). Quote
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