How To: Hasbro E-11 > Disney E-11 with Doopy Doo

[drscifi[TK]]

I just picked up the new Disney E-11 and I love it! I'm about a third through my conversion but I've been taking photos of every step.
I've been using my Hasbro E-11 DD for almost a year but have removed most of the DD parts to use on the new Disney E-11.
 

 

 

Also, there are several other great Disney E-11 mod builds popping up here on White Armor. These fans each have their own wonderful take on our favorite blaster. Check them out!

 

Scott - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/30848-howto-mod-the-new-disney-e-11/

David - http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/31272-disneys-new-e-11-mod-build-my-version/

Edited May 20, 2015 by drscifi

[charlesnarles]

The wonders of E6000 at work. Glad to see more of these build threads, good luck!

[drscifi[TK]]

Part 1
Some exploratory disassemble and figuring out what exactly I want to change.


All of the screws on the blaster are the same which makes it very easy to reassemble later.
 

First thing I did is cut off the orange plastic tip. I will eventually cut the entire nose area off to replace it with the DD (Doopy Doos) barrel.
 

This blaster has 3AAA's in the counter as opposed to the 9V in the handle of the old Hasbro E-11. There is also the switch from Blast to Stun.
 

The blaster opens up very easily.
 

There are some loose black parts that come right off without screws.
 

I started on the non electronics side to be sure I didn't damage them.
 

Two screws remove the reflective light channel.
 
 

I cut off the tip as it would be too long with the new barrel i'm adding from the DD kit.
 

You can easily pop out the tiny T-tracks with a hobby knife.
 

I discarded these T-tracks as I'll be using the ones I made for the Hasbro E-11.


I cut and smoothed the front of the barrel for adding the DD piece.
 

The process is repeated on the electronics side. You need to remove one screw on the LED assembly to get to the light channel track.
 

One thing that I'm not a fan of is the loose trigger. It bounces around a little. Need to add a spring or a rubber band to keep the pressure on the button stud but not press it without squeezing the trigger.
 

I popped out the back sight. Still considering using it or cutting the one off of the Hasbro E-11.
 
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Part 2
Moving the Blast/Stun switch.

This is one of my favorite parts of this new blaster But I need to move the switch to the pistol grip.
 

I found that an 11/64th bit will drill out the new hole for the switch perfectly.
 

On the inside I marked where I wanted the switch to go. It will pop out just below the fake collapsed arm rail. Perfect to reach with my thumb.
 

Used a hobby knife to clean up the hole into a rectangle.
 

I ditched the white switch extension. As the blaster will be painted black anyway and the switch will be mounted flush with the outside skin of abs.
 

I couldn't reuse the mounting screws as they would go deeper than the outer shell. I superglued the switch in place.
 

Then replaced the trigger electronics and orange trigger itself. I'll paint this part separately before final re-assembly.
 

You can see the switch is just visible and is easily reached by my thumb.
 

 
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Part 3
Deciding what parts from the DD kit to include.
 

These are the parts I decided to move over to the Disney E-11.
 

Here is the front with the original tip cut off completely.
 

Here is the DD barrel tip on the end. It makes the LED a nice circle when it projects on the wall. It's a little large but I can live with it.
 

My first thought for the ammo box was to just attach the clip part.
 

But i've since seen some people who removed the entire Disney E-11 ammo side and added the DD to it. I think i'll go that route too.
 

The counter will be tricky. Part of me just wants to add the DD counter on top of the built in one but I may need to come up with something from scratch.
 

The scope can be cut right off and the more accurate DD will be installed.
 

The back lower part fits well.
 

The D-Ring covers the speaker hole but it can still be heard well. It adds some more bass to the sound. I may mount the speaker facing forwards instead to channel it out the front.
 

I sliced off my home made T-tracks from the Hasbro to reuse.
 

I may remake these but we will see.
 
 
So that's where I'm at so far. More work tonight.
TK-88800

[Scarlisian[TK]]

Looks nice. I'm getting ready to start the same build, thanks for sharing your progress.

[charlesnarles]

I swear they designed these with pipe build parts in mind. Keep it up

Edited May 19, 2015 by charlesnarles

[drscifi[TK]]

Part 4
The Ammo Clip
 

Marking the cuts for removing the clip part to add the full DD part.
 

Lots of scoring and snapping with a hobby knife.
 

Now that the piece can be held closer I can fine tune the cut. Better to make 10 small cuts than 2 too large cuts.
 

Getting there. Lots of test fitting and trimming now.
 

A perfect fit.
 

It's pretty flush all the way around. It does tilt a little up on the far edge but I'm ok with that.
 

Super glue all the way around and I added a small piece of ABS plastic for extra support inside.
 
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Part 5
More Details & Painting
 

Started cutting away the front of the scope to replace it with the DD piece.
 

Not too bad. Took a bit more of a chunk out than I wanted to. I'll fix that with some black tape after final painting.
 

I'm still thinking of just adding the DD counter on top of the built in one. I like it's look better and it's not super noticeable.
 

Getting ready for painting. Covered up the LED's to prevent any overspray from covering them. 
In hindsight I should have also covered the selector switch from the outside or removed it before painting as now the when in the stun mode the trigger is intermittent.
 

Ready for a coat of Rust-Oleaum Hammered Black. The same I used for my Hasbro E-11.
 

A light coat of black. Be sure to spray sparingly and far enough away to not drip the paint.
 

Looking pretty good. I've also reglued the T-Tracks by this point after the painting. I re-installed the clear light tracks after painting as well.
 

I left the grip plates out during painting. I think they will look better their natural unpainted texture.
 

You can see there was a little bit of overspray inside after painting. Still working on the switch issues for the stun setting.  
 

Dry fitted with screws back in. I got this far before discovering the switch issue. I'm waiting until that is fixed before gluing the few outside elements that would make it hard (impossible) to separate the two halves. But at least the blaster mode works great. Should be good to go for this weekend's troop.
 
More work tomorrow night to finish it up.
TK-88800

[Scarlisian[TK]]

Looking great. Nice work.

[Astyanax]

Nice work, I'm doing something similar.

 

Did you ever make a decision about what to do about the counter?

[drscifi[TK]]

I ended up just glueing the DD one over the existing one. I can always pop it off to replace the batteries if I need to in 3/4 years.

[Astyanax]

Ah, good point. I was afraid to just glue over it because of the batteries, but yeah, they'll last awhile, won't they?

[Scarlisian[TK]]

I just wanted to share what I did with the counter. I glued magnets to a DD counter and the blaster "counter" and it works nicely. I can easily change batteries or toggle between "stun" and "regular" modes

[Astyanax]

Ian, did you recess the magnets at all, or are the counters separated by the thickness of the magnets?

 

Thanks!

[Scarlisian[TK]]

Ian, did you recess the magnets at all, or are the counters separated by the thickness of the magnets?

 

Thanks!

I recessed the magnets so everything sits flush.

[drscifi[TK]]

Yeah. That's one of the reasons I moved the selector switch is it would have been covered by the added counter.